**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

[MENTION=145222]4rcybr[/MENTION]

That's about how mine looks, though I have more of a small section of the bottom of my fender plastic cut-out.
 
This look trimmed enough? Either way, seems like I've got my next project.

Thanks!

Here's some of mine. Biggest thing I can say is you may have to go higher on the pinch weld. You can see I was hitting mine all the way up top too. Took several BFH sessions and a little torch to heat it on a few spots too. Lol
Rear
eb1e1c05b9b3bd2940aed358f349fe89.jpg
cea47aab4408f8f43a9b138807187916.jpg


Front
266007d48867c32e359570722e80892e.jpg
f78866cfc4277c36a0a9823b2a157607.jpg
00c6b15b395dd1c8882755018c371157.jpg


Front bumper chopped for clearance of obstacles, not tires.
dcebb8d465ea260845e14c74dba403f3.jpg
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Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
You can either limit up-travel via bump-stop extensions or you an let the wheel well do it for you. Even with 33's at full wheel stuff I would rub/grab the fender plastic; It's about the same for me with the 35's at the moment (though they grab the factory mudflap in the back far worse than anything, there's a couple missing screws between the 33's and 35's pulling them out). The idea is to limit up-travel enough that on full compression the tire isn't getting jammed up by the body work.

If you have a friend with a lathe and a mill you can make your own BL (I went that route and had a buddy make me my 1.5" based on my design specs). But Roger Brown does good work also, I just happened to be able to get it done cheaper my way (I would have done it myself but I don't have a mill or a lathe :( )

Unfortunately, no family or friends in the area that can fabricate stuff. And I can't either, so purchased it is.


[MENTION=145222]4rcybr[/MENTION] forgot, the Bilsteins will work for a bit, but be prepared as the weight of trying to control 35's will ultimately be their demise.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

Thanks for the heads up. Presumably I wait for them to fail before I worry about that?

I'm thinking the bilstein 6112/5160 combo down the road, but I wasn't planning on it for the next couple years...


Here's some of mine. Biggest thing I can say is you may have to go higher on the pinch weld. You can see I was hitting mine all the way up top too. Took several BFH sessions and a little torch to heat it on a few spots too. Lol

Thanks for the pics. I'll come back to reference those when I work on this in the next few months.

Also, they remind me of why I don't live in Michigan anymore. Heh. 67 degrees outside right now where I am, and sunny.
 
Thanks for the heads up. Presumably I wait for them to fail before I worry about that?

I'm thinking the bilstein 6112/5160 combo down the road, but I wasn't planning on it for the next couple years...




Thanks for the pics. I'll come back to reference those when I work on this in the next few months.

Also, they remind me of why I don't live in Michigan anymore. Heh. 67 degrees outside right now where I am, and sunny.

Lol, we finally got some snow! Went wheeling with my buddy. Check out my build thread, 2.5' of fresh powder was fun.
I would assume the 6112 would handle things better, not sure on the 5160. I know I'll never buy another bilstein product again! Complete crap so far. Lol

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
I don't know what effect moving the axle would have, but I know I'd have to outsource that and it would be very expensive.

You already have the Metaltech lower links so all you would have to do is unthread the end an inch and reinstall them. This would keep 35's from stuffing near the rear door by pushing them back toward the middle of the wheel well giving your axle more range of movement.
 
Lol, we finally got some snow! Went wheeling with my buddy. Check out my build thread, 2.5' of fresh powder was fun.
I would assume the 6112 would handle things better, not sure on the 5160. I know I'll never buy another bilstein product again! Complete crap so far. Lol

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

So what would you recommend if not bilstein?

My brother lives in Michigan right now-when he was out for Thanksgiving we got him snow here in SoCal, before he'd had any back there.

You already have the Metaltech lower links so all you would have to do is unthread the end an inch and reinstall them. This would keep 35's from stuffing near the rear door by pushing them back toward the middle of the wheel well giving your axle more range of movement.

Hmm. I learn things here every time.

Presumably I'd do that in conjunction with the body lift?

Ideas, ideas...

Thanks!
 
So what would you recommend if not bilstein?

My brother lives in Michigan right now-when he was out for Thanksgiving we got him snow here in SoCal, before he'd had any back there.

