2000 SR5 Auto Swap to 2000 SR5 Manual

Yes, the clutch switch at the bottom of the clutch is for the starting circuit. the one at the top is for the cruise control. In the auto (all of this is in a 97 I am assuming the 2000 is the same) the starting circuit runs to the park /neutral switch. Wether you put in the 5speed engine harness or not you will still have run a wire from where the starting circuit went to the park/neutral switch over to where the clutch is since there is nothing there in your 4runner. It is a simple ground wire, meaning all the switch does is complete the ground so that the circuit is active. You can ground that starting circuit wire anywhere on the body and your 4runner will start whenever you turn the key
 
Since the 2000 M/T ECU has the same pin connectors as the A/T ECU, I'd say it's easier to keep your harness and re-wire your park/neutral switch wires. The wiring is as follows:

i-wZfmpbM-M.jpg


I'm not sure what year the diagram is for, the pin positions and wire colors change every year so if you have an EWD just route the appropriate wires as shown. That's what I did.

Yes very easy, that’s what I did on mine with the exception of the clutch depress switch.
 
Yes, the clutch switch at the bottom of the clutch is for the starting circuit. the one at the top is for the cruise control. In the auto (all of this is in a 97 I am assuming the 2000 is the same) the starting circuit runs to the park /neutral switch. Wether you put in the 5speed engine harness or not you will still have run a wire from where the starting circuit went to the park/neutral switch over to where the clutch is since there is nothing there in your 4runner. It is a simple ground wire, meaning all the switch does is complete the ground so that the circuit is active. You can ground that starting circuit wire anywhere on the body and your 4runner will start whenever you turn the key

Lol I wish I understood any of this. I get the clutch stuff but not the additional information. Is there any writeups out there that go more into depth with this?
 
Lol I wish I understood any of this. I get the clutch stuff but not the additional information. Is there any writeups out there that go more into depth with this?

I think what he’s saying is there is a wire that needs to be grounded to complete the starting circuit in order for the vehicle to start, currently that wire is in your neutral safety switch wiring that goes to your auto trans, so the wire is only grounded in park or neutral, which is why you can’t start your vehicle in drive.

If you keep the auto harness, you will need to get that wire and run it to your clutch depress switch, and then another wire from the switch to a ground point, or you could just directly ground the wire and bypass the switch, allowing the vehicle to start at any time without needing to depress the clutch.

If you do end up swapping harnesses, that same wire will be found in a plug behind the glove box next to the ecu, it should be the white plug that the engine harness connects to
 
do you have any pictures of your wiring?

I don’t, I had my mechanic do it, but I know they jumpered it right at the transmission connector by pushing the pins and soldering.

The cable was tied to the frame with cable ties.

I had no choice as I have a 2002, there is not a manual harness to use...

I like not having the clutch part of the starting circuit so I can start the vehicle without getting in it.
 
I think what he’s saying is there is a wire that needs to be grounded to complete the starting circuit in order for the vehicle to start, currently that wire is in your neutral safety switch wiring that goes to your auto trans, so the wire is only grounded in park or neutral, which is why you can’t start your vehicle in drive.

If you keep the auto harness, you will need to get that wire and run it to your clutch depress switch, and then another wire from the switch to a ground point, or you could just directly ground the wire and bypass the switch, allowing the vehicle to start at any time without needing to depress the clutch.

If you do end up swapping harnesses, that same wire will be found in a plug behind the glove box next to the ecu, it should be the white plug that the engine harness connects to

Okay, this is a HUGE help! So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run? At some point I want to wire everything in factory, but if this will get me going before the 4th of July then im an extremely happy camper.

EDIT: Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?
 
Okay, this is a HUGE help! So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run? At some point I want to wire everything in factory, but if this will get me going before the 4th of July then im an extremely happy camper.

EDIT: Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?

Yes the manual ECM is 100% compatible with the auto harness. In my case I had to use a 2003-2004 Manual 4x4 ECM for my truck. Again there were no 2001-2002 manual ECM’s.

The function of the auto trans connector is no longer needed. You can take it apart or cut wires off the back and splice them at the cable end or up closer to the ECM if you want it to be more weather proof. They sell harness kits for modifying the wiring outside the ECM. That may be the cleanest....?

Yes just wire per that drawing. That’s what I used to figure it out.

Actually you need to jumper 6 to 9 and 7 to 3. You need to run 7 to 3 through the clutch release switch to have cruise.
 
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So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run?

...

Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?

Your auto harness is compatible with your manual ECU.

If you only want to get your 4Runner driving, all you need to do is connect pins 5 & 6 together from your auto park/neutral connector.

i-rXsN26M-L.jpg


The CORRECT way to do this is to run these wires to your clutch depress switch (plus wire the clutch release switch for cruise control, clutch start cancel switch, and reverse lights), but if you just want to start and run, all you need to do is cut these two wires before the park/neutral switch and connect them together, easy as that.

Note: these pin connector numbers are straight from my Toyota EWD book and do not match the diagram I posted earlier (I did not make that diagram, I copied it from another thread).
 
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Okay, this is a HUGE help! So let me get this straight, if my manual ECU really is compatible with the auto harness as stated previously in this thread, then theoretically this is the only wire i'd need to run in order to get the vehicle to start and run? At some point I want to wire everything in factory, but if this will get me going before the 4th of July then im an extremely happy camper.

EDIT: Were there specific pins you put on the end of your wires?

