2000 limited SleepyDad build

[weekendclimber]

This is brilliant. I've just gotten into 3d printing and mostly been doing things to organize the garage. Since I got mine broken into though, I'm going to need some more things as the shop wasn't able to find replacement parts. I see it as an opportunity!

 

[sleepydad]

Cam Eliminations

I have had trouble keeping the cams set in place for alignment.

I will start with everything in the neutral position. I already have the solo motor sports front arms that move the wheel 1" forward.

<a href="https://imgur.com/ZTsxTfC"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ZTsxTfCl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I have used the string technique to set the alignment and it works ok but I'm going to try and see if I can setup a jig to make things harder, yea why do the easy thing when you can over-engineer it and make it much harder?

<a href="https://imgur.com/L96dHaK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/L96dHaKl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

so I cut some 1/8" plate on the plasma machine so the idea is to then use some straight edges on either side to just eyeball it for now, eventually I will see if I can setup a complete link between the rear axle assembly as well and get a 4 wheel alignment and adjust using the track bar as well.

I need to run out and pickup some rectangular stock now so I can create a visual reference.
<a href="https://imgur.com/OjsFEGz"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/OjsFEGzl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I also decided I wanted to change the pre-load on my icon coil-overs. so I made a sketchy top thing to be used with the press. it works well enough to do the job, 3/8" stock would be better but I did not have anything on hand.

<a href="https://imgur.com/gPQaz1g"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/gPQaz1gl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Div5Tia"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Div5Tial.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/UtyNltL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/UtyNltLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

just so I remember what I did - I changed the ring from 40mm -> 20mm.

 

[octanejunkie]

I have 3d printed a couple of battery trays... I know I should make a metal one but it seems overkill to me?



with the tools now days it's not hard to scrape dimensions, I'm actually getting pretty good at it. Because I wanted to make nubs that extrude down into the holes in the battery tray area and printing stuff has rules... I decide to do a plug based approach.











and it's not the most beautiful print in the world but... it's ASA and it's pesky stuff to print.











used some acetone to glue the plugs into place, acetone could be used to smooth the print but... meh I have enough chemical in my body for one day.





it fits perfectly and the nubs engage into the slots nice and snuggles.





now I need to fire up the cnc plasma table because it has finally decided to be above freezing. next up battery hold down the way mom used to make them.

Any chance you'd be willing to make one for a 34R battery footprint?

10.75" x 6.875"

 

[sleepydad]

Any chance you'd be willing to make one for a 34R battery footprint?

Sent from my Pixel 4 XL using Tapatalk

this is for a 35R interstate

35R (L x W x H)
230 x 175 x 225 mm

34R (L x W x H)
260 x 173 x 200 mm

and I can only print 250 x 250 x 400 mm max, at first I was like oh yea no problem... wait... bah! I could print it standing on it's side but then all the holes would droop ( even with supports ) defeating the purpose of having the nubs to hold it in place.

 

[sleepydad]

This is brilliant. I've just gotten into 3d printing and mostly been doing things to organize the garage. Since I got mine broken into though, I'm going to need some more things as the shop wasn't able to find replacement parts. I see it as an opportunity!

it's a fun little hobby to drive you crazy, it's hard to make stuff and I totally appreciate how much effort goes into the manufacture of even simple stuff.

I did some snap together hook like things for some garage stuff... like leaf blower that was always annoying me.
<a href="https://imgur.com/u4qOqU6"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/u4qOqU6l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

and I think my fav was this winter did the simple drawer organizer bracket like things. small little parts that hold wooden slats, easy to make, very adjustable and really not hard and cheap. That drawer in the kitchen is now mostly organized. used to drive me nutters.

credit to the guy who thinked it up
Kitchen Drawer Organizer Brackets/Braces by jeremykmac - Thingiverse


<a href="https://imgur.com/Ah58dnW"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Ah58dnWl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[sleepydad]

My wife thinks I'm working on the master bedroom remodel

so if I'm ever going to execute my master plan for the rear of this truck... a dream that is now going on 3 years. I'm not going to even keep track no more because I'm so slow.

I need to outboard the rear shocks... so yes at full stuff your going to need wheel spacers to pull it off, confirmed. I was going to get longer shocks but I think for now I'm going to stick with my stock icons because I like them and they are still fine.

