2011 Audio install

[ChipG]

This is going to take a while so I'll lay out what I'm doing and try to show some of the work involved etc.

I plan to use the standard SR5 head unit and add new speakers, amp, signal processor and subwoofer. I started with the sound deadening today and over the next couple weeks will try to continue the thread as it unfolds.
There is very little accurate info on the 2011 T4R, even Crutchfield has incorrect speaker sizes listed and they're usually pretty accurate. There are no Build Logs on the web regarding audio install in a 2010 or 2011 T4R. Most guys seem to have shops do the work and I've priced some installation and decided to take this on.

On removing the door panel for the first time I found the adhesive between the safety bar and outer skin was seperated in 4 places and the speaker adapters I have are wrong. I need a 6 x 9 to 6.5" round.
I went ahead and installed Raamat onto the outer door skin and
sealed the inner door openings with sheet metal before applying more Raamat to the inner door panel.

Brand new untouched door

First layer of Raamat going in, the bar shown and the outer door skin
were seperated, the dabs of adhesive were all broken adding to the vibration

Inside panel done

Door panel doodad to be removed, This is the location of my cross-overs and doesn't fit
with the sheet metal over the door opening

The difference in the door is like Boing to Thudd. I've got 4 more doors to do. Then I'll install the speakers.

 

[offroadingatc]

Fantastic, I've been waiting for a good write up on this!

 

[ChipG]

Tomorrow

I only got one door done today (drivers), I'm gonna try to get the passenger door done tomorrow. I made some basic templates of the door holes to save some time. It took me about 2.5 hours to do this one but, part was figuring it all out. Next one should go a bit quicker.

 

[FactoryRide]

I've got a system planned out for the very near future also. I just sent an email to Powerbass looking for some air space requirements.

The Plan:
1 - Powerbass Xtreme 3XL 12"
1 - Hifonics HFi2500D
1 - Custom Built and tuned box (ported)
Stinger Wires, probably some 0 or 4 gauge

All wired at 2ohms
Also getting a 100sq. ft. of FatMat sound deadening (Going to get quoted on install cost, but may end up doing it myself)

Door speakers will happen later on down the road when the JBL's go out.

 

[ChipG]

Passenger door done

Just a couple notes on the front doors. The passenger, like the drivers side had the adhesive between the safety bar and outter door skin cracked apart. Just seems a little odd to me.
I failed to show the installation of "Ensolite" foam behind the speaker locations. This is supposed to help the sound quality....I doubt I'll notice the difference but, the audio gurus recomend it.
I found that the rounded end of a screwdriver is a great tool for mashing this deadener into all the tight corners.
Both doors now make a completely different sound on closing.
I also installed the power (to amp) connection. It is not run through the firewall yet but, I ran it across the firewall to the passenger side where it will pass thru the factory grommet. Maybe next weekend.

View thru speaker hole

Close up of foam in door - only behind speaker location

I drilled a hole thru the back of the positive terminal cover for the
4 gauge wire to exit

fuse location, just behind the fuse box on the fenderwell

Location of Audio Control LCQ-1 signal processor, this unit is small
and doesn't affect the seat when down or folded forward.
The amp is a little too big to fit here without modifying the seat bottom

 

[terra4r]

awesome man keep it coming.

 

[MeBe4running]

The difference in the door is like Boing to Thudd. I've got 4 more doors to do. Then I'll install the speakers.

So you mean that "tin can" sound has gone when you close your doors? I would love to find a solution to "deafen" that sound. :hatsoff:

Great write up, thanks for sharing!

 

[lowrange44]

Great write-up and pics. Thanks! Are you planning to apply sound deadening material to the floor and roof?

 

[ChipG]

Floor & Roof

I don't think I'll be covering the floor & roof. I have known since the first time I opened the door, that the sound was all wrong. I will say that even with the stock speakers still installed, the added bass is obvious. And I kinda giggle when I hear the door close.
The Raamat & Ensolite cost me $130. This is enough to do all 5 doors. Not alot of money for a great improvement.
PS....I don't know if the Limited 4Runner has more factory deadening than the SR5

 

[Johnny Utah]

Hey Chip. this looks pretty sweet. Keep up the good work and post more pics when you get more of it done.

