3rd Gen Battery Options

Ride_Red

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Anyone have recommendations on some good battery options? Not planning on loading up the system with anything that would require me to upgrade, but I just want to know what a good replacement would be?

Thanks!
 
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I'd also like to know. Mine died last night and I've been looking for replacements this morning. Found one at Advance auto with 540CCA thas group size 26r. Also found one at NAPA, its got 475CCA, but doesn't say what group. I'm not spending $150+ for a battery...anyone have any info for us?

EDIT: After some digging, found that we need either group size 24F (OE size) or we can use size 35. You want to get something with at least 575 CCA if you live in a climate that gets cold. I found some at Sam's Club. Duracell, made in USA, both with 3yr warranty, and 96month pro rated. The 24F is CCA 725 for $79.23, and the 35 is CCA 600 for $75.87. I'm going with the 24F most likely. I'd look for something similar to this.

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod3590223

http://www.samsclub.com/sams/shop/product.jsp?productId=prod3590253
 
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You can find them for $150 or less but Optima Red Tops are not top of the line but pretty dang close. I love mine and put it through hell and back and its been a champ!
 
When I needed to replace the sacrificial battery that I had originally used as a secondary power for my fridge I went with a diehard platinum (supposedly manufactured by Odyssey). Now that my normal starting battery is starting to act up, its soon getting replaced with a second diehard platinum. I heard great things about them on some of the other forums, expedition portal being the main one. I'm a little more carefree on a battery for a vehicle with a manual transmission, but with an automatic and the ability to be MILES from a jump start, I've never felt 100% comfortable with a cheap battery.

I'm sure there are some perfectly fine stock replacement batteries available, but I don't believe any of you for a second that your on this forum and haven't added, don't plan to, or won't add anything that sucks down the battery voltage at least a little bit.
 
That's true about being in the middle of nowhere. I carry a jump pack in the runner just in case I'm stranded. The two I listed above seem to be pretty decent, and have a good amount of power. Plus made in USA is generlly better.
 
I've been hearing bad things about Optima, it appears they were bought out some time ago and no longer have the same quality? I've gotten great use out of Interstate batteries my whole life, fwiw.
 
Picked this one up yesterday. Duracell, sold at Sam's Club. 725 CCA is more than enough for what I have installed. Came with a 3yr free replacement warranty and was only $85.

IMG_5039.jpg~original
 
Good timing on the thread. My battery isn't the greatest and with adding the winch, i'm going to need to replace it sooner than later.

I'm planning on getting this one

http://www.interstatebatteries.com/...oyota_4Runner|1997_Heavy+Duty+Battery_V6/3.4L)

Link didn't work for me, but I assume it's the Megatron Plus?

That's the battery I just bought yesterday. My Kirkland Signature that came with the truck died on it's 4th year even though it's still under it's 100 month warranty. Wasn't impressed with the no-notice dieing so I went with Interstate. 800CCA/1000CA Sure fires it the engine up quick! Mine was not struggling before, but I figured something might be wrong because it wasn't quick to start. I think my problems are solved with this batter. The guys at the store showed me the test printout and my voltages were dropping super fast and low when a load was put on my old battery.
 
Picked this one up yesterday. Duracell, sold at Sam's Club. 725 CCA is more than enough for what I have installed. Came with a 3yr free replacement warranty and was only $85.

IMG_5039.jpg~original

I bought this one about a month ago. Its slightly taller than my old battery. Did you notice that?

I've been wanting a diehard platinum for years now but couldn't justify the price without having a winch and other accessories.
 
Yes, I did notice that. I had to unthread the bolt on the long hook that hold the strap down. Other than that, it was as easy as it can get.

I'm with you, I wasn't going to spend a ton of money on something I don't need. The only "extra" I have is my sub with amp built in, and that hardly justifies me paying double for a battery.

I didn't find a ton of reviews on this battery, but for price and warranty, I figured I'd check it out.
 
Yes, I did notice that. I had to unthread the bolt on the long hook that hold the strap down. Other than that, it was as easy as it can get.

I'm with you, I wasn't going to spend a ton of money on something I don't need. The only "extra" I have is my sub with amp built in, and that hardly justifies me paying double for a battery.

I didn't find a ton of reviews on this battery, but for price and warranty, I figured I'd check it out.

I read good things about East Penn (duracell manufacturer). They make many other brands as well but I wanted something different and this battery fit the bill.
 
Link didn't work for me, but I assume it's the Megatron Plus?

That's the battery I just bought yesterday. My Kirkland Signature that came with the truck died on it's 4th year even though it's still under it's 100 month warranty. Wasn't impressed with the no-notice dieing so I went with Interstate. 800CCA/1000CA Sure fires it the engine up quick! Mine was not struggling before, but I figured something might be wrong because it wasn't quick to start. I think my problems are solved with this batter. The guys at the store showed me the test printout and my voltages were dropping super fast and low when a load was put on my old battery.