In my first post on this thread I outlined that I really feel better quality, preferably rebuildable, is needed for the added mass. Fox, King, radflo, icon, boss, etc. 650# or 700# Springs in the front and 225# springs out back.
I have no experience with the 6120 series, so they could be worlds better, but for the price I'd go with one of the above mentioned. Quality proven.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
I think body lift a got a bad name from years ago when guys modified hockey pucks for their chevy trucks. For obvious reasons of stacked spacers, unsafe spacers. And a complete hack job this allowed movement and created issues of course. Movement equals breakage!
No lift means lower cog, yes, but then fitting tires poses an issue. As [MENTION=130999]Inv4drZm[/MENTION] said, if you put a 2" body lift and suspension lifted trucks side by side the suspension lifted truck will have a slightly higher cog because it moves everything up, whereas a body lift left the heavy drive train and frame below. The disadvantage now becomes that you didn't really improve ground clearance with the body lift, the tires do that, which would be on both trucks. A suspension lift on the other hand technically gives you more ground clearance, although the rear pumpkin is still in the same spot and only goes up with the tires too. Now, to add to this, usually with a lift a person puts on bigger tires, which usually requires moving the tires out too. This effectively makes your vehicle more stable as now it has a wider footprint. Kind of like if you stand with your feet together and someone pushes you, it's hard not to lean. Spread your legs out a little and it becomes much easier to resist that force and stand up tall.
With my truck being as tall as it is, and no sway bars, and remember I don't have better springs really either, just Tacoma and FJ coils, that I still don't feel like my truck is tippy. Yes it leans, but I never feel I'm in danger. I put it through some pretty hairy shit without issue or fear of tipping. I don't rock crawl, so I can't give an experienced opinion there, but I definitely get in some off camber spots in the woods and ditches!
So back to the body lift speech, if you put a quality lift on, that uses blocks as wide or wider than the bushings, heavier hardware to support it, torque it down properly and check later I believe you aren't hurting anything. Vehicle, cog, etc. Especially with our trucks and the lack of fender openings, and that damn rear door in the fender!, unless you are limiting travel, boooo [emoji107], you will hit and rub and have issues. Unless as stated, you move the rear axle back and trim the rear of the fender.
Ok, I rambled enough... [emoji3]

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.



So, can I add spacers to my suspension lift to gain some extra height? Like spidertrax, or some 1.5-2 inch spacers on my front coils and rear coils? How would that affect performance. I want to gain a little more height when I move up in tire size. (I don't think my adjustable coils could be spanned to lift the front much more given that it has to be uneven due to weight on drivers side? Or it'll throw my bilsteins off? I don't really know the settings. I'll have to take it somewhere to figure that out. Can ya clear that up for me? Lol
 
So, can I add spacers to my suspension lift to gain some extra height? Like spidertrax, or some 1.5-2 inch spacers on my front coils and rear coils? How would that affect performance. I want to gain a little more height when I move up in tire size. (I don't think my adjustable coils could be spanned to lift the front much more given that it has to be uneven due to weight on drivers side? Or it'll throw my bilsteins off? I don't really know the settings. I'll have to take it somewhere to figure that out. Can ya clear that up for me? Lol
Well the problem with putting spacers on top of Bilsteins is they are already extended travel shocks. In fact, they are longer than all the extended travel options out there if I remember correctly. When you add a spacer on top of them it allows your suspension to drop to far, killing your bushings, balljoints, tie rods and cv axles. Mall crawler could probably get away with it, but if you go offroad you'll tear it up.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
So, can I add spacers to my suspension lift to gain some extra height? Like spidertrax, or some 1.5-2 inch spacers on my front coils and rear coils? How would that affect performance. I want to gain a little more height when I move up in tire size. (I don't think my adjustable coils could be spanned to lift the front much more given that it has to be uneven due to weight on drivers side? Or it'll throw my bilsteins off? I don't really know the settings. I'll have to take it somewhere to figure that out. Can ya clear that up for me? Lol

to further that explicitly.
when you overextend the travel (past ~3.5") in front, you will bind your CV axles. NO BUENO :tsk::tsk:
 
Well the problem with putting spacers on top of Bilsteins is they are already extended travel shocks. In fact, they are longer than all the extended travel options out there if I remember correctly. When you add a spacer on top of them it allows your suspension to drop to far, killing your bushings, balljoints, tie rods and cv axles. Mall crawler could probably get away with it, but if you go offroad you'll tear it up.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

pppfffftt get out of here with your logic and reason.

but seriously i run a spacer on top of my BOSS coilovers that are set at 1.5" and my limit in down travel is my UCA hitting the spring. now is it the best thing for all parts involved? no definitely not, but if kept in check and maintained no issues should be had. i just now need to replace/reboot my CVs after 2years.
 
oh and here is some more stuff on my truck and set up, since it wasnt in my original post.

