3rd gen retrofit halo headlights WANTED!!!

well what about the glass, the older cars have glass that resembles old time headlights? will this DDM kit work with these or do you need the clear glass (plastic I guess) like on the newer models?
 
well what about the glass, the older cars have glass that resembles old time headlights? will this DDM kit work with these or do you need the clear glass (plastic I guess) like on the newer models?


If your going to do halos i would get the clear housings but if your just doing a projector with hid's then you could stick with the stock housings but you could pick up some clear housings for absolutely nothing second hand on ebay
 
well what about the glass, the older cars have glass that resembles old time headlights? will this DDM kit work with these or do you need the clear glass (plastic I guess) like on the newer models?

You're going to want to be sure that you use the clear 99+ plus style if you'll be utilizing a projector. I am 99.9% sure that all of the aftermarket options use a glass lense, as does OEM.

If your going to do halos i would get the clear housings but if your just doing a projector with hid's then you could stick with the stock housings

No. =)
 
here is the comparison. you can see that my trs morimoto fx-rs have a much smoother distribution of light, and there are no apparent hot spots, however the intensity of the light gradually increases as you approach the step down. with the ddm d2s knock offs there is a very distinct hotspot, also the hotspot is not even centered on the cutoff and the bulb focus is incorrect causing the cutoff line to curve and at the same time produce more color along the cutoff.
 

Attachments

  • 20150716_221042.jpg
    20150716_221042.jpg
    67.5 KB · Views: 315
  • 20150716_221250.jpg
    20150716_221250.jpg
    81.8 KB · Views: 315
Last edited:
Re-size your photos David.

Video comparison for those interested.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/8sHSHm1ByyA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/eFdY9z26Dfo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Last edited:
Lol. Thanks for the comparison. They look about the same. =p (please not sarcasm)
In person, there are a few minute differences. Unfortunately, these don't come across in the video. I noticed the DDM's have a slightly softer focus at the cutoff; similar to what you'd find in a OEM application. My 335i had a very similar soft cut-off, for example. The TRS seem to have a more even spread of light throughout all the spill, whereas the DDM's seem slightly more concentrated "down-road". Both have instantaneous high-beam solenoids, one of my favorite features of aftermarket projector kits.

Of course, the 4300k bulbs in the DDM's had a slightly warmer appearance, and as we all know, lumens tend to fall off as the color temperature gets cooler; the opposite of LED's. This could explain a difference in the perceived brightness of the two kits. Also, as David mentioned, his bulbs were older so this may have some effect.

In conclusion, I believe the average consumer would be blown away at the amount of light both kits put out, especially when compared to the OEM halogen candles.

Hilarious picture of canned ham
I'm confused and hungry ... thanks
 
In person, there are a few minute differences. Unfortunately, these don't come across in the video. I noticed the DDM's have a slightly softer focus at the cutoff; similar to what you'd find in a OEM application. My 335i had a very similar soft cut-off, for example. The TRS seem to have a more even spread of light throughout all the spill, whereas the DDM's seem slightly more concentrated "down-road". Both have instantaneous high-beam solenoids, one of my favorite features of aftermarket projector kits.

Of course, the 4300k bulbs in the DDM's had a slightly warmer appearance, and as we all know, lumens tend to fall off as the color temperature gets cooler; the opposite of LED's. This could explain a difference in the perceived brightness of the two kits. Also, as David mentioned, his bulbs were older so this may have some effect.

In conclusion, I believe the average consumer would be blown away at the amount of light both kits put out, especially when compared to the OEM halogen candles.

I'm confused and hungry ... thanks

the cutoff is fuzzy because the bulbs are misaligned, next time we meet up i can help you adjust the bulbs to center the hotspot and fix the cutoff.
 
Makes me super moist when folks call me by my first name.

Check this out buddy:

Click me!

I'm glad for making you moist??? :frisky: I think?

God I don't even think I have had a women even tell me that?
Wait there was this one. She was playing with her... while I was doing homework and she said she was...:censored: and wanted me to come over and :censored:

Whoops :girl:

Thanks for the help.
 
the cutoff is fuzzy because the bulbs are misaligned, next time we meet up i can help you adjust the bulbs to center the hotspot and fix the cutoff.
I was actually looking for a way to further blur the cutoff. I find the cutoff to be distracting sometimes.
 
overall not a very well conducted comparison, we have different style projectors, the trs ballasts are 50 watts and the ddms are 55 watts. I have older 6000k bulbsnand you have new 4500k bulbs. and we used cell phone cameras which arent accurate at all for determining brightness. the ddms are probably brighter considering all of these things, but since I dont have d2s mini projectors or 4500k bulbs, it really means nothing. its like comparing a sentra to a camry.

what is useful from this comparison is that some people apparently dont care about beam pattern at all, which to me is the most important.

let me tell you a bit about beam pattern and light distribution. you could have a massive ammount of light, but if its not graduated correctly the advantage of the extra light turns into a disadvatage. the only reason to have a projector over a pnp kit is because the beam pattern is so much better, the pnp kit creates just as much if not more light output, but it scatters it creating random hot spots and streaks, your eyes focus on these hotspots and then miss the things that are in between them. a good projector has a single mild hot spot in the center and then gradually the light decreases as it aproaches the foreground in order to spread the light evenly across the area that it illuminates.

if you look at the output pictures in this thread you can see that the d2s mini the light graduates off more quickly from the center than the fx-r does, and the fx-r is brighter along the entire cutoff, to the left and right of the step.

Mini D2S 3.0 vs Mini D2S 2.0 vs FXR - output shots

the quality of the harness is better on the morimotos because it has fewer connectors. the ddm kit has generic 55 watt ballast that output to amp connectors then connect to an adapter that goes on the bulb. I used the have a pnp kit that was exactly the same as the ddm kit and eventually the bulb would turn off when i went over bumps because the connections in the adapter werent making proper contact. the morimoto kit has nice 9006 connectors everywhere and the ballast output is a proper d2s connector with no plug in between.

anyways if you are on a budget the ddm kit is great, personally I prefer the trs kit
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,316
Messages
3,554,120
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top