3rd Gen 1999 4R Catalytic broken stud removal. Please help!!
- Thread starter hawkcharmer
- Start date
jbtvt
New member
That stud should still be available, try part # 90116-10149 or enter your frame # at Japanese cars online catalogs you can prob figure out the bracket bolt there also if you find an image for the part.
Should be a 10mm stud either way so 3/8 drill bit max, but once you get close in size you might be able to get it with an ezout without snapping it. Lots of heat, lube, and the right size tap socket would be needed. Cobalt drill bits can handle a little more heat but even a basic hss bit should be fine as long as you use enough cutting oil, just no harbor freight bits. Some of the Chinese cobalt bits are more brittle than basic hss, and will snap easily which you def don't want, stick with US made bits or a big box brand. Drill at low-mid rpms for 10-15 seconds then re-oil. Get the right oil at Fastenal, or the plumbing aisle at home depot, motor oil isn't the same. If you go too close in drill bit sizing from one to the next the bit will sink too quickly and catch the edges and snap, see that happen a lot with new hires, so be aware of that and get ready to let off the trigger if it binds, and use a cordless drill if you have one.
Should be a 10mm stud either way so 3/8 drill bit max, but once you get close in size you might be able to get it with an ezout without snapping it. Lots of heat, lube, and the right size tap socket would be needed. Cobalt drill bits can handle a little more heat but even a basic hss bit should be fine as long as you use enough cutting oil, just no harbor freight bits. Some of the Chinese cobalt bits are more brittle than basic hss, and will snap easily which you def don't want, stick with US made bits or a big box brand. Drill at low-mid rpms for 10-15 seconds then re-oil. Get the right oil at Fastenal, or the plumbing aisle at home depot, motor oil isn't the same. If you go too close in drill bit sizing from one to the next the bit will sink too quickly and catch the edges and snap, see that happen a lot with new hires, so be aware of that and get ready to let off the trigger if it binds, and use a cordless drill if you have one.
Romeo1
Member
Just to follow up on this old thread, I went through this job the last couple of days.
Should have taken photos looking back.
One stud that had the wrong nut came out with the nut. Second one after heating and quenching with a jug of cold water caused it to pop with a vise grip through the wheel well. Then was able to use a stud remover.
Last one (front stud cali style) I effed up. I got greedy and didn't do a water jug quench. Only the spray bottle. Then Hit it with the stud remover on a long extension and broke that prick with about 3/8" work to grab. Knew that shit was gonna happen. The second stud, I took out through the fender.
Tried lots of stuff. Special Swedish pliers, lots of PB and wd40 specialist penetrant. More heat. Finally, what worked was getting it very hot with a rapid quench about a gallon of refrigerator water. Got it to pop. By then the upper and the lower threads was pretty well mangled. After Test drilling on one of the old studs on the bench, I discovered that the stainless studs were fairly soft to cut.
After thinking about it, we elected to cut off the top on the stud smooth. My brother center drilled a pilot with a left hand bit the bottom and did it perfectly. Went up 1 more size, then Hit it with an extractor, and by that point we could get penetrate through the stud and manifold threads. Being very careful with it we finally got it extracted with all of the manifold threads intact.
It sits thread chased and ready to go back in with magnaflow cats. No manifold damage or scars. Just sore hands. Damn arthritis....too young for that shit.
Looking back, I should've just focused on more heat and more quenching until we get it to pop. Then Hit with penetration oil. Mapp Gas torch, and lots of water and a spray bottle nearby to keep things from smoking off for burning worked very well. Pull the sway bar gets you lots more room. I took off the wheel and rubber fender cover inside the wheel well for more access. A good pair of vice grips with a long nose ended up being the trick To get it to pop initially. Once you do that then a stud remover worked best. Vice grips choose the threats away and you can't get traction.
After having drilled it, I would not be scared to drill it again. Cut, smooth, centerpunch and go carefully working your way up. The metal stud drilled very easy.
Should have taken photos looking back.
One stud that had the wrong nut came out with the nut. Second one after heating and quenching with a jug of cold water caused it to pop with a vise grip through the wheel well. Then was able to use a stud remover.
Last one (front stud cali style) I effed up. I got greedy and didn't do a water jug quench. Only the spray bottle. Then Hit it with the stud remover on a long extension and broke that prick with about 3/8" work to grab. Knew that shit was gonna happen. The second stud, I took out through the fender.
Tried lots of stuff. Special Swedish pliers, lots of PB and wd40 specialist penetrant. More heat. Finally, what worked was getting it very hot with a rapid quench about a gallon of refrigerator water. Got it to pop. By then the upper and the lower threads was pretty well mangled. After Test drilling on one of the old studs on the bench, I discovered that the stainless studs were fairly soft to cut.
