**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

[Drunner97]

Putting an idea together for when my current tires wear down and need replacement of 35x12.50's :heh:.

Has anyone ran the JBA UCA's with 35's? Did you have problems with rubbing the UCA? Did it end up giving you a decent amount of caster to clear the rear of the front wheel well? I'm thinking about getting the Non-HD versions, and so far, it seems with a 3" lift, they net in somewhere right around 3.0* of caster.

Are the OEM Rear lower links long enough to clear the front of the rear wheel well, or would I need to upgrade? I'd prefer to trim the rear bumper, rather than the door...

I'm running TC uppers and 3* is about perfect. Still some rubbing but it's minor. I have adjustable rear links but they're currently set at stock length. I need to move them back just a hair because I am just barely rubbing the doors.

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[bpchura]

[MENTION=157695]theoutbackdream[/MENTION] I'm in the same boat as you! I just installed the JBA's (theyre awesome by the way) and was wondering if they would facilitate 35's in the future. Currently at about 3.2* of caster

 

[theoutbackdream]

I'm running TC uppers and 3* is about perfect. Still some rubbing but it's minor. I have adjustable rear links but they're currently set at stock length. I need to move them back just a hair because I am just barely rubbing the doors.

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This is good to know. Where are you rubbing in the front? The top of the wheel well or front/rear of the wheel well?

How much of the door panel are you rubbing?

 

[theoutbackdream]

[MENTION=157695]theoutbackdream[/MENTION] I'm in the same boat as you! I just installed the JBA's (theyre awesome by the way) and was wondering if they would facilitate 35's in the future. Currently at about 3.2* of caster

Now if only [MENTION=142877]Folsom4Rnr[/MENTION] would do it to... Team work makes the dream work. :lmao:

The only worries I have with the JBA's with going 35's are...
1. Does it give enough caster? From what it sounds, it nets 3.0* of caster, and that seems like it's enough. But It seems like 4.0*+ of caster is preferred...

You'll want your Caster to be north of 4* Positive Caster with those 35's to help eliminate scrubbing on turns under compression.

Having gone through 2 UCAs to get the same 5.5~6* Caster I am running on my vehicle, I highly recommend you invest in an UCA that has a lot of Caster built into it and/or allows adjustment of the UCA mounting points (this will limit them to heim joints). The reason I mention that is because I was running SPC Racing units before and despite their design allowing an additional 3~4* Caster correction over the factory units, I struggled to get my vehicle in the 5.5* range (all my cams were very maxed out and my Camber was a bit more positive than I'd like). After my accident last year, I invested in some Camburg Kinetik Unibal UCAs and it's night an day difference. Before (and on most lifted Toyotas) I've noticed that SAI (Steering Angle Inclination) was way out, not that it mattered a lot or was adjustable; but with the Camburgs I was not only able to easily get 6.1* Caster and a -0.5 Camber, but SAI was much more inline with factor specs. The scrubbing I used to get under some compression when turning went away (though with my wheel offset, width, and tires I've noticed I need to adjust my steering stops as on full lock I rub on the UCA).

2. The amount of spacing you have from the back of the tire to the UCA. Since you have them, what wheel and tires(size) are you running right now, and how much space do you have from the back of the tire to the closest point of the UCA? (Also, if you have wheel spacers, how thick are they?)

 

[Drunner97]

This is good to know. Where are you rubbing in the front? The top of the wheel well or front/rear of the wheel well?

How much of the door panel are you rubbing?

Rubbing the frame slightly at full lock, top of the wheel wells on both sides (I've cut about 2" off my fenders so they clear) As long as I get 3+ castor I've cut enough cab mount to clear that and the firewall. I've gotten as much as 4* from a good alignment tech but 3* seems to be the sweet spot for toe and camber specs.

On the rear, I'm just barely hitting the door panel and it has to be a hard hit. I forgot to mention I'm running metal tech 3" LT coils, bump extensions, and have a steel bumper with swing out + full size spare so I'm at about 2" of lift with all the weight. Oh, I am hitting the sheet metal where the stock bumper bolts to, but that's easy enough to remedy, just needs to be cut/folded.

A lot of these things are the reasons that more 4th gen guys run body lifts. It remedies the need for cutting or adjusting the rear axle. I'm personally not running one.

Now if only [MENTION=142877]Folsom4Rnr[/MENTION] would do it to... Team work makes the dream work. :lmao:

The only worries I have with the JBA's with going 35's are...
1. Does it give enough caster? From what it sounds, it nets 3.0* of caster, and that seems like it's enough. But It seems like 4.0*+ of caster is preferred...



2. The amount of spacing you have from the back of the tire to the UCA. Since you have them, what wheel and tires(size) are you running right now, and how much space do you have from the back of the tire to the closest point of the UCA? (Also, if you have wheel spacers, how thick are they?)

