2002 Toyota 4Runner Engine Help

I agree it's looking good. The oil exam is not 100% conclusive as there are times where the coolant passage of the head gasket leaks straight into the cylinder and burns off so it does not show up in the oil but usually if that's the case the temperature spikes as the system can't hold pressure. Without pressure the coolant starts to boil and causes all sorts of cooling issues.

The temperature gauge doesn't start to creep up from the middle until around 230 degrees so it may be good to read the coolant temperature from the ECU if you can. There are some simple apps like Torque and cheap bluetooth readers you can try if you have an Android device. Won't cost you more than $25 and it's very helpful. There's handheld devices you can plug in too.
Are there any apps for Apple? Do you know of a decent OBD device that won’t break the bank? $150 tops
 
Torque Pro $5 for android or apple. Provides all info in a highly customizable interface.

Torque Car Pro - OBD2 Scanner on the App Store

Its really all you need and its tough to beat the price and flexibility - you can create an interface no one else has pretty easily. Luck.

Do you use an apple or android phone? Does anyone have a specific Bluetooth reader they use with an apple phone? When I opened the app the first comment I see is someone can’t get their iPhone to connect via Bluetooth to the reader. Thank you!
 
Do you use an apple or android phone? Does anyone have a specific Bluetooth reader they use with an apple phone? When I opened the app the first comment I see is someone can’t get their iPhone to connect via Bluetooth to the reader. Thank you!

BT doesn't work with Apple. You need an ELM327 wifi adapter.
 
Do you use an apple or android phone? Does anyone have a specific Bluetooth reader they use with an apple phone? When I opened the app the first comment I see is someone can’t get their iPhone to connect via Bluetooth to the reader. Thank you!

I use android but the code is written for both types. Yes both types utilize the phones's blue tooth to connect to a blue tooth odb2 reader with general parameters of "ELM 327", just search for that when buying.

Of course like other blue tooth devices they must connect via a password which is usually something like 1234 or 0000. Once connected the first time, its automatic after, easy peasy.

Here is one for Both apple and android in one unit: Amazon.com
 
I think the confusion is that for several years torque didn't work with apple, then it only worked with wifi, but it seems they have resolved both issues.

I'll toss in another recommendation for TorquePro. It's a great cheap option.
 
I think the confusion is that for several years torque didn't work with apple, then it only worked with wifi, but it seems they have resolved both issues.

I'll toss in another recommendation for TorquePro. It's a great cheap option.

Thank you
 
That's a great start. I still think you might be in the clear but definitely test the engine. You can borrow a coolant pressure/radiator test kit from Autozone or O'Reilly's but call ahead to confirm. They do tool rental programs if you didn't already know that. Super handy for tools you only need once and is a bit of a waste to purchase. Before you leave the store open the kit and see if the Toyota adapters fit the radiator, not all of them do. Be careful if you are driving your 4Runner to pick up the tool as you can't remove the cap if you do.

Ordered the OTC compression guage just to be sure I had something decent, spark plugs, and wires. Went with IEM wires since the others had been on since 2011. Compression was as follows: 1-210, 3-200, 5-210, 2-210, 4-195, 6-205. This is all good since manual says no more than 15 psi between cylinders. Does this mean I am good? Only thing I noticed was coolant was slightly lower than when I filled it in the radiator change. It was about 1/2 way between L and H, now it is around the L mark. When it was driving it around to heat it up I had the heat running. Is it possible that the coolant hadn’t fully circulated through the system?
 
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Ordered the OTC compression guage just to be sure I had something decent, spark plugs, and wires. Went with IEM wires since the others had been on since 2011. Compression was as follows: 1-210, 3-200, 5-210, 2-210, 4-195, 6-205. This is all good since manual says no more than 15 psi between cylinders. Does this mean I am good? Only thing I noticed was coolant was slightly lower than when I filled it in the radiator change. It was about 1/2 way between L and H, now it is around the L mark. When it was driving it around to heat it up I had the heat running. Is it possible that the coolant hadn’t fully circulated through the system?