Suspension:
- Toytec BOSS coilovers set at 1.5" with a 2" lift spacer on top for the most down travel possible and to take the preload out of the coilovers.
- Ebay uniball UCAs, very happy with them for the money i spent and no issues to report.
- Metaltech Lt stage 4 with the 2" springs and icon VS 2.0 shocks. lower links set to 1" longer than stock, resulted in me having to clearance the rear of the wheel well a little more and cut about 1-1.5" of the rear bumper cover out and pound the rear pinch weld also.
Tires:
- Treadwright Guarddog MTs 35x12.50r17
very happy with these tires, only other tire that i like more are the Cooper ST Maxxs.
Brakes: very important for 35s in my opinion
- PowerStop drilled and slotted rotors with Z36 ceramic pads.
Body lift
- 1" 4Crawler aka roger brown

pictures of stuff

articulation; 38" of total articulation measured on a 20 degree ramp at 35 psi

JnJ6k3hh.jpg


N1dwjYbh.jpg


cutting;

driver side body mount and fire wall. had to cut about 1.5" or so out of the lower 6-8" of the flare/fender and about 1" along the bottom 4" or so of the front bumper cover. ive since gone back and touch some stuff up and pounded my firewall with a bigger sledge hammer

MAuEq8Sh.jpg


TwlhAb9h.jpg


XQUV7QRh.jpg


wuUnPyIh.jpg


QCbsX2Jh.jpg


93nSzYCh.jpg
 
pppfffftt get out of here with your logic and reason.

but seriously i run a spacer on top of my BOSS coilovers that are set at 1.5" and my limit in down travel is my UCA hitting the spring. now is it the best thing for all parts involved? no definitely not, but if kept in check and maintained no issues should be had. i just now need to replace/reboot my CVs after 2years.
Lol!
Bilsteins extend further than the boss though. Still have stock uca?

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
Lol!
Bilsteins extend further than the boss though. Still have stock uca?

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

hell no. i would never be able to get the ~10" of front suspension travel i have with stock UCAs. i have the Ebay uniballs and love them. it was written out in my post just before this and in my sig. should i buy you hooked on phonics for christmas? :flipoff:

and plus the UCA would be the limiting factor anyways so extended travel or not a spacer will still net roughly the same travel depending on which UCA is installed
 
hell no. i would never be able to get the ~10" of front suspension travel i have with stock UCAs. i have the Ebay uniballs and love them. it was written out in my post just before this and in my sig. should i buy you hooked on phonics for christmas? :flipoff:

and plus the UCA would be the limiting factor anyways so extended travel or not a spacer will still net roughly the same travel depending on which UCA is installed
Lol, I saw that but I was stuck in traffic and it finally started moving so I didn't get back to it.
And yes, uca would definitely be deciding factor there! Lol

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
I guess I can post here haha. Been running 35's for about 1.5 years now. Dont know if it will be much help to anyone since I have a lot of stuff most do not have on their trucks, but here it goes.
Tires:
Ive had both Toyo Open Country MT's and BFG KO2's in a 35x12.5r17. Rim size is 17x9 with about 4" of backspacing. Running a 1.25" spacer in the rear

Suspension:
Front: Custom +4.5" each side long travel kit
Probably about 3" higher than stock, although its hard to tell at this point
Rear: OME 895 springs with Icon Aluminum 2.0 shocks
(Soon to be leaf spring swapped with Deaver F67's and most likely 12" shackles with 12" or 14" stroke shocks, axle will be moved back about 3/4" to help with clearance)
1.5" Body lift
No bumpstop extension, front or rear

Body Mods:
Body mount chopped
Trimmed Fiberwerx front fenders
Trimmed ~1" from the rear bumper in fender well area
Front tube bumper I built

Fit:
Clears lock to lock full compression in the front
Slight rub in rear on door in fenderwell, but not much can be done about that