 

[Folsom4Rnr]

Now if only [MENTION=142877]Folsom4Rnr[/MENTION] would do it to...

...LOL... You first :heh:

I'm thinking about it :decision: ... I've got this thread and a few others about 35's bookmarked. Just trying to decide what I want more :juggle:

 

[theoutbackdream]

...LOL... You first :heh:

I'm thinking about it :decision: ... I've got this thread and a few others about 35's bookmarked. Just trying to decide what I want more :juggle:

Last I checked...

Team work makes the dream work.

Not,

Getting Supervised makes the dream work.

 

[Folsom4Rnr]

Last I checked...

Team work makes the dream work.

Not,

Getting Supervised makes the dream work.

:lmao:

 

[theoutbackdream]

Rubbing the frame slightly at full lock, top of the wheel wells on both sides (I've cut about 2" off my fenders so they clear) As long as I get 3+ castor I've cut enough cab mount to clear that and the firewall. I've gotten as much as 4* from a good alignment tech but 3* seems to be the sweet spot for toe and camber specs.

On the rear, I'm just barely hitting the door panel and it has to be a hard hit. I forgot to mention I'm running metal tech 3" LT coils, bump extensions, and have a steel bumper with swing out + full size spare so I'm at about 2" of lift with all the weight. Oh, I am hitting the sheet metal where the stock bumper bolts to, but that's easy enough to remedy, just needs to be cut/folded.

A lot of these things are the reasons that more 4th gen guys run body lifts. It remedies the need for cutting or adjusting the rear axle. I'm personally not running one.

Frame as in Body mount as well?

This is good to know. Sounds like it might not be that hard to stuff 35's in. I personally don't plan on running a BL either. So, from the sounds of it, it is doable.. Just the question of how much I want to cut...

 

[Drunner97]

Frame as in Body mount as well?

This is good to know. Sounds like it might not be that hard to stuff 35's in. I personally don't plan on running a BL either. So, from the sounds of it, it is doable.. Just the question of how much I want to cut...

As in frame rail. This is with 1.25 spacers with 16" scs sr8 wheels. The shiney spot is where I'm rubbing.

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[theoutbackdream]

As in frame rail. This is with 1.25 spacers with 16" scs sr8 wheels. The shiney spot is where I'm rubbing.

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Good to know, thanks for the pic. Would you happen to know the offset and width of your wheels?

 

[Drunner97]

Good to know, thanks for the pic. Would you happen to know the offset and width of your wheels?

16x8

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[Pathfinder5243]

Here's 315/70's on my old wheels.

 

[cloud]

Very happy with the 35's
Logged a little over 4000 miles on them in the last week and finished off in Moab. Gonna do a little write up on that adventure. Here's a couple pics from Kane Creek

Might I add all by standers were JKU owners


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Did you regear?

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[cloud]

I've read a stupid amount of info on fitting 35's and I can't find what to do to move the axle back. How the hell are you guys moving the axle? Do you get all new control arms and everything? From what I understand you need to start with a 3" suspension lift or you're wasting your time. Body lifts are for noobs.

Can we get this stickied and cleaned up? I know we all want to run big tires but it's frustrating reading the same damn question six times in every thread about the subject.

Let me start:

3" (suspension) lift or stop posting!

Bump stops: extended or die!

Upper control arms: SPC or some nice uniball like camburg, preferably the latter. If you have stock UCA'S stop posting.

Front bumper: steel made for Wheeling, or cut it the F up

Rear bumper: aftermarket or cut it the F up

Body mount: chop it

Pinch weld: cut and hammer it

Bilsteins: go to hell

Fenders and doors: covered by previous items in this list although an axle relocate MAY be necessary.

If you're running a body lift, you might get away with less chopping and hammering but then you are that guy with a body lift on off-road trails.

Wheels: AFTERMARKET probably gonna need a -12mm offset. Make sure they're hub-centric. Buried in this forum somewhere is a PHENOMENAL website that shows you the exact effects of various wheel/tire combinations.
If you use stock wheels, you'll need spacers. Also called "an extra point of failure" and they require EXACT torque or you'll probably die.

Gears: regear (or risk ripping up your axle, which is not a full floater) to 4.88 or 5.29, should really add air lockers at this point.

Like someone mentioned, if it rubs at all they don't fit. You'll either jam something important, or slice your tires open.

Alignment: I'm not the guy to ask, and it really depends on your UCA'S. If you're running SPC: good luck.

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[Drunner97]

I've read a stupid amount of info on fitting 35's and I can't find what to do to move the axle back. How the hell are you guys moving the axle? Do you get all new control arms and everything? From what I understand you need to start with a 3" suspension lift or you're wasting your time. Body lifts are for noobs.

Can we get this stickied and cleaned up? I know we all want to run big tires but it's frustrating reading the same damn question six times in every thread about the subject.

Let me start:

3" (suspension) lift or stop posting!

Bump stops: extended or die!

