37+ on ifs?

[JamesDean91]

Hello,

So I've recently seen a really nice runner on 38s. He had full solomotorsports long travel on it and it was sick.
My question is to anyone else who runs there kit or a similar kit and run 37s or bigger, how reliable it is and if you would choose that over a sas? Seems like there kit is sweet and offers alot specially the kit is in the ballpark range of what it will cost to finish getting the parts for my sas..

Hell could probably sell what I do have and get a currie f9 center section and match it to my rear spider 9 I have sitting already

 

[Jedrattle]

It can be done but to make it last it would take some big money. High dollar CV's, a stronger diff, custom spindles. Look at KOH rigs these days. I'd like to see some pics of that runner on 38's

 

[Doc2012]

Danahoe(ICON) Coilovers up front. 63 Chevys in the back.

A LOT of trimming.

Stay away from the HMMWV tires. They're a ***** to balance. Went through two wheel bearings before I said f it and took them off.

 

[Kurtis]

These are not the same.

If you don't wheel then it really doesn't matter what tire size you go with. If you are going to wheel you are going to break shit without high dollar front end parts and even then you are limited.

 

[BrandonF]

These are not the same.


If you don't wheel then it really doesn't matter what tire size you go with. If you are going to wheel you are going to break shit without high dollar front end parts and even then you are limited.

Exactly, and if someone want 37's and doesn't wheel, they're just a straight up poser

 

[JamesDean91]

It can be done but to make it last it would take some big money. High dollar CV's, a stronger diff, custom spindles. Look at KOH rigs these days. I'd like to see some pics of that runner on 38's

Here's the pics off fb.

And I wheel plenty, I have a pretty good start to a sas but the more I think about it I want to build a early bronco and the runner will be my expo/dd/weekend bug out rig. So I think the ifs is going to stay.

 

[IBallEngineer]

Well that can't be wheeled, Zero upward travel available. Shoot I don't know if you could even make a turn with that thing!

 

[Kurtis]

Here's the pics off fb.

And I wheel plenty, I have a pretty good start to a sas but the more I think about it I want to build a early bronco and the runner will be my expo/dd/weekend bug out rig. So I think the ifs is going to stay.

mmm...yeah...Not calling you a liar but I'll believe the wheeling part when I see how it works on something other than Humps and Bumps at Walker Valley.

 

[TCMach]

Can I ask why you want 37s? It's going to be a dog even with that supercharger unless you gear the crap out of it.

I don't really see the point in going long travel when your going to stick tires that big on it and get rid of half your travel. If it's just to get it tall enough to fit 37s just do a bracket lift, you won't have to do half the trimming you would have to with long travel

 

[JamesDean91]

Well that can't be wheeled, Zero upward travel available. Shoot I don't know if you could even make a turn with that thing!

I doubt that it is at ride height, and who needs up travel? He'll I came from a rig with 2" of up travel because I didn't want to jack my truck sky high. Now I know it defeats the purpose of the usual use of long travel but if he limited the up travel and and kept the ride height low he would have tons of drop. Or is my thinking wrong?

mmm...yeah...Not calling you a liar but I'll believe the wheeling part when I see how it works on something other than Humps and Bumps at Walker Valley.

It's not my truck? I said I wheel I didn't say the guy building that truck did. And honestly I would stick with a 35/37. Most the trails around here are build for rigs like that. However more and more jk's and jeeps in general on 40s and toyota on 40s are making the trails less desirable in the smaller tire packages..

 

[JamesDean91]

Can I ask why you want 37s? It's going to be a dog even with that supercharger unless you gear the crap out of it.

I don't really see the point in going long travel when your going to stick tires that big on it and get rid of half your travel. If it's just to get it tall enough to fit 37s just do a bracket lift, you won't have to do half the trimming you would have to with long travel

Read post above about why 37s.

As far as making clearance I have the shop and some awesome friends who could help knock out a dirtco look.

And gearing I was planning on throwing in a set of ford 9s with 5.13 gears. I can either go 4.88s or 5.29s if i keep the ifs and be good to go of course would have to do something about my rear axle width... or go custom and get a currie f9 ifs section and make it work then throw in my spidertrax 9 rear..

