1st round negotiations were a bust

Dealing with dealers in not the most enjoyable. I did all my negotiations by email using the Toyota site to send the specs of what I wanted to all of the local dealers. They all will call you anyway but I always asked them to send their best "OUT THE DOOR PRICE" via email (fees,options,taxes,tags...). Make sure they are specifying a price for the vehicle configured they way you want. It will at least save you some frustration.

Also check out this site 100% Haggle-Free New Car Price Quotes from Local Dealers - TrueCar for pricing information

buzz
 
GrantK said:
Or if they try to sell you by quoting monthly payments, just ask how much is that for the car?
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Dealers just love buyers who shop for a payment -- they can play all sorts of games (increasing length of the loan) to inflate their profits on the deal.

Negotiate the price first. Then negotiate financing. They are two different deals.
 
There is nothing wrong with letting them 'believe' they will make money off you in financing and extended warrantee. Aside comments such as "wow, I wish I didn't have to get a loan but I just don't have that kind of money" and "my uncle always says get the extra warrantee no matter how much it costs".......

Then once you agree on the truck price (which would be lower since they 'believe' they can make up the difference with the extras) shake the man's hand and proclaim "good news, my cousin just paid back the loan I gave him years ago and can now pay cash!" And, "Uncle? that guy is crazy, nobody in the family ever listens to him".
 
GrantK said:
Or if they try to sell you by quoting monthly payments, just ask how much is that for the car? They will probably just switch to quoting the car's price and stop quoting payments.

Also, don't tell them if you live in a lower tax area, they use that to jack up the price 'cause you're saving on taxes.

Bottom line, don't tell the sales or finance vultures anything they don't absolutely need to know, they have a way to use everything against you in negotiations.
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Heres one in Las Vegas, 2010 TE 40000 miles $33,993, Heck I'll even pick you up at the airport if I am off work.

Details of Used 2010 Toyota 4Runner, Las Vegas, NV - Yahoo! Autos
 
What is the VIN number? I will give you the exact invoice price if you would like.

As a dealer myself, finding one that won't sell a Trail Edition for invoice or a couple hundred over isn't worth doing business. They are more expensive than an SR5 and the same sticker as an SR5 w/ Conv. which most buyers would prefer. Believe me, most people aren't like you and I, they want SR5 and leather.
 
M1911 said:
Don't say that.

Don't tell them you are going to pay cash until after you have agreed on a price. They make a pile of money selling people over-priced financing, so the f and i guy will be crying when you tell him you are paying cash.

The salesman will ask you early on whether you will be financing. Just tell him "let's agree on a price first, then we can talk about financing."
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It has never hurt me before. I've always paid invoice or less by saying that because they know the sales process will take 10 minutes out of their day. I show up, get passed on to finance, they fill everything out, I sign in a few places. Hand them the check. I drive away.

It's easy money, and I've bought 2 FJ Trail Teams at $500 below invoice and a 4Runner at a lot more below invoice than that doing things this way.

The thing is that it all depends on if the dealership is interested in volume or not. If they just want to move vehicles they will hop on a deal like mine. If they are more interested in getting me in the door and haggling then I don't want to deal with them anyway. If that's the case, then I find a dealer who is volume oriented and wants to do it my way and then have them trade for the vehicle from another dealership that isn't once we set a price. It hasn't failed me yet. I only deal with the internet guys or fleet managers (which the line has been blurred on in recent years) and I've always come out of the deals happy and never had to once sit through a 3 hour bargaining/lecture session from a dealership or one of their salespeople. I learned my lesson long ago.

Do what works for you. This works for me. Especially at the end of the month and the guy needs a quick sale. He'll jump on a deal like the type I offer. It is all a matter of timing and what the dealership focuses on.

There is a dealership in Nevada that will sell to anybody off the street at $500 over invoice max. That is how they work, just to get things moved in a hurry. If you go through the internet dept. you do even better. They move so much that they win the award where Toyota pays their advertising for the year. So they can afford to essentially sell vehicles below invoice all day everyday and make money. I was talking to a contact I have there on New Year's Eve and they sold 23 cars in an abbreviated day. The friend I have in the internet dept. sold 18 that day. It all is dependent on how the dealership operates. Old school and new school. Sometimes you can have two dealerships owned by the same company that will do things opposite too in order to try to hit a different market. Just shop around. Find a place you're comfortable with and do whatever works for you. This works for me and always has. So I'll keep at it. :)
 
i tried to negotiate with a dealer on 5 different trips, so i emailed a dealer 15 minute away and after spending 15 minutes in the "internet sales" guy's office and telling him i didn't care if my 4runner had tint, floor board, roof rails, blue tooth, BP paint upgrade all i wanted was 4wd and i had an offer at the first for 31300 (really it was 31900). He types in a different number and ask if i can do 31500 for an sr5 with a sticker price over 35000. Yep!

