2000 LTD recent starting issues

[Trailblazer]

OK all-
I hope I'm in the 3rd gen forum, but with new layout I can't tell. I also can't get anything out of the search the way things are at the moment. No pictures anywhere - just text. It looks like others are having same issue, so I hold out some hope for a fix.

My issue is as follows:
Twice over the past three days, I've gone out to my truck to start it up and get nothing. I turn the ignition key and get some dash lights, but nothing else. The starter isn't cranking and I don't hear the clicking of a solenoid. Just nothing. After about ten times trying, the starter and engine crank over like nothing is wrong. Once cranked, it runs fine. This isn't a daily driver. It gets say one short trip somewhere a week.

The only thing I notice is the voltage reading on my scan gauge 2 is topping out at 13.7. It dips down as low as 13.5. This is with nothing on. No radio. DRLs disconnected. Just a single window all the way down. I've owned the truck for about two years and it's been flawless. The battery came with it, so I don't know its age.

I'm pretty good with engine/drivetrain/suspension issues, but auto electric has always baffled me. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

[JayRolla]

So sounds like alt and battery is working if getting 13.5-14v from alt when cranking. I would look into loose and or corroded starter connections. A lot of times when cranking if you have someone tap the starter with a hammer, or rod or something it will start right up and you know you have a bad or corroded starter.

 

[Trailblazer]

Thanks! Will try to check starter when I'm home during daylight hours.

Wanted to make sure having less than 14.2 charge while running, didn't mean something was wrong with alt, belt, etc.

 

[Trailblazer]

Update-
Still having the starting issue-and it's happening at every start up now. Turn the key and get nothing but lights. Battery shows a low 11.5 on scan gage, but quickly gets to 13.5+ after start.

I looked at the wires and don't see any corrosion and connections are tight.

After taking two to three times to start up on Saturday afternoon, I threw my first code in two years of owning the truck. P0171 or lean bank 1.
Research here says most likely a dirty MAF-correct?
This wouldn't have anything to do with the non-starting issue would it?

Final thing that happened yesterday. Took two times to start. Put it in drive, hit the gas-nothing. Truck didn't even try to move. Checked the ebrake and selector to verify they were off and in position. Dropped it into first gear and it took off like normal. Put back in drive and it felt like it was trying to move in 2nd or 3rd gear-very sluggish on flat ground. Put it in first again and pulled out of driveway with no problem or lag. Drove 1/10 of a mile, put it into Drive and it ran perfectly again.

Yes. I've bypassed radiator totally with inline filter and trans cooler, so no pink milkshake potential.


Are all of these tied together, or do I have some separate issues to address? I'm thinking the original problem is electric, but I don't see the trans being disrupted by electrical problem. After each no start, I move selector to Neutral and give it a try. It's about 50/50 on starting when I move it down.
Maybe trans linkage is slightly out of whack and not quite getting trans in park to allow a start?

Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks!

 

[jgue467]

Have you considered the notorious starter contact issue some runners have? http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/63228-another-starter-contacts-removal-thread.html

I think the starting and p0171 aren't related. Looking at the FSM the possibilities for a 171 are numerous -lean condition. In FSM order, the PCV valve/hose s/b checked. Then the air induction system is next then injectors, mass air flow, spark/ignition, fuel pressure, exhaust leak, AF sensor and finally and lets hope not the ECM. The FSM will tell you specifics to test for. FSM is here: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/69744-3rd-gen-faq-tutorials-documentation-reference.html

Let us know what you find next. :cowboy:

 

[LittleCaesar]

Check the battery cables as well as the starter wire. Make sure they are in good shape. You should see about 14.1 to 14.2 at start up; the voltage regulator in the alternator could be on its way out. Get the battery and the alternator tested at an auto parts store.

While at the auto parts store pick up some MAF cleaner by CNC, clean the MAF (not the little red bulb but the filament down inside the tube) and see what happens. If the O2/ AF sensor is original, a faulty one may be the source of your PO171.

 

[USMC0351]

The starting problem sounds just like what mine did in the past, and it was the starter contacts. Even with no corrosion, bad wires, or loose connections... you can't tell the condition of the contacts without pulling the starter and then the contacts/plunger. I bought the replacements for like $15 on Amazon, and it took me roughly 4 hours to do (I'm sure it can be done much faster), but it was by far better than what the dealership said... replace the entire starter.

Just an observation, I have no idea on the code you're showing, though

 

[s20004runner]

sounds similar to what happened to me over the weekend. I just got a new battery cause it was almost 4yrs old and that fixed it for now, but getting new starter contacts will be on my to do list. I heard it's a PIA to work w/ the starter so not looking forward to it at all.