1UZ-FE swap 99 SR5... well here goes nothin!

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inspirational

:thumb3: your work and enthusiasm is amazing... I've had a few 4runners in the past, 96,98,05 and now have the 04 with a V8, loving the torque. Haven't done any mods to it but am biding my time. Also have an 87 turbo regal that is my summer toy (original owner) bigger turbo, flowmaster, shift kit etc, I do think you would take me with Lexi, though... Unfortunately I am garageless so it sits in storage for half the year and I can only dream about working on either one. But dammit when spring comes I have tons of ideas. Thanks to you!!
 
Awesome...I have always loved the T-Types...
I have a good buddy who has a nice GN who's always modding and racing it at Beach Bend raceway. In fact, there are a couple dozen guys who show up there pretty regular who run very fast T-Types. Being the original owner is awesome.
I remember when I was in high school those cars were the ultimate sleepers, and maybe they still are...

GNX we always called them Darth Vader's...
 
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So I started off the morning with a big pile of parts on the ground.

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Then I got going replacing the LCA bushings. Here's the setup for that...As it turns out, the factory bottle jack and some heat, is probably the best tool for the job. Just put a little traction on the bush, then add a little heat. The bush just pops right out.

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Here's a comparison of the old factory bushes and the new Nolathane ones. The factory ones weren't as bad as I thought they would be. Just a little play in Both front lowers. Rears were fine.

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They installed nicely. But because the washers are not attached to the bushing sleeve, they can be a pain to get everything lined up when installing the LCA into the frame.

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On to the UBJs...These uppers self destructed as I was pressing them out.

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Set up for pressing new Total Chaos ones in.

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New ones pressed in...

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New OEM LBJs...

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Installing the goodies, and a new Diff seal. I like to never got those zerk fittings to thread in...Slippery little buggers...

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Now on to the bling...

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Notice this strut is mounted the only way the holes will line up on the top hat...But the white Toytec lettering is facing inward and the remote reservoir fitting is facing rearward and inward...That's not right. So you would think you could just swap them to the other side right...Nope...No amount of cursing or grunting will make those holes line up if the tops are installed backwards...

Now look at the drivers side one, It's set up with the top hat on 180 out. So basically I had to take the top hat off and turn it 180 degrees and use this one for the passenger side. No big deal but ya know...FFS!
I guess what I'm trying to say is that someone at Toytec put the top hat's on backwards. Caused me to get grease in my beautiful hair scratching my head...:confused:

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Anyway, after an hour or so of monkey humpin, I got them corrected and installed properly. Man they sure are purdy...If they perform half as good as they look I'm sure I will be thoroughly pleased.

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I'll tell ya what...Doing this by yourself is challenging to say the least. Do yourself a favor and pay somebody a case of beer and a cheeseburger to come help manhandle stuff with ya! That way, you'll get done faster, before you get so sauced you can't remember where you put that thing, or where stuff goes.
So this is where I'm stopping for the day...Ready to get going again in the morning.

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I'll just leave that axle hanging there overnight so it doesn't leave a big puddle of gear oil in the floor....lolll
 
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Finished up the front for the most part. All that's left is to bleed the brakes and do the final torque checks after putting it back on the ground. The Drivers side went super fast compared to the first side. I suppose I just got in a groove after doing one side already.

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Got a pretty good start on the rear...Would have gotten farther but the Evilbay control arms I got will need some slight modding. The misalignment spacers are about a quarter inch to wide for the mounts so I'll have to work them over with the grinder tomorrow.

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I did manage to get the springs and the brake line in before it got too dark and cold for my old bones...Guess everything is going well considering I'm doing this by myself. So far I've only broken three bolts, Maybe that's a good sign.
 
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Finished up the install of the rear control arms this morning. I'm sure these aren't as nice as some other ones out there, but for the money, I figured I would try them out. As I said earlier, the misalignment spacers had to be massaged to fit properly but I suppose that's ok. The bushing ends fit extremely snugly and the whole process of getting everything in place and lined up for fasteners was a chore. Now that they are in, I'm pleased with them.

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Then after lunch, I got to work with the rear Boss Reservoir shocks.