all that after he said he couldn't go any lower than "cost" which was $33,200 or something.

sure, they print out the little sheets but who really believes it or gives a dang? anyhow, good luck!

i know, it's no TE but sales are sales. Shop around :)
 
Sells said:
Good for you I'm not sure exactly what options it had but that price was a little steep for sure. Just for a reference I got my 2011 TE mag grey with 5200 miles on it (demo) for $30,000 out the door and that was with toyota giving an extra $1000 of for being active duty military. Might not be the best but hope it helps.
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No offense bud, but u got ripped off
 
Thats how much i paid for a 11 pearl white sr5 with running baords and 3rd row seats... $31500 before fees!
The problems you guys keep having is your going thrue the thieving sales guys! Call and speak directly to the fleet manager! You will get it under invoice! Maybe not the TE, bought youd still save a couple grand if you eliminate the sales guy!

Imo, if you pay anything over invoice, your GIVING your money away to the sales guy

reds10 said:
i tried to negotiate with a dealer on 5 different trips, so i emailed a dealer 15 minute away and after spending 15 minutes in the "internet sales" guy's office and telling him i didn't care if my 4runner had tint, floor board, roof rails, blue tooth, BP paint upgrade all i wanted was 4wd and i had an offer at the first for 31300 (really it was 31900). He types in a different number and ask if i can do 31500 for an sr5 with a sticker price over 35000. Yep!

all that after he said he couldn't go any lower than "cost" which was $33,200 or something.

sure, they print out the little sheets but who really believes it or gives a dang? anyhow, good luck!

i know, it's no TE but sales are sales. Shop around :)
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It is rather annoying dealing with salespeople, especially those that aren't authorized to make decisions.

When purchasing my 'Runner, I went in with my "secret figures" which I wouldn't show my sales guy. He agreed to my price (surprisingly), beat my pre-approved financing(surprisingly) and just when I thought we were done tried to screw me on my Titan trade. After the third time of him walking in to "talk it over with his Manager", I walked in on them, shook his boss's hand and said- can we go outside for a minute? Took him out, looked at my Titan and said if you can't give me $xxx for my truck I will just go somewhere else. My Titan was cleaner than new, many upgrades and brand new $1100 worth of tires... He agreed, on the spot, and I drove away with my 'Runner (and it's craptastic tires which I'm kicking myself in the arse for not making a deal to get rid of those (breath) damn lane swerving, curve howling, non snow driving mutha's). :lmao:
 
Send an email to EVERY Stealer in your state (and as far as you are willing to travel) with what you want and what you are willing to pay. Also mention, you would be willing to take delivery ASAP. You simply select the closest Stealer that meets your price. You can use any Stealer for service. Sign the deal (for the purchase price) before going through their financing. The Stealer that will give you YOUR price will think they can make up the profit with the financing (or a trade). Make sure they think they will be financing your vehicle. You need to have your own financing before you take delivery (don't let them know prior). Do not use services (Lending tree) that get rates from multiple banks. You can get a better rate by applying to each on your own. The bank will give you a letter of approved financing at a set rate. Let the Stealer match the loan rate you have to make the deal. I love telling them that "If you can not give me the same rate I will simply use the bank check, it’s not a problem".

If you have a trade, negotiate that price before the financing. You know that you will never get what the vehicle is worth on a trade-in. When you finally get to the financing, let them give you their BS rate and then show them the letter from the bank (and have the blank bank check with the letter).

Make sure you read the purchase contract carefully before you sign. Some Stealers like to add on cash cow options like window etching, paint sealants, etc. I had a Stealer try and sneak in window etching ($250 charge) and said all cars sold at their Sealership has this. I had to walk out before they would deduct that charge.

Hope this helps!

Koz
 
Koz said:
If you have a trade, negotiate that price before the financing. You know that you will never get what the vehicle is worth on a trade-in.
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Yes. And negotiate the price of the trade separately from the price of the new car. When they ask if you will be trading a car in, say "first let's agree on a price for the new car."

