**35's on a 4th Gen - The Fitment Guide**

[Inv4drZm]

Maybe I forget what it's like to drive with 33's, but honestly I don't think there is much of a difference with long trip drivability between 35's and 37's. I would even say 4.88 gears + 37's make for easier interstate driving than stock geared 35's.

The only real difference between supporting mods for 35's and 37's are spacing bumpstops down an extra inch and moving the firewall. An LT kit just gets you some travel back and it might limit some firewall relocating but you'll still have to relocate it so it doesn't really save any fab time there.

I remember back in the day people were saying LT kits couldn't be daily driven.:bounce: I've driven my truck on 37's to the Rubicon, did a couple days of beating on my truck, and drove it back across the country just fine.

IMO 35's are the entry level offroad tire for these trucks. Unfortunately to wheel with them it requires at the very least a rebuilt rear axle if not a beefier axle altogether.

 

[aemravan]

Maybe I forget what it's like to drive with 33's, but honestly I don't think there is much of a difference with long trip drivability between 35's and 37's. I would even say 4.88 gears + 37's make for easier interstate driving than stock geared 35's.

The only real difference between supporting mods for 35's and 37's are spacing bumpstops down an extra inch and moving the firewall. An LT kit just gets you some travel back and it might limit some firewall relocating but you'll still have to relocate it so it doesn't really save any fab time there.

I remember back in the day people were saying LT kits couldn't be daily driven.:bounce: I've driven my truck on 37's to the Rubicon, did a couple days of beating on my truck, and drove it back across the country just fine.

IMO 35's are the entry level offroad tire for these trucks. Unfortunately to wheel with them it requires at the very least a rebuilt rear axle if not a beefier axle altogether.

Yup.. agreed with all of the above as well. In particular since I have the V8 lol. The only reason I regeared to 4.56 gears with my 35's wasn't because there was a noticeable difference, but because I was having lockers put in and it was a small extra add to go ahead and re-gear. Same with if I went to 37's.. the only reason I would go to 4.88 is because I'll most likely be building axles for it..

For a lot of the wheeling that I do here around Charlotte, the 35's with full travel that isn't limited by extended bump stops along with front/rear lockers gets me up anything I'm willing to try, and 33's will get you up some of the stuff , but I overall I agree, if you want anything actually capable of real trails, a 35 is an entry level tire size for these rigs.

I'm back to the SAS route potential at the moment IF i endup doing anything else crazy to my rig... I priced everything out today for a LT front that I would like to build and the cost is more than it would run me to build both Front & Rear axles for an SAS swap.... and that gets me both front and rear axles that I literally will never break with the wheeling I do lol

 

[Billynath1988]

Yup.. agreed with all of the above as well. In particular since I have the V8 lol. The only reason I regeared to 4.56 gears with my 35's wasn't because there was a noticeable difference, but because I was having lockers put in and it was a small extra add to go ahead and re-gear. Same with if I went to 37's.. the only reason I would go to 4.88 is because I'll most likely be building axles for it..

For a lot of the wheeling that I do here around Charlotte, the 35's with full travel that isn't limited by extended bump stops along with front/rear lockers gets me up anything I'm willing to try, and 33's will get you up some of the stuff , but I overall I agree, if you want anything actually capable of real trails, a 35 is an entry level tire size for these rigs.

I'm back to the SAS route potential at the moment IF i end up doing anything else crazy to my rig... I priced everything out today for a LT front that I would like to build and the cost is more than it would run me to build both Front & Rear axles for an SAS swap.... and that gets me both front and rear axles that I literally will never break with the wheeling I do lol

If you were to do it again, would you have gone 4:88s even with the 35s? I sort of enjoy the low rpm highway cruising, and never really felt like I absolutely needed more power band, but being more in the powerband with instant torque is also nice lol.. I do notice it being slightly low for wheeling even in the lowest gear vs where it was.

Isnt it true that you get more "contact" or "meat" of the gears when running 456 vs 4:88's?

 

[aemravan]

If you were to do it again, would you have gone 4:88s even with the 35s? I sort of enjoy the low rpm highway cruising, and never really felt like I absolutely needed more power band, but being more in the powerband with instant torque is also nice lol.. I do notice it being slightly low for wheeling even in the lowest gear vs where it was.

Isnt it true that you get more "contact" or "meat" of the gears when running 456 vs 4:88's?

Honestly... if I didn't wheel my rig (granted only occasionally, but still) I probably would never even have gone to 4.56 gearing with the V8 and 35's. The highway mpg was awesome when it was underdriven compared to factory gearing, and for the type of street driving I do I honestly didn't notice a difference at all. If this was a V6 platform with 35's then I think the lack of the lower-end torque would for sure make it a need to go to 4.56 gears.

