Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Yeah, that's a good start, trim and beat the rest of the way. Massage to fit LOL.
**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**
- Thread starter rickashay
- Start date
Yeah, that's a good start, trim and beat the rest of the way. Massage to fit LOL.
alextmullis
New member
Tire Size: 35x12.5x17
Tire Make/Model: Kenda Klever R/t
Wheels: 17x8.5 et 0 1.25” spacer
Bodylift: no
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3” front probably 2-5-2.75” rear
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC uppers
Caster correction: 2.9 degrees
Bumpers: Lil b’s hybrid
Trimming: body mount, rear bumper, lower quarter
Bumpstop drop? Metaltech rear, Duro bumps front
Notes: Which i went 35” sooner, matches the 4.88’s. No rubbing anywhere except for the rear bumper at full stuff.
Biggest pain-point with running 35's on the 4th Gen? Clearance and gusset you’re spindles.
Running stock length Rockmen lowers links.
Tire Make/Model: Kenda Klever R/t
Wheels: 17x8.5 et 0 1.25” spacer
Bodylift: no
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3” front probably 2-5-2.75” rear
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC uppers
Caster correction: 2.9 degrees
Bumpers: Lil b’s hybrid
Trimming: body mount, rear bumper, lower quarter
Bumpstop drop? Metaltech rear, Duro bumps front
Notes: Which i went 35” sooner, matches the 4.88’s. No rubbing anywhere except for the rear bumper at full stuff.
Biggest pain-point with running 35's on the 4th Gen? Clearance and gusset you’re spindles.
Running stock length Rockmen lowers links.
Attachments
MrSeth
Member
Update on wheels and tires since last post:
315 70r17's
Unique Soft 8 Steelies 9 wides with +0mm offset
Spidertrax 1.5" adapters still on
3.5" Long Travel
Fiberwerx 4.5" bulge fenders
The tires seem more proportionate and can still somewhat tuck. I'm actually ditching long travel next week and going back to the Light Racing UCA's and OEM LCAs because machined lengthened CV shafts are wayyy too much money.
Steering clearance wise though, with long travel, I can go lock to lock through the entire range of suspension articulation without coming close to the body mount or frame.
315 70r17's
Unique Soft 8 Steelies 9 wides with +0mm offset
Spidertrax 1.5" adapters still on
3.5" Long Travel
Fiberwerx 4.5" bulge fenders
The tires seem more proportionate and can still somewhat tuck. I'm actually ditching long travel next week and going back to the Light Racing UCA's and OEM LCAs because machined lengthened CV shafts are wayyy too much money.
Steering clearance wise though, with long travel, I can go lock to lock through the entire range of suspension articulation without coming close to the body mount or frame.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I'll probably need to update this post in the future when I have everything finalized with pictures, but I'm in the process of fitting 37" KM3s to my truck.
"I have 35's, what do I need to fit 37's?"
Assuming you wheel your truck...
35's are on the threshold of needing a regear, and a stronger diff rebuild on your rear 8", and preferably a rear locker to reduce wheel spin and increase control to help diff strength. A body lift will help gain you uptravel, and an alignment with high caster is helpful to prevent some trimming and cutting into the firewall.
37's require all of the above, and:
Some form of LT kit that pushes your tires away from your frame. With 35's I rubbed the frame but it was driveable, I can't imagine how much it would rub with 37s even with wheel spacers.
A LT kit will gain you more downtravel, which is needed because you will be limiting your uptravel more than likely unless you have fiberglass fenders and/or a huge body lift.
I am able to get street-driveablility with a set of 37's, with the trimming I did to fit 35's, because of my heimed UCA. I maxed the LCA all the way forward with the alignment cams, and moved the UCA as far forward as possible too. This is where a +2" or +3.5" kit will help as well to push the tire forward more than standard length. If I had to guess it moves the spindle 1/2" forward.
A standard LT kit, like mine, helps fit 37's. But a LT kit such as Marlin's or JD Fabrication's that specifically moves LCA mounts or spindles forward by inches is a huge fitment help.
Without one of these specialized LT kits, cutting into the firewall is more than likely needed to maximize uptravel with your 37s, as well as relocating your body mount.
