2011 Audio install

[ChipG]

A few More touches

Worked on the T4R a few more hours this weekend and got closer to the end.
I installed the front door component speakers and crossovers, wired the LCQ-1 end of the 9wire run, added the LCQ-1 remote Bass control and wired the amp out put 9wire. This may not sound like allot of work but, I'm 52 and anal as hell about wiring.
The method to my madness is not to be without a car or stereo throughout this whole project. currently only the speakers are hooked up to the H/U and no amp fuse etc has been installed.
The only thing left to do is pull the head unit and cut in the speaker level out (to the LCQ-1) and wire the amp output (to the speakers). Then I can install the fuses, sub and get to tuning. The wire is in place, I just didn't do the cutting & soldering.

Door w/ Polk MMC6500 components

Tweeter mounted forward of door handle. Tweeter is in a PVC end cap mounted to the door with a lamp nipple. If I remove them, I just put a black plastic plug in the .5" hole.

LCQ-1 Processor Bass control remote & LED. This unit also turns on & off equalization.

Audio Control LCQ-1 wired. This unit allows re-equalization of the factory head units tuning and bass curve.

The sub for this system is from my '07 T4R and will be temporary. It is a
JL 8w3v3 slot ported box. At some point I'll undertake building a 5th gen specific box and maybe upsize the woofer.

All for now

 

[FactoryRide]

Not meaning to revive an old thread but I looked and didn't find. Is anyone running subs to stock JBL w/ nav? I've got two 12's, a 10 farad cap, and a 3000w class D amp that I'm about to install. I was just trying to find out if anyone had any issues running 12's to the factory nav or just coin out the extra $$$ for a pioneer.

 

[yvetters77]

I'm running a 12" Polk MM sub & Polk 6.5" MM components to the stock Nav head unit in my 2010.

The biggest hurdle was space for the amps and getting a decent EQ that would work properly. Everything else works fine.

I'll try and get some pics tonight of the set up (amp locations & custom box, etc)

 

[gamerc]

Not meaning to revive an old thread but I looked and didn't find. Is anyone running subs to stock JBL w/ nav? I've got two 12's, a 10 farad cap, and a 3000w class D amp that I'm about to install. I was just trying to find out if anyone had any issues running 12's to the factory nav or just coin out the extra $$$ for a pioneer.

If you do decide to change out the factory nav, I can attest to the fact that you can get over 1k on ebay pretty fast.

 

[yvetters77]

The amps are stuffed in the area in front of the sliding tray/ behind the rear seats. The limited had a "cubby" thing that we removed and created a custom cover for.







Tweeters in the rear doors:


Sub w/ EQ mounted on top (wouldnt fit anywhere)

 

[ChipG]

Sub Install in 5th Gen T4R

I have finnally started the subwoofer cabinet for my 2011. I decided to continue this in the audio section of the forums.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/audio-electronics/111036-5th-gen-sub-cabinet.html#post1015131

ChipG

 

[axxman]

we must be on a similar wave length, I just received my speakers, Polk MM6501s for the front, I have an audio control LC7i and a JL audio M6450 which I will have to sell and get the XD700. I have an SR5 so I dont have that space behind the rear seats available. I have 2 sets of polk MOMO MM 5X7s I may end up putting in the back doors and tailgate, have had them for 6 years but never installed them anywhere.

I had 3 questions if you don't mind:

1. how did you wire the front components, did you connect to the stock wireing, or did you run new, did you have to do anything with the dash speaker?
2. Did you leave the dash speaker in?
3. what stereo do you have, stock, jbl nav, or aftermarket.

Thanks for the good photos you pretty much convinced me to go with more sound deadening in the doors.

 

[ChipG]

Stereo Install review

Answers:

The speakers were all wired into the stock harness, However, I plan to install a set of JL C5 3-ways in the front and I think I will run new dedicated wire from the amp to all used speakers. This is due to the 3-way cross-overs.
I did leave the dash speakers in knowing that in the future I was going to replace them....see answer 1.
I am using the stock non nav head unit. I have found over the last 30 years of car stereo replacement that the stock units ain't bad and I like the big knobs.
Plus, if a thief looks in and see's a stock stereo, he likely won't bother breaking the glass.

 

[axxman]

Thanks chip, you have saved me quite a bit of time, I agree with you on keeping the stock look, I don't care for touch screens either and prefer a separate gps, and a map. plus the bluetooth functions work so well, I didn't want to give that up.

I plan on keeping the stock harness for mine, but I plan on putting the MM6501 tweeters in the dash location using an adapter from tacotunes. I know it may give me some separation problems, but I am going to try it and see if it works.

I am planning on using a male and female connectors for the back of the Head unit, that way I shouldn't have to cut wires.

good luck finishing things up, I am sure it will turn out great.

 

[ChipG]

Connectors

Ax, I tried to find male & female connectors with no luck. I ended up cutting the stock speaker wires about 4 inches from the head unit and added individual
male female spade connectors. This also allowed me to swap polarity to find the correct phase. Also, you can get spade connectors anywhere.

When I get around to installing the 3-ways, I plan to put the 4" in the dash facing up and the tweeter next to it facing the driver / passenger. I still haven't figured out how I'm going to create a pod / mount that looks factory. I'm going to order a set of replacement dash grills to experiment with.

ChipG

 

[axxman]

sorry to hear that, I have 2 sets of each. hopefully there will be another meet up in DC VA soon, I would like to see and here the final result. :thanks:

 

[ChipG]

Finnished Sub

If you haven't seen my continuation of this thread in the Audio forum, Here is a couple photos of the final Sub Box.