Yes it is common for air to get trapped after a coolant change and driving around will bring it over to the radiator and out the expansion hose. Then as the engine cools off, it draws coolant back into the radiator through the same hose and lowers the expansion/reservoir tank. Keep watching it but it should not move hardly at all now, just little fluctuations higher or lower depending on the engine temperature.

I agree those are great compression numbers and does not point to a head gasket failure. It's not 100% conclusive yet as only time will tell but it is looking really good and I think you can start to drive it more confidently unless you get a very obvious sign saying otherwise.
 
Yes it is common for air to get trapped after a coolant change and driving around will bring it over to the radiator and out the expansion hose. Then as the engine cools off, it draws coolant back into the radiator through the same hose and lowers the expansion/reservoir tank. Keep watching it but it should not move hardly at all now, just little fluctuations higher or lower depending on the engine temperature.

I agree those are great compression numbers and does not point to a head gasket failure. It's not 100% conclusive yet as only time will tell but it is looking really good and I think you can start to drive it more confidently unless you get a very obvious sign saying otherwise.

We put it back in the road today. Probably 10 miles round trip to and from work. Going to see how that goes. Two trips so far and everything looks ok. Is there anything else I can do to verify the engine is ok? My wife drives this 4Runner so if I can keep her from breaking down that would be great. If this continues to go well then the timing belt will be next along with fluid changes for transmission and differentials.
 
That is definitely confidence inspiring. Those compression numbers look good. If you want to keep going, you could do a leak down test, or a chemical test that checks for exhaust gasses in your radiator.

How far is her work commute? I would probably just drive it a little at a time to build confidence, and maybe to a long trip on the weekend even if you are staying close to home.
 
That is definitely confidence inspiring. Those compression numbers look good. If you want to keep going, you could do a leak down test, or a chemical test that checks for exhaust gasses in your radiator.

How far is her work commute? I would probably just drive it a little at a time to build confidence, and maybe to a long trip on the weekend even if you are staying close to home.

Her work commute is about 5 or 6 miles each way. Is it worth buying a leak down tester to continue along or would you just drive it? I am open to the leak down test if it’s worthwhile. Would that test give me definitive information about the health of the engine and if I have any issues to worry about?
 
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Since you could have a microscopic crack in the gasket or head, I don't know if anything is definitive. However that compression test shows it's okay right now. If it's leaking, it's small enough that it's not detectable right now. I've never done a leak down test though, but from everything I've heard they catch more issues than a compression test.

Since she is relatively close, and she's not at risk of breaking down in the middle of nowhere, I'd probably just go for some long test drives and call it good. You could also do a compression test from time to time and monitor if the situation is getting worse. It wouldn't catch a catastrophic failure, but it could help.

Another cheap option is to get a wireless borescope on amazon for $30ish and put it in the spark plug holes. You'll be able to tell if one cylinder is a lot cleaner than the others, indicating coolant in the combustion chamber and steam cleaning all the gunk off in there.
 
Since you could have a microscopic crack in the gasket or head, I don't know if anything is definitive. However that compression test shows it's okay right now. If it's leaking, it's small enough that it's not detectable right now. I've never done a leak down test though, but from everything I've heard they catch more issues than a compression test.

Since she is relatively close, and she's not at risk of breaking down in the middle of nowhere, I'd probably just go for some long test drives and call it good. You could also do a compression test from time to time and monitor if the situation is getting worse. It wouldn't catch a catastrophic failure, but it could help.

Another cheap option is to get a wireless borescope on amazon for $30ish and put it in the spark plug holes. You'll be able to tell if one cylinder is a lot cleaner than the others, indicating coolant in the combustion chamber and steam cleaning all the gunk off in there.
The borescope sounds really cool. I haven’t done of those since working on aircraft engines. I wish I had one when I did the compression test. That would have saved some time.
 

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