20 years of ownership, time for some restoration/maintenance

[Speedy]

Hard to believe I've had it almost 20 years. Started off with some basic maintenance and will continue with some refurbished parts to get it back as close to new as I can. Next up will be some bumper work to avoid rust, either recondition or replace the bumper plastics, and it needs some valve cover gaskets.

Sometimes it's cheaper to have the dealer do some things if you can find a "good" dealer.

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[Stephen941]

2001

We've had ours since August 2021. 230,600 miles. Did a lot of maintenance over the years to get this far. I was in an accident back in November and the T4R landed on it's side. It took 4 months to repair and it's OK, I bought a new left interior door panel but haven't installed it yet because it's been so hot out. Wish list for interior updates are: new radio, new seat covers, and a steering wheel cover a bit nicer than the typical Walmart or Auto Zone kinds. But we also have a limited budget.

 

[RodrickHeffley]

We've had ours since August 2021. 230,600 miles. Did a lot of maintenance over the years to get this far. I was in an accident back in November and the T4R landed on it's side. It took 4 months to repair and it's OK, I bought a new left interior door panel but haven't installed it yet because it's been so hot out. Wish list for interior updates are: new radio, new seat covers, and a steering wheel cover a bit nicer than the typical Walmart or Auto Zone kinds. But we also have a limited budget.

a little more expensive but much more worth it is flat out replacing the steering wheel or seats. I got a pair of 2nd gen seats that I reupholstered myself onto the 3rd gen frames for 70$ and I got a steering wheel airbag and clock wheel for about 50$, just gotta keep your eyes peeled on FB marketplace.

 

[Speedy]

I got mine when it was a few months old and only had like 10,000 miles on it. Maybe less, hard to remember after 20 years. Whoever had it before had scratched up the leather steering wheel somehow. I put a perforated leather steering wheel cover on it as that was the only thing I knew to do back then. Now that cover is also worn. I found a place that will put new leather on the steering wheel but it's expensive, like $400. I've been trying to find a local place to support a local business but so far no luck. Hard to find a place that does the steering wheel.

Mine's like this: https://amzn.to/3tYDlsP and came from Performance Products but not sure they're in business anymore?

I also looked in to Katzkin leather seat covers. My buddy's Ram came with them from the dealer in some special package and they're nice. I thought I'd do a two tone black center/tan bolsters and it's like $1000 installed last I checked. My only issue is that all the seats/leather are in great shape except the driver seat. It needs leather AND foam, so still noodling on that.

I have bigger fish to fry with the restoration before I get to that stage.

Eventually I'd love to have it painted that Sunburst Orange Toyota color some of the new trucks have, but the paint is in such good shape that's hard to justify.

 

[repo]

So glad you're still rocking the 4runner I remember watching your lift video years ago several times over when I moved up from all the maintenance/reliability things to the fun stuff and did my lift. Occasionally when I'm doing shock/spring stuff I'll think to myself man I wonder if that Speedy guy still drives that 4runner. Congrats on the 20 yrs.

 

[repo]

I put a plain black leather Wheelskins cover on mine that is one of the best things I did to the 4runner. Was $60. I like the extra thickness it adds and looks really good to me. It took about an hour of sewing and a few blisters taking my time to install it properly though. It's held up good except the top protective coat got damaged by window cleaner and eventually wore off but didn't seem to make any difference other than it's a matte sheen now.

One Color Leather Steering Wheel Cover Manufacturer

I got mine when it was a few months old and only had like 10,000 miles on it. Maybe less, hard to remember after 20 years. Whoever had it before had scratched up the leather steering wheel somehow. I put a perforated leather steering wheel cover on it as that was the only thing I knew to do back then. Now that cover is also worn. I found a place that will put new leather on the steering wheel but it's expensive, like $400. I've been trying to find a local place to support a local business but so far no luck. Hard to find a place that does the steering wheel.

Mine's like this: https://amzn.to/3tYDlsP and came from Performance Products but not sure they're in business anymore?

I also looked in to Katzkin leather seat covers. My buddy's Ram came with them from the dealer in some special package and they're nice. I thought I'd do a two tone black center/tan bolsters and it's like $1000 installed last I checked. My only issue is that all the seats/leather are in great shape except the driver seat. It needs leather AND foam, so still noodling on that.

I have bigger fish to fry with the restoration before I get to that stage.

Eventually I'd love to have it painted that Sunburst Orange Toyota color some of the new trucks have, but the paint is in such good shape that's hard to justify.

 

[Speedy]

That looks a lot like mine as well. Agree threading it in place takes some patience. My ONLY complaint is the thickness, I liked the thinner factory wheel feel better. Funny how that seems to be subjective.

 

[Speedy]

Hey [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] I vaguely remember an exchange with you at some point, but honestly not the details. If I was an ahole, all I can say is sorry about that at this point.

I paid $600 for labor to have Toyota do it. I figure that'd come back in resale should I ever decide to sell it vs me (joe blow mechanic) but who knows. It was for sure worth having my weekend though. If I had friends with these and we could wrench together that would influence my decision though.

