2008 v6 Engine Coolant substitute swap

Veritas

Veritas

New member
I am looking to swap my engine coolant since I am approaching 100,000 miles here very soon. I researched it and found some excellent instructions on how to do it on this forum, but I have a question I didn't really see an answer for.

Can I use a different product instead of the Toyota SLLC? My dealership wants to charge me $22/gal for diluted (50/50) Toyota SLLC, that seems a little ridiculous when I can get this Peak concentrate (with 1 gallon distilled water) for nearly half the price. It says it is compatible with my car and is also "phosphate-free and silicate-free formula" and "Meets ASTM D-3306 and ASTM D-4342". Or is there any other that meets Toyota specs?

The only thing I dont see it saying is that it is Non-Nitrate and Non-borate or that it is a low organic acid blend.

Here is the product:
Peak Long Life Antifreeze/Coolant (1 Gallon) PRA003: Get the best Engine Coolant/Antifreeze at Advance Auto Parts

I would greatly appreciate any feedback, thank you!
 
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Under Specifications tab:

OEM Approved (Vehicle Manufacturer): GM, Ford, Chrysler and Honda

GM pretty much uses predominately Dexcool in their vehicles (aside from the Pontiac Vibe which uses rebranded Toyota SLLC as that is itself a rebranded Matrix), Dexcool is not for Toyota.

That's the problem with these "universal" coolants and fluids.

I can suggest Zerex Asian Formula as it is safe for Toyota vehicles (also Valvoline says they'll cover damage caused by their coolant if you can prove it), the Valvoline guys showed me some chemical break downs and it does match up properly.

But I'd still recommend Toyota SLLC, I mean is $22-44 really that much money for something you're not gonna touch in 5yr/50k (the service interval after the first coolant service on Toyota SLLC systems.)
 
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You should be able to get it for about $17 / gallon from a dealer. You just need to establish a relationship with one and open a commercial account. Make up the business name... doesn't matter. Tell them you're a small shop. They'll knock about 20% off the retail prices. I have this set up at three different dealerships in the Chicago area. My company is a technology/general services sole proprietorship -- I'm not a shop.
 
chitown40 said:
You should be able to get it for about $17 / gallon from a dealer. You just need to establish a relationship with one and open a commercial account. Make up the business name... doesn't matter. Tell them you're a small shop. They'll knock about 20% off the retail prices. I have this set up at three different dealerships in the Chicago area. My company is a technology/general services sole proprietorship -- I'm not a shop.
Click to expand...

Yeah the $22 is the company parts discount unfortunately.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
Under Specifications tab:

OEM Approved (Vehicle Manufacturer): GM, Ford, Chrysler and Honda

GM pretty much uses predominately Dexcool in their vehicles (aside from the Pontiac Vibe which uses rebranded Toyota SLLC as that is itself a rebranded Matrix), Dexcool is not for Toyota.

That's the problem with these "universal" coolants and fluids.

I can suggest Zerex Asian Formula as it is safe for Toyota vehicles (also Valvoline says they'll cover damage caused by their coolant if you can prove it), the Valvoline guys showed me some chemical break downs and it does match up properly.

But I'd still recommend Toyota SLLC, I mean is $22-44 really that much money for something you're not gonna touch in 5yr/50k (the service interval after the first coolant service on Toyota SLLC systems.)
Click to expand...


So you are saying the Peak is no good?

It sounds like it meets all Toyota specs, unless I missed something, I even called them and they said it was good to go. Can you elaborate on the negative impacts Peak would have on my vehicle?

Is it something like it will eat the radiator and destroy the engine or something like you may not get 50,000 miles out of it? Basically is it a mechanical destructive issue or a longevity/preference issue?

I just want to be certain before/if I go return the Peak stuff, I got is for $10/gal. Thank you!
 
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I couldn't tell you exactly, that's entering needing to be almost a chemist to break it down that definitively and I haven't studied extensively what each ingredient/additive does.

The main issue is that Dexcool is NOT compatible with Toyota systems and that Peak specifically states its OEM approved for GM; which is a red flag.

The issue I consistently run into with aftermarket coolants is that their ingredient lists and chemical make-ups are very difficult to pin down. It doesn't help they claim to fit an extremely wide range of vehicle makes. Typically coolants that are made for Domestic vehicles will not match up for Asian vehicles, so seeing that its specc'd for GM, Ford, and Chrysler makes it very suspicious to me, even though they try to sneak Honda in there. I had an indepth discussion with Valvoline reps a while back when grilling them about the Zerex formula, they ended up having to reformulate it a few times to meet Asian standards and would not match up with most Domestic vehicles.

I'd also like to point out that the Pontiac Vibe uses a rebranded Toyota SLLC because the typical GM Dexcool will not work.

