3.4 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement (part#s n pics)

[LittleCaesar]

Definitely remove and reseal the half moons with FIPG. That is where mine was leaking.

A better shot of the half moons (semi circular plugs in Toyo dealer speak):
5vzfe leaky valve covers fixed (56k beware) - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums

 

[T4R2014]

Definitely remove and reseal the half moons with FIPG. That is where mine was leaking.

A better shot of the half moons (semi circular plugs in Toyo dealer speak):
5vzfe leaky valve covers fixed (56k beware) - Page 2 - YotaTech Forums

I'm quite certain that those and/or the cam plugs is where most of my leak is coming from. The steering rack area is covered in motor oil. If it's not that then it's the rear main.

 

[nvestor88]

How much is the total price of all the gaskets and related parts? Are they priced better online vs. dealer?

 

[LittleCaesar]

I'm quite certain that those and/or the cam plugs is where most of my leak is coming from. The steering rack area is covered in motor oil. If it's not that then it's the rear main.

Do the valve covers and see if that cures your ails. My two front ones were the culprit. Don't forget the PCV grommet as well as get a new seal for under the oil fill cap.

On a side note, I had no leaks until I ran the old Penn Ultra (SM I think) for about 7500 miles in it. It is a great cleaning oil but is on the thin side. If it is your rear main, consider switching to Platinum or a high mileage oil to see if it stops.

 

[T4R2014]

Do the valve covers and see if that cures your ails. My two front ones were the culprit. Don't forget the PCV grommet as well as get a new seal for under the oil fill cap.

On a side note, I had no leaks until I ran the old Penn Ultra (SM I think) for about 7500 miles in it. It is a great cleaning oil but is on the thin side. If it is your rear main, consider switching to Platinum or a high mileage oil to see if it stops.

I really started noticing drips on the driveway after my second run with Ultra, SM I believe too. They stopped selling Ultra so I will be going back to Platinum at the next change. I never get past 4k miles a year so I go by a yearly schedule. I'll remember to order the PCV+grommet too, they are well overdue. :doh:

Thanks!

 

[thirstyturtle]

Thanks for the great write-up! I just bought a 2000 and the owner included the valve cover gaskets he had bought and never got around to replacing.

My question is why do I have to replace all of those parts? I don't see why I can't just take it all apart, replace the valve cover gaskets, and reinstall. I understand that it would be nice to replace all those parts while I'm in there but at the end of the day it's the main gasket that is leaking, why go through all the effort and expense of replacing all of the other plugs and seals? I know that sounds a bit lazy but I'm worried if I try doing too much, I'll mess something up. Especially when it comes to using FIPG.

 

[thirstyturtle]

Also, I don't see what you used the "washer seals" for. I assume since there are 16 of them that they're for the valve cover bolts but I wasn't aware that they had these washer seals. Is that where they go?

 

[afg10000]

x2 thirstyturtle. I have the same questions. I've gots to get mine done soon on my '98. I'd also prefer to keep things as simple as possible. Mainly due to my below average mechanic abilities.

 

[thirstyturtle]

Well upon further investigation and asking a couple Toyota pals I've gathered that I really need to do the PCV valve and grommet and intake and throttle body gaskets at a minimum.

I understand the crush washers now, but why the cam plugs? Aren't they just metal that you apply FIPG to? Is it so you don't have to clean the old ones?

I think I'm starting to get it...

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

The cam seals are rubber coated (at least the Toyota ones are) I got new ones when I did mine and those seals kind of " crushed" into the space they go in. I wouldn't reuse them. I also put a super light coat of FIPG around the outside as it looks like the old ones had some one there (probably to fill the tiny gap between the upper cap and the lower part - the head) I would probably say your bolt washers may be ok if they still fit the bolt snugly and aren't dry-rotted or too crushed. I put a little blue Loctite on my with the proper torque (3 or 4 ft lbs) The half moons just need to be cleaned up and FIPG'd (make sure to clean the head too) Also, when removing the half moons, pull straight up. I started to jiggle side to side and they weren't coming out then I realized they had little edges on the sides which if I forced it more, I may have broken the half moons (or the heads - YIKES). Good luck!

 

[krenaud33]

but why the cam plugs? Aren't they just metal that you apply FIPG to? Is it so you don't have to clean the old ones?

x2, curious to know

 

[amalik]

Turtle and the others,

I did my VCG's with a friend a little while back. A new PCV Valve/Grommet along the way is fine, but we didn't put on a new TB or Intake gasket -- nor did we touch cam seals. We did clean up the TB with TB cleaner and cleaned the valve cover edges themselves, but you can re-use the parts you are asking about.