I work on most stuff myself, but that is on my Hellcat which is highly modified, so I almost have to as a dealership/shop wouldn't really know what to do with it. Doesn't leave much motivation for me to tinker on maintenance stuff on the 4Runner when it's cheap to have it done.

I thought people would be interested in seeing what the parts looked like after 20 years and 150K miles. The dealer didn't recommend changing the pulleys, which surprised me, but glad I had added that. The tensioner pulley was a bit gritty. The original radiator was A OK though but was cheap for peace of mind at $130.

Hope you have fun with youtube. I missed the boat on that one and never took it serious enough for it to be a business. Just some fun with tech and a way to look back through the years like a moving photo album for me.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Looks great. Have often enjoyed reading your posts over the years. The timing belt isn’t too hard but definitely requires certain tools to make the job go easier. The price for TB works replacement now in SC is about $1400, in DC, $2200.

 

[Speedy]

Thanks man, I used to be pretty active over on Yotatech several years ago, but it's kinda died off.

Agree, the timing belt isn't a big deal, especially with a decent tool set. Had I been quoted $2200, $1400, heck even $1000 I'd have just done it, but for $600 plus my parts it became more about time vs expense for me. I've kinda gotten to where I only wanna do fun stuff in the shop these days, like add horse power and stuff like that.

Here was this weekend's project - prepping a Hellcat Redeye supercharger for bigger and better things

 

[Drugolf]

Yep, same here. Bought my 2000 Limited new in AZ. Millennial Silver. Even still have the original window sticker in the glove box.

I retired it to first the wife for about a year and then to the kids. It's made it safely so I am about to start putting money back into it. Figured they are starting to actually appreciate and the new trucks aren't worth an additional $40k as far as I am concerned.

It's all up to date on schedule maintenance work and my mechanic says there isn't anything standing out other than the slightly leaky valve gasket and tired suspension, but it's been that way for years and it barely leaks. no drips. Will get to it eventually.

Today my son and I tore into both front doors to replace the actuator motors (Thanks for the vid Tim!) Being an Arizona car and now Idaho, several of the rod clips are really brittle and snapped so tomorrow I will go get some new ones and finish it up. Then re-program the remotes that stopped working a while back. I am worried the actual lock mech might need work. Shall see. I have all the original key info so while getting the clips I will have a new key cut.

First investment being planned right now is for all new suspension with 2.5" lift, larger wheels and tires. To be followed by the front bumper.

 

[Speedy]

Right on [MENTION=708152]Drugolf[/MENTION] ! How many miles are on it? Mine has the leaking valve covers, but it's very light. Sounds similar to yours. No drips just kinda a little wet looking on the back corners, but it's bugging me so that's probably next up on my list. I'm thinking of having the valve covers powder coated wrinkle red while they're off. Gotta noodle on that one. Mine's supercharged so sorta goes with the performance theme, but I dunno.

I LOVE the suspension I did on mine. It's the TRD Tundra coils and Bilsteins in the front and OME 906 (I think) and Bilsteins in the rear. Rides better than stock and gave me just a tick over 2" of lift. Been on there 10 years I think and no CV problems or anything else and looks great with the 265/75 tires. The install wasn't too bad, I did the front on a Saturday and the rear on Sunday, but impact/air tools are needed in my opinion or it'll be a long day.

What's up with your front bumper? I pulled mine last year and did a rust preventive on the back side. This fall I'm gonna do the same with the rear bumper. I hate that they're chrome, looks so dated, so I may end up painting them a anthracite like color to match my tube steps.

Some of the new models look pretty good, but Toyota's Achilles heal seems to be their unwillingness to do anything in the power/towing department. That's the main reason I've never bought a new one, they don't tow any more than mine, and I don't think make any more power than my supercharged version either. I did shop around for a Dodge Durango SRT, 485HP V8, AWD, etc but Mrs. Speedy said the o'l 4Runner would have to go and I just couldn't do that.

 

[Drugolf]

Hey speedy

228,000 miles

My bumper is generally fine but since it's the original painted silver nice bumper, it's now pretty pitted and chipped. I like the look of the overland bumpers so figured that might be a cool way to go instead of re-painting the existing. Plus may help with the larger size wheels?

For the lift and suspension, I have gotten one bid from a local 4x4 shop that identified Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 1 lift system, JBA Std high Caster Upper control arms, OEM Lower control arms, new ball joints.

 

[Speedy]

Hey speedy

228,000 miles

My bumper is generally fine but since it's the original painted silver nice bumper, it's now pretty pitted and chipped. I like the look of the overland bumpers so figured that might be a cool way to go instead of re-painting the existing. Plus may help with the larger size wheels?

For the lift and suspension, I have gotten one bid from a local 4x4 shop that identified Eibach Pro-Truck Stage 1 lift system, JBA Std high Caster Upper control arms, OEM Lower control arms, new ball joints.

