This is my girlfriends vehicle. Not mine. She told me how she hates her headlights and after driving it, yes. I agree. They are crap for what other vehicles out there have. Unfortunately, slapping an HID kit in that side mounted projector does not do much difference. I had no idea they made halogen specific projectors. Incredibly disappointing Toyota. Fortunately there is a solution. But it's not a cheap one. If you're wondering, I spent about $650 so far. Not including paint or small/cheap stuff.
eBay
IS350 Projectors - $75 for both
D2S/D4S Denso Pigtails - $18
The Retrofit Source
H11 HID 50W kit - $160
D4S 5500K Bulbs - $60 (Bought the H11 kit from them and she/I was not happy with the output. Couldn't return them at that point, so I just bit the bullet and bought the bulbs separate along with the denso D4S pigtails.
STi-R 3" clear lens with tuning kit - $50
White LED strips 2 x 16" - $60
White LED strips 2 x 3" - $22
Retrorubber Glue - $17 (To reseal headlights)
Koito Bi-Xenon Solenoid Pigtails - $15 (My eBay projectors only come with one solenoid pigtail)
9005 - 9005 High Beam Splitters - $5 (Going to have the Bi-Xenon and halogen high beams enabled at the same time)
Velcro Patches - $4 (For the ballasts)
Amazon
Left and Right TYC Headlight assemblies - $220
IS350 Projectors. They have side mounted bulb entrance just like the T4R OE projectors. Apparently depth is a problem.
And the cut-off is not bad either, but light dispersion is not very good. So I ordered the STi-R lens. Don't mind the crazy dogs.
I finally got the chance to disassemble a headlight. Only one I've gotten in so far is the right side. Don't mind the mess. I don't have a lot of room to work.
She wants her headlights painted to match her truck color. Magnetic Gray. Really cool name for a really boring color. The masked off area is where the white LEDs are going so I want that area to pop and I'm leaving the chrome. The chrome around the bezel will be Mag Gray
This was the output of the Halogen Projector with the 50w HID in there. So ugly.
I disassembled both the OE projector and the IS350 Projector. From now on I'm going to refer to them as the OE pros and IS pros instead of writing it out every time.
For the record, I did call The Retrofit Source about switching over to the IS pros and they said after disassembly and some cutting the holes should line up.
Here's OE pros open.
IS pros open
Comparison pic
Low and behold, The Retrofit Source was correct! To a certain extent. Here is a pic of the OE rear bowl on top of the IS front/lens portion. Notice the mid-top screw holes. Two line up perfectly! This should be easier than I thought. The two very top screw holes are for mounting inside the headlight assembly. The mid-bottom two screw holes will need to be drilled accordingly. The very bottom screw hole is the third hole for mounting in the headlight assembly.
Here is another angle of the OE rear bowl on top of the IS front/lens portion. You can see some trimming will need to be done. A dremel should do the trick.
This is as far as I've gotten. I'm going to paint the headlights today and maybe get the OE pro aligned in my garage for when I need to line up the new projector. I have an idea of how I'm going to make sure I use the same spot and it doesn't move. I hope it works. It should but I tend to be very unlucky.
If any of y'all have ideas, let me know. I'm open to suggestions. AND criticisms!
Thanks for looking!
To be continued...
eBay
IS350 Projectors - $75 for both
D2S/D4S Denso Pigtails - $18
The Retrofit Source
H11 HID 50W kit - $160
D4S 5500K Bulbs - $60 (Bought the H11 kit from them and she/I was not happy with the output. Couldn't return them at that point, so I just bit the bullet and bought the bulbs separate along with the denso D4S pigtails.
STi-R 3" clear lens with tuning kit - $50
White LED strips 2 x 16" - $60
White LED strips 2 x 3" - $22
Retrorubber Glue - $17 (To reseal headlights)
Koito Bi-Xenon Solenoid Pigtails - $15 (My eBay projectors only come with one solenoid pigtail)
9005 - 9005 High Beam Splitters - $5 (Going to have the Bi-Xenon and halogen high beams enabled at the same time)
Velcro Patches - $4 (For the ballasts)
Amazon
Left and Right TYC Headlight assemblies - $220
IS350 Projectors. They have side mounted bulb entrance just like the T4R OE projectors. Apparently depth is a problem.
And the cut-off is not bad either, but light dispersion is not very good. So I ordered the STi-R lens. Don't mind the crazy dogs.
I finally got the chance to disassemble a headlight. Only one I've gotten in so far is the right side. Don't mind the mess. I don't have a lot of room to work.
She wants her headlights painted to match her truck color. Magnetic Gray. Really cool name for a really boring color. The masked off area is where the white LEDs are going so I want that area to pop and I'm leaving the chrome. The chrome around the bezel will be Mag Gray
This was the output of the Halogen Projector with the 50w HID in there. So ugly.
I disassembled both the OE projector and the IS350 Projector. From now on I'm going to refer to them as the OE pros and IS pros instead of writing it out every time.
For the record, I did call The Retrofit Source about switching over to the IS pros and they said after disassembly and some cutting the holes should line up.
Here's OE pros open.
IS pros open
Comparison pic
Low and behold, The Retrofit Source was correct! To a certain extent. Here is a pic of the OE rear bowl on top of the IS front/lens portion. Notice the mid-top screw holes. Two line up perfectly! This should be easier than I thought. The two very top screw holes are for mounting inside the headlight assembly. The mid-bottom two screw holes will need to be drilled accordingly. The very bottom screw hole is the third hole for mounting in the headlight assembly.
Here is another angle of the OE rear bowl on top of the IS front/lens portion. You can see some trimming will need to be done. A dremel should do the trick.
This is as far as I've gotten. I'm going to paint the headlights today and maybe get the OE pro aligned in my garage for when I need to line up the new projector. I have an idea of how I'm going to make sure I use the same spot and it doesn't move. I hope it works. It should but I tend to be very unlucky.
If any of y'all have ideas, let me know. I'm open to suggestions. AND criticisms!
Thanks for looking!
To be continued...
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