 

[axxman]

looks great, almost factory. I am ebaying a ton of old stuff this weekend to pay for the amp and rear speakers. Car is in Florida so it will have to wait til I make it down there in a month or two.

 

[prplegophr]

Chip,

Funny I found this thread now. I've been banging my head against the wall trying to set up my LCQ-1 and JL 700 amp which it looks like you have done successfully.

I realize you have the non-nav unit while I'm using the stock nav unit, but would you mind giving me some details on how you tuned the LCQ-1 and JL 700?

Every time I get it to where it produces good sound, I wind up with a hiss from the audio and a very loud nav (and voice recognition) voice screaming at me. If I tune down to get rid of the hiss and screaming, the audio goes flat.

Any ideas?

Same amp, same processor, but otherwise aftermarket JBL components and sub.

Thanks for any advice!

 

[ChipG]

Gopher responce

Ah yes, You've found the one problem with using the factory H/U. First, I'm not familiar with the Nav unit but, I think some of the settings should be similar. There is a method to turn down the volume of the voice for nav & blue tooth, check your manual. However, if you have the gains on the amp tuned high, you may not be able to reduce the voice volume enough. The LCQ-1 has a gain setting light on each channel's level adjustment. Turn down the amp gain, turn on some music or a test tone (pink noise) to 3/4 volume on the NAV. now adjust the level on the LCQ-1 until the light for that channel comes on, then back off just a bit so the light goes out. Do this for each channel.
Now the amp, with the same music, turn up the gain until you've reached the loudest (undistorted) level you will listen to. Do this for each channel on the amp. Now turn the radio volume down to normal listening level. Note the locations of all the settings on both the LCQ-1 & the Amp. Now turn the volume down to the lowest level on the NAV and check for hiss. If it is too much, adjust the amp gains down.
FYI, if the ignition key is on, your system will be on. You can't shut it off because of the integration of blue tooth etc. So even if the radio is turned off, there will be some audible background noise from the system.

ChipG

 

[ChipG]

While we're at it...Here's the latest mod

I have started the fab for the installation of JL C5 653 components. This is a 3-way component set that requires some construction & thought prior to installation.
For what it worth, the existing speaker locations in the T4R are not the best.
A tweeter firing into the windshield and reflecting to the listener is sure to produce a headache. Some how the glass changes the pitch and there doesn't seem to be a way to correct it.
For this reason, I needed the tweeter to be aimed at the center of the passenger compartment, not at the glass. Special tweeter mounts needed.
The Mid range will be mounted into the existing dash speaker locations but, special mounts have to be fabricated and a baffle to separate the front of the speaker from the back. I may just use Dynamat for the baffle as there is no pressure created here.

Here is the raw aluminum tube coped to fit

Here is the fit to the windshield and post

Here it is wrapped in Black leatherette

And in it's final destination Passenger side

Driver side

These tweeters may look big in the pictures..they are 1.75" dia

More to come

 

[prplegophr]

Thanks Chip.

Do you know if there is a factory amp that we have to bypass? Some folks over here are thinking maybe there is an amplified signal going into the LCQ which then gets re-amplified in the JL Audio Amp, creating the pronounced hiss.

 

[ChipG]

Factory Amp

I don't know the specifics of the NAV unit, there may be an external amp. Even if there is no external amp, the signal going into the LCQ-1 is an amplified signal.
Somewhere on this forum there was posted the electrical diagrams which would show you with out a doubt if your vehicle has an external amp.
Do you have a factory subwoofer in the rear side panel? If yes, then you do.

If you find that you have an amp, the LCQ-1 is useless and you would need to use that preamp level directly into your aftermarket amp.

 

[Victor_inox]

I have started the fab for the installation of JL C5 653 components. This is a 3-way component set that requires some construction & thought prior to installation.
For what it worth, the existing speaker locations in the T4R are not the best.
A tweeter firing into the windshield and reflecting to the listener is sure to produce a headache. Some how the glass changes the pitch and there doesn't seem to be a way to correct it.
For this reason, I needed the tweeter to be aimed at the center of the passenger compartment, not at the glass. Special tweeter mounts needed.
The Mid range will be mounted into the existing dash speaker locations but, special mounts have to be fabricated and a baffle to separate the front of the speaker from the back. I may just use Dynamat for the baffle as there is no pressure created here.

Here is the raw aluminum tube coped to fit

Here is the fit to the windshield and post

Here it is wrapped in Black leatherette

And in it's final destination Passenger side

Driver side

These tweeters may look big in the pictures..they are 1.75" dia

More to come

can you make me a pair? I love what you did for tweeters. any pictures of mids setup?

 

[ChipG]

Not in business but,

Sorry, I do this stuff for my own enjoyment. I didn't mention it but that is blood in the pictures.
I will tell you where I got the materials and tools to do it.
The aluminum tube is from "McMaster Carr". They have an awesome website and the best shipping I know of. I think a 12" piece of 1.75" tube was about $9.00 plus shipping.
The tool to match the contour is from "Speedway Motors" and is used to match cuts for building roll cages. It slides over the tube and you slide it down to fit the contour you want cut. The tool was $54.
The vinyl was adhered with Weldwood contact glue. Don't use and canned spray crap, it won't hold.

The mids are the next project. The mid-woofers are going into the lower doors that I have already modified.

Chip