2000 limited SleepyDad build

I found them in IA at a toyota dealer. it was a decent deal and free shipping... either you can source them from junk yards and hope you get straight ones and blast/coat or buy new ones? they will run you $100-$120 each new. and really that is not bad for new wheels? IMO

Thats not bad price IMO either .... I leaning steel because they hold up well and I want to do a Surf Clone
 
super advanced sand dune flag thing

needed a 10' flag so I was legal for sand dune. still working on the playing card cloth pin on inside of rim mod.

<a href="https://imgur.com/1yV1VuF"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1yV1VuFl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/wrFQBDe"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/wrFQBDel.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/L5t8wS8"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/L5t8wS8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
dear [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] ,

your meticulous attention to detail combined with your cheeky diction brings me much joy.



sincerely,
infamousRNR



p.s. why are you so tired?
 
771 miles

Did a short road trip to check out the dunes over in Michigan

coming from MN I booked passage on the last true coal fired steam driven car ferries still in operation. the SS Badger is a working historical landmark. If your interested it's pretty cool and although the ship has been updated over the years it's still coal fired and runs on a steam engine. it was a great experience and I'm glad I booked passage.

History : S.S Badger

<a href="https://imgur.com/lf4rDOh"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lf4rDOhl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/1UsZIjS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1UsZIjSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and this is the other ship they use for parts to keep the SS Badger running, can you imagine explaining to your wife you needed a parts ship? don't worry babe we can part that other ship out really quick and get rid of it!

<a href="https://imgur.com/PtSV2Gi"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/PtSV2Gil.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


here is a link to the location of silver lake offroad

Google Maps


one special note: the regulations for flags are very specific and I figured I would get nicked for an official dunes flag. In MI your flag must be mounted on the front of the vehicle and in front of the front tires. your flag must be 9"x12" rectangular and must also be 10' off the ground.

the 2 shops of course have quick and easy flag setups. because yea I forgot to go read all the details hidden someplace about the flag rules.

<a href="https://imgur.com/GmSa0ch"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/GmSa0chl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/bTRqnE4"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/bTRqnE4l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/4BqmGJQ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/4BqmGJQl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/V15LzJS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/V15LzJSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

overall it was super fun to drive around and try to get stuck. the sandrails and trophy trucks are pretty cool and make short work of everything. a ton of jeeps were stuck trying to climb the biggest dunes. we tried a couple of times and always got stuck right at the top. meh. still fun.

My Rig ran perfect, rear locker made a huge difference in the sand, the external trans cooler setup kept the trans temps down in the 180's most of the time. the new AC setup kept us nice and cool and the electric fan ran perfect and kept the ECT right in 195-200.

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/45JYF_klw78" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] Did you ever come up with a parking brake solution?

yes

I have been working on it on my other build. it's 2x driver side cables from a mustang then I joined them together up above the drive shaft. once I get totally done with it here in Nov I will do a vid/write up. I have the lift scheduled on Oct 12 and will be doing a frame/body swap.

make no mistake about it... getting a custom e-brake solution to work is a royal pain in the behind. it requires custom fabrication, welding and a lot of mother forking shirt balls talk.

for the life of me I was not able to get the stock cable to do it. I'm sure there is somebody who is more clever than me and maybe you could use the stock cable but I could not figure out a way to use it.

<a href="https://imgur.com/knU7HJ0"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/knU7HJ0l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>
 
This looks great [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] ! When you dipped the rear bumper/gate how did you handle the pivots and all that? I'm looking right now at 4xI bumpers and sliders and would also like to dip them.
 
This looks great [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] ! When you dipped the rear bumper/gate how did you handle the pivots and all that? I'm looking right now at 4xI bumpers and sliders and would also like to dip them.

I dipped the front and rear bumpers.

I powder coated the swing out. the dipper guys said it would not work because the galvanizing would build up on the barrel where the bearings press in and I would have to re-bore it for the bearings/races to fit again.

it has been fine for me this way. the swing out takes less abuse from road salt. the good thing is on the rear bumper where the pin wears is galvanized so it shows wear but no rust has formed at all.

just make sure you drill holes in the tubes. you can't have sealed up area's when you dip. it can warp or even burst the closed areas because of the heat. the galvanizing dip must be able to flow in and out easily.

to be honest as the galvanizing has aged it looks better and better.

I'm not sure about doing sliders because welding galvanized surfaces can be dangerous and give off toxic fumes.

