**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

Well I'm in trouble

Alright I did it, I stuck some 35x12.50 nitto ridge grapplers on my 4runner. Did the body mount chop before I took it in and, big surprise, needs more chop.

But then there's the real problem. My wheels are grinding the hell out of my calipers. I have the right wheel specs but the way these wheels are made makes them very inconvenient on stock brakes.

I guess I could go to the parts store and grab some 5mm spacers and call it good, but I don't like that option very much. I know the problem will sort itself out in a few miles but it makes some God awful sounds when I hit the brake pedal. Just how much extra metal is in those callipers anyway?

Ill be giving rr-racing a call in the morning about a brake kit. Is anybody running the bigger brakes on steelies?

I thought someone else was using pro comps with their 35s but now I can't find that post.

Pro comp 97 series 17x9 4.25" backspace (4.5" is -12mm offset so I'm close to -19.) MAJOR PROBLEM these pro comps will destroy your front calipers, temporary solution is a 1/4" wheel spacer for the front two wheels. Hoping the big brake kit pushes the callipers out enough to remove the spacers.

3.2" front lift, 3.5" rear

SPC UCA'S

No body lift

Body mount chop in progress.

Pinch weld hammered flat

2" toytec bump stop drop (not installed yet, need bolts)

Rear sway bar delete
Front sway bar factory specs with relocate kit, no more rubbing issues

Forest thoughts: I don't ever want to change this tire on the trail. There is no way in hell I could have gotten one of these changed on the side of that mountain in Colorado this summer. That's something to think about. If you get into stupid spots 35s, especially on steel, may not be able to be changed leaving you with shit choices.

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It is a snorkel meant for a 1990-1997 80 series land cruiser, there was a bit of drilling and cutting to make it work, but it works great!

Chopping is nerve racking until you hit the trails and go home without plastic parts in the back of your 4Runner. Measure 5 times, cut short, test it and cut more if needed.

:girl:
Didn't the 80 series have a smaller engine meaning the snorkel would choke a V8?

Sent from my XT1710-02 using Tapatalk
 
Califabrication Body Mount Relocation Kit

Chance At Califab on Instagram: “Did some work on this very clean 3rg Gen Taco yesterday. We installed some Hammer Hangars and shackles(drop hangar). We also did a complete…”

Just thought I'd share this....the link above is to an Instagram post from califab where they announce they'll be offering a body mount relocation kit that allows 4runner/FJ/tacoma to clear 35s with no rubbing issues. When I PMed them they told me ~$650 for it installed in-house or about $140 for the kit with new bushings and sleeves.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet cause I'm trying to save up some money but I 100% plan to get this kit and install it. Found out that my driver body mount is chewing up my tire lugs and full lock so I need to get that fixed sooner rather than later. Overall the kit looks like a quality kit.

I'll post an update on here once I get it installed
 
Califabrication Body Mount Relocation Kit

Chance At Califab on Instagram: “Did some work on this very clean 3rg Gen Taco yesterday. We installed some Hammer Hangars and shackles(drop hangar). We also did a complete…”

Just thought I'd share this....the link above is to an Instagram post from califab where they announce they'll be offering a body mount relocation kit that allows 4runner/FJ/tacoma to clear 35s with no rubbing issues. When I PMed them they told me ~$650 for it installed in-house or about $140 for the kit with new bushings and sleeves.

I haven't pulled the trigger yet cause I'm trying to save up some money but I 100% plan to get this kit and install it. Found out that my driver body mount is chewing up my tire lugs and full lock so I need to get that fixed sooner rather than later. Overall the kit looks like a quality kit.

I'll post an update on here once I get it installed

Definitely interested. I either need to get more caster or move my body mounts, or both. There's been a kit out for Tacomas for awhile now and I was wondering when someone was going to do it for the 4runners. 140 isn't bad either.
 
Definitely interested. I either need to get more caster or move my body mounts, or both. There's been a kit out for Tacomas for awhile now and I was wondering when someone was going to do it for the 4runners. 140 isn't bad either.

Besides this all I can really do is a tube of the fenders. I'm considering throwing a 1/4" spacer on the driver side because it sits lower than the passenger and has more rubbing issues against the body. Not sure of what more to do besides beg an alignment shop to give me amazing caster
 
Besides this all I can really do is a tube of the fenders. I'm considering throwing a 1/4" spacer on the driver side because it sits lower than the passenger and has more rubbing issues against the body. Not sure of what more to do besides beg an alignment shop to give me amazing caster

I'm debating a 1/2" body lift just so I can get the wheel wells sitting a little higher. I only tag the wheel well on really hard hits and short of limiting my up travel or tubbing them there's not much else I can do there. I've already chopped the shit out of my fenders and those pretty much clear, it's just the wheel well and body mount in the front now that I still hit. Oh and my window washer reservoir, but I'm not doing anything about that until I literally rip it out of the engine bay, hahah.
 
I'm debating a 1/2" body lift just so I can get the wheel wells sitting a little higher. I only tag the wheel well on really hard hits and short of limiting my up travel or tubbing them there's not much else I can do there. I've already chopped the shit out of my fenders and those pretty much clear, it's just the wheel well and body mount in the front now that I still hit. Oh and my window washer reservoir, but I'm not doing anything about that until I literally rip it out of the engine bay, hahah.