Fitting in the rear is easier, to do it right you will need adjustable axle links to move the axle back 1/2" to 1", and trim your rear bumper. Then space your bumpstop down.
Not to mention having a beefier rear end than an 8" helps too. Something like the 5th gen's 8.2, an ECGS low pinion Dana 60, Currie's high pinion Dana 60, or a couple others.
"I have 35's, what do I need to fit 37's?"
Assuming you wheel your truck...
35's are on the threshold of needing a regear, and a stronger diff rebuild on your rear 8", and preferably a rear locker to reduce wheel spin and increase control to help diff strength. A body lift will help gain you uptravel, and an alignment with high caster is helpful to prevent some trimming and cutting into the firewall.
37's require all of the above, and:
Some form of LT kit that pushes your tires away from your frame. With 35's I rubbed the frame but it was driveable, I can't imagine how much it would rub with 37s even with wheel spacers.
A LT kit will gain you more downtravel, which is needed because you will be limiting your uptravel more than likely unless you have fiberglass fenders and/or a huge body lift.
I am able to get street-driveablility with a set of 37's, with the trimming I did to fit 35's, because of my heimed UCA. I maxed the LCA all the way forward with the alignment cams, and moved the UCA as far forward as possible too. This is where a +2" or +3.5" kit will help as well to push the tire forward more than standard length. If I had to guess it moves the spindle 1/2" forward.
A standard LT kit, like mine, helps fit 37's. But a LT kit such as Marlin's or JD Fabrication's that specifically moves LCA mounts or spindles forward by inches is a huge fitment help.
Without one of these specialized LT kits, cutting into the firewall is more than likely needed to maximize uptravel with your 37s, as well as relocating your body mount.
Fitting in the rear is easier, to do it right you will need adjustable axle links to move the axle back 1/2" to 1", and trim your rear bumper. Then space your bumpstop down.
Not to mention having a beefier rear end than an 8" helps too. Something like the 5th gen's 8.2, an ECGS low pinion Dana 60, Currie's high pinion Dana 60, or a couple others.
Jayson44
Member
I love the look of the 37s on 4th Gens, but I feel like that rear axle should be pushed back 3" or so...more wheelbase, better departure angle...more better!
that's just a personal opinion, though. and I'm guessing it's not easy to do that.
J.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I extended my rear links about 3/8", and it rubs the door at the same time it rubs the top of the fender. A full 3", which is quite a bit, would probably require custom length links. It would be easy to trim an aftermarket rear bumper back a couple inches to keep it looking clean, and of course require cutting off the rear pinch weld and re-sealing it.
Yes it would improve departure angle, but it would decrease breakover angle.
It might look pretty cool though, I'll think about it.
Jayson44
Member
oh yeah, it's all custom setup. I'm coming from the Jeep world where getting a 94" wheelbase wrangler to a 100" wheelbase is everyone's goal who wants to run 37s or bigger.
ideally, a 3" stretch in the rear would be awesome with 40s...but then you need SAS and other mods and lots of cash, haha. big dreams.
J.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
I could fit 40's in the rear pretty easily, just limit uptravel, move the axle back 1.5", and cut the pinchweld out. I already have a Dana 60 so I'm good strength-wise.
The front it's trickier of course. It can be done but it'll be near the cost of a cheap solid front axle swap if you want to wheel it hard.
BendRunner
New member
What's the consensus on bump stop extensions? I currently have durobumps front and rear. I see a 2" from toytec and metal tech, as well as a 3" from metal tech. Curious as which to get. Going for 35's no body lift.
Inv4drZm
Senior Member
Wheeler's sells some for front and rear, and spacers can be bought or built for them as well. That is what I have.
I had 35's and 1.5" body lift and barely didn't need spacers in the rear, so you'll be looking at 1.5" rear spacers probably. I had 1/4" or 3/8" front spacer so you'll probably need something larger, not sure though.
BendRunner
New member
thanks, going to call metal tech up on the phone. Currently running the durobumps which are a few inches longer than stock. I'll look at wheelers too.
PickleRiiiick
New member
I have gone through every single post here.. and have absorbed so much information thank you for the great idea and everyone's input this helps so many people its incredible.