I've seen everything from advanced corrosion, cavitation, gelling, and other issues from using the wrong coolant in a vehicle for long periods of time (tens of thousands of miles, years, ect.) but usually its damage that isn't noticed until the engine is torn down and inspected. Many things get overlooked as age/parts such as radiators, heater cores, piping, but some of these parts fail due to corrosion internally. A notable example (though not entirely applicable to this case) is when silica drops out of the coolant and starts sand blasting the interior, it tends to wear out bends in the radiators and other coolant passages and cause leaks.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
I couldn't tell you exactly, that's entering needing to be almost a chemist to break it down that definitively and I haven't studied extensively what each ingredient/additive does.

The main issue is that Dexcool is NOT compatible with Toyota systems and that Peak specifically states its OEM approved for GM; which is a red flag.

The issue I consistently run into with aftermarket coolants is that their ingredient lists and chemical make-ups are very difficult to pin down. It doesn't help they claim to fit an extremely wide range of vehicle makes. Typically coolants that are made for Domestic vehicles will not match up for Asian vehicles, so seeing that its specc'd for GM, Ford, and Chrysler makes it very suspicious to me, even though they try to sneak Honda in there. I had an indepth discussion with Valvoline reps a while back when grilling them about the Zerex formula, they ended up having to reformulate it a few times to meet Asian standards and would not match up with most Domestic vehicles.

I'd also like to point out that the Pontiac Vibe uses a rebranded Toyota SLLC because the typical GM Dexcool will not work.

I've seen everything from advanced corrosion, cavitation, gelling, and other issues from using the wrong coolant in a vehicle for long periods of time (tens of thousands of miles, years, ect.) but usually its damage that isn't noticed until the engine is torn down and inspected. Many things get overlooked as age/parts such as radiators, heater cores, piping, but some of these parts fail due to corrosion internally. A notable example (though not entirely applicable to this case) is when silica drops out of the coolant and starts sand blasting the interior, it tends to wear out bends in the radiators and other coolant passages and cause leaks.
Click to expand...

Thanks man, I am gonna do as you suggested and go with the Toyota brand coolant. Like you said its not much more money and if it is what is supposed to be used then that is what I will use. It makes sense and the last thing I want to do is take a working vehicle and make it inoperable because I wanted to save $20.

I appreciate the feedback, thank you very much!
 
Veritas said:
Thanks man, I am gonna do as you suggested and go with the Toyota brand coolant. Like you said its not much more money and if it is what is supposed to be used then that is what I will use. It makes sense and the last thing I want to do is take a working vehicle and make it inoperable because I wanted to save $20.

I appreciate the feedback, thank you very much!
Click to expand...

Another option if money is tight is simply draining the contents of the radiator now with the right pink stuff (1 gallon) and calling it good until next year, sure you may get 40-50% of the total capacity but this is really long life antifreeze and you're still under the 10 year life (although I don't know your mileage) so freshening it up should do the trick. I just did mine that way, and will do a yearly radiator drain and refill to keep the coolant nice and fresh, that way you'd be looking at the same cost as the stuff you have now. Just a thought.
 
I am going to do this today, I went to the dealership yesterday and got 3 gallons, to my surprise it was $17/gallon! That made me happy, I just wish they sold it in a concentrated form, I hate paying that much for 50% WATER!

Its just not worth the money to chance it, I am at 97,000 miles so want to do everything I can to keep my car alive the longest. Hopefully this goes quick and easy without an issue!
 
I didn't start it today since the first thing I did was look for the engine drain plugs and I don't see anything anywhere close to what the Toyota diagram and directions show in the 16-5 pdf that I found on the forum.

Does anyone have pictures or better diagrams of the engine drain plugs or the heater control valve?

Thanks!
 
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riceandpho said:
i think the older toyota coolant was the concentrated red, i remember the 3rd gen used it.
Click to expand...

Yep, I just used the red long-life in my 3rd gen when I did the timing belt, and did a rad drain and fill in my 4th gen with the pink stuff. Had to buy distilled water and do a 50/50 mix with the red, not so with pink. They are the same price at the dealer by my place, which is funny since one is half water, thus Toyota believes their coolant concentrate is worth essentially $50 a gallon for pink (at least at my local dealer). I guess it does last longer, but it feels to me like we're paying for "convenience" with the pink stuff, oh well, it's all I'll use in my 4th gen anyway.
 
Veritas said:
I didn't start it today since the first thing I did was look for the engine drain plugs and I don't see anything anywhere close to what the Toyota diagram and directions show in the 16-5 pdf that I found on the forum.

Does anyone have pictures or better diagrams of the engine drain plugs or the heater control valve?

Thanks!
Click to expand...

I think I may have found the answer and wanted to post it in the event somebody stumbles upon this thread in the future. This method worked absolutely great, the valves are down low on the engine, Toyota did an awful job in their illustration. to make it easy remove the tires and remove the "cover plates" inside the wheel well

The Correct Way To Drain/Fill the 4.0 Antifreeze - Page 3 - Tacoma World Forums
 
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