Yep thats the one. The link worked when i posted it but not now for some reason. The Interstate part number is MTP-24F

Here is another link that may or may not work:shrug:
Batteries - Mega-Tron Plus 24F Automotive Battery Six-Year Performance 800 CCA

Plus.....the battery says Megatron on it
 
That's true about being in the middle of nowhere. I carry a jump pack in the runner just in case I'm stranded. The two I listed above seem to be pretty decent, and have a good amount of power. Plus made in USA is generlly better.

There are no more USA based manufacturing plants. Period. The most they do is press the lead/mold the cases.


One funny thing I've found with a lot of these boards and enthusiasts is that they completely forget about the battery... until it dies on them. Then they get pissy and blame the battery! >_<

The battery is the second most important part of your vehicle(tires being the first), if you cannot justify spending 100+ ish on a new battery but you can spend 1000+ on new tires, then you're missing something.

If your battery has bad voltage/reserve capacity, chances are you bought a cheap-o and you'll be noticing terrible mileage and hard starts. Also making your alternator/starter work even harder for little to no reason. It's amazing the issues that can be attributed to bad batteries and grounds!

Anyways, just my rant...

The majority of 24F series batteries(don't skimp for a 35 series unless you are seriously stuck for space) will average around 700CCA, this is more than enough for the 4runners. What you want to find is a higher R/C(reserver capacity) rating, preferably into the 120 minute mark. Usually these higher rated batteries also come with the bonus of a better warranty to boot! R/C determines the length of time a battery can supply voltage until they are considered "stone dead". Higher capacity requires thicker plates, and thicker separators, which leads to a more durable, longer life battery.

Also, purchase a good quality, fully automatic charger as well. If you're parked for more than a month it's a good idea to top up your battery(12-14 hour charge).

Anyways, just some advice from someone with too many years in this(battery) industry.

I won't speak about specific brands, but JCI is the foremost battery manufacturer in the world. Here in Canada, Battery Direct and Interstate deal in their batteries(they are literally the same thing just different colors) and come with some of the best warranties in the business(Battery Direct offers a 5 year free replacement, as does Lordco's ACDelco line).

Odyssey batteries will out-perform AND out-last Optima batteries nearly every single time, fyi. ;)

If you have any questions feel free to ask!
 
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I agree with what you say above. The battery is one of the most important parts of the vehicle. I did a lot of looking and comparing yesterday at different brands. The Duracell I picked up has 725 CCA and RC 120. I looked at other brands and for the same specs (or similar) they were $30 to $40 more at the minimum. Plus the warranties werent as good. For the mods I have done, I don't need anything bigger. This was the best deal I found for me.

Also, I'll believe you about no batteries being made in the US, I was just going by what I read...components made in USA and assembled in the USA.
 
I cant justify getting a $200 battery when a $90 battery will suit my needs just fine. I don't like buying new tires either so I wait until I find a deal on used ones.
 
If your battery has bad voltage/reserve capacity, chances are you bought a cheap-o and you'll be noticing terrible mileage and hard starts. Also making your alternator/starter work even harder for little to no reason. It's amazing the issues that can be attributed to bad batteries and grounds!

If you have any questions feel free to ask!
why terrible mileage?
 
why terrible mileage?

I thought about this, and this is the only thing I can come up with. The cheaper battery could have a low impedance, which makes it easier to discharge. Anytime your alternator is working to recharge the battery, it puts a load on the engine, thereby taking some power. This could in theory, affect fuel economy. So if your battery discharges quickly, it needs to be charged more often and for longer periods of time. That's all I got on that!
:spy:
 
Yeah, I'm not going to justify blowing the wallet out for a $100+ battery. In my case, I don't have all the extra power components (onboard air, massive sound system) that I've read about on these forums.

My 97 wouldn't start last night... Got the multiple clicks when turning the key, no starter engagement. All interior lights worked though, it still had the low amps to do that. Then I checked the battery and had significant corrosion on the posts. I had just taken the battery out and cleaned it up less than 2 months ago right after I got the truck; I was surprised at how fast that corrosion built up. I trickle charged the battery all night with a charger, and had the same problem the following morning after ~10 hours of charging. When I took the battery to Napa, it failed the tester. Then we noticed the sticker on the side of the battery... Sold in Dec 2003! That explains it. Got a Napa brand OEM replacement for right at $100.

From my experience of buying a used vehicle... Be sure to check out when the battery was sold by looking at the stickers on it. Although it might hold a charge, it might give you an idea of how much longer you might expect it to last. The sustained below freezing temps up here finally shut down my old battery, but the old girl made it a full decade! I don't want to let it get that far again if able.
abasypaq.jpg
 

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