3 years later I'm still very happy with the results and would do it again.
 
I dipped the front and rear bumpers.

I powder coated the swing out. the dipper guys said it would not work because the galvanizing would build up on the barrel where the bearings press in and I would have to re-bore it for the bearings/races to fit again.

it has been fine for me this way. the swing out takes less abuse from road salt. the good thing is on the rear bumper where the pin wears is galvanized so it shows wear but no rust has formed at all.

just make sure you drill holes in the tubes. you can't have sealed up area's when you dip. it can warp or even burst the closed areas because of the heat. the galvanizing dip must be able to flow in and out easily.

to be honest as the galvanizing has aged it looks better and better.

I'm not sure about doing sliders because welding galvanized surfaces can be dangerous and give off toxic fumes.

3 years later I'm still very happy with the results and would do it again.

Awesome thanks! That's great info. I'll ask the local welder about the sliders. Cheers!
 
Awesome thanks! That's great info. I'll ask the local welder about the sliders. Cheers!

One more question (I think) [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] if you have a minute, though it may be a big ask. Any chance you have the brand/color of the powder for the swing out? Though I am sure in person the difference from the galvanizing is clear, I can't hardly see any diff in the photos.

4xI says they can coat it (or of course I can get it done locally). Did you use their coating shop or get it done locally?

Would be great if I could get my sliders dipped too, but the local welder isn't interested in welding it after galvanizing, which I get (may make a few more calls though). Probably end up going rattle can on that with the Rustoleum cold galvanize paint.

Color is Thunder Cloud Gray ('01 code 1D2), so I'm thinking the galvanized might look pretty good on it. Once I hit 15 posts (soon!) I'll tell the story on the new member thread.

Thanks again for the info and the awesome build thread.
 
One more question (I think) [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] if you have a minute, though it may be a big ask. Any chance you have the brand/color of the powder for the swing out? Though I am sure in person the difference from the galvanizing is clear, I can't hardly see any diff in the photos.

4xI says they can coat it (or of course I can get it done locally). Did you use their coating shop or get it done locally?

Would be great if I could get my sliders dipped too, but the local welder isn't interested in welding it after galvanizing, which I get (may make a few more calls though). Probably end up going rattle can on that with the Rustoleum cold galvanize paint.

Color is Thunder Cloud Gray ('01 code 1D2), so I'm thinking the galvanized might look pretty good on it. Once I hit 15 posts (soon!) I'll tell the story on the new member thread.

Thanks again for the info and the awesome build thread.

I had my stock bumper off while I was doing all this so... I just took a piece of it with me to the powder coate guy and matched the color the best I could off the metal samples plates.

I did blast all my parts before I dipped them and before powder coat. surface prep is everything when it comes to adhesion. just make sure everything is as clean as you can get it before you do anything. huge pain but it's worth it.
 
Yo Sleepy Dad, would you say the Tom Woods DS is near OEM quality/strength?

dude! you got to give me an [MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION] otherwise I don't know about the post...

100% happy had no issues with my tom woods, nice shaft. I have beat on it quite a bit and it still functions just fine. no play and it's still tight.
 
[MENTION=168172]sleepydad[/MENTION]

testing... testing..


How many miles on it? I'm about to grease my oem stocker.

about 10K since I replaced it.

I have a 97 with 230K on it and the shaft on that trucks is still fine. The reason I replaced my OEM shaft was because when I lifted the back end 4" I would get a clunk into gear really bad. after replacing the shaft that went away. I think the slip yoke wears and when you lift the back end it makes it a bit worse. if your not going to lift your truck and the OEM shaft is solid, no reason to replace it.

[MENTION=158195]thezentree[/MENTION] also went with Toms shafts... he had a different story but I think he ended up liking it?
 
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about 10K since I replaced it.

I have a 97 with 230K on it and the shaft on that trucks is still fine. The reason I replaced my OEM shaft was because when I lifted the back end 4" I would get a clunk into gear really bad. after replacing the shaft that went away. I think the slip yoke wears and when you lift the back end it makes it a bit worse. if your not going to lift your truck and the OEM shaft is solid, no reason to replace it.

[MENTION=158195]thezentree[/MENTION] also went with Toms shafts... he had a different story but I think he ended up liking it?

Ive lifted 2" up front and 2.5" in the back. Mild, will pick up TW when I need to replace it

Thanks again
 

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