3rd Gen Running 33" Tires with No Lift

[Grimarine]

I just purchased some BFG KM2's that are 285/75R16 and decided to put them on my stock 99' SR5 with no lift. I do not have aftermarket wheels, just the stock with 4.5" BS and no wheel spacers. I barely cleared the upper control arm but so far I have not rubbed at all. I even tried flexing on some ramps on opposite ends and they tuck right into the well. I have not modified anything at all it is bone stock! I haven't driven off-road yet, I'm still trying to get them to rub near home but so far nothing at all. If someone could enlighten me on how to upload Pics, I would gladly show you the results.

 

[AZTOY]

Click the go advanced after clicking pencil. Then click manage attachments, then click browse, then click upload, then click close window. Then submit post.

 

[92Pony]

Hey, let's see those pics already! :lever:

:worthless

 

[Dinardy]

Pics!!!

 

[Lunarphase]

I'm way over due for tires and want to put on 285/75 16r (on stock Toyota wheels) If this is true then I can get the tires before I install the Toytec lift. I have 1.25" spacers coming so I should be good. This would really help out being able to stretch out $ not having to buy the lift and tires all at once.

"I do not have aftermarket wheels, just the stock with 4.5" BS and no wheel spacers." sorry for my ignorance, but what is (4.5" BS)?
Thanks

 

[white_n_slow]

BFG's tend to run a little small, which is probably why you didn't have any UCA clearance problems. It's been done before and if your springs are in good shape, probably no harm in giving it a shot.

FWIW, my underszied 285 Coopers on stock wheels rubbed off road with a 3" lift. Probably depends on how hard you wheel it.

 

[white_n_slow]

"I do not have aftermarket wheels, just the stock with 4.5" BS and no wheel spacers." sorry for my ignorance, but what is (4.5" BS)?
Thanks

Back spacing

 

[Do-boy]

Hey OP, have you tried full lock turns?

 

[Grimarine]

So after lots of tests the only problem I have encountered is backspacing. When the wheel is fully turned under flex/droop the lugs barely rub. Turning fully locked is bad anyways so I do not do it. Other than that I've only rubbed my mud flaps which has done nothing. I have pro comps coming in the mail with 3.75" of backspacing which will fix my rubbing problems.

 

[Grimarine]

I know it is not flexed very much but this is the only photo I have, but there is plenty of room in there. It has grazed to plastic in the fender well which hasn't done anything more than make noise. So far I've only rubbed plastic and the upper control arms, so I'd say possible with no lift but with proper wheels.

 

[Twan]

BFG's tend to run a little small, which is probably why you didn't have any UCA clearance problems. It's been done before and if your springs are in good shape, probably no harm in giving it a shot.

FWIW, my underszied 285 Coopers on stock wheels rubbed off road with a 3" lift. Probably depends on how hard you wheel it.

You've seen my truck, and my Duratracs rub the fender liners at the pinch weld at partial turns and the inside rear wheel well at full lock at ride height.

Important specs are 265/75/16 on stock '00 sport 5 spokes and no lift.

 

[Lunarphase]

FYI to anyone thinking of trying to fit the KO2 285/75/16 in stock 99 4Runner. (I do have 1.25" spidertrax spacers)

Today I tried putting on the BFG KO2's 285/75/16 they did not fit.
Rubbed on the front fender/mudflaps, so I took them off, they still didn't fit, rubbed on the metal panel where the fender attaches. The truck will need at least 1" lift to get the by the panel and more to get by the fender.

Yea I know it don't mean squat without pics, so here's a few

 

[BrianSD_42]

33s do not fit on a stock lift.

end of story.

OP said "full locked turns are bad so I dont do them". Well that says a lot right there. Turning the wheel in full range of motion is not bad. We do it all the time.

Once OP goes on an ACTUAL 4x4 trail he will realize how badly thosw wheels will rub once he get to flexing the suspension.

I think you can get away with a 31.5" tire and a stock lift and keep it wheeling capable.

Just remember that what fits in town with 0 flex will not necessarily work out on the trail.

