3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

Hey guys, new to the forums. Found this 1998 4runner Limited. Its got 267,000 miles. No tears in seats, newly upholstered drivers seat. All the windows and locks work. Everything looks great, light surface rust underneath. I'm waiting for the seller to send me the list of dealer upgraded parts. It looks like original lower ball joints and factory radiator. I also saw grime build-up from the valve cover. Seller reports no transmission problems, but I'm prepared to replace the radiator if I decide to buy. My question being, is $5000 a good deal? He originally had it for 6,000 but I'm sure he wants to get rid of it now as its been on the market for a while. It also comes with a rod rack. Thanks for any help, I greatly appreciate it. (sorry for HUGE pictures) Also timing belt replaced at 220,000 miles.

It’s a nice looking 4Runner.

The photos we’d like to see are some undercarriage shots. Look very closely under there, especially the rear half. The rear lower control arm area is the first and worst to rust. Don’t buy yourself a rust project unless you want one. Hopefully it is just surface rust which is to be expected.

Pricing is so regional. I can’t comment.

Count on Lbj’s, rad, likely suspension, fluids, if no service records exist. Most seem to spend 1 to 2,000 getting a new purchase up to date and fixing the little problems. But this depends on the condition of it.

Good luck.
 
New to the forum (just posted in new member's thread), but wanted to personally thank the authors of this buyer's guide. I found it extremely helpful and comprehensive in my search.
 
Hi, new user here but I've browsed many of the forums before. Many of the links in the New Owners Section redirect to nowhere (404: not found)

Great posts otherwise tho, much appreciated.
 
Great Forum!

After many years away from owning a 4Runner, I've decided to come back into the fold. I used to own a 1995 SR5 4x4 that I bought with a handful of miles many moons ago, and loved that thing...it saved my neck a few times in the unforgiving Colorado winters. Probably not going back to a 2nd gen, but I have found a nice, pampered Florida-bought and owned 1998 Limited that I am considering. Its not a 4x4, and its an automatic, but its super-clean, rust-free, has had a ton of maintenance done recently. Price isn't too bad, but what might seal the deal for me is it has the rare dealer-installed 1st Gen TRD Supercharger. Looking forward to reading up on all the good stuff here.
 
Maintenance Schedule

Hey guys, never posted before. Bought a t4r 8000 km ago, put together an excel maintenance schedule to keep track of what might explode on the ol' girl.

figured someone might find it useful. feel free to REV and reattach? Something tells me some people here may know a thing or two about 4runners ....:lock1:
 

Attachments

Thoughts/suggestin on initial maintenance plan for new owner?

Hi all - This post is a goldmine and Ceebly’s log is nicely organized.

I expect to soon be the 3rd owner for a 2000 SR5 with ~234k miles that's been outfitted and overlanded by the 2nd owners for (20k trip in South America). They kept pretty good records from their preparation (2015+) and trip (2016-17). I’ve gone through a bunch of threads, but I’m interested in the community's take on what to inspect carefully, what maintenance you would do on day 1 or in the next 30k miles, and what you would defer, for this specific 4runner. Intended purpose is light overlanding and the goal is maximizing vehicle longevity. Plan and questions in bold

Emissions: last smog 2/2020, current owner is getting it smogged pre-sale, he’s working on the driving pattern due to a recent dead battery. Try to be patient.

Rust: CA car (except trip) underside looked good to my untrained eye but still 21 yr old. Rooftop tent rack could use remediation. Temclad on spots observed and/or fluid film?

Fluids & filters: Most seem to need it, Replace Coolant, Oil, Transmission fluid, brake, power steering fluid, transfer case oil, front and rear differential gear oil, oil filter, air filter, cabin air filter. Recommended intervals post. Wait on fuel filter (205k)

Radiator and hoses
(162k) : replaced with OEM, relocated overflow to make space for 2nd battery. Done in 2015 - when to re-do, 2023? 2025?

Batteries (setup 162k) and replacement (235k): 1 red top and 1 yellow top optima battery, solenoid shutoff, fuses and 4g wiring to 12V fridge/cooler and inverter. Original alternator, Consider brushings and slip rings as PM? Inspect big 3 wiring and fuses. Measure voltages when idle and driving.

Timing belt (163k): new cover, belt, and fan clutch mount. Owner suspects water pump was at that time, but not explicitly noted in records. Repeat at 260k? WP, tensioner and idle too.

Steering rack / ITRs / OTRs / LBJs (163k)
: OEM, work by owner.
Upper Ball Joins and UBJ bushings (178k): OEM, work by owner.
Right CV, both LBJs, steering knuckle, right wheel bearing, front shocks, right speed sensors. (221k accident) Inspect

MAF sensor, PCV valve, throttle body, IAC->TB gasket, TB -> plenum gasket (165k, 2015) IAC(175k): Replaced. Clean MAF, replace PCV.