<a href="https://imgur.com/0Rkeiee"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/0Rkeieel.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

first proto-type of left over sheet metal was not great but proto-types are about failing so hey success!
<a href="https://imgur.com/2UBtwdM"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/2UBtwdMl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I need to make some slight adjustments in angles and size but I think this is going to make me happy.
<a href="https://imgur.com/nawtp8E"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/nawtp8El.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

I have a lot of respect for people who do commercial fabrication after doing this kind of work. If I did it more often I'm sure I would be able to do much more fluid designs, but for now angular works for the setup and tools I own.

I need to add some extra flanges and maybe a couple of gussets up top I think but this is really a copy of the 4th gen shock mounts.
<a href="https://imgur.com/kSfT7Dq"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/kSfT7Dql.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[phattyduck]

Make sure to check clearance at full articulation too (wheel top angles in more), not just full stuff.

I think the ones that have done outboard shocks without spacers have notched the frame a bit to push the shock inward a bit.

Any thoughts on moving the lower shock mount up (and upper shock mount up too) to allow more clearance below the axle?

-Charlie

 

[sleepydad]

Make sure to check clearance at full articulation too (wheel top angles in more), not just full stuff.

I think the ones that have done outboard shocks without spacers have notched the frame a bit to push the shock inward a bit.

Any thoughts on moving the lower shock mount up (and upper shock mount up too) to allow more clearance below the axle?

-Charlie

yes sir, I will pop the springs out here shortly and move things up and down and even drive up my RTI ramp just to make sure things clear both up and down. I know always a chance when you take a hard hit to find things went a lot farther than you imagined they could.

I did think about moving things up but then I would have to fab a lower mount as well. just with all the stuff going on in my life I wish I had more time to spend on it. sucks.

 

[sleepydad]

after 4 versions... finally got one I liked

cut it out of 3.33 mm or like 10 gauge? stupid metal thickness stuff, but slightly thicker than 1/8". I think that should be strong enough I hope.

Was a bit of a process to figure out the correct order... I'm not great at bending, but it almost turned out like the 3d model. Now I just need to clean off the mill scale and weld it up and grind it down to hide my bad welding skills.

oh yea and stick it onto the frame... meh details.

<a href="https://imgur.com/LMHutZZ"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/LMHutZZl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/juh2r3C"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/juh2r3Cl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/tIPs1Zl"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/tIPs1Zll.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[sleepydad]

Outboard Rear shock mounts

Here is the finals on the overall in STL format

shock mount V4 v5.stl - Google Drive

This is the flat pattern with the slots, for those of us who don't have 2 million dollar press robots
shock mount V4 flat pattern v5.stl - Google Drive

This is the flat pattern without the slots, for those of use who do have 2 million dollar bending robots
Flat Pattern shock mount no slots V5.dxf - Google Drive

and this is the ring to help center the bushings
Bushing Ring v5.stl - Google Drive

I did quite a bit of flex testing and nothing caused any trouble. Important to know I have the front range off road full floater so that add's .75" onto each side, then I used 1.25 wheel spacers to get a full +2" of wheel mounting clearance. I would not want to go any closer, I have enough clearance to be safe. especially once you air down and bend stuff it still might get a rub.

<a href="https://imgur.com/lB0tmJ3"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/lB0tmJ3l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/qRnIss9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/qRnIss9l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/1infDdb"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/1infDdbl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/BmxHe5Z"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/BmxHe5Zl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

Now back to the gas tank relocation part and get it working.

 

[TW44LR]

Great work per usual man!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sleepydad]

I'm about to make a huge mistake

Ok so long long time ago some drunk internet shopping caused me to purchase some rear control arms off a mid 90's land cruiser prado from Japan. don't know why but I have always been curious about rear radius arms.

so I figured to give a try, what the hell right? why not rekt a perfectly good rear link setup?

first thing was to figure out all the critical dimensions. axle tube is 81 mm OD, the bushings 185.5 on center. need to leave a bit for clearances so...

<a href="https://imgur.com/thlWxLd"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/thlWxLdl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

looks good right, sure. so it turns out the front bushing on the prado arm is the same OD as an 80's series front arm bushing. cool. so yea the bushing does stick out a bit from the arms but it's only a tiny bit. This also means I can maybe use a front arm bracket off an 80's series. got some of those.