As far as more meatier gears, yes, the higher you go in gearing, the weaker your gear set becomes, granted the difference between 4.56 & 4.88 and the sort of wheeling that would be done would make this a very marginal difference, and I wouldn't really expect 4.88 gearing to be at a VERY high risk of failure, but you also have to take into account that this is already on a fairly small 8" diff setup.


So no, I wouldn't go 4.88. And honestly, what I have considered doing in the future if I do end up with 37's on this thing is keeping the gearing at 4.56 ratio but figuring out what I would need to do in order to fit something like a taco box under the rig so that I could have a true LOW gear when crawling, but not sacrifice any of the street driving in between. I feel like with the V8 platform that would give best-case mpg for highway driving, while retaining added gear beef but also giving you the ability to slow-speed crawl offroad.

 

[Fern]

With the 255/85/17 I manage to avoid to the frame rub, but everything else you said.... yes. lol

35s look great, they go down the road fine. If you want to wheel it hard without insane cutting or modding, id stay with a 34 or under. just my opinion.

Mickey Thompson? I can't find those anywhere.

 

[Billynath1988]

Mickey Thompson? I can't find those anywhere.

Tough to get like anything else, but they are out there.

Mickey Thompson | Baja Boss A/T

 

[DylanB]

I’ve got a white 4th Gen with the same wheels and I’m just getting started on my build. This thing is beautiful! Thanks for the posts!

Tire Size: 35x12.50R17
Tire Make/Model: Yokohama Geolandar M/T G003
Wheels: 17x7.5 +15 offset + 1.25" Spidertrax spacers
Bodylift: No
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3" Dobinsons extended front/long travel rear
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC
Caster correction: LCA full caster forward with Taco Tabs, SPC UCAs at setting G
Bumpers: front True North Fab hybrid - rear - tube bumper/carrier (soon)
Trimming: Already had a BMC for 295s, pinch weld was beat up front even though I didn't really need it back then. Rear mudguards trimmed but still hits the cover - will be trimming when I do the rear bumper.
Bumpstop drop? Durobumps F/R, Rear 2" bumpstop extensions for LT
Notes: Clears the BMC pretty easily but I think I get a little frame rub on full lock. Not sure I would do anything different - need to look into wheel offsets a bit more. Getting the proper alignment is the most crucial to get the front tires as fr forward as they can possibly be - maxing the LCA cam bolts to rear outboard and front inboard + SPC setting G gives you as most as you can get. No links on her yet, will probably try 3/16" extended soon.

 

[Runn4est]

2008 V6

Tire Size: 315/70/17

Tire Make/Model: Cooper STT Pro

Wheels: 17x7.5 +15 offset + 1.25" spacers

Bodylift: No

Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 2.75-3 front, 2.5 rear. Toytec Aluma 2.5 series

Aftermarket UCA's: SPC

Caster correction: LCA full caster forward, SPC UCAs at setting F

Bumpers: stock

Trimming: relocated the washer fluid. Have a BMC. Took a tapered cut off the back of the rear wheel well from 0-1.125 approximately. Hammered back the pinch weld in the rear. Took 1 3/8 all around of the front flares including the sheet metal on the fenders. Hammered back pinch weld and part of fire wall. Relocated intake.
Bumpstop drop? Durobumps F/R, Rear

Notes: I rub the frame at full lock to the right. So far that's been pretty easy to avoid. At higher speed compression while turning, the front will kiss a section of the upper inner wheel well. I'll need to hammer that a bit to prevent that.

 

[Kal_el]

3” OME lift
Bilstien 5100
Freedom Off-road UCA
OEM TRD Off-road Wheels
17x7.5 Offset: +15mm
BF Goodrich AT Baja Champ KO2 315/70R17
BMC and front bumper trim. Cut the pinch welds and hammered back a bit of the frame.

 

[grantorresmo]

First of all thank you for all that shared there setup, without it I wouldn’t have the confidence to purchase 35s!



Tire Size: 315/70/17
Tire Make/Model: BFG KO2
Wheels: 17x7.5 +15 offset &
front 1.25” Spidertrax spacers
Bodylift: No
Approx. Suspension lift setting over stock: 3" Front bilstein shocks with t4r 5th gen springs/ Rear Freedom offroad shocks and springs.
Aftermarket UCA's: SPC
Caster correction: SPC UCAs at setting F
Trimming: BMC, front and rear wheel pinch weld, mudguard area front and rear, front bumper
Bumpstop drop? Stock for now
Notes: It’s only rubbing a little in the front when making a sharp u turn.

