**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
S p a r k y
New member
Lower cam bolts will adjust a little, but definitely not enough to run large tires.
SAR_Runner
New member
Is there ANY setup of ANY type that allows for full steering and no rubbing on anything while running 35's?
I ask because in my opinion, if you tires rub EVER, they don't fit. Especially with the wheeling I do, Just yesterday I jumped my truck off a 9 ft cliff and the tires would not have survived if they had been rubbing on something. They would have just been sliced open by whatever they hit. So what does it take to get full steering with full articulation and no rubbing? Long travel? No fenders at all?
I ask because in my opinion, if you tires rub EVER, they don't fit. Especially with the wheeling I do, Just yesterday I jumped my truck off a 9 ft cliff and the tires would not have survived if they had been rubbing on something. They would have just been sliced open by whatever they hit. So what does it take to get full steering with full articulation and no rubbing? Long travel? No fenders at all?
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
315's are 35's. You're good to go.
Yeah...not always. I have 315 65r 17 which are wider than normal 35s but not as high.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Can't find any tires in that size. 305/65/17?
315 is the width so they aren't any wider than other 315s.
You will be alright if you keep the cliff jumping to only 7ft.
The most stuff in the rear comes from articulation. Just trim until you are comfortable and add spacers to the rest.
NinjaOne
New member
I'm shooting for 35x12.50 :loco: :der:
jsmith21
New member
I just finished trimming to fit 35s on the front. I used the blue clips from amazon at 50 for $6.
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Are the clips for the fender flare? Easiest to just replace them if you take the flares off?
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magert54
New member
Yes, the clips are one time use unless you are careful. Super cheap from Amazon!
I replaced all of them with blue clips before reinstalling.
Drunner97
New member
Has anyone done 35s without a body lift? I kinda skimmed through the thread but I wanna say most of you guys are running a body lift. I'll be running 3" metal tech heavy coils in the rear due to about 200 lbs of bumper and I have extended travel coil overs up front. I've been running 33" KM2s and I've got a set of 315/75/16 KM2s sitting in the garage that I picked up for a hell of a deal. I have no problem cutting up my body since this is strictly a wheeling rig and will never be sold. Mostly curious what was done with the rear end to keep the tire from rubbing the door. I do have adjustable links in the rear so I can move my axle back if I need to.
rickashay
New member
If your running the MT long travel rear coils, then you have your rear bump stops dropped. If that's the case the limit in uptravel helps to keep the tire out of the door. Any further adjustment can come from moving the axle back.
Drunner97
New member
Okay perfect. I do have the 3" bump extensions already with the 2" MT coils already. The up travel isn't a huge issue for the majority of the wheeling I do, but we'll see how much it limits me in the boulders. I'm assuming I'll get a bit more travel out of the 3" coils anyway to help offset some of this. Only reason I went up to the 3" was because I added almost 200 lbs of bumper in the rear and the 2" medium isn't handling the weight very well.
theoutbackdream
New member
Putting an idea together for when my current tires wear down and need replacement of 35x12.50's :heh:.
Has anyone ran the JBA UCA's with 35's? Did you have problems with rubbing the UCA? Did it end up giving you a decent amount of caster to clear the rear of the front wheel well? I'm thinking about getting the Non-HD versions, and so far, it seems with a 3" lift, they net in somewhere right around 3.0* of caster.
Are the OEM Rear lower links long enough to clear the front of the rear wheel well, or would I need to upgrade? I'd prefer to trim the rear bumper, rather than the door...
Has anyone ran the JBA UCA's with 35's? Did you have problems with rubbing the UCA? Did it end up giving you a decent amount of caster to clear the rear of the front wheel well? I'm thinking about getting the Non-HD versions, and so far, it seems with a 3" lift, they net in somewhere right around 3.0* of caster.
Are the OEM Rear lower links long enough to clear the front of the rear wheel well, or would I need to upgrade? I'd prefer to trim the rear bumper, rather than the door...
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