2011 Audio install

[axxman]

Are all tweeters really that directional? I was planning on mounting mine in the dash grill but I will have the ability to adjust them a little. I want my system to be as invisible as possible. 1 more month til mine is back up here in MD.


you need to wash your truck and stop parking under trees.

 

[ChipG]

tweeters

Yes, tweeters are that directional. Mids a little less, mid-woofers even less and sub-woofers the least directional.

 

[ChipG]

Mid Install Photos

To continue with the install fabrication, today I started on the Mid-range speaker brackets. This is a JL Audio 4" speaker trying to fit where a factory 2" lived.
I had to fab up some aluminum brackets and remold the duct under the speaker for more clearance. I was able to use a heat gun and soften the plastic duct then mashed the speaker in to the level needed.
This is just the passenger side, the driver side is not the same. Oh and the speaker grills are the next problem.

A comparison JL VS Factory Note unfinished brackets

Final brackets

Installed

Next problem

ChipG

 

[prplegophr]

Chip,

I keep asking you for advice, but maybe you can help me out again...

Did you do anything with the jumpers under the cover of the LCQ-1? Specifically the jumpers that turn the summing on/ off.

I wasn't getting a full, rich sound out of the fronts/ sides, so I tried setting channels 1/2 and 3/4 to summing. I think I just made it worse.... The fronts got real quiet while the sides/ rear got real loud and full. Strangely, which is more or less what I wanted but in reverse.

However, the Nav voice isn't screaming at me anymore!

Herb

 

[ChipG]

Gopher

I found that the LCQ-1 was very touchy about the polarity of incomming signal. I did not use the summing feature on any channel. I did have to play with the inputs from the head unit to the LCQ-1. I went by a wireing diagram I found on this forum and the I got sound but, not good sound. I had to swap leads until I found everything worked correctly. Try this, Unplug all but 1 pair of inputs, Now see how many speakers you have sound comming out of...should only be one corner of the car. Now swap the leads and see if it gets better or worse. Continue with the rest of the inputs.

Hope this helps

ChipG

 

[prplegophr]

Ok Chip... see if you can figure this one out!

I went in and revered the polarity on all speakers. Sounded phenomenal and the frequency range was such that I was shaking the door trim (apparently, I need to re-dynamat) with the subwoofer off. I drove around for a bit celebrating and decided I needed to buy you a beer.

Parked and went to class for two hours. Came back out to a stereo that sounded like it once again had the polarity reversed. Significantly reduced frequency response, essentially, I was back to where I started.

So what now... reverse the polarity again and see if it makes a difference (I'm going to do that tomorrow) or is there something weird going on with the way this system is hooked into my electrical wiring?

I'm gonna send Audio Control an e-mail too, but was hopeful you could pull through for me once again and I'd owe you two beers!

Herb

 

[ChipG]

Gopher

I hope you didn't just revese polarity on all speakers. I said play with the polarity of the inputs to the LCQ-1. One pair at a time. Also check that each corner of the car plays only out of that speaker set. Example..If you fade to the front & ballance to the right, No sound should come out of ANY other speaker (with the subwoofer off ) except the front right.

And YES the Toyota is a wierd system and the Audio Control instructions suck.

 

[prplegophr]

Chip,

I did go one input pair at a time and *think* I got it right, however, will recheck today. I was in a noisy auto shop so hey, it's always possible....

Are you saying that if I happened to get one input pair's polarity wrong, then that would mess up all the rest of the inputs?

Once I know one pair is the correct polarity, can I leave that one plugged in as I work down the rest of the inputs (and simply use the fader to play with one speaker at a time), or do I need to unplug a known good input to check the next input?

Herb

 

[ChipG]

Check this way

Sub OFF
Do a Fade / Balance test. Fade to front Balance to right, Make sure no sound is coming out of other speakers. Now balance to Left Front, check that sound only comes out of the left front speaker. Now the rear the same way.

If at any stage you hear sound comming from speakers other than the one your testing, there is a polarity issue.

You should not have the "Party Mode" on.

Now turn on/up the Sub. Is it OK?

ChipG

 

[prplegophr]

Ok, did the test. No sound coming from speakers other than the one selected. But still crappy crappy sound.