Also I have been in and owed 1 yota on 40s with 5.29 gears and a hopped up 22re. It was no power house but did great offroad.. I'd put money on a sc 3.4 and 4.88s being able to smoke 37s down the road.

 

[the great him]

that runner is being built for snow and deep snow... that looks like one of those icelandic trucks. yeah guys around here are all going to 37"+ tires on their rigs, because they cant wheel. nost of the guys i run with have 35s and can get around just fine. only a couple of them have 37s, and we think they are just posing and talk a lot. i know what you mean buy people running 40s and tearing crap up and making trails hard, but thats just life. i ran 305s on my 4runner and never found those trails impassable, it just challenged my driving skills and i still made it up/through them. being locked front and rear helped tremendously, but it was still most of the time doable in open/open and a winch -dont be afraid to winch.

now if you are looking to build your runner into more of a overland/expo/bugout vehicle you might want head over to expedition portal and start looking around there. expo rigs are built with simplicity in mind. the more complex or intricate you make it the greater the chance of failure or harder you make it to fix. its so much better to be able to go down to any parts store and buy a replacement part then to have things custom made and special ordered to fit your one-off vehicle, as those probably wont be readily available. the less complex things are the less chance of breakdowns. i can tell you for a fact that a mildly build 4runner with a single locker will go 90% of places you want to go, and 100% that you need to go. beyond that, you need to be looking at a whole new type of vehicle.

 

[Dirtco]

I'm in the process of putting 36" Irok's under my 4Runner that measure closer to a 37" tire…

Let me start by saying this is not a decision that you take lightly, it’s a lot of work and there is no going back. I will always be stuck running a 36” or 37”, anything smaller would just look stupid with the amount of body I have trimmed. There is no way that 4Runner on 38’s can go wheeling (even snow wheeling) the way it sets, he has a whole lot of cutting before it can leave the driveway. Hell, I even had to cut down my body mounts because the tires hit them. With a LT kit you might get away with cutting a little less of the firewall, but it’s still going to be a lot. The rear will have to be cut too, so say goodbye to your fender flairs and cladding.





As for the front drivetrain, bare minimum you’re going to need gears, an ARB locker to get rid of the weak spider gears, and aftermarket CV’s with stronger outer joints. I could write a novel on the subject, but I’ve covered most of the issue’s in my build thread (link below).

One more thing, the primary reason I went with these tires was for snow wheeling, not rocks. If your worried about running trails that the guy’s on 40’s have dug out you would be better to SAS and run 37”-40” tires. You can make a SAS rig handle great with the proper shock tuning and geometry.

 

[Dirtco]

BTW - I'm not trying to discourage you, I was just stating the facts. I've been wheeling my rig for a few years now, and I have have a pretty good idea what I can and can't do with it. This last round of work is based off of where I take the truck on a regular basis, and I understand that there will be weak points in the drivetrain. You can overcome every single problem, but it's going to cost you time and money.

My advice would be to look at where the 4Runner will be used 75% of the time, and your budget (both time and money), then build the 4Runner around that. I REALLY want long travel, but do I need it? After adding up all the parts there is a good chance I'll be stuck with mid-travel for quite a while.

No matter what direction this goes I'm looking forward to following the progress!

 

[IBallEngineer]

Read post above about why 37s.

As far as making clearance I have the shop and some awesome friends who could help knock out a dirtco look.

And gearing I was planning on throwing in a set of ford 9s with 5.13 gears. I can either go 4.88s or 5.29s if i keep the ifs and be good to go of course would have to do something about my rear axle width... or go custom and get a currie f9 ifs section and make it work then throw in my spidertrax 9 rear..

Also I have been in and owed 1 yota on 40s with 5.29 gears and a hopped up 22re. It was no power house but did great offroad.. I'd put money on a sc 3.4 and 4.88s being able to smoke 37s down the road.

I'm not going to get in to the discussion on 3.4 power/torque, but I don't see any smoke in your future, :whipping2 .

Still I almost get where you are going with your ideas. When I decided to drive a 3rd gen for a while then convert it after a few years, I started with a similar plan. I used my FJ62 as a daily driver for almost 17 years and I figured I was done with leafs, ridiculous ground clearance and climbing in, and out of, a big tire(35) truck.

