22R-E Running hot!

[Griswald]

Morning guys,

89 Runner, 22Re rebuilt about 30K miles ago.

Noticed it running a little hot last week...checked coolant, which was low, so I added some and it immediately fixed the issue and went back down to normal.

Then yesterday it started running hot again, so I turned around, and drove it back home (about 1-2 miles). It started to dip into the red minutes before I was able to make it home and cut the engine. I added more coolant. This time, it didn't seem to fix the problem.

Then I realized that I had put 5w30 in it when I changed the oil about 3 weeks ago. :wtf: I should have used 10w40...maybe this is why it was running hot!? I drained out the oil (did not look weird or milky) and put in 10w40 yesterday. Started it and drove around the block to give it a test - I pulled up to my neighbors to help him move an AC unit...truck idling in street. When I came out, the coolant was leaking out and temp gauge running well into the red! I zipped back into my driveway two blocks away and cut the engine. The radiator hose was blowing hot air back into the coolant bin, so it was bubbling.

I let the engine cool for a couple hours. Then I drove it up to a reliable engine mechanic about a mile away who's worked on it in the past. Almost hit the red on the 4 min drive up there.

obviously, my guess is thermostat, or water pump. but My bigger concern is possible engine damage. It felt and sounded totally normal last night on the quick drive up to drop it off.

I know it's hard to say but wondering,
Have any of you had a 22RE get into the red briefly and been okay engine-wise?

thanks

 

[junkyardbiker]

Living in Florida mine has gotten up to the red a few times, mostly when im running on the highway in traffic without clean airflow and mine dont seem to care. I dont think Ive ever run it to the point of boiling but these are sturdy little motors that can take a lot. If you are concerned do a compression check or send off a coolant and oil sample for analysis. To fix it, Ive pulled every hose on the motor and pushed garden hose pressure through every orifice I could, then filled it up with plain water and a handfull of powdered laundry detergent. Trick I read about that can help remove deposits and "polish" the system. I then drained it and did a prestone flush kit through it and then I filled it with plain green sulfate free coolant. I also have removed my A/C so I dont have the condensor in front of my radiator either. Its been doing a lot better so far this summer.

 

[Reluctanse]

depends on how hot it actually got... the factory gauges are less than useful for determining that unfortunately.... good luck hopefully you don't need a new headgasket!

 

[Griswald]

BLEW A HEAD GASKET! Compression problems.
Going to need a new 22R-E.

I'll start a new thread here shortly

 

[Bad_Vision]

Always use OEM head gaskets and thermostats. It is s known issue that the aftermarket gaskets and thermostats are no good. Sorry for your loss but why not just fix it instead of getting a new engine.


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[goatfarmer]

Similar issue, except the temp. gauge was fluctuating between extreme hot to normal during the 40 miles it took to return home. Posted concerns with forum and flyinhawaiian01 suggested possible sticky thermostat but before replacing recommended I try 'burping' the system. Following the instructions in his comment. either the thermo stopped sticking, or there was an air bubble in the system; regardless, the 90 T4r is running much better for now, no stalling while waiting for the temperature gauge to reach normal range, nor is the engine overheating?
Posting instructions:

Could be the thermostat sticking, or it could be a huge bubble of air caught in the system. Rather than pulling the thermo out first, try bleeding the system, its the easiest fix right now. If while you're driving, you turn the heater on to full heat and hear a gurgling sound, you definitely have an air pocket.

Make sure to get that front end up as high as possible to burp the system! I put my truck up on ramps while parking on an inclined driveway, and use a step ladder to get to the radiator! With engine cold, turn heater on full heat, open radiator cap, start engine and bring up to full operating temp. This may take as long as 10 minutes +, so be prepared to wait a while.

When you see the water in the radiator neck start to move fast, it should be up to temp and the thermostat has finally popped open. Refill with antifreeze to keep it topped up while its running. Yep, it can get messy if you spill it and it gets into the fan.

Put the cap back on, check it daily for a week or two, making sure its not losing fluid.

If it continues to creep up in temp and you don't lose any water, its definitely the thermostat. I believe the v6 is a pain to get to the thermo, but its necessary if you don't want to pop head gaskets, or worse, blow the engine up by overheating it bad!

ade. Found oil was not an issue, difference in oil pressure minimal. Checked coolant, slightly low but topped off. Member suggested burping the cooling system.

 

[Griswald]

Always use OEM head gaskets and thermostats. It is s known issue that the aftermarket gaskets and thermostats are no good. Sorry for your loss but why not just fix it instead of getting a new engine.


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I would fix it but I'm having compression issues. One of the cyliders is mis-firing. It's toast. It was rebuilt 30K miles ago by previous owner...my guess is he could have done a better job.

now the question is - where do I find a new engine?

 

[nevada]

I would fix it but I'm having compression issues. One of the cyliders is mis-firing. It's toast. It was rebuilt 30K miles ago by previous owner...my guess is he could have done a better job.

now the question is - where do I find a new engine?

that could all be related to a bad HG.

further tests would needed to be done.

 

[Bad_Vision]

that could all be related to a bad HG.

further tests would needed to be done.

I agree don't give up on it yet, if you do I suggest a VW diesel swap or a 5vze swap.


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[junkyardbiker]

Look into the Mercedes diesel swap too! Full mechanical motor, adapter plates are readily available and youle have more power than you could ever need to push a 1st gen around. Ive been dreaming of that swap myself lol.

 

[Reluctanse]

Have the head checked for cracks, surface if its warped, replace the valve seals, new head gasket and bolts, g2g. Unlikely the damage is any further than that, shouldn't need a whole new engine. Unless it was knocking and had lots of water in the oil for extended periods, the bottom end is probably fine.

Oh and +1 on OEM gaskets and thermostat. Non OEM thermostats specifically suck!