2001 Limited 5-Speed Manual Swap
- Thread starter nateboor
- Start date
RandyBobandy
New member
A beat civic with a junkyard turbo from a duramax or something is one of my dream cars
brillo_76
Elite Member
Yes as I am the owner of the limited Randy and I pulled the body harness out of. I can assure you the entire rig has to come apart. The entire dash all the interior the fuse box. So heed that warning.
Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk
Been a while, but here are some pictures and an update on my progress...
Introducing my 2001 Limited...
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50658410928/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4189[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50658410928_eb66cb8f1c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_4189[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
I dont have any pictures of removing the auto transmission, but it went fairly smooth. The bolts behind the torque converter and flywheel were tricky, just gotta have nimble hands I guess. Overall, there was A LOT less rust than the '98.
Next, I fit a new rear main seal and my Marlin Crawler Clutch Kit up. The valve covers are awful on this truck... oil is caked everywhere.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50659231437/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4210[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659231437_5915962782_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4210[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Aaaand, its in! Was tricky getting it at the same angle as the truck, but we stacked 1 1x plank across the Harbor Freight Trans Jack so it would sit level, then 2 1x boards under the front of the transmission to get the right angle. After feeling it get lodged into the clutch splines, it just needed a little back n forth love to get it through the pilot bearing.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50659267232/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4224[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659267232_411ba44baf_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4224[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
No more progress pictures at this time, but I will be mounting up my master cylinder and clutch pedal next. I went to a local auto performance store and picked up 36" stainless braided line instead of running solid like OEM - made things a lot cleaner and easier.
Items I need to learn/test:
1. How to neatly and safely cap off all unused plugs.
2. I am putting my J-shift t-case in, which has 2 plugs on it, but the auto harness only has 1 plug that will fit. So, I guess I'll need to learn which plug I need most? I am assuming one is 4-Hi and the other 4-Low
3. Will my 98 cluster work in this truck? Would be nice to omit the PRND.
Introducing my 2001 Limited...
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50658410928/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4189[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50658410928_eb66cb8f1c_z.jpg" width="640" height="480" alt="IMG_4189[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
I dont have any pictures of removing the auto transmission, but it went fairly smooth. The bolts behind the torque converter and flywheel were tricky, just gotta have nimble hands I guess. Overall, there was A LOT less rust than the '98.
Next, I fit a new rear main seal and my Marlin Crawler Clutch Kit up. The valve covers are awful on this truck... oil is caked everywhere.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50659231437/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4210[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659231437_5915962782_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4210[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Aaaand, its in! Was tricky getting it at the same angle as the truck, but we stacked 1 1x plank across the Harbor Freight Trans Jack so it would sit level, then 2 1x boards under the front of the transmission to get the right angle. After feeling it get lodged into the clutch splines, it just needed a little back n forth love to get it through the pilot bearing.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50659267232/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4224[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50659267232_411ba44baf_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4224[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
No more progress pictures at this time, but I will be mounting up my master cylinder and clutch pedal next. I went to a local auto performance store and picked up 36" stainless braided line instead of running solid like OEM - made things a lot cleaner and easier.
Items I need to learn/test:
1. How to neatly and safely cap off all unused plugs.
2. I am putting my J-shift t-case in, which has 2 plugs on it, but the auto harness only has 1 plug that will fit. So, I guess I'll need to learn which plug I need most? I am assuming one is 4-Hi and the other 4-Low
3. Will my 98 cluster work in this truck? Would be nice to omit the PRND.
toyotaspeed90
New member
For the retention of the J shift you'll want to see how I attacked this in my 97 limited 5 speed/J shift swap.
I kept all of the limited 4wd electronics/wiring but made a couple small changes. Don't follow my wire color/pins as they've probably changed between years.
In short the 4wd button switches to ground, tells the 4wd computer to engage the transfercase motors to go into 4wd, when the transfercase successfully goes into 4wd it sends a signal (ground) to the 4wd computer, which turn tells the ADD relay to engage the front axle.
So - the workaround is super simple. Make sure you have the J shift connected to the proper 4wd and 4wd low switches/wiring to the limited.
At the 4wd computer connect the ground signal from the 4wd button to the ground signal from the 4wd switch in the transfercase. Keep both connected to the computer but jumper them.
What, in short, happens is when you shift the J shift into 4wd, the 4wd computer receives a ground as if the button was pushed and the 4wd is engaged. At least in my 97 there's absolutely no issues without the transfercase motor not existing. It then tells the VSVs for ADD to run (and it works).
I kept all of the limited 4wd electronics/wiring but made a couple small changes. Don't follow my wire color/pins as they've probably changed between years.
In short the 4wd button switches to ground, tells the 4wd computer to engage the transfercase motors to go into 4wd, when the transfercase successfully goes into 4wd it sends a signal (ground) to the 4wd computer, which turn tells the ADD relay to engage the front axle.
So - the workaround is super simple. Make sure you have the J shift connected to the proper 4wd and 4wd low switches/wiring to the limited.