Gotcha, I can see where the paint would be a bit rough after 20+ years. I was thinking maybe powder coat on mine to make it a bit tougher. Be mindful of the weight the overland bumper "might" add. I had an ARB on a Tacoma many years ago and I really wish I hadn't done it after the fact it was just too heavy. Maybe with the right springs up front it'd have been OK but mine were stock.

I've had Eibach suspension parts on other vehicles and didn't have any problems. The biggest thing is to make sure the ride is what you'd want. I had Pro Comp on another Tacoma and it was awful, but it was a 6" lift so totally different ball game. Would jar your fillings out.

I went with the TRD Tundra parts in an effort to keep everything Toyota as best I could, but I'm not sure how easy or costly those parts are to find anymore. I can tell you for sure the ride is amazing though, literally smoother than it was stock.

 

[Romeo1]

Hey Speedy, remember me? It's your old buddy Timmy the Toolman. I'm the guy you gave an incredible amount of shit to in regards to the Supercharger video [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I made. You certainly had some strong opinions about how we should make videos, mainly in regards to the length of them. You pretty much said people wouldn't watch it because it's too long. Even though you are partially right, that the length of our videos does scare some people away, that video has been very popular on our channel. It's one of the top ten videos we've produced. That supercharger video now has 313,000 views over the last 4years. We have gotten tons of praise from that video because it has helped countless people with their supercharger installs.

How's you channel doing Bro? Ours is chugging slowly along. It's not growing as fast as I'd like, but it is what it is. We recently broke 60,000 subscribers and 10,000,000 overall views. Maybe if we added a hot tool time girl wearing Daisy Dukes to our channel our subscriber numbers and views would go up.

Yeah, I know I'm kind of a dick drumming up the past but it seems like a fitting time to bring it up. And, you got to admit, you were a pretty big a-hole towards me in that supercharger thread so you kind of deserve me rubbing it in your face a bit. Remember, I tried to very cordial with you at first but you just kept coming at me talking crap and that's when you got a taste of some of your own medicine back. You see, I've got the potential to be a huge a-hole too, but I usually reserve it for people that deserve it.

Anyway, another popular video series of ours is out 3.4L 5VZ-FE Timing Belt Replacement video. Instead of using the dealership, you could have easily done the work yourself. Hell, you could have watched our videos to help you get it done. I've watched some of your videos so I know you're mechanically inclined, and you could have easily handled this job. I don't agree it was a good call letting the dealership do the work. The best person to work on your rig is YOU, because you have a vested interest in making sure it's done right. Paid guys screw up all the time. I'm surprised you let someone else do it for you.

For those that would like to save money and make sure the job gets done right, here's the two videos we made for this job. We did struggle getting the belt on and learned an easier way you can watch in Part 2. Part 2 also has other very helpful tips in it. I recommend you also read the video description and the comments we pinned (1st comment you will see).

I'm kind of curious how you'll react to my comment Speedy. You might just stay quiet because you realize you deserved this from me by the way you treated me in the past or you'll fire back and try to start another back and worth of insults with me. If you do fire back with an insult, it will go unanswered by me. I'll let you have the last word.


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I’m just here for the show [emoji481]

 

[Speedy]

Next project is to pull the rear bumper and apply some rust primer/preventer behind the rear bumper. Did the front last year. However the plastic trim on the bumpers seems like it's faded and isn't that deep grey color anymore. Lower valance on front looks good enough.

Any fixes for this plastic or just have to buy new? Found the pieces on Amazon for like $200 total.

 

[Bad Luck]

Next project is to pull the rear bumper and apply some rust primer/preventer behind the rear bumper. Did the front last year. However the plastic trim on the bumpers seems like it's faded and isn't that deep grey color anymore. Lower valance on front looks good enough.

Any fixes for this plastic or just have to buy new? Found the pieces on Amazon for like $200 total.

You might try heating the plastic with a heat gun or torch to get the color back. Should be able to find some videos on YouTube if you are curious about it

 

[Speedy]

You might try heating the plastic with a heat gun or torch to get the color back. Should be able to find some videos on YouTube if you are curious about it

I've done that in the past on some interior panel stuff, but I'm not sure I could get it even/consistent enough across an entire bumper cover. I was hoping there was some magic detailer that would bring it back to life.

 

[phattyduck]

I've done that in the past on some interior panel stuff, but I'm not sure I could get it even/consistent enough across an entire bumper cover. I was hoping there was some magic detailer that would bring it back to life.

Any "magic" detailers will all have to be reapplied with some regularity. Heat gun takes some skill, but will last years (though should still have protectant applied with some regularity).

I did adhesion promotor then SEM Trim Black (fender flares and windshield cowl). Looks good, but then you are stuck with painted plastic pieces from then on.

No perfect solution, sadly.

-Charlie

 

[Speedy]

Thanks, I'll try some deep cleaning and some Black Magic I have on hand first, maybe I'll get lucky. If not guess I'm buying some parts.