I had this idea I would build a low CG well set up, locked and geared, double transfer case 33" tire sleeper. But just before I bought mine, I saw a SASd, converted 2WD with right hand drop and decided that was way cool. So I bought the 2WD thinking if I never built it, I'd still have a decent little commuter.

After a year and a half on this forum, I'm still leaning toward something like that, but stay with a 33 or 35. The benefits of a 37 are small compared to the added stresses and costs involved. Hey, if you are dead set on it, more power to you,:bash:, but don't say we didn't warn you, haha.

If you are going to build a big bad Bronco, keep the runner manageable. Or build it and let's all see what we can learn, on your dime of course!

:cheers:

 

[JamesDean91]

I'm not going to get in to the discussion on 3.4 power/torque, but I don't see any smoke in your future, :whipping2 .

Still I almost get where you are going with your ideas. When I decided to drive a 3rd gen for a while then convert it after a few years, I started with a similar plan. I used my FJ62 as a daily driver for almost 17 years and I figured I was done with leafs, ridiculous ground clearance and climbing in, and out of, a big tire(35) truck.

I had this idea I would build a low CG well set up, locked and geared, double transfer case 33" tire sleeper. But just before I bought mine, I saw a SASd, converted 2WD with right hand drop and decided that was way cool. So I bought the 2WD thinking if I never built it, I'd still have a decent little commuter.

After a year and a half on this forum, I'm still leaning toward something like that, but stay with a 33 or 35. The benefits of a 37 are small compared to the added stresses and costs involved. Hey, if you are dead set on it, more power to you,:bash:, but don't say we didn't warn you, haha.

If you are going to build a big bad Bronco, keep the runner manageable. Or build it and let's all see what we can learn, on your dime of course!

:cheers:

I'll end the 3.4 debate by saying you may be right but sofar I am very impressed with what I have done to it.

And yeah the big bad bronco has been a pipe dream for years, 66-77 and having a set of spidertrax housing sitting in the shop really makes me want to reconsider putting them into the runner.
I'm assuming your talking about Scottys rig and his is the same reason I wanted to go to a solid axle. However at the end of the day I'm not going to want to take a full bodied rig down the trails I'm used to. So go fast stuff and a comfortable dd is where I'm leaning towards.
And I do know my trucks limits now I bypass the hard stuff and crawl the medium stuff. I think investing in a crawl box, axle gears, front locker and maybe even just solomotorsports fabricated spindles would make my truck more then capable.

 

[Kurtis]

For what it's worth in 2014 a kid and his dad raced in KOH EMC in stock mod class (I think) with a first gen 4Runner still on IFS. They were running 35s, RCV shafts and an 8" IFS clamshell. I asked about the 8" diff but they couldn't tell me much about it except it was an 8" diff. I can't remember if they finished or not but I do remember seeing them at least 1/2 way through the race at Chocolate Thunder.

 

[JamesDean91]

For what it's worth in 2014 a kid and his dad raced in KOH EMC in stock mod class (I think) with a first gen 4Runner still on IFS. They were running 35s, RCV shafts and an 8" IFS clamshell. I asked about the 8" diff but they couldn't tell me much about it except it was an 8" diff. I can't remember if they finished or not but I do remember seeing them at least 1/2 way through the race at Chocolate Thunder.

Not sure if anyone here knows who Tim Lund is, but he runs blaze land long travel on his 1st gen 4runner with arb and rcv. I got to ride and experience that truck once it did everything amazing compared to his sons solid axle first gen 4runner. The only difference is blaze land is more of a true mid travel and he doesn't make crap for us 3rd gen guys

 

[4Running Daily]

For what it's worth in 2014 a kid and his dad raced in KOH EMC in stock mod class (I think) with a first gen 4Runner still on IFS. They were running 35s, RCV shafts and an 8" IFS clamshell. I asked about the 8" diff but they couldn't tell me much about it except it was an 8" diff. I can't remember if they finished or not but I do remember seeing them at least 1/2 way through the race at Chocolate Thunder.

I've watched an FJ cruiser lifted on 35's make it through Chocolate Thunder.