3rd gen subwoofer

Hey guys,
Im running 2 10" Jensens in the back with the 900 amp and when i had the people install them i said to add a quick disconnect to the amp and any wiring that needed to stay in the car. I dont believe they did because i have to go to my battery first disconnect the line there and then go back to the amp to disconnect it.

So moral of the story is what are you guys using for quick disconnects because i would like to be able to take my sub out quickly whenever i need the extra space!
 
Wow thank you to everyone who responded this really is a great community. And it looks like everyone has recommended a power sub so I'm gonna look at those today. I'm also going to go to my local audio guy who did my speaker and get a quote for a sub box. We'll see how it goes and I'll poxt it on here! Thanks again
 
? I have a 12 inch kicker sub in a box looking for an amp. someone told me to look for a 600-800 2 channel mp..any suggestions? thanks for the help.
 
? I have a 12 inch kicker sub in a box looking for an amp. someone told me to look for a 600-800 2 channel mp..any suggestions? thanks for the help.

Ok, don't thread jack with a horrible question. You are asking a general audio question, so google that outside of this forum, or visit any of a million car audio forums.

Keep it 3rd gen 4runner related here.

OP, I bet your local audio guy will overcharge you for an all-in-1 sub; that just isn't his business model as there is no install or real work for him to do, so all he can do is mark-up the price and buy it for you.

Places like sonicelectronix or one of the many other random audio website that sell discontinued stuff are probably your best bet because you can get last year's models for extra cheap. The install should be pretty easy (assuming you have an aftermarket head unit already), just put it in and plug it into the back of your HU and run power to it. You should be able to get something decent for pretty cheap that way.

Hey guys,
Im running 2 10" Jensens in the back with the 900 amp and when i had the people install them i said to add a quick disconnect to the amp and any wiring that needed to stay in the car. I dont believe they did because i have to go to my battery first disconnect the line there and then go back to the amp to disconnect it.

So moral of the story is what are you guys using for quick disconnects because i would like to be able to take my sub out quickly whenever i need the extra space!

Use whatever quick connects you want. For moving the sub in and out, I'd think the easiest would just to get some spade terminals for your sub wires and take them on and off the sub box which should have banana posts on them. Just be sure to either isolate them very well when you take the sub out, or turn the sub off so you don't short circuit anything.
 
? I have a 12 inch kicker sub in a box looking for an amp. someone told me to look for a 600-800 2 channel mp..any suggestions? thanks for the help.

Better to go on the larger size, otherwise, the amp will kick into protection mode which is very annoying. As mentioned look up the required specs for the sub and go from there. Again go big or go home, less is not best.
 
Wow thank you to everyone who responded this really is a great community. And it looks like everyone has recommended a power sub so I'm gonna look at those today. I'm also going to go to my local audio guy who did my speaker and get a quote for a sub box. We'll see how it goes and I'll poxt it on here! Thanks again

One last place to consider when placing your new sub it the location Toyo uses on the limiteds, just under the front passenger seat. Yeah I know not very big But that spot more than makes up for it by being a solid body contact point which allows the bass to magnify. Just a thought... :cowboy:
 
I've got 1 12" kicker in the back, it's enough for me and I've got the kicker amp in storage area at the right of the trunk
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    132.5 KB · Views: 3,826
image.jpg

8" Sundown Audio 1000w DVC in a 'Labyrinth' ported enclosure. It's pretty small. 0.8 cu ft. It sounds like I have a 12" In there, no joke. And amp/capacitor are mounted on the enclosure, along with an extra 6' of neatly wrapped extra lead. So I can move it anywhere in the vehicle as a unit. I put it in the front seat when it's time to crash out on the back, without unhooking anything.
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    135.7 KB · Views: 6,303
I also have an Infinity Basslink. If I have the settings turn up you can hear it at a stoplight for sure... That's not my thing though =)

Mine is mounted inside of my storage/sleeping platform under that hinged piece of wood that looks a little off-color. Works very very well.

ramypy5u.jpg
 
Use whatever quick connects you want. For moving the sub in and out, I'd think the easiest would just to get some spade terminals for your sub wires and take them on and off the sub box which should have banana posts on them. Just be sure to either isolate them very well when you take the sub out, or turn the sub off so you don't short circuit anything.
Oh-kay I'm picking up what you're putting down but it was my fault for not clarifying! The people I had install it mounted the amp to the back of my seat(which ended up not working) so I instead mounted it on the back of my sub box. So I do have the sub to amp quick disconnects but what Im looking for is the Battery to amp quick disconnecting ideas.(So I dont have to go under the hood to disconnect, then go back to the amp and unscrew all the wiring.) My bad on not explaining that!
 