<a href="https://imgur.com/ixjYMaO"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ixjYMaOl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

even though the bush is a tiny bit too wide... it's pretty good really.

<a href="https://imgur.com/8HHZpzL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/8HHZpzLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

after scraping the internet for each and every picture of the rear end axle assembly mounts I came up with this.

<a href="https://imgur.com/ncowqTB"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/ncowqTBl.png" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

did a minimal model just to test the setup in dimensions and it fits like a glove, a radius glove.

<a href="https://imgur.com/65ddrz8"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/65ddrz8l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

what's more I think the sway bar will clear without any mods. I think the main challenge will be getting the links flat because the brackets are meant for the front, but that is not even close to stopping me. And yes this is not an improvement in ground clearance, I know. don't care. since I'm probably on my way to a 4link anyways here eventually.

 

[sleepydad]

yes another side quest

I wanted a way to have the truck sit at ride height without the wheels before I got cutting off the rear axle. so hub stand to the rescue?

picked up some 3/16" A36 sheet and cut one out, let it sit overnight in vinegar and then blasted it. ready for welding... and the first couple of tacks were terrible... DOH out of gas... I will put up the STL's just in case anybody else is interested in this one. keep in mind it's not tested yet. I will post an update when I get them mounted.

<a href="https://imgur.com/c2GODt7"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/c2GODt7l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Rqvw3Ta"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Rqvw3Tal.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>


base xy
Hub Stand Base.dxf - Google Drive

Body XY
Hub Stand Upright.dxf - Google Drive

Support XY
Hub Stand Support.dxf - Google Drive

full hub stand
Hub Stand.stl - Google Drive

here is the idea in action

and here is also something of interest... hope I can use this to set camber/caster and maybe even toe? we shall see.
<a href="https://imgur.com/XjaPegS"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/XjaPegSl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[Bad Luck]

I was wondering what OME coils people put for post-restyling 5th Gen. 2014?
Im thinking of getting 2016 Limited, and having 4Runner - lift and good tires are the must to have.

Heard that 2884 being too soft and little lift, so some recommend going for 2885 for non-bumper application with 90010 struts. 2889 offered for the rear with 60080 shocks.
I believe 2889 are the same as 895s for the 4th Gen.

Anyone can share his experience and pictures?

I’m wondering why you are asking that in the 3rd gen section (1996-2002) let alone a build thread for a 2000 4Runner. You have a 5th gen so maybe try looking in the 5th gen section for your 5th gen question about 5th gen products.

 

[sleepydad]

new metal tires

<a href="https://imgur.com/RFDJzpK"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/RFDJzpKl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<iframe width="800" height="600" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Zpk-N4-WafM" title="TRAILING ARM 3rd gen 4runner" frameborder="0" allow="accelerometer; autoplay; clipboard-write; encrypted-media; gyroscope; picture-in-picture" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[sleepydad]

hot stuff

I did some thermal testing and I was convinced a wrap or heat shield was in order. the Exhaust after about 30 mins of driving was around 300 deg and the floor of the cargo area was 170-180 deg and that is too much IMO. Since a gas tank is going to be sitting pretty close to this pipe I decided better do it.

<a href="https://imgur.com/XYmnw8b"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/XYmnw8bl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

<a href="https://imgur.com/Fv8whVL"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/Fv8whVLl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

This kit seemed sexy as hell and has like volcano rocks in it so that is an added bonus. There were no eagles or guns on the package so maybe I would take off 1 star from the review based on that.

<a href="https://imgur.com/YliWcp9"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/YliWcp9l.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

after about an hour on the free style grinding jig I got all the glob like welds smoothed out. I really like this setup it directs the dust away from you, keeps you cool and most importantly keeps the mosquitoes at bay as well. triple win.