Dealers love to confuse you by negotiating all three transactions (new car, trade-in, and financing) at the same time. They'll give you a good deal on one and totally screw you on the other two. Dealers will often use the "four-square" method to do this:

Dealerships Rip You Off With The "Four-Square," Here's How To Beat It - The Consumerist
 
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Sputnik said:
No offense bud, but u got ripped off
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$30,000 OTD on a trail with less than 6,000 miles that presumably has never been titled for? That's not getting ripped off where I come from. That's a really really nice deal. If it had been used (meaning titled before, which is another argument entirely...... we all know depreciation happens when a vehicle hits the lot, not when it leaves the lot and is titled, thus rebates, incentives, etc.).

But to get a "new" vehicle in name for 30k is a great price on a trail which sticker at $36,500 with no options, and with the standard stuff usually sticker right around $40k for $30,000 is good, because he's not upside down for a second. He could put it on autotrader, or craigslist tomorrow and get what he paid for it and probably $2000 more tomorrow. If you're right side up the day you leave the dealer, you didn't get ripped off. It's all about being able to get out of a depreciating asset and being none the worse for wear. If you can do that from day 1 until the day you sell the vehicle then you're doing better than the majority of the buyers out there who are typically upside down for 3-4 years (sometimes people are upside down from day 1 until months and months after they actually have the vehicle paid off and continue to have to carry gap insurance and roll bad loans into bad loans and NEVER get caught up. That's DEPRESSING!).
 
BamBam said:
$30,000 OTD on a trail with less than 6,000 miles that presumably has never been titled for? That's not getting ripped off where I come from. That's a really really nice deal. If it had been used (meaning titled before, which is another argument entirely...... we all know depreciation happens when a vehicle hits the lot, not when it leaves the lot and is titled, thus rebates, incentives, etc.).

But to get a "new" vehicle in name for 30k is a great price on a trail which sticker at $36,500 with no options, and with the standard stuff usually sticker right around $40k for $30,000 is good, because he's not upside down for a second. He could put it on autotrader, or craigslist tomorrow and get what he paid for it and probably $2000 more tomorrow. If you're right side up the day you leave the dealer, you didn't get ripped off. It's all about being able to get out of a depreciating asset and being none the worse for wear. If you can do that from day 1 until the day you sell the vehicle then you're doing better than the majority of the buyers out there who are typically upside down for 3-4 years (sometimes people are upside down from day 1 until months and months after they actually have the vehicle paid off and continue to have to carry gap insurance and roll bad loans into bad loans and NEVER get caught up. That's DEPRESSING!).
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I agree with this. I don't see how $30k for a TE can be a "rip off." I will say that I wouldn't personally purchase a dealer loaner, demo model, rental car, etc. Everyone knows how people treat those cars and the amount of different people that has driven them would be enough to turn me away from that particular vehicle. But if you don't mind it then I think it's a pretty good deal. I wasn't happy that my T4R had 24 miles on it when I bought it. My previous new car had 1 mile when I drove it off the lot.
 
Its not rocket science here. All you need to do is ask for their best price to every internet or sales manager. I received a $500 below invoice from doing this and this was with no negotiating or asking for $500 behind invoice. Yes, they showed me the invoice, furthermore they did a dealer trade to get the color and options I wanted. There was not a car at any dealer within 250 miles btw (Had to wait for one with a PDI and that took 4 days to happen). The key is to get a price before you go to the dealer. Once you get a quote via e-mail you can go to a local dealer and see if they will match it otherwise tell them you'll just buy it at the other dealer.

To skip the finance dance submit an app to the internet manager and have him quote you the financing through Toyota Financial Services. Once you go to the dealer the deal is the deal and say no to all the paint protection, GAP ins, maintenance, warranty, security crap and again tell the internet manager that you don't want anything else besides the price and financing. Make sure he tells the finance manager to skip the dance that this is a minimum deal.

No one gets to steal a new car but you can definitely not overpay for the car. Good luck, its your money hold on to it!
 
Very close to having a deal, not as good as I wanted (never is) but good enough to pull the trigger.

That's a good thing 'cause my spare bedroom and living room are starting to fill up with accessories, stereo gear and parts for mods and I haven't even ordered the big stuff (lift, bump, rack, etc).
 
GrantK said:
Very close to having a deal, not as good as I wanted (never is) but good enough to pull the trigger.

That's a good thing 'cause my spare bedroom and living room are starting to fill up with accessories, stereo gear and parts for mods and I haven't even ordered the big stuff (lift, bump, rack, etc).
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Hey GrantK,
Any update on your ngotiations? Did you close the deal yet?
 
It's a 2012 TE w/KDSS in MG, no other options/accessories. Price includes all fees and charges except tax.
 
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