At the 4wd computer connect the ground signal from the 4wd button to the ground signal from the 4wd switch in the transfercase. Keep both connected to the computer but jumper them.
What, in short, happens is when you shift the J shift into 4wd, the 4wd computer receives a ground as if the button was pushed and the 4wd is engaged. At least in my 97 there's absolutely no issues without the transfercase motor not existing. It then tells the VSVs for ADD to run (and it works).
phattyduck
Elite Member
No, not without *major* modifications (like, swapping over all the interior wiring with it).
You should be able to modify the stock cluster so the PRND21 is not visible. The manual trans cluster from '99-'00 just has black pieces in those locations. There is a small chance you can order those parts from Toyota, they are cheap if available.
-Charlie
Thanks to both of you for your responses! I will use your advice once I am to that point in the process and am buttoning up the details.
With difficulty, I mounted my master cylinder and clutch pedal. Not sure if everyone else found this part of the process easy, but there was simply no precise way to measure where to drill the holes. Even my pops had trouble with it and that dude is a genius. Without going into too much detail, I drilled way too many holes and I am not proud of it, but... it's done.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50684942827/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4239[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50684942827_5f29c644da_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4239[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Currently, I am focusing on identifying which of the wires on my main AT plug I need to jump in order to start this shitbox. Here is my plug, wires, and colors. I'm thankful I pulled back the plastic wire wrap, because the wires changed colors at the plug from being saturated in oil over all these years. I believe I need to jump wire 1 (black) and 4 (black and "faded?" white/yellow).
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50684945552/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4251[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50684945552_390e0e9572_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4251[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
With difficulty, I mounted my master cylinder and clutch pedal. Not sure if everyone else found this part of the process easy, but there was simply no precise way to measure where to drill the holes. Even my pops had trouble with it and that dude is a genius. Without going into too much detail, I drilled way too many holes and I am not proud of it, but... it's done.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50684942827/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4239[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50684942827_5f29c644da_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4239[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Currently, I am focusing on identifying which of the wires on my main AT plug I need to jump in order to start this shitbox. Here is my plug, wires, and colors. I'm thankful I pulled back the plastic wire wrap, because the wires changed colors at the plug from being saturated in oil over all these years. I believe I need to jump wire 1 (black) and 4 (black and "faded?" white/yellow).
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50684945552/in/dateposted-public/" title="IMG_4251[1]"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50684945552_390e0e9572_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="IMG_4251[1]"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Jump wires 5 & 6 to complete the starting circuit, jumping these two wires will tell the ignition that the transmission is in park or neutral and will allow the ignition to turn over.
That does not seem to be the pattern of the plug I am looking at... could easily be I am looking at the wrong one. I was following this thread where he shows the plug I am looking at + the jumper he made (near the 3/4 of the page): 2002 Toyota 4Runner 5sp swap
Team_Jake
Member
It could be different since mine is a '99. If you look at the EWD for your year, under "starting and ignition" it should tell you everything you need to know.
RandyBobandy
New member
You can also unbolt the switch from the transmission, plug it into the wiring harness, and turn it all the way to one side like it would be if it was in park, that should allow you to start and drive it to test. That’s what I did on my 97 so it may be different on yours but I’d give it a shot if possible
toyotaspeed90
New member
What I would suggest is finding the simplest point that requires the AT or ground signal to allow the start cycle to happen. For me this was incorporating the clutch switch and clutch start cancel into the harness at the kick panel on the drivers side. Your year will be different... I'll see if I posted the spreadsheet I created for my 97.
I used a manual ECU so, for me, that wasnt an issue. It was to allow the COR and starting to be incorporated into the clutch/cancel switches.
I used a manual ECU so, for me, that wasnt an issue. It was to allow the COR and starting to be incorporated into the clutch/cancel switches.
Appreciate everyone's input, however, I am going to say that making the jumper wire between terminals 9 and 6 on the main A/T plug is definitely the easiest option for my year/2002. Use 5/32" or 1/8" spade terminal connectors - not sure which, but definitely not 1/4".
I grabbed this photo from the FSM. At the bottom of each page it is noted "2002 4Runner (RM887U)"... not sure what that is noting exactly, but I felt confident using this FSM because 2001 and 2002 obviously share more similarities than earlier sub-gens.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50699298708/in/dateposted-public/" title="Capture"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50699298708_e6b7b5a134.jpg" width="500" height="416" alt="Capture"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Once I jumped the two terminals, she fired right up!!
My 4wd light was flashing and my VSC lights were on, in addition to the expected CEL. I'll have to identify why those lights were on, since I hooked all my VSC/ABS/TRAC computer stuff back up. I went to try and bleed the clutch system, but we couldn't build any pressure, so I'm going to buy a new Master cylinder.
I grabbed this photo from the FSM. At the bottom of each page it is noted "2002 4Runner (RM887U)"... not sure what that is noting exactly, but I felt confident using this FSM because 2001 and 2002 obviously share more similarities than earlier sub-gens.