Brakes (164k ‘05 Tundra 231mm swap) : (189k) rear cylinder (218k) front pads and rotors Inspect. Replace lines as PM?

Suspension (164k): Bilstein 4600 shocks and OME 880/906 springs. (186k), 1.5’ spacer added to rear, 1” overall lift and + 1” rake unloaded. No record of sway bar bushing or ends. Inspect, could be tired ~180-->200k overlanding fully loaded (~1500lbs) on rough road. Front shocks (221k)

Rear wheel bearing and axle seals: (189k) replaced. Inner CV axle (181k) replaced with remanufactured. Inspect.

Drive Belt
(191k): Replaced. Tension, replace at 250k

Starter (200k): Replaced

Tires (202k): LT265/75R-16 BFGOODRICH ALL-TERRAIN T/A KO2 E. Balance & rotate. Alignment - pulls slightly to the right during test drive. Some vibration at 70+ mph. Estimated 60% tread

TPS (204k): Replaced

Fuel pump (206k): Replaced

Driveshaft: Grease U-joints and Slip yokes last noted at 218k

Spark plugs, wires / coil pack (235k): OEM - had incorrect model # from south america service, discovered after P0306 and P0300

Transmission; Intermittent code P0770 Shift Solenoid E. Owner reports rare and under specific circumstances, has been advised to simply monitor unless other issues observed, ongoing since 170k. Some shavings/slivers observed at 178k (~10, 1cm long) Install magnefine filter? Monitor? Replace 3 solenoids? Probably the biggest area of concern, performed OK on short test drive.

Differential: no e-locker unfortunately, breather tube installed to gas fill door. Inspect.

Valve cover gasket - minor leak noted, as typical for age. Worth doing as PM or OK to wait on? PCV valve, grommet, hose at that time (last 2015)

Engine: Seafoam at 162k, MotorVAc cleaning at 163k, owner reports 15-16 mpg but that’s with the hardshell rooftop tent. No record of injectors - test resistance? No record of motor or transmission mounts. Worth seafoam, compression test?

I know that's a lot, so thanks for reading / suggesting. I want get rolling on the right foot.
 
E locker Acutator retrofit

To all those who are new members of the forum, WELCOME!! I hope you enjoy your stay. To those viewing this that are unregistered, feel free to join us and ask questions. We are a true community here, we help each other on and offline.


This thread will serve as a resource to all prospective buyers of 3rd generation 4runners.
If you have questions of what to look out for and what trim model is right for you, this is where you should be able to find your answer. The information here is meant to be purely informative. If you have any further questions on a topic that may have not been covered, just search or post a reply, the helpful members of this forum will help you find your answer. If you find a promising 4runner, post it up so we can dissect it. And to forum members who spot an error in this guide, please do not hesitate to notify me so I can fix it.






Thread Outline:

Post 2- Known Issues & Red Flags, Maintenance Items.

Post 3- 4WD variations, E-locker, Traction Control, 5-speed, 4Cyl information.

Post 4- Trim Levels Differences, colors

Post 5- Mid-generation upgrades.

Post 6- Wheel Variations, $ Pricing & Searching Information.

Post 7- New Owners section: Tune up pointers, Beginner FAQ, Supercharger info, Basic Starter Modifications.

--------------------------
But to start off, here is a little summary of the factory specs 3rd gen 4runner. Written by J.A.
Toyota 4Runner History 1996

And another, more maintenance oriented thread, with owners manual links and a lot of data like bolt torque and part numbers from iH8mud(.com):
3rd Gen 4Runner FAQs

And be sure to check out the 4Runner Wiki page:
Toyota 4Runner - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
-------------------------------------------


-The 3rd generation Toyota 4Runner was available from 1996 through 2002. There are basically 3 SUB-generations within the 3rd gen. '96-'98, '99-'00, and '01-'02.
You may want to keep track of the options each of these SUB-gens had, in order to help you make a list of what you want and which years had it..

-The 3rd generation 4Runner is a body-on-frame truck based SUV with Independent front suspension (IFS) and solid rear axle with coil springs in the front and rear.

-It was available with two engines, the 2.7L 4 cyl with 150 HP and the more common 3.4L V6 with 183 HP. The 4runner came with a 4-speed Automatic transmission or an optional 5-speed manual transmission. After 2000, The 5-speed and 4cyl engine were discontinued. It was also available in many different trim levels; base, SR5, Limited, ‘highlander’ model, sport package, and the sport edition. These will all be covered later in the guide.

-MPG (miles per gallon) is rated at 16/19 (city/HW) for V6/auto/4wd models. Real world numbers on a well-maintained, stock vehicle are more like 18/20+
Other options such as 5-speed, 4cyl, 2wd will change that number slightly.


All the in-post AD's you see go away when you become a member.. and it's free! So register already!