 

[Wikki]

I would have to agree with [MENTION=65101]BrianSD_42[/MENTION] no chance is going to work out in the end... I've got 33s 1.25 spacers, LC80 Wraps in the ears with TRD tundra coils in the front and I still rub plenty on trails... Essences at full flex... And that's after hammering out pinch welds and everything as well

 

[snivilous]

Brian has a very good point. If you wheel and flex a lot then you may as well have 0 lift since a lift doesn't give you added clearance when flexing, something to keep in mind if you stuff the tires a lot and are hoping a lift will help you clear those bigger tires on the trail.

 

[Grimarine]

[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION] I see you have been around the Bountiful B and I have driven every road on that mountain, even places where there are not trails.
IMO I wheel hard enough to get sufficient articulation that would cause rub. I have encountered situations in which I have to turn the wheel to fully locked and it had very minor rub on the UCA.
I just don't see why you have to deny what is being done, you can rant all you want about how 33" tires won't work. I put on my 33's with the intention to lift and I have.
If you get a real lift system the the tire will still articulate to the exact same position as the stock suspension (assuming you do not have new bump stops). The point I am trying to make by saying this is that the lift is not going to solve rubbing issues off road. A body lift would fix that problem, but a suspension lift should not. That is why I believed that running 33's stock was doable. I ran it for 3 months with ease, including off roading every weekend.
You can say all you want. I did it. It worked for me. Might not have been perfect, but it worked. End of story.

 

[snivilous]

[MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION] I see you have been around the Bountiful B and I have driven every road on that mountain, even places where there are not trails.
IMO I wheel hard enough to get sufficient articulation that would cause rub. I have encountered situations in which I have to turn the wheel to fully locked and it had very minor rub on the UCA.
I just don't see why you have to deny what is being done, you can rant all you want about how 33" tires won't work. I put on my 33's with the intention to lift and I have.
If you get a real lift system the the tire will still articulate to the exact same position as the stock suspension (assuming you do not have new bump stops). The point I am trying to make by saying this is that the lift is not going to solve rubbing issues off road. A body lift would fix that problem, but a suspension lift should not. That is why I believed that running 33's stock was doable. I ran it for 3 months with ease, including off roading every weekend.
You can say all you want. I did it. It worked for me. Might not have been perfect, but it worked. End of story.

So..... That's EXACTLY what I said?

 

[TCMach]

It has a lot more to do with your wheel than anything else. Wider wheels rub more. You got away with it with a skinnier MT and stock BS wheels. That keeps the tire in a better spot as far as room goes. Once you go tossing on wheel spacers or less backspaced wheels is when you have to break out the hammer and sawzall. Also has do with your flares. No flares is way easier to work with than limiteds.

To clarify I believe you. I just think a lot of people will read this and think they can run them no issues no matter what. Kinda like the guy earlier whose 33s didn't fit because he had spacers. If he took them off it would have probably worked better.

 

[BrianSD_42]

I believe you in that you did some wheeling and it worked with the skinnier 33s.

285s though i don't believe will work on true 4wd trail without major disabling rubbing at articulation.

I think you are wrong though to say a suspension lift does not change the articulation in the wheel well.. clearly it does and it easily seen by looking at the CV angle.

One more thing to consider, what about when you got a bump and compress the front real hard?

I had my 285s on with 1.25 spacers, no BL and suspension 2.5" and when i bottomed out I damaged my fender, bent it pretty bad.

Quick follow up on my death valley trip.



Damage report:
1. Bottomed out the front end when I hit some dirt mogals on my way out of DV. This resulted in a bent passenger fender because my 285s were sticking out toooo far.

Also, the front drivers and passenger Limited flares completely popped off and went flying in the desert.



Bent Passenger Fender













:bat:

 

[Road Bull]

Ouch Brian! How much will that set you back?

When I was talking to Steve at Sonoran Steel, he mentioned that it was important to have a wheel with proper backspacing to be able to fit inside the wheel well during articulation, as well as being able to clear UCAs, so far as I can recall. He suggested a 16x8 wheel with -4.5 bs in order to clear 285x75x16s.

I know some replace upper control arms, and others use spacer kits, but is it really as straight forward as having the correct wheel to accommodate the 285x75x16 tires. He mentioned that the 7" width of the standard Toyota 4runner wheels were a contributing factor to the UCA clearance issues. I wasn't really planning on it, but if new wheels allowed me to avoid changing out other parts, and or, avoid body damage on extreme articulation, it might be a good way to go.