 

[ChipG]

Speaker adapters

I build lots of stuff, I have a garage full of tools but, if there is an easier way to do something, I give it a shot. So, I've been trying to find speaker adapters for the 5th gen, that I can get now, not in 3 weeks. Allready sent a set back to Crutchfield that were wrong.
Any how, guess I gotta make them. Unless someone knows "Specifically" a manufacturer, part number etc. for 5th gen 6 X 9 to 6.5" speaker adapters.

Otherwise, Next installment, proper MDF speaker adapter construction.

Maybe sunday night

 

[Foques]

it took us 30 minutes to fab all the spacers we needed.

 

[ChipG]

30 minutes

Uh........Great

 

[FactoryRide]

Harper 7 did this with his when he eDeaded his rig. Not sure if he fabbed them himself or bought em somewhere.

heres the link.

https://picasaweb.google.com/110764526188420500909/EDeadSoundDeadeningInTheDoors#5549211253396145362

 

[harper7]

I just made my own speaker adapters out of .063" T6 aluminum sheet and painted them black and sealed them.As always I made a template out of cardboard first to get the shape down.

OP....when you stated up above "On removing the door panel for the first time I found the adhesive between the safety bar and outer skin was seperated in 4 places".
They are supposed to be like that as no doors are waterproof and those are there so water can drain ,rather then sit and possibly cause corrosion. All doors from every make/model I've seen are like that and have the drain holes at the bottom too. They drain outside of the main door seals.

 

[ChipG]

Speaker adapters

I picked up a quarter sheet of MDF this evening to make my adapters. I plan to cut one, perfect it, then copy it with the router. The original speakers stick out about an inch so will mine.
Unfortunatly, Im going out of town saturday but hope to have some time Sunday to work on it.
They will be sealed against moisture and I may add an angle to raise the stage

 

[ChipG]

Adapter construction

Got home from Shepherdstown, WV today and got into a bit of woodworking.
I started by removing the door panel, a speaker and making a template from poster board. Cut out the first adapter to a basic shape with the jig saw, then took it to the door for some mark up (tuning). Trimmed a little here & there and did some sanding.

Once it looked good I double face taped it to another piece of 3/4" MDF and routed a copy. I also trimed the mounting ears 1/8" to clear the plastic screw inserts in the door. Without doing this, the adapters would not sit flush and seal to the door.

I then sealed them with "Wood Hardener", This is a clear liquid like thinner that absorbs into the MDF and makes it moisture resistant. MDF soaks up allot of this stuf.

Finally, I screwed the speakers to the adapters using socket head screws. Fewer thieves carry around a set of hex keys.

The speakers are Polk MMC6500 Components from my '07 T4R.
The tweeter mounts are another story.

 

[BFLAN]

Those look great!!!! You should keep that blank and sell those on the forum. Absolutely no way that anyone could make one nicer, good work!!!

 

[Foques]

ehh.. nevermind..

 

[ChipG]

More goes in...

I had no other obligations this weekend, other than leaves so, Install some more. Eventually I'll actually hear the results.

I got the JL 700/5 and Audio Control LCQ-1 installed, ran the RCA leads from the processor to the amp, I also ran the "9 wire" from the processor to the dash. Completed the running of the power from the battery thru the dash to the amp. Installed the ground wires, and finally finished the rear door deadening and speakers.

Stand-offs for the amp. These lift it above the heater duct.

JL Audio 700/5 under front passenger seat. Note that there is a perfect routing for the power lead from the battery down the door sill to this location.

Super pain in the ass. Trying to slip the 4 gauge thru the grommet.

Making up the ground lead & reaming the terminal to fit seat bolt.

Audio Control LCQ-1 under rear seat.

New speaker installed with 3/4" MDF adapter. I added the panel deadener to the outer skin of the door only. I don't need to add any additional bass to the rear fill.

Next chance I get I'll be connecting everything to the head unit. All for now.