Oh-kay I'm picking up what you're putting down but it was my fault for not clarifying! The people I had install it mounted the amp to the back of my seat(which ended up not working) so I instead mounted it on the back of my sub box. So I do have the sub to amp quick disconnects but what Im looking for is the Battery to amp quick disconnecting ideas.(So I dont have to go under the hood to disconnect, then go back to the amp and unscrew all the wiring.) My bad on not explaining that!

Ok, I think my suggestion would be the same, a post or spade type connector that you could easily screw in and out of the amp rather than crunching the wire every time. If you didn't want to screw it in and out every time, then maybe some high grade spade or bullet connector? You'd have to check the power handling for the connector, and I think it would be a definite impedance bottleneck, but maybe it would work if you with oversized ones.
 
Anderson pole connectors seem like a decent choice. I didn't know they made them to accept large gauge wire until I found a bunch of folks using them on expeditionportal for a variety of heavy duty/high current applications.
 
Im sorry to say, but there is no good way to make quick battery disconnects. You'd have to kill the battery power to them before messing with them anyway. I would scrap that idea right now. It could be potentially dangerous to your equipment if they ever contacted anything while hot.
 
Im sorry to say, but there is no good way to make quick battery disconnects. You'd have to kill the battery power to them before messing with them anyway. I would scrap that idea right now. It could be potentially dangerous to your equipment if they ever contacted anything while hot.

Yeah, I agree. For me, I just wired in the wires to my amp (I also mounted the amp on the sub box too) as normal, but left enough length so that I can move it around to anywhere in the back with the seats down. I wrapped them up in wire loom so that they are protected so that I can move the box anywhere in the back when I need to load stuff. If I absolutely need to take it out, I just take the time to unscrew the wires themselves.

Also, I turn off the sub from the HU and cover the wire end so that they don't short out.
 
Im sorry to say, but there is no good way to make quick battery disconnects. You'd have to kill the battery power to them before messing with them anyway. I would scrap that idea right now. It could be potentially dangerous to your equipment if they ever contacted anything while hot.

People use these for winches as do tow truck drivers for a jumper cable plug in
QD-Connector-Smith.jpg


I have used 8ga Anderson Power Poles and feel they are safe, you just need to properly cap them when unplugged.
 
Anderson pole connectors seem like a decent choice. I didn't know they made them to accept large gauge wire until I found a bunch of folks using them on expeditionportal for a variety of heavy duty/high current applications.

I was about to suggest an Anderson or similar quick disconnect like for winches. I used something like that when I had a Basslink in my previous vehicle.

Quick google image search for "winch quick disconnect":

Quick-Connect-Power-Accessories.jpg


41qWVYoI-eL._SX466_.jpg


Actual terminals are covered,no risk of shorting. You guys should have have a fuse or breaker by the battery end of the amplifier's power cable anyway. They only plug together one way,no worries about connecting ground to positive...unless you're one of those people who's managed to put a square peg in a round hole LOL
 
I've been trying to find a used Stealthbox. They're way too expensive new.




Nice! How do you manage charging of the aux batteries?

Just a simple solenoid.

I use the same disconnect for my portable winch system too as well as the jumper cables. One of my favorite and most used mods to date:

img4214im.jpg~original


What's especially sweet is that anyone can use the set-up as the cables are 20' long and all you got to do is pack it to another stuck rig (that has a 2" receiver) and they just plug the winch end to the jumper cable and connect it to a battery! Works slick!
 
Last edited:

Members online

No members online now.

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,068
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top