I have a 1.5" body lift and still rub a good deal on the body sadly. I'll just have to play around with it.

As for the window washer reservoir, I've been meaning to get this kit for awhile:

https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Wi...v+universal+car+windshield+washer+pump+washer

A friend of mine got this kit and installed it when he got 35s and just put it in the engine bay on the passenger side. Said it works well just doesn't have as much capacity obviously. Only $20 though, just haven't gotten around to getting it
 
Not horribly but enough for me to want to get the body mount relocation done asap. I can post a pic when I get a chance to go take one later. Its only eating the driver tire though which is odd to me, clears on the passenger side.

You have 3 degrees of caster, why would you jump to wanting to do a bm relocation? What UCA’s? Get at least over 4 degrees and then decide
 
You have 3 degrees of caster, why would you jump to wanting to do a bm relocation? What UCA’s? Get at least over 4 degrees and then decide

I've got the TC UCAs. I've been looking recently and I know I probably need to get more caster, I just didnt think about asking for it when I took it for an alignment because most times you have to beg the shop to do more than 3 degrees
 
I've got the TC UCAs. I've been looking recently and I know I probably need to get more caster, I just didnt think about asking for it when I took it for an alignment because most times you have to beg the shop to do more than 3 degrees

I took my truck to the same alignment shop every day for a week and asked them to start at 4 or more degrees of caster and they always brought it back saying it's fine and not out of alignment.

When you yell at people, they turn off autopilot and start to hear you.
 
Just read this entire thread again because 35s are the new 33 and im starting to consider preparations to make the jump from 285/75/17 (34)s to 35 on a daily driven and also wheeled a few times a year. v8 4runner.

Dont have a BL, Still have oem gearing, I Have rear bump extensions, prepared do do more cutting. Will I regret this decision? lol
 
Just read this entire thread again because 35s are the new 33

So frikin true. And 37's are the new 35's. My 35's are starting to look small to me.

I have an 05' V8, daily driven with 35's stock gears, no problems whatsoever. I do have a 1.5" BL so that made things easier cutting-wise. Still plenty of power, just don't use the cruise control, so the only real consideration is trimming/clearance IMO.

I just regeared to 4.88's and I'm still in my break-in period. But I touched half throttle from 10-30mph and it felt goooood. Almost seems like it shifts faster too. Once the diffs are broken in and I turn my sprint booster back on I expect warp speed. Honestly it was fine with stock gears, but I needed the lockers so might as well.
 
So frikin true. And 37's are the new 35's. My 35's are starting to look small to me.

I have an 05' V8, daily driven with 35's stock gears, no problems whatsoever. I do have a 1.5" BL so that made things easier cutting-wise. Still plenty of power, just don't use the cruise control, so the only real consideration is trimming/clearance IMO.

I just regeared to 4.88's and I'm still in my break-in period. But I touched half throttle from 10-30mph and it felt goooood. Almost seems like it shifts faster too. Once the diffs are broken in and I turn my sprint booster back on I expect warp speed. Honestly it was fine with stock gears, but I needed the lockers so might as well.

I appreciate the encouraging words, My wallet doesn't, But I do lol. Im willing to cut a decent amount to make it work. Ive already chopped a bunch to make what I have flex. I may do a body lift down the road but im not in a rush for it. Your new drive line setup is basically my inspiration if I can ever put aside enough truck parts money.
I think the biggest fear is that 35's is the tipping point for the stock drive line and im gonna be grenadeing my diffs. Im pretty careful and not hard on it when wheeling but thats an expensive risk to take for 1 inch of tire.
 

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I appreciate the encouraging words, My wallet doesn't, But I do lol. Im willing to cut a decent amount to make it work. Ive already chopped a bunch to make what I have flex. I may do a body lift down the road but im not in a rush for it. Your new drive line setup is basically my inspiration if I can ever put aside enough truck parts money.
I think the biggest fear is that 35's is the tipping point for the stock drive line and im gonna be grenadeing my diffs. Im pretty careful and not hard on it when wheeling but thats an expensive risk to take for 1 inch of tire.

I've said this various times in a couple posts, but since you have OEM gears, with an old crush washer, I would always have a backup plan in case you grenade your rear diff. In my experience, all it would take is a couple bad hops with 35's, and in my brother's experience, less than that to warrant a new 3rd member from ECGS. (But some say the 2007 FJ rear diff was manufactured weaker than the rest)

But once you get one with a solid pinion spacer I think you should be good to go, but you would still have to take it easy.
 
I've said this various times in a couple posts, but since you have OEM gears, with an old crush washer, I would always have a backup plan in case you grenade your rear diff. In my experience, all it would take is a couple bad hops with 35's, and in my brother's experience, less than that to warrant a new 3rd member from ECGS. (But some say the 2007 FJ rear diff was manufactured weaker than the rest)

But once you get one with a solid pinion spacer I think you should be good to go, but you would still have to take it easy.


Is installing a solid pinion spacer into an oem diff something worth doing. Or is this in response to blowing it up. And if it is, how would you go about doing it
 

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