==============================================================

If you find yourself at a loss with all of our acronyms, here is a helpful list:
May God have mercy on my soul for linking to a thread from a Jeep forum, but it is a very comprehensive list. :hiding:

Acronym List

2001_1.jpg

Amazing post, my rear axle is rusted and a POS, and the 3rd member just went. Is it possible to to put the actuator on a non locking third member? Im too remote to get a rear diff but have 2 parts runners. I heard someone say they cut out and tapped one in but i cant find any information oddly enough. Is it possible? the locker is out of a 1997 limited and the donor axle nonlocker would be a 1998
 
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Amazing post, my rear axle is rusted and a POS, and the 3rd member just went. Is it possible to to put the actuator on a non locking third member? Im too remote to get a rear diff but have 2 parts runners. I heard someone say they cut out and tapped one in but i cant find any information oddly enough. Is it possible? the locker is out of a 1997 limited and the donor axle nonlocker would be a 1998

Retrofit Electric Locker
 
needing advice on buying a 99 5 speed 4runner. its a v6 with 300,000 miles, it turns over but havent heard it run. it has a swapped in elocker but wired up. been off the road since 2014 also has 2 rust holes on the frame. the guy wants 2500. what would you offer or would you just stay away.
 
needing advice on buying a 99 5 speed 4runner. its a v6 with 300,000 miles, it turns over but havent heard it run. it has a swapped in elocker but wired up. been off the road since 2014 also has 2 rust holes on the frame. the guy wants 2500. what would you offer or would you just stay away.

Sitting for 7+ years? Be prepared to put in a ton of work...
 
needing advice on buying a 99 5 speed 4runner. its a v6 with 300,000 miles, it turns over but havent heard it run. it has a swapped in elocker but wired up. been off the road since 2014 also has 2 rust holes on the frame. the guy wants 2500. what would you offer or would you just stay away.


$2500 would be a steal for the rig described, even with 300k. (I’m assuming it’s a 4x4 since it has an e-locker swapped in). However the rust could be a big problem and require a lot of work, as noted above. If you can check it out a little closer, take a test drive, etc. that’ll tell you much more about it. I mean even if you had to put $2000 into it it would still be a really good deal around here. If you do buy it, don’t drive it until you’ve changed out all of the seven year old fluids. Comes down to how much time/money you have available for it.
 
If the underside is clean as the body and interior minus the seats then yeah that’s a pretty reasonable price


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The fact that it's being sold by a dealer means that there's a premium added, and unless all the maintenance records are available, like when timing belt and lower ball joints were last done, you might be better off to keep looking and focus on private party.

The condition looks pretty good for a 98. Blown out seats, especially the driver, should be expected. Inspect it very carefully, looking for rust in the usual spots - especially trucks from the south, where flooding is common.

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Opinions on this one? Are these trucks really worth that much with that many miles?

1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 4x4 - cars & trucks - by dealer - vehicle...

Yeah like [MENTION=139174]TW44LR[/MENTION] says, the price is probably about right in this current market, assuming no rust.

If you're considering it, you need to read through this thread so you know what to look for: 3rd Gen 4Runner Buyer's Guide

and get detailed/clear photos of the frame, including the inboard side of the lower rear trailing arm mounts.

EDIT: [MENTION=95183]octanejunkie[/MENTION] I hadn't noticed it was a dealer. True about the premium..

SECOND EDIT: [MENTION=697745]Me007gold[/MENTION] the thread I suggested you read IS this thread LOL so you're a step ahead of me haha
 
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Immediate maintenance tips

Newbie here and this group is great. Just bought a 2000 4Runner SR5 and I love it! Manual, 201k miles, decent body/interior. Already stripped the tiny screws while trying to pull out the MAFS to clean it hoping that will clear the engine light. I don’t know the history of this vehicle other that there were 4 previous owners. Other than an immediate oil change, what other maintenance would you recommend doing pretty quickly? Thanks!
 
Newbie here and this group is great. Just bought a 2000 4Runner SR5 and I love it! Manual, 201k miles, decent body/interior. Already stripped the tiny screws while trying to pull out the MAFS to clean it hoping that will clear the engine light. I don’t know the history of this vehicle other that there were 4 previous owners. Other than an immediate oil change, what other maintenance would you recommend doing pretty quickly? Thanks!
Lower ball joints and lower ball joint bolts. OEM only! In case you need to know why: site:toyota-4Runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/ lower ball joint failure - Google Search Since you are a manual you don't have to worry about pink milkshake so that's a plus. Check your timing belt condition as well. If it's cracked then it's time to replace the timing belt/pulleys/water pump. FYI: any screws on the vehicle that look like a phillips are actually a JIS.
 
I need some opinions.
I am looking at a 2000 SR5 4x4 with 212,000 miles on it. It has a 3inch lift (Toytec front/ Bilstien rear) coastal custom pumper... good looking build.
But the AC is out and the ABS "needs a new motherboard". It also has rust on the rocker panels and some on the frame.

Is this worth pursuing and what would be a reasonable price?
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