After thinking about it, we elected to cut off the top on the stud smooth. My brother center drilled a pilot with a left hand bit the bottom and did it perfectly. Went up 1 more size, then Hit it with an extractor, and by that point we could get penetrate through the stud and manifold threads. Being very careful with it we finally got it extracted with all of the manifold threads intact.
It sits thread chased and ready to go back in with magnaflow cats. No manifold damage or scars. Just sore hands. Damn arthritis....too young for that shit.
Looking back, I should've just focused on more heat and more quenching until we get it to pop. Then Hit with penetration oil. Mapp Gas torch, and lots of water and a spray bottle nearby to keep things from smoking off for burning worked very well. Pull the sway bar gets you lots more room. I took off the wheel and rubber fender cover inside the wheel well for more access. A good pair of vice grips with a long nose ended up being the trick To get it to pop initially. Once you do that then a stud remover worked best. Vice grips choose the threats away and you can't get traction.
After having drilled it, I would not be scared to drill it again. Cut, smooth, centerpunch and go carefully working your way up. The metal stud drilled very easy.
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TheDurk
Elite Member
The 10 in the first two digits of the second half of the p/n indicates 10mm. Works for bolts, nuts and washers, too. I was amazed I got all three of mine to come off with the impact when I did my frame swap. Soaked with PB Blaster the day before and off they came. Obviously, my rust was bad or I would not have been doing a frame swap. '99 Cali type.
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Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Rather than start a new thread, I'll piggyback off this one as there is lots of good info and advice.
So, last weekend I got out my fists of ham and proceeded to start the job of replacing both cats in my 2000 CA-spec rig. 2 of the 3 header flange studs snapped. At least they broke after the nuts backed off enough to leave nubs I was able to cross-thread some other nuts onto so I could drive away. What is the logical approach to removing and replacing the studs on the flange while it is in place? I'd sorta like to grind/cut the nubs flat and drill out the studs completely with a low-profile cordless drill and some high-quality bits and replace them with a high-quality nut/bolt set, but that's probably foolish. On the other hand, this is my forever vehicle, and I don't really care about keeping things original. The stud nubs are not long enough to use a 2-nut extraction, even if I could cut new threads. Heat? Reading through this thread, I'm kind of torn. I have no access to a welder and barely anywhere to work on my rig. It HAS to be drivable after every job I do, because I use the Human Resources parking spots at my work when they are vacant on the weekends LOL and I don't need any heat from them.
Edit - Borrowed Charlie's picture - same flange
So, last weekend I got out my fists of ham and proceeded to start the job of replacing both cats in my 2000 CA-spec rig. 2 of the 3 header flange studs snapped. At least they broke after the nuts backed off enough to leave nubs I was able to cross-thread some other nuts onto so I could drive away. What is the logical approach to removing and replacing the studs on the flange while it is in place? I'd sorta like to grind/cut the nubs flat and drill out the studs completely with a low-profile cordless drill and some high-quality bits and replace them with a high-quality nut/bolt set, but that's probably foolish. On the other hand, this is my forever vehicle, and I don't really care about keeping things original. The stud nubs are not long enough to use a 2-nut extraction, even if I could cut new threads. Heat? Reading through this thread, I'm kind of torn. I have no access to a welder and barely anywhere to work on my rig. It HAS to be drivable after every job I do, because I use the Human Resources parking spots at my work when they are vacant on the weekends LOL and I don't need any heat from them.
Edit - Borrowed Charlie's picture - same flange
T4R2014
Elite Member
I noticed with these downpipe nuts they only give you one opportunity to remove them and reinstall. Trying to remove them one more time will result in this thread. I believe the factory nuts "bite" into the stud to prevent vibration and temperature from loosening them.
Having had this happen twice with a shortness of time we just sawzalled slits and that relieved pressure to remove the stud without excessive human suffering. Nut and bolt afterwards.
Having had this happen twice with a shortness of time we just sawzalled slits and that relieved pressure to remove the stud without excessive human suffering. Nut and bolt afterwards.
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Thanks, [MENTION=71030]T4R2014[/MENTION] My instinct is also to just extract the studs and re-bolt with high-quality secure hardware. Having followed this forum for years, I thought I'd make an attempt to 'do the right thing' LOL. If you don't mind, can you clarify what your technique was to get the studs out? 'Slits' on the top of the studs or below? I was going to drill pilot holes and go at it with a big bit....Thank you!
T4R2014
Elite Member
Endlessblockades
Senior Member
Wow. Yeah, you were on a bigger task than I am, for sure. I think I am going to come up from the bottom laying on my back with a box of high-quality bits and eat some metal shavings while I cut off and then drill out the 2 broken studs. I may try an extractor bit of some kind. I have one intact stud, so I'll probably chase the threads and leave it there and use stainless nuts and bolts on the other 2. Our flanges are a bit different in design. Thanks for the video link - good watch.
