2000 T4Runner Cat Converter/ o2 Sensors

[marcelaacvd11]

Hello everyone - I'm new to this app/forum. I joined this forum in hopes to find a good solution to my "00" T4R issues. I have a 2000 4Runner that I bought pre-owned 8 months ago. I love this ride but unfortunately the person I bought it from did a crap job at maintaining it apparently. I just found out the Cat converter was welded back on both sides. My truck is now struggling to drive normally because the cat seems to be clogged and the o2 sensors seem to come up bad based on a reading I recently got. Now I find it has two o2 sensors and one is apparently impossible to find from what I was told. Not sure what type o2 sensors to even look for this model. As if that wasn't enough my battery is dead as well so it dies on me as soon as the truck is turned off and I have to get a jump in order to get to work. I took it to Advance Auto Parts and they ran a test on the battery. It's definitely not the starter. So I have no choice but to get a new battery. Any suggestions where I can get these parts for a decent price?

Also it's already at 200+ miles. How much longer will this truck last me with proper maintenance. I would really appreciate everyone's insight. I would do this job myself if I knew how to. I'm hoping if I can get the parts at a decent price the labor won't be as expensive?

I have provided pics to the best of my ability. By the way I live in Tampa, FL not in California.

Thank You

Marcela

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Exploresystems]

Hello and welcome. The catalytic converters and sensors can be problematic, the t4r came with both CA emissions and federal. There are only one kind to use, I believe it is the denso brand or factory. It looks like you also have a charging problem. Test and replace the alternator and battery and all of the other electronics of the vehicle will benefit. The upstream and downstream of sensors are a maintenance item and should be replaced occasionally. If you can post the trouble codes, perhaps we can figure out what is going on. Any reputable parts store or shop should be able to do this for you. These vehicles (like all others) have a few quirks, but once dialed they can be awesome machines!

Sent from my Nexus 6P using Tapatalk

 

[aontkos]

EDIT: Start here.

Well, if you're claiming that the previous owner did a crap job maintaining the 4-Runner, then you could run into problems at any time. No one can guess how long the truck will last you, just change out all the fluids and hope for the best. There are a ton of threads on here that discuss what to look for when buying a "new" 3rd Gen, so read this and make yourself a maintenance plan. If the PO really did a terrible job maintaining it, then you're probably going to need new lower ball joints, a radiator replacement, timing belt service, etc.

Replacing the battery isn't a big deal. They go bad, plain and simple. Replace it and move on.

There is only one oxygen sensor; it's the one furthest back on the exhaust. The upstream sensor is the A/F sensor. They throw different codes when they go bad. If you have a CEL then get the codes pulled, look them up, and go from there.

I don't think it's THAT abnormal to have cats welded in. If one of the cats really is clogged (if it's a California emissions then it has two) an exhaust shop can easily cut the old one out and weld a new one in.

Welcome to the forum- this is a good place to be if you have questions about your vehicle.

 

[thenightman]

Welcome to the forum, I am new here, and new to these vehicles as well. I have found this forum to be an excellent resource and a huge help.

Batteries are easy to replace and go bad over time, if it is old I would start with that.

I had a similar problem with my cats/02 sensors. I kept having code P0420, "catalytic converter efficiency." I replaced my rear 02 sensor first, it came back. I welded in a new cat (saved me like $200 over a bolt in cat), code still came back. Then I put in the front 02/AF sensor, code came back, then front cat, that finally fixed it. Mine is also a 2000, with 172xxx miles. Sensors were bought at the local parts store, Bosch brand. Rear cat was bought there as well, Magniflow brand. The front cat, a Walker brand, was bought at Rockauto.com. That site has good deals.

People recommend only toyota replacement parts. While I don't doubt that the toyota parts are better, I used these cheaper parts cause money is tight. With these parts I passed stringent CA emissions testing without a hitch.

 

[gamefreakgc]

Get the battery issue fixed first and then see if the rest of the issues go away.

You can buy a cheap battery charger from Harbor Freight and charge it overnight. If the battery keeps a charge then it's still good, but might actually be time for a new one. Alternators rarely fail, batteries die after 10ish years.

 

[marcelaacvd11]

Welcome to the forum, I am new here, and new to these vehicles as well. I have found this forum to be an excellent resource and a huge help.



Batteries are easy to replace and go bad over time, if it is old I would start with that.