Not to say it wouldn't be awesome to hit all that stuff at once, but in terms of sheer requirements, all those parts can be re-used unless you find them to be damaged during the process.

This reminds me of when people say you must do a thermostat if you are replacing a radiator. No, you don't have to... but yes it's easier since you're "already" there.

 

[thirstyturtle]

The cam seals are rubber coated (at least the Toyota ones are) I got new ones when I did mine and those seals kind of " crushed" into the space they go in. I wouldn't reuse them. I also put a super light coat of FIPG around the outside as it looks like the old ones had some one there (probably to fill the tiny gap between the upper cap and the lower part - the head) I would probably say your bolt washers may be ok if they still fit the bolt snugly and aren't dry-rotted or too crushed. I put a little blue Loctite on my with the proper torque (3 or 4 ft lbs) The half moons just need to be cleaned up and FIPG'd (make sure to clean the head too) Also, when removing the half moons, pull straight up. I started to jiggle side to side and they weren't coming out then I realized they had little edges on the sides which if I forced it more, I may have broken the half moons (or the heads - YIKES). Good luck!

Thanks for all the information!

Follow-up questions:
For the cam seals, do they need to be removed in the process of switching the vc gasket? If they're crushed in place, as long as you don't have to remove them it doesn't seem like that big of a deal.

Honestly, after reading and re-reading 4 or 5 of these write-ups at this point, I'm pretty comfortable with the whole install. I finally see where all the pieces are, what they are, and how they're replaced. So, to that end, I'll probably end up replacing everything suggested (although not the half moons as I don't see the point since they're not a wear item IMO).

Seems like the most "difficult" things are all of the disassembly, keeping track of where everything goes back, and not breaking the brittle plastic pieces.

I'll have to buy a 1/4" in-lb torque wrench it looks like along with all the parts (minus the vc gaskets which I already have).

So what about the plenum gaskets? Some people say you must replace and others say no big deal, they don't need to be replaced.

 

[Pablom16]

Best instruction!!

Jon,
I've never done anything like this and I followed your instruction and pictures. It helped me a great deal!!! Thanks a bunch! I enjoy not smelling the burnt oil scent after driving down the street. Thanks again! Great write up!

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

Thanks for all the information!

Follow-up questions:
For the cam seals, do they need to be removed in the process of switching the vc gasket? If they're crushed in place, as long as you don't have to remove them it doesn't seem like that big of a deal.

Honestly, after reading and re-reading 4 or 5 of these write-ups at this point, I'm pretty comfortable with the whole install. I finally see where all the pieces are, what they are, and how they're replaced. So, to that end, I'll probably end up replacing everything suggested (although not the half moons as I don't see the point since they're not a wear item IMO).

Seems like the most "difficult" things are all of the disassembly, keeping track of where everything goes back, and not breaking the brittle plastic pieces.

I'll have to buy a 1/4" in-lb torque wrench it looks like along with all the parts (minus the vc gaskets which I already have).

So what about the plenum gaskets? Some people say you must replace and others say no big deal, they don't need to be replaced.

I'm pretty sure a lot of people's leaks, including mine, were coming from the rear of the heads. My camshaft seals were leaking.

Don't need to replace the half moons, just reseal them. Take the time to clean off all the old FIPG (that stuff can be somewhat of a pain)

Put pieces in bags and label them (upper manifold bolts, lower manifold bolts etc whatever easiest to remember)

As far as breaking the plastic pieces I had the most difficulty with that plastic cover on the wire harness that runs along the inside of both valve covers. Still broke it in several places. When I put it back together, I electric taped it. Also, really look at the hoses, give them a little squeeze, to see if there still "somewhat' pliable. The ends tend to crack and cause vac leaks. Actually, the only "leak" I had when I put it all together were the two coolant hoses that go to the IAC underneath the TB. I repositioned the clamp and it stopped, but I still didn't feel good about the seal so I bought another hose which was a molded hose from Toyota, which was the only kind of hose that would fit. I love NEW OEM parts!!

 

[thirstyturtle]

I just noticed that the front corner bolt area on my drivers side valve cover has been JB Welded and there's a tiny crack I can see extending out from it. Looks like I'll need a new VC for that side, hopefully I can find one at a junkyard.

 

[thirstyturtle]

I just noticed that the front corner bolt area on my drivers side valve cover has been JB Welded and there's a tiny crack I can see extending out from it. Looks like I'll need a new VC for that side, hopefully I can find one at a junkyard.

So I started looking for new valve covers online and it seems that they come with all of the necessary components already installed, what do you guys think?