Here is an overview of this forum... 2020 update!
What is needed to lift your 4th gen 4runner if you plan on running 35s! Please add or correct any info here and i will update it. Yes some of these are my personal preference but can use common sense to pick and choose your setup.
Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: Havent made a decision here yet
Wheels: Method 305 Matte Black 17x8.5 ( probably have to use 1.25 wheel spacers )
Bodylift: 1 inch BL ( to help with clearance )
Suspension: Radflo 2.5 front Coilovers w/ 650lb coils & extended travel, 2.5 rear extended with the OME 895 rear springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: Total Chaos Uniball
Caster correction: Minimum 4* and maximum 6.1*
Bumpers/Armor/Accessories: Will be doing a hybrid style front bumper with a winch, sliders w/ kickout, rear swing out, full skids, and RTT, down the road do a dometic fridge and camp/kitchen with a drawer sliding system
Trimming: Mandatory body mount chop, pinch weld hammered in, and plastics trimmed on fenders/bumpers
Bumpstops Extensions: Rule of thumb is have extensions as big as your lift.. so 3" lift.. 3" bumpstop extension. Keep in mind these might change if you have aftermarket bumpstops. Use a tape measure!
Other things that come to mind that you may be interested in modifying..
-LT links for the rear ( helps move rear axle back 1" from the door/body area)
-solid spacer for the rear diff instead of crush spacer (Nitro Toyota 8″ Solid Pinion Spacer)
-If LT rear make sure to get extended brake lines
-Spindle gusset swaybar edition for better strength
-Sway bar delete front and rear
-4.88 Gearing for the V8 down the road if stock ones i dont like
-While we all know that 35s put more stress on all the parts.. Would be a good idea to rebuild the LCAs aswell, with Poly bushings and Moog greasable lower ball joints, throw some BAMF skids on there aswell and got a solid setup, even replacing the tie rod ends is not a bad idea ( keep the stock parts as a trail replacement )
This was an overview of most posts in these forums and to my conclusion a great place to start your research for lifting your T4R.
This is also kudos to everyone who posted in here, much appreciated and this should help many more people... thank you everyone and lets go places! See ya on the trails.
Here is an overview of this forum... 2020 update!
What is needed to lift your 4th gen 4runner if you plan on running 35s! Please add or correct any info here and i will update it. Yes some of these are my personal preference but can use common sense to pick and choose your setup.
Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: Havent made a decision here yet
Wheels: Method 305 Matte Black 17x8.5 ( probably have to use 1.25 wheel spacers )
Bodylift: 1 inch BL ( to help with clearance )
Suspension: Radflo 2.5 front Coilovers w/ 650lb coils & extended travel, 2.5 rear extended with the OME 895 rear springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: Total Chaos Uniball
Caster correction: Minimum 4* and maximum 6.1*
Bumpers/Armor/Accessories: Will be doing a hybrid style front bumper with a winch, sliders w/ kickout, rear swing out, full skids, and RTT, down the road do a dometic fridge and camp/kitchen with a drawer sliding system
Trimming: Mandatory body mount chop, pinch weld hammered in, and plastics trimmed on fenders/bumpers
Bumpstops Extensions: Rule of thumb is have extensions as big as your lift.. so 3" lift.. 3" bumpstop extension. Keep in mind these might change if you have aftermarket bumpstops. Use a tape measure!
Other things that come to mind that you may be interested in modifying..
-LT links for the rear ( helps move rear axle back 1" from the door/body area)
-solid spacer for the rear diff instead of crush spacer (Nitro Toyota 8″ Solid Pinion Spacer)
-If LT rear make sure to get extended brake lines
-Spindle gusset swaybar edition for better strength
-Sway bar delete front and rear
-4.88 Gearing for the V8 down the road if stock ones i dont like
-While we all know that 35s put more stress on all the parts.. Would be a good idea to rebuild the LCAs aswell, with Poly bushings and Moog greasable lower ball joints, throw some BAMF skids on there aswell and got a solid setup, even replacing the tie rod ends is not a bad idea ( keep the stock parts as a trail replacement )
This was an overview of most posts in these forums and to my conclusion a great place to start your research for lifting your T4R.
