3.0 Timing Belt Remove Install

[bluewavecaptain]

But....how did you know it failed.......:ybrick: LOL!

 

[Diverse4runner]

Looks like a meat grinder with all that rubber going down in there. LOL

 

[helo-mech]

Finally had some time this evening. Take a look at the rubber that was around the crank behind the main seal. Got all that cleaned out with new seal installed and a little more. I might have this thing back together for Classics 2013.

Note: The timing marks on the LH Cam Pulley and crank pulley are off. I was doing some test fitting when this bottom picture was taken. As it sits now the belt is back off. Heck none of the cam pulley bolts are even torqued yet.

 

[helo-mech]

How soon after the belt failed you did you realize it happened? What made you realize that it had snapped? Finally, I have been thinking about replacing my belt and the water pump at the same time. All the west coast guys here must have a different opinion regarding water pump failures than those of us in water rich areas. I haven't inspected the belt, but already ordered a water pump. It only costs $50.

Mine was pretty obvious. I first realized something was up when my throttle response was off and my temp gauge started to climb. Shortly after I heard a nice little "pop" and what sounded like a large bag of plastic "BBs" hitting my undercarriage followed by the truck shutting off. Once I coasted as far as I could out of the way, I walked back to the scene and found lots of little pieces of rubber on the ground and I spotted a few holes in my lower timing cover.

Short answer is it will just shut off. Hopefully you don't get the "meat grinder" effect that I got. Sometimes you get a really weird running engine for a very short period followed by the shutting off.

I'm changing the water pump, No. 1 idler, No 2 idler with water pipe, main seal, and the belt. I'm not doing the oil pump and I hope it doesn't come back to bite me. If anyone has some comments to make to that statement, please make them now.

 

[mikebontoft]

helo have you bought the parts yet? I ordered a timing component kit and a water pump from rockauto. also got plugs and wires and bottom end bearings all for about $210

actually do you NOT have an oil cooler? i ordered the wrong water pump and I still have it unopened... and i want to get rid of it.

oil pump... don't worry about it i didn't replace mine either. and you have a spring tensioner so no worries .

theres two dots on the crank, get the right one. and its way easier without the radiator but not necessary. I got mine together and ended up 180* out. had it running in about an hour.

 

[bluewavecaptain]

I don't mean to question your work, but you might want to realign your timing. See that slack on the water pump side? When the engine begins to rotate, that slack will take up before the cams turn and you will probably be a tooth off on the cam timing. The chilton manual says to rotate the engine two times after installing the belt and then re-check the timing marks. When I did that on my engine, the crack gear was lined up, but the cams were about a tooth off.

So, to take up that slack, set the cams dead on, but rotate the crank about one tooth counter clockwise. Then, install your belt, and slowly rotate the crack to TDC until the slack is taken up. You will probably have to play with it a bit and might have to go 2 teeth on the crank. Just a suggestion.

 

[mikebontoft]

ah glad you caught that. always get it as tight as you can on the opposite side of the tensioner.

oh and im so glad i just now noticed your third picture that shows you have everything. Fine I didnt want to help you anyway

 

[helo-mech]

I don't mean to question your work,

By all means man. That's why we have these boards. Got to look out for each other. In this case I was only doing a dry run as I had never done a timing belt before. If you'll notice the crank pulley and all is not even installed and as mentioned the cam gears where not even torqued. I was just looking to see how it all lined up.

oh and im so glad i just now noticed your third picture that shows you have everything. Fine I didnt want to help you anyway

Yeah I had everything by that point. Just went through LC Engineering.

 

[helo-mech]

"ON THE ROAD AGAIN........"

Since there are numerous write-ups on the internet regarding the steps and the FSM is fairly clear on the steps to take, I decided not to go crazy with a huge write up as I did this. The only advice I will give is to use a chain wrench to hold the cam gears and the crank pulley vice locking a wrench in and turning the key. With a couple of breaker bars, it is not that difficult. It of course helps to have a buddy give you a hand.

Here are some pictures for future reference in the event that someone has a question about a certain part. Pictures are always helpful IMO.

 

[helo-mech]

More

 

[helo-mech]

Man it was nice to be able to drive her today. I even won me another Photo Game Challenge when I went to pick up my road bike.

 

[Footofgod]

As long as you don't sell her, you will be able to drive her to Classics 2013.

 

[helo-mech]

I'm still in negotiations regarding the ownership of my current rig. However, any sale would come with the stipulation that another rig would be purchased prior to a Bronco Roundup and a Wheeler's for the Wounded event that will be coming this spring.