Upper control arms: SPC or some nice uniball like camburg, preferably the latter. If you have stock UCA'S stop posting.

Front bumper: steel made for Wheeling, or cut it the F up

Rear bumper: aftermarket or cut it the F up

Body mount: chop it

Pinch weld: cut and hammer it

Bilsteins: go to hell

Fenders and doors: covered by previous items in this list although an axle relocate MAY be necessary.

If you're running a body lift, you might get away with less chopping and hammering but then you are that guy with a body lift on off-road trails.

Wheels: AFTERMARKET probably gonna need a -12mm offset. Make sure they're hub-centric. Buried in this forum somewhere is a PHENOMENAL website that shows you the exact effects of various wheel/tire combinations.
If you use stock wheels, you'll need spacers. Also called "an extra point of failure" and they require EXACT torque or you'll probably die.

Gears: regear (or risk ripping up your axle, which is not a full floater) to 4.88 or 5.29, should really add air lockers at this point.

Like someone mentioned, if it rubs at all they don't fit. You'll either jam something important, or slice your tires open.

Alignment: I'm not the guy to ask, and it really depends on your UCA'S. If you're running SPC: good luck.

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Aftermarket adjustable links are the only way to move your axle back. It's not incredibly necessary, but you'll end up chopping some plastic off your rear doors. From looking at it, the chopped plastic would PROBABLY be hidden by the door itself if you went that route. I'm BARELY rubbing at full stuff, but it's happening and it gets annoying sometimes hearing it.

 

[Inv4drZm]

I've read a stupid amount of info on fitting 35's and I can't find what to do to move the axle back. How the hell are you guys moving the axle? Do you get all new control arms and everything? From what I understand you need to start with a 3" suspension lift or you're wasting your time. Body lifts are for noobs.

Can we get this stickied and cleaned up? I know we all want to run big tires but it's frustrating reading the same damn question six times in every thread about the subject.

Let me start:

3" (suspension) lift or stop posting!

Bump stops: extended or die!

Upper control arms: SPC or some nice uniball like camburg, preferably the latter. If you have stock UCA'S stop posting.

Front bumper: steel made for Wheeling, or cut it the F up

Rear bumper: aftermarket or cut it the F up

Body mount: chop it

Pinch weld: cut and hammer it

Bilsteins: go to hell

Fenders and doors: covered by previous items in this list although an axle relocate MAY be necessary.

If you're running a body lift, you might get away with less chopping and hammering but then you are that guy with a body lift on off-road trails.

Wheels: AFTERMARKET probably gonna need a -12mm offset. Make sure they're hub-centric. Buried in this forum somewhere is a PHENOMENAL website that shows you the exact effects of various wheel/tire combinations.
If you use stock wheels, you'll need spacers. Also called "an extra point of failure" and they require EXACT torque or you'll probably die.

Gears: regear (or risk ripping up your axle, which is not a full floater) to 4.88 or 5.29, should really add air lockers at this point.

Like someone mentioned, if it rubs at all they don't fit. You'll either jam something important, or slice your tires open.

Alignment: I'm not the guy to ask, and it really depends on your UCA'S. If you're running SPC: good luck.

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk

So do you have 35's now or are you just researching how to add them?

 

[NinjaOne]

Let me start:

3" (suspension) lift or stop posting!

Bump stops: extended or die!

Your standard bolt on 3" suspension lift doesn't help with tire clearance. Wheel choice and alignment both play a bigger role. You're only options to clear larger tires is cut or limit up-travel. Lift only helps clear through the starbucks drive through.

 

[Inv4drZm]

From what I understand you need to start with a 3" suspension lift or you're wasting your time. Body lifts are for noobs.

Do you mean spacer lifts? Body lifts are pretty helpful.

Rear bumper: aftermarket or cut it the F up

I needed to cut back my 4x4labs rear bumper to fully stuff my 35's with no bump stop spacers.

If you're running a body lift, you might get away with less chopping and hammering but then you are that guy with a body lift on off-road trails.

Again, I don't see the apparently obvious negativity of a BL? It allows me to weld my sliders and bumpers 1.5" higher, and my 35's would probably rub the tops of the wheel wells without it. Allows you more room in the engine bay to mount stuff like compressors and Switch-Pros or SPods.

Gears: regear (or risk ripping up your axle, which is not a full floater) to 4.88 or 5.29, should really add air lockers at this point.

The usual choice is 4.56 or 4.88, 4.88 being the better choice for tons of extra weight with the V6. You won't break the axle shafts in the rear, only the gears. But the OEM rear gears I would expect to break once you get in the 34"-35" tire range and do serious crawling so rebuilding the rear diff with a solid pinion spacer and ARB lockers is a great idea.

 

[cloud]

So do you have 35's now or are you just researching how to add them?

Just doing research and triple checking other people's builds who have 35s. I popped a tire today so I may be getting down and dirty with the angle grinder soon.

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