<a href="https://imgur.com/cYWmBZI"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/cYWmBZIl.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

it does not look like the marketing pictures but it will do, I knew there was a reason I was not a fan of exhaust wraps and this effort confirmed they are a SOB!
<a href="https://imgur.com/5GJqAlu"><img src="https://i.imgur.com/5GJqAlul.jpg" title="source: imgur.com" /></a>

 

[Bad Luck]

filming on this vid did not go so smooth but... maybe this will give people some ideas? disclaimer about my setup at this point in time: I don't have my AC hooked up right now... need new compressor. I don't expect this setup will have any trouble with the AC I just need to fix it... AC is such a pain.
[MENTION=198376]4Runner4Leon[/MENTION] added a fused contact in the stock fuse box. super easy really.

champion CC1998 aluminum radiator

Derale Performance 16842 Gray/Black High Output Dual Radiator Fan

auto-cool-50 now replaced with auto-cool-55 but... very similar.
AUTO COOL 55 Pulse width modulated fan controller | autocoolguy

Deutsch DTP connectors - these are cool but I wish the stupid crimping tool was not so expensive. I would use them more but that part stops me every time. I have seen cheap knock off's but not sure if the frustration is worth the cheap ones?

DTP04-4P-E004 - DTP Series - 4 Pin Receptacle Black
WP-4P - DTP Series - Wedgelock for a 4 Pin Receptacle
0460-204-12141 - Size 12 Solid Pin - 12-14 AWG - Nickel Plated
DTP06-4S-E004 - DTP Series - 4 Socket Plug Black
WP-4S - DTP Series - Wedgelock for a 4 Socket Plug
0462-203-12141 - Size 12 Solid Socket - 12-14 AWG - Nickel Plated
1011-026-0205 - Mounting Clip - Fits 2, 3, 4, 6, 12 Cavity
DT04-2P - DT Series - 2 Pin Receptacle
W2P - DT Series - Wedgelock for a 2 Pin Receptacle
0460-202-16141 - Size 16 Solid Pin - 16-18-20 AWG - Nickel Plated
DT06-2S - DT Series - 2 Socket Plug
W2S - DT Series - Wedgelock for a 2 Socket Plug
0462-201-16141 - Size 16 Solid Socket - 16-18-20 AWG - Nickel Plated
1011-026-0205 - Mounting Clip - Fits 2, 3, 4, 6, 12 Cavity

I'm looking into doing an electric fan conversion and came across this. I skimmed over the rest of your build thread, but didn't see any update regarding your electric fan conversion, but I may have missed it. (If I missed it I'm sorry!)

Are you still using it? Any problems or changes/modifications you've had to make? About how many miles do you have with this setup? Any changes you would make?

 

[sleepydad]

I'm looking into doing an electric fan conversion and came across this. I skimmed over the rest of your build thread, but didn't see any update regarding your electric fan conversion, but I may have missed it. (If I missed it I'm sorry!)

Are you still using it? Any problems or changes/modifications you've had to make? About how many miles do you have with this setup? Any changes you would make?

15K miles on the e-fan setup, no problems whatsoever. been really solid and works just like it should. Even offroad or in the dunes it keeps things right in the spec temp range.

Now days having a plasma table I would do my own fan shroud for sure but beyond that I'm happy with the Spal fans and controller. I would also consider using one large fan, but again if your going to buy a premade setup then your going to be limited in that regard.

 

[Bad Luck]

15K miles on the e-fan setup, no problems whatsoever. been really solid and works just like it should. Even offroad or in the dunes it keeps things right in the spec temp range.

Now days having a plasma table I would do my own fan shroud for sure but beyond that I'm happy with the Spal fans and controller. I would also consider using one large fan, but again if your going to buy a premade setup then your going to be limited in that regard.

Thank you! I don't have the tools or ability to make my own shrouding. Griffin radiators will make anyone a custom fan shroud, but it's ridiculously expensive compared to buying the Derale even if it doesn't cover the entire radiator.

I forgot to ask if you've wired in the ac signal to the controller since initial install? If you did where/how were you getting a signal? I think using a relay on the ac compressor clutch signal wire would work.

 

[sleepydad]

Thank you! I don't have the tools or ability to make my own shrouding. Griffin radiators will make anyone a custom fan shroud, but it's ridiculously expensive compared to buying the Derale even if it doesn't cover the entire radiator.

I forgot to ask if you've wired in the ac signal to the controller since initial install? If you did where/how were you getting a signal? I think using a relay on the ac compressor clutch signal wire would work.

the Derale is as close as I was able to find coverage wise.

and no I never did wire in AC and that has not been an issue. I was planning on doing it but then I just forgot about it and it really did not seem to need it so... why solve a problem that does not exist. I know it would probably be more efficient with the AC wired in. I also live in MN so AC is not a huge deal for us here, still use it but it's not like living in death valley where it's 114 F right now.