2000 Limited Factory Alarm Trouble...

HammerTime

New member
My 2000 Limited is giving me serious grief. The problem is that the alarm likes to go off at very inopportune times, particularly in the middle of the night, unbeknownst to me as I am a heavy sleeper, but certainly noted by unfortunate neighbors. Anyway, here is the history of the issue:

About a year ago, the alarm went off in my driveway about 15 minutes after I got home from work. Doors were locked, used my fob to shut it off. Next day at work, it goes off (again, with the doors locked). I shut it off, and 5 minutes later, it did it again).

At this point, I just wanted the stupid thing to quit making noise, so I removed the horn fuse. This stopped the honking. For the last year, it hasn't been an issue. I've noticed it going off here or there (always with the door locked), but it will always shut off after a minute and doesn't reactivate. All it does is make a clicking sound while flashing the lights. No big deal.

Then, last week. I get up to head to work, come out and the lights are flashing, but very dimly. Battery was too depleted to crank, so I got a jump. Obviously, something has been tripping the alarm, and it will trip it multiple times in rapid progression.

Before working on it, I charged my battery to make sure it was a low charge issue. I also read everything I could find on here about it. I do not have an aftermarket alarm system. There is no valet button that I can use to turn it off. My truck has the transponder key and a Toyota fob, and the alarm functions like the standard Toyota alarm.

I know some people say it is located under the driver seat. I don't see anything remotely resembling an alarm under there. Some people say it is under the steering wheel. If it is, I haven't found it. Some people say it is under the glovebox, no luck there.

In diagnosing the problem, I've tested the system by sitting inside, using the fob to lock the doors. Once locked, the security button on the dash goes solid red for 30 seconds, then flashes, which is the point at which the alarm system is active. By manually unlocking a door on the inside, I can make the alarm go off (which is how it should function).

I read that people have had issues with the hood switch. There is a hood switch. I cleaned it. I also sat inside and tested the alarm with the hood open. The alarm will arm itself when the hood is open. I then alarmed the system, and opened the hood. The alarm did not go off, but with the hood open, it would go off if I tried to unlock any of the doors from the inside. So I've ruled out the hood switch, as it doesn't seem to make any difference in the operation of the alarm.

However, I could not get the alarm to arm itself if one of the doors was ajar or unlocked. This is also how the system is designed to work based on my research.

At wits end, I gave up for the day. The following day, I messed around with it again. But this time, when I sat inside of it and tried to get the alarm to activate, it wouldn't activate. Rather than the indicator light turning solid prior to arming the system, it would just continue to flash and would never arm, even though all the doors were shut and locked. I tried this at least 3 or 4 times. Finally in disgust, I gave up for the night.

I left the doors locked and the 4Runner at my parents, who have a nice garage/shop. I took my fob with me, and went home. The next day, the battery was dead, and my parents confirmed that the alarm had been going off consistently before it died. I know it couldn't be anything to do with the fob, because the fob was in my pocket, and I was 10 miles away.

At this point, I'm extremely frustrated because I have no idea what to do. I called a trusted local shop that installs aftermarket systems, and the guy told me that he wouldn't touch it because it is the factory alarm, and told me to take it to the dealership. I hate the thought of taking it to the dealer, as I've heard few good things about them and I'm also a tightwad.

Another idea I had was to get a diagnostic tool and see if there is some sort of code that might alert me to the exact faulty part. The check engine light is not on though (nor are any unusual dash lights), so I'm not sure if this will work. Also of note is that I can easily shut the alarm off using the unlock key on the fob and immediately start and drive around (assuming the flashing lights haven't zapped my battery).

Does anyone have any ideas? I would be fine with getting rid of the alarm entirely if it is possible, but because of the way it seems wired into the ECU, I don't think that is practical. Has anyone done this?

I should also mention that during the 2 years that I've owned it, nothing electronically has been changed. I did run a lightbar directly off the battery, but I doubt that would have any effect on this, and have since removed it. The windshield was replaced at some point before I came to own it too.
 