This is also kudos to everyone who posted in here, much appreciated and this should help many more people... thank you everyone and lets go places! See ya on the trails.
Last edited:
BendRunner
New member
315/70/17 no body lift. Will fill out soec sheet soon !
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BendRunner
New member
Rear
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montijo505
Senior Member
I like how 35's have become so doable as more and more people share their builds. I may just have to bite the bullet when new tires are needed. I think I can fit them, but may need less aggressive wheels than what I currently have. Also might regear since I have the 1GR-FE.
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Jayson44
Member
finally got out on the trail to check for clearances. the rears stuff pretty well, but rub, so I gotta cut more from the rear bumper. but the fronts have no rubbing anywhere.
need to get some rear bumpstop extensions as well. at "full stuff" the stock has about 2" of space left to go.
J.
need to get some rear bumpstop extensions as well. at "full stuff" the stock has about 2" of space left to go.
J.
Tire Size: 315/75R16
Tire Make/Model: Falken Wildpeak M/T
Wheels: Motegi MR150 16X8 +0 4.5 backspacking
Bodylift: 1"
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3"
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC UCA
Caster correction: ~2.5 degrees
Bumpers: Lil B's Hybrid Front Bumper
Trimming: BMC, pinch welds, rear bumper
Bumpstop drop? 2" rear bump stops, stock front
Notes: V8 and stock gearing, Radflo 2.5 front coilovers and Dobinsons Long Travel in the rear, removed front sway bar
Does it still rub at full compression? Rubs fender flare at full compression, need to trim that.
Any issues? Tires rub frame at full lock and tire is extremely close to the UCA.
Anything you would do differently? Only thing different I would do differently is get lower offset wheels and higher rated front springs. Possibly re-gear later on.
Biggest pain-point with running 35's on the 4th Gen? Getting discount tire to correctly balance my tires after 3 different balances.
Are your links extended to push the axle further rearwards? Front Range Offroad Lower Link Kit and panhard bar
Tire Make/Model: Falken Wildpeak M/T
Wheels: Motegi MR150 16X8 +0 4.5 backspacking
Bodylift: 1"
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3"
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC UCA
Caster correction: ~2.5 degrees
Bumpers: Lil B's Hybrid Front Bumper
Trimming: BMC, pinch welds, rear bumper
Bumpstop drop? 2" rear bump stops, stock front
Notes: V8 and stock gearing, Radflo 2.5 front coilovers and Dobinsons Long Travel in the rear, removed front sway bar
Does it still rub at full compression? Rubs fender flare at full compression, need to trim that.
Any issues? Tires rub frame at full lock and tire is extremely close to the UCA.
Anything you would do differently? Only thing different I would do differently is get lower offset wheels and higher rated front springs. Possibly re-gear later on.
Biggest pain-point with running 35's on the 4th Gen? Getting discount tire to correctly balance my tires after 3 different balances.
Are your links extended to push the axle further rearwards? Front Range Offroad Lower Link Kit and panhard bar
Attachments
Jayson44
Member
do you have any pics of your rear fender/bumper trimming? also, how's it drive on the road with no front sway bar? do you have the rear sway on?
J.
JuniorPigeon
New member
Bumping this thread since I just made the step up, 315/70-17 on 17x9 -38. Will fill out specs as soon as I get rubbing sorted!
My question is how much/which BMC are people using? I have approx. 3" lift and a 1" body lift, caster corrected, with the typical cut bumper/flat pinch weld/BMC. Rub free with the old 295s but now I'm hitting the body mount and front bumper. I'll cut whatever I need off the bumper but I want to know what people are doing with the body mount. My OCD wants to be rub free again so I'm hoping that's an option.
My question is how much/which BMC are people using? I have approx. 3" lift and a 1" body lift, caster corrected, with the typical cut bumper/flat pinch weld/BMC. Rub free with the old 295s but now I'm hitting the body mount and front bumper. I'll cut whatever I need off the bumper but I want to know what people are doing with the body mount. My OCD wants to be rub free again so I'm hoping that's an option.
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