I had a similar problem with my cats/02 sensors. I kept having code P0420, "catalytic converter efficiency." I replaced my rear 02 sensor first, it came back. I welded in a new cat (saved me like $200 over a bolt in cat), code still came back. Then I put in the front 02/AF sensor, code came back, then front cat, that finally fixed it. Mine is also a 2000, with 172xxx miles. Sensors were bought at the local parts store, Bosch brand. Rear cat was bought there as well, Magniflow brand. The front cat, a Walker brand, was bought at Rockauto.com. That site has good deals.



People recommend only toyota replacement parts. While I don't doubt that the toyota parts are better, I used these cheaper parts cause money is tight. With these parts I passed stringent CA emissions testing without a hitch.

[MENTION=166333]thenightman[/MENTION] Thanks so much for your insight. Yeah I had the same P0420, "catalytic converter efficiency" code. Based on the pictures I posted and from what I'm learning, it seems like my best bet is to get what's called a cat back and the exhaust manifold. I don't know. I am definitely on a budget but I also need this vehicle up and running properly.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[marcelaacvd11]

Get the battery issue fixed first and then see if the rest of the issues go away.

You can buy a cheap battery charger from Harbor Freight and charge it overnight. If the battery keeps a charge then it's still good, but might actually be time for a new one. Alternators rarely fail, batteries die after 10ish years.

[MENTION=115347]gamefreakgc[/MENTION] I went on a mission today and found a place where I bought a brand new heavy duty battery for $84 with a 2 yr lifespan. $64 less than Advance Auto Parts. I'm letting run now after changing the old battery out. Still have to see how it drives.

 

[marcelaacvd11]

EDIT: Start here.

Well, if you're claiming that the previous owner did a crap job maintaining the 4-Runner, then you could run into problems at any time. No one can guess how long the truck will last you, just change out all the fluids and hope for the best. There are a ton of threads on here that discuss what to look for when buying a "new" 3rd Gen, so read this and make yourself a maintenance plan. If the PO really did a terrible job maintaining it, then you're probably going to need new lower ball joints, a radiator replacement, timing belt service, etc.

Replacing the battery isn't a big deal. They go bad, plain and simple. Replace it and move on.

There is only one oxygen sensor; it's the one furthest back on the exhaust. The upstream sensor is the A/F sensor. They throw different codes when they go bad. If you have a CEL then get the codes pulled, look them up, and go from there.

I don't think it's THAT abnormal to have cats welded in. If one of the cats really is clogged (if it's a California emissions then it has two) an exhaust shop can easily cut the old one out and weld a new one in.

Welcome to the forum- this is a good place to be if you have questions about your vehicle.

[MENTION=102336]aontkos[/MENTION] My apologies I haven't had an opportunity to thank you for your insight. It is definitely helpful as has everyone else's. Yes I have definitely learned a lot from this forum these past two days. I'm not in CA but apparently finding a mechanic who will work on an exhaust is close to impossible. Apparently no one wants to deal or mess with it. Which I can't understand why especially when there are no emissions in the state of Florida. I did change the battery and after another reading from Advance Auto there were no problems with the alternator, starter or ignition. However the car does struggle to take off and it seems to vibrate loudly if I go past 50 miles/hour. Plus it sounds horrible when I drive off. There seems to also be a slight rattling sound when I drive it as well. Sigh this is definitely going to cost me money fixing all these things that are coming up. But I need to do it otherwise I'm out of a vehicle. And that's not an option. I need to know what needs attention now before I get a bigger more costly problem later.

 

[ksigh]

Well the rattling sound and vibration past 50+ sounds like it might be your u-joints. I actually just replaced mine today. Parts itself isn't badly priced.. I bought my u-joints for $20 each at AutoZone. Somebody might chime in and recommend a certain brand. I just bought the ones in my budget and so far it's holding up well.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

 

[psraff]

Well the rattling sound and vibration past 50+ sounds like it might be your u-joints. I actually just replaced mine today. Parts itself isn't badly priced.. I bought my u-joints for $20 each at AutoZone. Somebody might chime in and recommend a certain brand. I just bought the ones in my budget and so far it's holding up well.

Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk

Up here, I take my drive lines to Six States Destibutors and they'll inspect (all components of your drive line) install, grease your u-joints for a great price. Sure you can find a place like that down there. Our drive lines are easy to drop. As stated in other threads, line up the grease fittings on both ends when installing. It should go in the same position it comes out ( or how it left the factory).

Sent from my SM-G920I using Tapatalk