Swapped polarities one at a time. Drove 50 miles. Parked it for two hours. Tried it again... so far so good. Let's give it 24 hours and see what happens eh?

Crossing my fingers...

 

[axxman]

Hi Chip,

Getting closer to starting my install, I will bringing my car up from FL in a couple weeks, I wanted to ask if you considered going without the audio control and just taking the line level inputs strait to the XD 700, did you just want to have more control?

 

[ChipG]

Straight into amp

You certainly can go straight into the amp, I think you need a JL line level adapter. However, The factory head unit is equalized to work specifically with the speakers that came in your car. You may find that you can't tell a difference.
The reason I chose the LCQ-1 is it's ability to correct this factory equalization and restore the bass roll off. Bass roll off....As you turn up the volume on the factory H/U, at some point, the bass tapers off. This is to prevent distortion in the factory speakers. They can't handle the bass. The LCQ-1 has a bass restoration circuit. Oh and I think the LCQ-1 is the least expensive way to do this.

ChipG

 

[axxman]

Hi Chip,

Thanks for the reply, I have been reading about installs of the XD700/5 and it does indeed take line level inputs, actually, it is supposed to be one of the best at this, JL audio has some RCA cables with connectors on one end designed for this.
I am hoping to use these:

to get the signal from the head unit to the amp. I have an LC6i I can throw in if necessary, but I want to keep things as simple as possible and minimize the possibility of noise in the system. Sounds like I will need to have something to combat that bass rolloff so I probably will end up with the LC6i in there at some point.

Thanks again.

 

[ChipG]

Latest Work

I've had a couple threads going on and off about this audio install and all of the stalled with this issue. The Dash speaker grills and what to do with them when installing my JL C5 3 way component speakers. Well, as it happens, My local stereo shop recently hired a famous installer called the Fishman. If your a stereo fanatic, you have probably heard of him. I asked him for some advice and...Here are the new speaker grills for the dash mounted mids and tweeter pods.

This is the Jig to cut out the hole for the new grill

and the resultant grill install

another

and the tweeter pod

I hope toget these wired up this weekend

 

[axxman]

looks great,
the dash speakers are tough because that plate has that bend in it.


I finally got my rear door speakers in yesterday, I ended up with Polkaudio dxi 650s dynamatted the doors at the same time, I didnt go crazy with it, just the big surface areas. it made a big difference. I got my 9 conductor wire and I am working on the harness to carry the signal to the amp then back to the head unit connector. broke a few of the white plastic pins, so gotta order more. no photos cuz there really isnt anything to see.

 

[gamerc]

Where is the Fishman working in NoVa?

 

[ChipG]

Work today & Fishman

FYI. The "Fishman" is currently working at "Electronic Plus" on Hwy 28 North
a block up from Manassas Drive intersection. Google him if you don't know who he is.

Ran new wire for the front stage 3 way components to the crossovers under the drivers seat. The Crossovers are on a platform that stands over the heating duct and is mounted to the carpet with industrial velcro. This is so I can pull it out for adjustments, otherwise I'd have to remove the seat.

Covered the masonite w/ a piece of frosted plexi for looks

Here are the Mids and Tweets with there mounting brackets. Drivers side is very different from the passenger side.

Tweeter shown with new dash speaker grill

 

[axxman]

looks almost factory.

Broke down and ordered my JL Audio XD 700/5, I guess it's about time I get my own thread.

 

[ChipG]

Final

Got up this morning and finished the installation of the JL Audio C5 3 way component speakers in the front stage of my 2011 T4R. The sound is amazing. The stage is up at face level rather than down at my waist. Very clear but, not harsh tweeters and mids. I still need to get used to it and do some tuning. I wish the 4runner had a decent tweeter location (A pilar). Even though I feel I did a good job of creating these tweeter mounts, I don't like the non-stock look.
The crossover install worked out great. I left enough slack in the leads so that you can reach under the seat and pull it out to make changes to the settings.

Crossover Board w/ Wire Loom

New JL C5 Mid Bass 6.75" in door. Running wire thru the Door's rubber tube really wasn't all that bad.

New JL C5 Mid in the stock dash location & Tweeter in aluminum pod.

 

[axxman]

Looks fantastic Chip, I have been busy too, I just need to get a hold of speaker adaptors for the front doors so I can get those in.