2nd gen fluctuating idle.

[Buxom]

Alright, so I redid my valve cover gaskets, my intake manifold gasket, and my throttle body gasket, but now I'm getting a fluctuating idle that doesn't affect performance on the road. I drove it to work today and it was fine, minus the idle.

I initially thought it was fuel in the oil from my previous string of vacuum hose mishaps, so I changed the oil. It normally takes 4.4 qts, but when I checked the level, it was no bueno.

I'm not worried if it's a head, I'm lucky enough to work with a mechanic who's been at this shop since 76, he's got a lot of connections and could have them resurfaced for me in a day or 2 for probably less than $100.

I'm just wondering if it's anything smaller than a head that I could take care of now before it gets too bad.

If not, my family has enough cars for me to make it to work through doing a head job. If it's a head, should I just rebuild the whole motor, or?

I don't know, let me know your opinions, I really wanna keep this truck, especially because it'll be an antique and won't need smog in 2018. It's the 3.0 auto, hasn't overheated, and hasn't lost any power on the road.

 

[89FourRunner]

Check to ensure that the pcv valve hose that is in the shape of a U did not crack when moving the plenum, they are really fragile, happens often.

Ensure a leak did not develop down stream of the air meter, spray some starter fluid around all vac lines. It sounds like a vacuum issue.

 

[Buxom]

Another reason I want to keep it is because I eventually plan on doing a Cressida 5M 2.8 swap, otherwise I'd rebuild the 3VZE, put a bigger head, aluminum valve covers, and paint it to look pretty.

 

[Buxom]

I had to replace the PCV hose because the previous owners poured silicone all over it when it busted in half.

 

[Buxom]

OK. So the red thing with all the lines connected to it is bad I think. When I disconnect the line from the manifold, the idle goes up to a steady 1000. When I reconnect it, it drops and fluctuates between 500-800.