Other Mods:
Regeared front and rear with Yukon 4.88's, solid spacer in the rear
CVJ 4130 front axle shafts running OEM outer CV's

IMG_0385_zpsffvb0laq.jpg~original


IMG_0193_zpsx0dtvnwv.jpg~original
 
I guess I can post here haha. Been running 35's for about 1.5 years now. Dont know if it will be much help to anyone since I have a lot of stuff most do not have on their trucks, but here it goes.
Tires:
Ive had both Toyo Open Country MT's and BFG KO2's in a 35x12.5r17. Rim size is 17x9 with about 4" of backspacing. Running a 1.25" spacer in the rear

Suspension:
Front: Custom +4.5" each side long travel kit
Probably about 3" higher than stock, although its hard to tell at this point
Rear: OME 895 springs with Icon Aluminum 2.0 shocks
(Soon to be leaf spring swapped with Deaver F67's and most likely 12" shackles with 12" or 14" stroke shocks, axle will be moved back about 3/4" to help with clearance)
1.5" Body lift
No bumpstop extension, front or rear

Body Mods:
Body mount chopped
Trimmed Fiberwerx front fenders
Trimmed ~1" from the rear bumper in fender well area
Front tube bumper I built

Fit:
Clears lock to lock full compression in the front
Slight rub in rear on door in fenderwell, but not much can be done about that

Other Mods:
Regeared front and rear with Yukon 4.88's, solid spacer in the rear
CVJ 4130 front axle shafts running OEM outer CV's

IMG_0385_zpsffvb0laq.jpg~original


IMG_0193_zpsx0dtvnwv.jpg~original

I think this is the first time I've seen your truck, looks unique, I like.:cheer2:
 
I guess I can post here haha. Been running 35's for about 1.5 years now. Dont know if it will be much help to anyone since I have a lot of stuff most do not have on their trucks, but here it goes.
Tires:
Ive had both Toyo Open Country MT's and BFG KO2's in a 35x12.5r17. Rim size is 17x9 with about 4" of backspacing. Running a 1.25" spacer in the rear

Suspension:
Front: Custom +4.5" each side long travel kit
Probably about 3" higher than stock, although its hard to tell at this point
Rear: OME 895 springs with Icon Aluminum 2.0 shocks
(Soon to be leaf spring swapped with Deaver F67's and most likely 12" shackles with 12" or 14" stroke shocks, axle will be moved back about 3/4" to help with clearance)
1.5" Body lift
No bumpstop extension, front or rear

Body Mods:
Body mount chopped
Trimmed Fiberwerx front fenders
Trimmed ~1" from the rear bumper in fender well area
Front tube bumper I built

Fit:
Clears lock to lock full compression in the front
Slight rub in rear on door in fenderwell, but not much can be done about that

Other Mods:
Regeared front and rear with Yukon 4.88's, solid spacer in the rear
CVJ 4130 front axle shafts running OEM outer CV's

IMG_0385_zpsffvb0laq.jpg~original


IMG_0193_zpsx0dtvnwv.jpg~original

whats your travel from full bump to full drop with that custom front LT set up. i was able to milk the OEM geometry for 10"
 
(Soon to be leaf spring swapped with Deaver F67's and most likely 12" shackles with 12" or 14" stroke shocks, axle will be moved back about 3/4" to help with clearance)

Deavers? Nice! You better do a write up this time!
whats your travel from full bump to full drop with that custom front LT set up. i was able to milk the OEM geometry for 10"
What did you do? Would love to do some tweaking.

Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.
 
I think this is the first time I've seen your truck, looks unique, I like.:cheer2:
Thank you! Its unique to say the least haha.

whats your travel from full bump to full drop with that custom front LT set up. i was able to milk the OEM geometry for 10"
Im getting about 13.5" right now with the axles in. Right now the limiting factor is the axles, metal to metal cycling without axles was closer to 14.5" to 15". Could probably squeeze just a bit more of bump travel now if I shorten the bump stops, although I think the limit would then become the upper uniball running out of angle.

Deavers? Nice! You better do a write up this time!
Sent from the drivers seat of my 05 4runner.

Once I pull the trigger, I will for sure. Found some F67's local, just waiting for the guy to respond before I go purchase them, but hes super flaky so who knows how that will turn out. Might actually have to start a build thread then, been putting it off for awhile haha.
 

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