2003 T4R replacement of E-brake cables

[werminghausen]

My poor T4R is a rust bucket, the frame is fouling away.... and so did the E-brake cable. I had tried to adjust that cable (I failed the inspection) until I noticed that the bowden cable spiral (the stationary part) was broken and entirely rusted out..... an entire piece I found missing and it shortened the cable by 1/2" and there was no reliable counterforce from that spiral.

Now I decided to replace that cable and started with removing the left side cable (from cabin to the rear left wheel). And I got stuck at the portion above the tank.
I see in the diagram that that there is another bracket up to the frame.
This bracket must be above the tank?
Is this bracket where the cable is clipped to (hooked in to) or is it like the other brackets a fixed screw connection to the frame?

What I am trying to find out: Do I need to lower or remove the tank in order to change that damned old cable?

Thanks for any hints,

Martin

 

[MikeinNH67]

When I did mine I cut the old cable as close as I could to the tank and left the rest. I then fished the new one into the same area but did not use the brackets that can't be touched without dropping the tank. It was a pain for sure and if I knew the tank straps were going to need replacing soon after I may have done them at the same time and dropped the tank some. That eventual tank strap replacing brought it's own cussing as both female threaded pieces broke off of the frame.

 

[werminghausen]

Hi Mikein,

thanks.... yes, that is what I thought too.
I had 2 broken tank straps last year, tank was sitting on the bottom skid plate...and I needed to replace the straps. What a pain, as each of the skid plate bolts were rusted out and broke off. I had to weld new female threads ino the frame... 8mm nuts. This was problematic as some places are just very difficult to weld.
[I think this is my last T4R...just sick of the rust that is unavoidable in our areas]

I could try and lower the tank but I am also fearing that something else is coming up.
Question is how low does the tank need to be dropped in order to do the bracket? If I could lower the tank just an inch ...whatever the strap bolts could be opened without dropping the tank fully...and remove the last bracket... that could work.

As an alternative your strategy sounds feasible.... and it is what I will probably do as well.

Just leaving the old cable in place where it cannot be removed with the tank in place.

Martin

 

[MikeinNH67]

Hi Mikein,

thanks.... yes, that is what I thought too.
I had 2 broken tank straps last year, tank was sitting on the bottom skid plate...and I needed to replace the straps. What a pain, as each of the skid plate bolts were rusted out and broke off. I had to weld new female threads ino the frame... 8mm nuts. This was problematic as some places are just very difficult to weld.
[I think this is my last T4R...just sick of the rust that is unavoidable in our areas]

I could try and lower the tank but I am also fearing that something else is coming up.
Question is how low does the tank need to be dropped in order to do the bracket? If I could lower the tank just an inch ...whatever the strap bolts could be opened without dropping the tank fully...and remove the last bracket... that could work.

As an alternative your strategy sounds feasible.... and it is what I will probably do as well.

Just leaving the old cable in place where it cannot be removed with the tank in place.

Martin

Yeah, I welded new nuts on to mine too. Lots of welding I've done to this frame but in reality it's way less than what I did on my Cherokee way earlier in it's life. Look at the other trucks of similar age, especially pickups...just utter rust heaps. I just wish they warranteed the 4R frames like they did the Tundras. As for tank dropping, not sure on which way it will drop easier but that usually shows as soon as you start lowering it.

 

[werminghausen]

Thanks Mike,

I received the new cable yesterday and went to work right away.
I cut the old cable left and right the tank.... then I could pull out the middle parts. That third bracket is not a fixed connection to the cable. It is an open u-shaped guide for the cable, see picture.
Then I removed the rubber boot that seals the cable to the chassis where it enters the floor to the inside in order to get it fiddled through behind the tank.
I used a stiff wire, connected the end of the cable... fiddled the wire through and could pull the new cable.. the rest was easy. I did lower the tank slightly but only loosened the strap bolts 1/2 "- 1", non of the bolts came off.
Then I connected the cable to the rear brake and started assembling the e-brake.
I should mention that I did a fair amount of welding on the 2 shields at the brake... one is the smaller shield that 'seals' the drum brake. And the bigger shield is that open shield for the disk. I guess these things just rot away on these cars like the frame and the old cable.
Living in the rust belt has its toll.

Assembly of the drum is a pain but I managed okay with the sip tie trick (compressing the 2 springs for install with each 2 small zip ties, install with the caps, lock the top cap and then cut off the zip ties.

I did adjust the brake shoe first, then I adjusted the front cable at the split to the 2 rear cables below the middle console.
After some e- brake testing (e-brake got really hot) I have at least a decent brake result, still not great and I'll see if it passes inspection.
With the e-brake fully engaged the 8 cyl would still pull off at 1200rpm with no problem.

I think the design of the T4R e-brake is just limited or am I missing something?

Best, Martin

 

[werminghausen]

Hi Mike....
2003 T4R rust bucket
here is what I found a month ago when I removed the rear bumper.
Both ends of the frame were gone... left side a lousy job from the former owner
(left rear cabin bracket was gone obviously) and the right side bracket was now gone and I welded it back in place because I did not have the guts to remove the old bracket... I just welded a new one over the old bracket.
Also both rear axle end stop buffers were gone. I was welding new ones.
See pictures

Happy Holidays everyone

 

[MikeinNH67]

Glad to hear you got it done. The zip tie trick is a winner for sure. These parking brakes really are on the weak side.

Looks like your rust in the back was worse than mine but I did something similar rebuilding that section. Looks good now!

At least I enjoy metal fabrication as long as there's space to work. BTW, I did not bother installing new bumpers in the back after the old fell off.