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Overall, I am extremely happy with the fit and finish on these Toytec Boss Reservoirs. Just a really nice kit that's all thought out for you at about half what a similar King or Icon kit would cost. I'm going to move the truck around the property a little to let everything settle in. Then I will make any adjustments I want to make and then go get the alignment done. I hope these things ride better than the old stockers I had on there. At this point, pretty much everything in the suspension and steering is new so it should ride and drive a ton better.
 
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Thanks... It's a Central Forge brand vise (It's a knockoff of a Wilton multi-purpose)
I got it at Harbor Freight for the new shop.
It's definitely not the quality of the Wilton vises we have at work.
but for what I do at home, it's good enough. It's easy on the wallet too.

As I get older, and prices get higher, I seem to look for deals where I can find them. Some things you just don't skimp on but others I feel I can save some money.
 
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So, I got the brakes bled, got the tires back on and set her back on the ground...

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Then I took her for a quick spin down the road a piece. The ride seems plush going down my Goat trail of a driveway.

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I pulled over here because I had a metallic clunk coming from the front...
Turns out it was my D rings on the bumper...lol...Paranoia much? I took them off and no more clunk...
I will need to dial up another inch of lift in the front. I measure 24" from hub to fender in front and 26.5" in the rear.
I'm fairly certain I was at 25" all four corners before the Toytec's
 
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bushings binding?

from a brisk stop in forward.

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Note the Rake and the position of the control arm
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From a brisk stop in reverse

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Note the rake and the position of the control arm.
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seems like my lower control arm bushings are binding or holding the truck in a compressed or non compressed state. Also seems to be extremely rigid in front.
 
This will be a tough one to diagnose. If the UCA through bolt is not torqued properly this could be a symptom. If the lower control arm bushings (never heard of nolathane) are misaligned or the camber bolts are not torqued this could be a symptom.

Have you laid down to watch your LCAs while someone pushes down on your front end?
Has it been aligned?
What are your center hub > fender measurements?
 
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You are probably going to have to pull the front shock assembly and remove one ball joint connection to diagnose where the binding is in the suspension. :(

-Charlie
 
Thanks... It's a Central Forge brand vise (It's a knockoff of a Wilton multi-purpose)
I got it at Harbor Freight for the new shop.

My dad gave me a Wilton vise when I bough my first house, it disappeared during my divorce. It's the only thing I really miss from that marriage Lol

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I pulled over here because I had a metallic clunk coming from the front...
Turns out it was my D rings on the bumper...lol...Paranoia much? I took them off and no more clunk...

I cut "spacers" from a 3/4" ID coolant hose and wedged them in with the D ring through-bolt, one one each side of the boss on the bumper; it's tight enough to keep the D ring shackles from clunking around

BTW, what fenders are those?
 
Great thread, just read threw it start to finish and there is a ton of great swap info in here. Thanks for taking the time to document. I am kicking around the idea of a UZ swap myself.

Question: if you could do it all again, would you stick to the 1UZ vs. the 2UZ?

I've got a local 92' SC400 that I think I can pick up for less than $500. It's not pretty but it would be great to have the full donor car (and it's local) where if I went 2UZ I would probably be purchasing a motor/trans/wiring on it's own. I do like that the 1UZ is lighter and smaller. Some feedback from you after having the 1UZ now for a few years would be great!

Thanks
 
Great thread, just read threw it start to finish and there is a ton of great swap info in here. Thanks for taking the time to document. I am kicking around the idea of a UZ swap myself.

Question: if you could do it all again, would you stick to the 1UZ vs. the 2UZ?

I've got a local 92' SC400 that I think I can pick up for less than $500. It's not pretty but it would be great to have the full donor car (and it's local) where if I went 2UZ I would probably be purchasing a motor/trans/wiring on it's own. I do like that the 1UZ is lighter and smaller. Some feedback from you after having the 1UZ now for a few years would be great!

Thanks

The 1uz has been great. It's been years of daily driving it now between fairly adventurous off road episodes and I've had zero issues. I think the choice really comes down to availability. you will absolutely love either one. If I had it all to do over again, I wouldn't hesitate. although lately, I really been pondering the idea of swapping a toyota 5.7 into my wife's runner...
 
So you just used the stock trans and swapped out some parts? I am thinking about swapping my 1st gen and it would be much cheaper to get a newer 4runner trans than any of the other options.
 
Unfortunately not a lot. There's still some regulars, but a lot of people have moved in to other vehicles or platforms.

How's the UZ treating you?
 

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