 

[Kenny04]

Rancho quick lift with daystar 1 inch puck front, freedom off-road upper control arms, diff drop, energy suspension bump stops, box out rear billstein b8 2.2 inch lift springs, rancho 9000 rear shocks, fuel 17x9 -12 painted red wrapped in 315/70/17 duratracs. A lot of offer up Amazon and rock auto pieced together.

 

[ThatRed4thGen]

Is a regear necessary to run turdy-fives?

 

[aemravan]

Is a regear necessary to run turdy-fives?

on the 03 V8, I honestly didn't feel much of a difference before and after regear as far as torque and city driving was concerned. Never felt like I was lacking power, but I also never mash the pedal to the floor and expect to go fast when driving the 4runner.

I re-geared to 4.56 gears mainly to get a bit more torque back on the trails.. actually ended up losing mpg (not surprisingly) after re-gearing closer to the stock ratio vs what I ended up with when running 35's.

 

[y=mx+b]

Is a regear necessary to run turdy-fives?

I have stock gears with a v6 on 35x10.5s. Wheel and tire combined weight is at about 96lbs.

I'd say regear would be advised, but not necessarily required. I can definitely tell it accelerates a lot slower than with a stock size tire and has to drop a gear or unlock the converter in 5th going up hills on the highway. Its still a lot faster compared to my 67klb work vehicle lol

 

[grantorresmo]

Is a regear necessary to run turdy-fives?

Regear is not necessary. I’d say transmission cooler and better stopping power is more necessary

 

[DSJ1997]

2006 4Runner V6

I have been running 35's for about 2.5 years now

Tire Size: 35x12.50R17

Tire Make/Model: Yokohama X-AT

Wheels: SCS Ray10 17x9 -38mm offset

Bodylift: No

Suspension Lift: 3" front and rear

Aftermarket UCA's: SPC

Caster correction: SPC's at setting F

Bumpers: CBI Front and Rear Bumpers

Trimming: Cab mount chop and pinch weld seam flattened. Front fenders and flares have been cut 1.5". Washer fluid tank relocated

Bumpstops: Front bumpstops are Energy 8.9104. Energy's website states they are for the rear but work perfectly up front. The rear bumpstops are Timbren active offroad with Toytec extensions

Notes: Since trimming the front fenders I can only manage front rubbing if I'm fully flexed (Like 2 wheels off the ground). The rears don't rub on the front of the wells or the top but unfortunately, they rub on the CBI bumper. Unless you are prepared to cut your $3K bumper I would not recommend this one for 35s.

The most common issue I have come across is my front wheel bearings. The -38 mm offset puts a lot of leverage on them and combined with the weight of 35's the bearings wear very quickly.

The fuel economy is poor as expected. Depending on how I drive it will range from 15-23L/100km or roughly 10-16 mpg. Future plans to re-gear should aid consumption.

Extended rear links would be great but the current rubbing on the CBI would need to be fixed first.

Anyways, still loving the 35's and dont regret it!

 

[momo.75]

Looks awesome!:first:

 

[deetwo]

Have you had to replace your wheel bearings yet? I was looking for a recommendation for good wheel bearings for the front.

 

[aemravan]

​

Have you had to replace your wheel bearings yet? I was looking for a recommendation for good wheel bearings for the front.

For the rear bearings, this is what I settled on, apparently these are "factory quality" if not exact same bearing that toyota uses "Koyo rear wheel hub bearing kit: Toyota 4runner 2003-2020" (This is just an example Koyo Rear Wheel Hub Bearing Kit Fits: Toyota 4Runner 2003-2021 (Left and Right) | eBay)
Contains:
2 x 9030183002
1 x 4246060010 Koyo
1 x 4245060050 Koyo
2 x 9020844001
2 x 4242360050
2 x 9052041019
2 x 9031058003

For the front bearings I picked up a set of these TRQ ones on the forums for a really good price to swap on a year or two ago: https://www.1aauto.com/toyota-lexus...ixOzA8_WlJd9uuA6Wckvx0jHlSDoSjUYaAsEwEALw_wcB

 

[ifallalot]

I'm reacquiring my 03 SR5 V6 4x4 from my dad, and right now the plan is to put 35s on and everything else that requires.

Besides being a little apprehensive about since it has 230k miles (my other option is to DD the Runner and build a Jeep) I've gotten enough info from this thread and friends to have a pretty good handle on what i'm about to do

My biggest question is wheel offset. Does it make clearance easier to have a negative offset or will I be able to run an 8.5" wheel on a 0 offset without spacers? I always feel like negative offset makes things easier but i'm new to IFS