You can make it even easier if you just want to get it running for a test drive and take the neutral safety switch off of your automatic and plug it into the harness, then just turn the rotating piece all the way to one side like it would be if it was in park, that’s how I did it with mine before doing all the wiring

I didn’t use any specific pins because I had the pigtail connectors from all the switches and just spliced the wires into them
 
Yes the manual ECM is 100% compatible with the auto harness. In my case I had to use a 2003-2004 Manual 4x4 ECM for my truck. Again there were no 2001-2002 manual ECM’s.

The function of the auto trans connector is no longer needed. You can take it apart or cut wires off the back and splice them at the cable end or up closer to the ECM if you want it to be more weather proof. They sell harness kits for modifying the wiring outside the ECM. That may be the cleanest....?

Yes just wire per that drawing. That’s what I used to figure it out.

Actually you need to jumper 6 to 9 and 7 to 3. You need to run 7 to 3 through the clutch release switch to have cruise.

I see, once again I was taking things to literal, it does make sense that I could just cut that plug off LOL
 
Your auto harness is compatible with your manual ECU.

If you only want to get your 4Runner driving, all you need to do is connect pins 5 & 6 together from your auto park/neutral connector.

i-rXsN26M-L.jpg


The CORRECT way to do this is to run these wires to your clutch depress switch (plus wire the clutch release switch for cruise control, clutch start cancel switch, and reverse lights), but if you just want to start and run, all you need to do is cut these two wires before the park/neutral switch and connect them together, easy as that.

Note: these pin connector numbers are straight from my Toyota EWD book and do not match the diagram I posted earlier (I did not make that diagram, I copied it from another thread).

Because I am so short on time and I want to take my truck to the dunes for the first time on the 4th, im going to go this route possibly for now, and then when I get back and I can actually dig more into the EWD I can wire everything correctly. I just got my clutch cancel switch in the mail yesterday. I do want to do everything correctly and professionally so when im done its just the same as an oem swap. This is a lifesaver, you made it to where im 100% confident i can take this bad boy out for the 4th!

EDIT: Before my questions get annoying I have one more LOL. Can you direct me to where I can find this diagram in my EWD? Or should mine be the same (numerically speaking) as the pic you posted?
 
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You can make it even easier if you just want to get it running for a test drive and take the neutral safety switch off of your automatic and plug it into the harness, then just turn the rotating piece all the way to one side like it would be if it was in park, that’s how I did it with mine before doing all the wiring

I didn’t use any specific pins because I had the pigtail connectors from all the switches and just spliced the wires into them

This is along the same lines as what Jake said, you both are lifesavers for this LOL.
 
Now i've just got to find this plug in my 2000 EWD to make sure that i know which two wires to connect. Unless all of these auto trans plugs have the same numbering assigned to each wiring and I can just use the pic Jake posted for reference
 
The other thing I realized is I didnt recieve the belhousing bolts for the manual when I purchased it. I thought they would be the same as the auto but it looks like I need a two that are longer than the rest? Any clue where I can source these locally? I was thinking of going to fastenall. I think these are a 1.25 or 1.5 pitch
 
Can you direct me to where I can find this diagram in my EWD? Or should mine be the same (numerically speaking) as the pic you posted?

It's the same.

Look at the EWD that [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] posted on the first page of this thread. The circuit you are interested in creating is on page 54 "Starting and Ignition (5VZ-FE)", you can compare how the A/T and the M/T function. For the A/T, the park/neutral position switch will complete the circuit between wires 5 and 6 when your A/T is in park or neutral which will allow you to start.

i-9ggp6Kx-XL.jpg


To see the which numbers correspond to which pins on the connectors, go to "Connectors List" starting on page 260. Scroll until you find connector P1 (on page 266) and you'll see it's the same as the image I posted earlier.

i-SzP33bS-L.jpg
 
It's the same.

Look at the EWD that [MENTION=319302]Bad Luck[/MENTION] posted on the first page of this thread. The circuit you are interested in creating is on page 54 "Starting and Ignition (5VZ-FE)", you can compare how the A/T and the M/T function. For the A/T, the park/neutral position switch will complete the circuit between wires 5 and 6 when your A/T is in park or neutral which will allow you to start.

i-9ggp6Kx-XL.jpg


To see the which numbers correspond to which pins on the connectors, go to "Connectors List" starting on page 260. Scroll until you find connector P1 (on page 266) and you'll see it's the same as the image I posted earlier.

i-SzP33bS-L.jpg

Oh heck yes, I appreciate this!!! I had found that diagram in the EWD before but did not synthesize the information prior to you explaining it, that helped me connect the dots! I did not however know how to find the connectors so thank you for that!!
 
Once again, I must say thank you to everyone on this thread! Turns out, you all were right of course LOL. Couldn't have gotten this swap done in time for the 4th without all of your help!!! Took it on a test drive today with everything officially swapped over and I tell you what, it was totally worth it! I will post somewhat of a writeup for others to find, however, I got so lucky that I didnt even need to swap over my wiring harness. 100% plug and play as I was told!!! Seems like I got lucky on this one!
 
This thread is an awesome resource for me as I am doing the manual swap on my 2001! The hunt for the 03-04 ECU continues...

EDIT: WAIT. Verny! You live in Grand Rapids too???? Holy shit what are the chances. Lets link up sometime brother. I want to see your rig in person!
 

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