<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="https://www.flickr.com/photos/190830156@N04/50699298708/in/dateposted-public/" title="Capture"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50699298708_e6b7b5a134.jpg" width="500" height="416" alt="Capture"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>
Once I jumped the two terminals, she fired right up!!
My 4wd light was flashing and my VSC lights were on, in addition to the expected CEL. I'll have to identify why those lights were on, since I hooked all my VSC/ABS/TRAC computer stuff back up. I went to try and bleed the clutch system, but we couldn't build any pressure, so I'm going to buy a new Master cylinder.
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Hey yall, it's been a while. I finished the swap over the winter in our garage with our wood burning stove to keep me warm, but let it sit until now. I gotta say... this thing is spiraling towards being an absolute beast - I'm so excited.
First things first, as far the transmission goes this unit drives PERFECT. The feeling when I first turned it over, it actually started, and then pushed it through all 5 gears down the road was euphoric. If you're looking for motivation, KEEP PUSHING. It's worth it.
Anyway, the suspension is getting the VIP treatment.
Front
Rear
Additional Misc. Tasks
As you can see, tons of work to do to prepare for this summer. After repainting the frame, its the fun kind of work though... installing badass new parts!
First things first, as far the transmission goes this unit drives PERFECT. The feeling when I first turned it over, it actually started, and then pushed it through all 5 gears down the road was euphoric. If you're looking for motivation, KEEP PUSHING. It's worth it.
Anyway, the suspension is getting the VIP treatment.
Front
- Camburg UCA
- King 2.5 Coilover
- OEM LBJ's
- Sanded, etched, and painted LCA's (will assess if replacement is needed)
- Whiteline LCA bushings
- Diff Drop Spacer
Rear
- Freel Good Performance Outboard Shock Relocation Mount ($340)
- 12" King 2.0 Smooth Body + Resi ($550-600)
- Eibach 1" Coil ($170), per Camburg recommendation
- Marlin Crawler Axle Rebuild Kit ($130)
- Driveshaft Universal Spider Kit ($60), hopefully this resolves the vibration and isn't the double cardan joint
- Rear Bumper ($550), haven't decided on a brand
- EimKeith Lower Link Reinforcement Skids ($140) + Custom reinforcements to cover the rest of the Lower Link mount past the frame welds
- Opt Off Road Lower & Upper Links ($750), there is a TON of play in the rear suspension
- Eimkeith PCK
Additional Misc. Tasks
- Air Needle, Wire Wheel, Degrease, Acid Etch, and KBS Paint entire frame
- Cut away and repair certain rust spots
- Sand and Repaint Gas Tank Skid Plate
- Tidy up Transmission Wiring
- Order, mount, balance, and align A/T Tires
- MAAAYBE LCE Engineering Short Throw Shifter ($100), only $100? seems like a crime not to lol
As you can see, tons of work to do to prepare for this summer. After repainting the frame, its the fun kind of work though... installing badass new parts!
anniesball72
Member
Another late 3rd gen with 5speed!!!!
Hope you enjoy yours!
So glad to read you got it going! You wired yours the same way I did my 2002. Easiest to just jumped the AT plug. Mines been going strong for 5 years now. The only pitfall I encountered is I put the wrong clutch in. At the time I did my swap the Marlin HD clutch wasn’t available, out of stock. So I went with a recommended LCE dual comp clutch. Big mistake! It only lasted about 20k miles. Now I have to put a new clutch in. Other than that the 5 speed is great!
Hope you enjoy yours!
100% it was so easy... I'll just have to do a little extra work when I want Cruise Control.
Wow, I'm glad I didn't go with the LCE Clutch! I was actually eyeing it, but it sounded a little to aggressive for daily driving.
As you wish lol. I'll be taking plenty more this weekend/next week.
So... you know how I said it was "very clean", well as you can see it has its blemishes. Now, I can already hear you non-salt state people question why I would even invest time/money into this truck. Honestly, I've learned that waiting for years to finally find the "perfect build platform", is just a waste of time you could have been learning/enjoying/thrashing a less than perfect vehicle.
In this case, I'll just cut close to the upper body line and everything will be covered by an after market bumper. Our little secret. Kinda glad it has the flares now. I know the rockers are gunna be ugly. For now, who cares, I want to get to the dunes!
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Anyone have recommendations for how to set this thing on jack stands? 3 Tons seem too short for the job, especially up front. Since I'm going to be working on all suspension stuff, I dont want to jack it up on the axle, but need more height to reach the frame with 3 tons... really dont feel like investing in 6 tons right now...
This is my only option for places to work on it from now on, so here it is with 3 ton jack stands maxed out up front. Gunna readjust with pops help tomorrow.
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This is the Eimkeith Lower Control Arm Mount Reinforcement. The red is the outline of an additional piece I'm going to make to help reinforce the rest of the mount both inboard and outboard. That frame weld is always a weak point, especially inboard.
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