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They all seem to fail, remove the alarm module (near right hand side of windshield under hood) or have the alarm replaced. Luck. :cowboy:
 
I know some people say it is located under the driver seat. I don't see anything remotely resembling an alarm under there. Some people say it is under the steering wheel. If it is, I haven't found it. Some people say it is under the glovebox, no luck there.
I would be fine with getting rid of the alarm entirely if it is possible, but because of the way it seems wired into the ECU, I don't think that is practical. Has anyone done this?
it is not controlled by your ECM...it is controlled by the "Body ECU" and connected to that the "Back Door ECU".
one is the schematic with test points: the other is location of the ECU's. luck
 

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it is not controlled by your ECM...it is controlled by the "Body ECU" and connected to that the "Back Door ECU".
one is the schematic with test points: the other is location of the ECU's. luck

Thank you very much for those diagrams, I think that's exactly what I needed. I will mess with it tomorrow and report back...I'm sure other people have had/will have this issue in the future.
 
I have found my issue. The following is what I did:

Based on the diagram provided, I opened up the rear liftgate to access the backdoor ECU. Using the wiring diagram, I found the wire for the "back door unlock detection switch". I cut this wire, as I thought that by cutting the wire, the circuit would be broken, essentially "tricking" the system into thinking the back door is unlocked at all times, therefore not arming the alarm when I lock the truck with the fob. However, this did not work, which must mean that the circuit is open when the door is locked, and closed when unlocked.

I went back to the switch on the hood. I removed the latch, and cut the wires off of the switch and wired them together. I then tried lock the doors and activate the alarm. The alarm would not activate, as the circuit is completed, telling the theft deterrent system the hood is open, and preventing it from arming. I wire nutted and taped up the wires, tucked them under the radiator support, put the latch back on, and called it good.

Of course, the theft deterrent alarm is now disabled. However, I live in a low crime area, this vehicle is some 17 plus years old, and I'm usually armed to the teeth, so I'm not overly concerned about theft. Alternatively, if I was certain it was the hood switch that was bad, I could isolate the two wires, which would allow the alarm to act normally, just without the portion that sounds the alarm when the hood is ajar. At this point, I'm fairly certain the problem was a faulty hood switch, making and losing contact every time a gust of wind blew, thus setting off the alarm.

Hope this helps someone in the future. It took me wayyyyy too much time to figure this out.
 
I have found my issue. The following is what I did:

Based on the diagram provided, I opened up the rear liftgate to access the backdoor ECU. Using the wiring diagram, I found the wire for the "back door unlock detection switch". I cut this wire, as I thought that by cutting the wire, the circuit would be broken, essentially "tricking" the system into thinking the back door is unlocked at all times, therefore not arming the alarm when I lock the truck with the fob. However, this did not work, which must mean that the circuit is open when the door is locked, and closed when unlocked.

I went back to the switch on the hood. I removed the latch, and cut the wires off of the switch and wired them together. I then tried lock the doors and activate the alarm. The alarm would not activate, as the circuit is completed, telling the theft deterrent system the hood is open, and preventing it from arming. I wire nutted and taped up the wires, tucked them under the radiator support, put the latch back on, and called it good.

Of course, the theft deterrent alarm is now disabled. However, I live in a low crime area, this vehicle is some 17 plus years old, and I'm usually armed to the teeth, so I'm not overly concerned about theft. Alternatively, if I was certain it was the hood switch that was bad, I could isolate the two wires, which would allow the alarm to act normally, just without the portion that sounds the alarm when the hood is ajar. At this point, I'm fairly certain the problem was a faulty hood switch, making and losing contact every time a gust of wind blew, thus setting off the alarm.

Hope this helps someone in the future. It took me wayyyyy too much time to figure this out.



I looked on my 2000 Limited and there is no hood switch or any wiring at all connected to my latch?
 

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