Hello 5th Gen Forum
Hope you can help :help: me out with my 2016 SR5 4x4.
I have the dreaded Power Back Window problem. It sticks. Window won’t go all the way down. Sticks at half way. Then when closing, it bumps the rubber strip at the top and jam protection kicks in sending it 4 inches back down again. Happens every time.
By jiggling the power back window switch or turning the key in the rear hatch lock, I can gently nudge the window up until it’s fully closed, but the rear wiper, washer, heated back screen don’t work.
All started a month ago when we had a cold spell here in London, England, and the battery ran flat. I couldn’t get it to fully charge in the icy conditions outdoors (-5 Centigrade), so I disconnected the battery and brought it inside to charge in a warm place. Battery is fine now, but Rear Hatch is not!
Prior to this battery disconnect, I hadn’t used the back window much. Maybe a couple of times a year. But I used the Wiper/ Washer/ Heated Rear Screen all the time.
Rear Wiper/ Rear Washer/ Heated Rear Screen all not working - as if the back window is not fully closed. I’ve checked the Rear Wiper, it’s properly seated in the recess plastic bracket.
I’ve checked the window lock button on the driver’s door. It’s off. All the other windows operate normally and auto open and close all the way down and all the way up.
I’ve tried the ‘normalize’ procedure shown on page 150 of the Owner’s Manual, (Close window & hold switch up for extra 6 seconds/ Open window & hold switch down for extra 2 seconds/ Close window and hold switch up for extra 2 seconds) but this won’t work because the window won’t fully close, and if jiggled close, still won’t fully open.
I’ve tried the re-initialize process procedure for when the battery runs flat or is disconnected. This works fine on the 4 side windows, but not on the back window as it won’t fully open or fully close!
I’ve taken off the rear door interior trim and cleaned the two channels and two white plastic wheels the screen runs up & down on. I’ve cleaned the cables and their guide-wheels and given them a couple of drops of oil. I’ve cleaned the crud out of the bottom of the door and made sure the drain holes are clear. I’ve checked the regulator and channels and motor and wheels for rust, and there is some, but nothing has rusted through or jammed. I’ve checked all the wiring for damage (none found), and re-attached a couple of cable ties that were missing. And I’ve cleaned the rubber channels and seals all around the back window, plus liberally sprayed silicone oil into the channels - no obstructions found, channels now nicely lubricated.
And today I’ve discovered that if, when the window is already down 4 inches from the first anti-jam bump, I hold the window down and turn the back door key right in the lock (to raise the window), the anti-jam protection kicks in again and the window instead lowers another 4 inches. Once more and it lowers all the way down. Then, using the power back window switch (or the back door key) to close, the window goes all the way up until it reaches the top rubber strip when it once again bumps down 4 inches due to anti-jam!
All very frustrating. I’ve run out of ideas.
One further complication is that I don’t even have a Dealer option as I imported my 4Runner to England in 2018, and as it’s not a UK or even European Toyota model, the Dealer network here in England doesn’t support the 4Runner!
Long post - long shot!
Can anyone help :help:? All advice gratefully accepted. You are my only remaining hope!
Cheers, David H
Hope you can help :help: me out with my 2016 SR5 4x4.
I have the dreaded Power Back Window problem. It sticks. Window won’t go all the way down. Sticks at half way. Then when closing, it bumps the rubber strip at the top and jam protection kicks in sending it 4 inches back down again. Happens every time.
By jiggling the power back window switch or turning the key in the rear hatch lock, I can gently nudge the window up until it’s fully closed, but the rear wiper, washer, heated back screen don’t work.
All started a month ago when we had a cold spell here in London, England, and the battery ran flat. I couldn’t get it to fully charge in the icy conditions outdoors (-5 Centigrade), so I disconnected the battery and brought it inside to charge in a warm place. Battery is fine now, but Rear Hatch is not!
Prior to this battery disconnect, I hadn’t used the back window much. Maybe a couple of times a year. But I used the Wiper/ Washer/ Heated Rear Screen all the time.
Rear Wiper/ Rear Washer/ Heated Rear Screen all not working - as if the back window is not fully closed. I’ve checked the Rear Wiper, it’s properly seated in the recess plastic bracket.
I’ve checked the window lock button on the driver’s door. It’s off. All the other windows operate normally and auto open and close all the way down and all the way up.
I’ve tried the ‘normalize’ procedure shown on page 150 of the Owner’s Manual, (Close window & hold switch up for extra 6 seconds/ Open window & hold switch down for extra 2 seconds/ Close window and hold switch up for extra 2 seconds) but this won’t work because the window won’t fully close, and if jiggled close, still won’t fully open.
I’ve tried the re-initialize process procedure for when the battery runs flat or is disconnected. This works fine on the 4 side windows, but not on the back window as it won’t fully open or fully close!
I’ve taken off the rear door interior trim and cleaned the two channels and two white plastic wheels the screen runs up & down on. I’ve cleaned the cables and their guide-wheels and given them a couple of drops of oil. I’ve cleaned the crud out of the bottom of the door and made sure the drain holes are clear. I’ve checked the regulator and channels and motor and wheels for rust, and there is some, but nothing has rusted through or jammed. I’ve checked all the wiring for damage (none found), and re-attached a couple of cable ties that were missing. And I’ve cleaned the rubber channels and seals all around the back window, plus liberally sprayed silicone oil into the channels - no obstructions found, channels now nicely lubricated.
And today I’ve discovered that if, when the window is already down 4 inches from the first anti-jam bump, I hold the window down and turn the back door key right in the lock (to raise the window), the anti-jam protection kicks in again and the window instead lowers another 4 inches. Once more and it lowers all the way down. Then, using the power back window switch (or the back door key) to close, the window goes all the way up until it reaches the top rubber strip when it once again bumps down 4 inches due to anti-jam!
All very frustrating. I’ve run out of ideas.
One further complication is that I don’t even have a Dealer option as I imported my 4Runner to England in 2018, and as it’s not a UK or even European Toyota model, the Dealer network here in England doesn’t support the 4Runner!
Long post - long shot!
Can anyone help :help:? All advice gratefully accepted. You are my only remaining hope!
Cheers, David H
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