Dorman 264-977 Valve Cover | Auto Parts Warehouse

It seems the the drivers side (the one I need) already has the 3 spark plug grommets, and maybe the PCV valve grommet installed as well. Does it look that way to you guys? This would save me a fair bit of trouble (on at least one side) as I wouldn't have to remove the old grommets or install the new ones.

EDIT: Scratch that, I don't think the time savings is worth the additional cost.

The local Pick-n-Pull has 4 3rd gen T4R's so I'll go soon and check them out, I'm sure at least one of them is the 5VZ-FE and has a driver's side valve cover in good shape.

Quick question: What tools do I need for getting the old cover off?
I don't want to take ALL my tools, I would plan on just my complete socket set, a couple different pliers and screwdrivers, and something to cut through hoses. I don't have to be careful getting the cover off the junked car, I can cut and smash my way through anything in the way haha.

 

[JRZEE2000TR4LTD]

So I started looking for new valve covers online and it seems that they come with all of the necessary components already installed, what do you guys think?

Dorman 264-977 Valve Cover | Auto Parts Warehouse

It seems the the drivers side (the one I need) already has the 3 spark plug grommets, and maybe the PCV valve grommet installed as well. Does it look that way to you guys? This would save me a fair bit of trouble (on at least one side) as I wouldn't have to remove the old grommets or install the new ones.

EDIT: Scratch that, I don't think the time savings is worth the additional cost.

The local Pick-n-Pull has 4 3rd gen T4R's so I'll go soon and check them out, I'm sure at least one of them is the 5VZ-FE and has a driver's side valve cover in good shape.

Quick question: What tools do I need for getting the old cover off?
I don't want to take ALL my tools, I would plan on just my complete socket set, a couple different pliers and screwdrivers, and something to cut through hoses. I don't have to be careful getting the cover off the junked car, I can cut and smash my way through anything in the way haha.

I would have to say that none of the seals are included on the valve cover. It's hard to tell from the picture, but I don't see any black around that hole and the hole itself looks too big. If that's the case then I would have to assume that the spark plug seals won't be included either. I guess you could call to verify.

As far as removing the spark plug seals, I removed all six in about 5 minutes. Just bend up the tab a little using a screwdriver at first to get it bent up a little then use a pair of pliers to bend it the rest of the way. Doesn't have to be bent up 90 degrees just enough to get to the seals (60 degrees) Then, using a screwdriver, just start prying on an angle, going around the seal from underneath the lip of the seal. It may not move at first, but it will start to pop up little by little then eventually come out. To reinstall, use a large socket or a piece of PVC pipe, and LIGHTLY tap it in, always watching the seal to make sure its going in straight. If it does start to get cocked, move your pipe or socket to lightly tap in the high side until its even again. If your lightly tapping and carefully watching the seal, it should never get cocked too much. Finally, bend the tab back down with a flat punch or a small hammer LIGHTLY.

 

[thirstyturtle]

I would have to say that none of the seals are included on the valve cover. It's hard to tell from the picture, but I don't see any black around that hole and the hole itself looks too big. If that's the case then I would have to assume that the spark plug seals won't be included either. I guess you could call to verify.

As far as removing the spark plug seals, I removed all six in about 5 minutes. Just bend up the tab a little using a screwdriver at first to get it bent up a little then use a pair of pliers to bend it the rest of the way. Doesn't have to be bent up 90 degrees just enough to get to the seals (60 degrees) Then, using a screwdriver, just start prying on an angle, going around the seal from underneath the lip of the seal. It may not move at first, but it will start to pop up little by little then eventually come out. To reinstall, use a large socket or a piece of PVC pipe, and LIGHTLY tap it in, always watching the seal to make sure its going in straight. If it does start to get cocked, move your pipe or socket to lightly tap in the high side until its even again. If your lightly tapping and carefully watching the seal, it should never get cocked too much. Finally, bend the tab back down with a flat punch or a small hammer LIGHTLY.

I appreciate the tips! I think regardless of whether or not it comes with the seals, I've just decided to save the money and order just the other parts. Although I do need to replace one of my valve covers as it is cracked; I plan on getting one from the local pick-n-pull though. Hopefully I get to tackle this in the next few weeks...is it strange that I'm sort of excited to get down and dirty for the first time with my new ride?

 

[kingin]

Great write up!!

Just did mines couple things to add I didn't pay attention to the torque specs with some being in pound per inch and others being pound per feet, lol lucky I caught that. Also disconnect battery so ecu can reset or you will have high idle when jobs done like I did and went crazy trying to find vacuum leak. lol also just use permatex copper spray on the intake manifold gasket love the stuff.