3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

[stir_fry_boy]

Thanks for enduring the elements for me. I wonder if I could get away with a smaller vise if I used a 2nd pair of channel locks or a shorter cup. I don't think the bushings sticks out further than 0.5in?

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A second pair of channel locks instead of a receiving up would work but it would have to be thick enough to allow the bushing to press all the way in. And definitely, a shorter cup would also work. I just got onto the wet ground again and you're right, it only sticks out .5 inches.

Now that I think about it, I would have rather had the balljoint cup doing the pressing on the sleeve and had the channel locks on the backside. Oh well. Anyway, great questions. Thanks!

I have a question on the LCA bushings video. If one were to attempt this job, How much of a jaw opening is need on the bench vise to fit the LCA and the bushing + a pair of channel locks?

That is an excellent question. The question was so good, I was willing to get on the wet ground outside to get the control arm measurement.

Here's the numbers:
Control Arm Sleeve that the bushing presses into - 1.75"
Balljoint Receiving Cup - 2.5"
Big Channel Locks - .5"

Total Length - 4.75"

So, I'd recommend using a vice that can at least open 5 inches. Now, if you use a longer balljoint receiving cup or a thicker pair of channel locks, you'd have to have an opening longer than 5 inches.

Honestly, I think its the easiest thing to use a press with an air gun. Line it up with the appropriate cup, and go slow at first to make sure the bushing is getting pressed in squarely to the control arm housing.

I also used the threaded rod technique with A LOT of washers (they bend). The trick is to keep the rod from turning as you hold the nut on one end, and turn the nut from the end you are pressing into. I used the jam nut technique to minimize the rod from turning. I also used an air gun for the threaded rod technique, (yes, I love my MAC air gun).

 

[stir_fry_boy]

What are the chances a clogged stock breather could have caused an axle seal to leak?

Could have caused it, it's cheap to replace.

 

[shoota]

Could have caused it, it's cheap to replace.

Let's say that it did cause the leak, does that mean that the seals are toast? Or will fixing the breather, and therefore lightening the pressure, be enough to stop the leak?

 

[mtbtim]

Let's say that it did cause the leak, does that mean that the seals are toast? Or will fixing the breather, and therefore lightening the pressure, be enough to stop the leak?

Replacing the breather can fix the problem with gear oil getting past the seal as long as the seal is still intact and has no flaws that will still allow gear oil to get past even with the reduced pressure.

However, what a new breather can't fix is the fact that gear oil got where it shouldn't be. Gear oil can get into the wheel bearing, wash out the grease, and then the bearing will wear out much faster and you'll be pulling axles anyway.

 

[shoota]

Replacing the breather can fix the problem with gear oil getting past the seal as long as the seal is still intact and has no flaws that will still allow gear oil to get past even with the reduced pressure.

However, what a new breather can't fix is the fact that gear oil got where it shouldn't be. Gear oil can get into the wheel bearing, wash out the grease, and then the bearing will wear out much faster and you'll be pulling axles anyway.

Well we found the leak because we were putting on the lift. My buddy just happened to have a brand new axle so we swapped it in but I was wondering if my old one would still be good. I need to hurry and check the breather before it causes the seal to fail in my new one. Ugh there's not enough time for everything!

 

[mtbtim]

Honestly, I think its the easiest thing to use a press with an air gun. Line it up with the appropriate cup, and go slow at first to make sure the bushing is getting pressed in squarely to the control arm housing.

I also used the threaded rod technique with A LOT of washers (they bend). The trick is to keep the rod from turning as you hold the nut on one end, and turn the nut from the end you are pressing into. I used the jam nut technique to minimize the rod from turning. I also used an air gun for the threaded rod technique, (yes, I love my MAC air gun).

At the time of the video, I didn't own a press but now I have one. Got the affordable Harbor Freight model. I have a huge kit of press sleeves too.

If you have a large enough vice, it is pretty easy to do. If I used the vice technique again to push in bushings, I'd use the channel locks or something similar on the backside of the bushings and do the pressing with the balljoint adapter against the sleeve. This way, the bushings would be pressed in more squarely instead of just where the channel lock jaws are contacting the sleeve.

 

[mtbtim]

Well we found the leak because we were putting on the lift. My buddy just happened to have a brand new axle so we swapped it in but I was wondering if my old one would still be good. I need to hurry and check the breather before it causes the seal to fail in my new one. Ugh there's not enough time for everything!

I'm guessing you removed the old seal on the affected side and drove in a new one. Toyota redesigned the axle seals some time ago. The new seal design has the lip of the seal sitting 1-2mm more inboard towards the 3rd member. If the axle you installed had the seal retainer installed by factory spec, the seal might not be riding on the retainer that well and it will fail. The retainer has a beveled non-polished edge to it. If the lip of the seal is riding on it or very near, you're most likely going to have a leak again.

Did you verify where the seal is riding on the retainer by doing the grease test? If you don't know what I'm talking about, you put grease on the inner retainer, install the axle until it's fully seated, rotate the axle, and then pull it back out. The demarcation line between the greased and non-greased area of the retainer lets you know where the lip of the seal is riding. Ideally, you want the lip of the seal riding in the middle of the area of the polished part of the retainer. You don't want it riding on the non-polished bevel or very close to it. With a little bearing play, your axle will move in and out a little. So, if the seal is riding right next to the bevel, your axle seal will most likely end up failing due to the axle movement.

 

[shoota]

I'm guessing you removed the old seal on the affected side and drove in a new one. Toyota redesigned the axle seals some time ago. The new seal design has the lip of the seal sitting 1-2mm more inboard towards the 3rd member. If the axle you installed had the seal retainer installed by factory spec, the seal might not be riding on the retainer that well and it will fail. The retainer has a beveled non-polished edge to it. If the lip of the seal is riding on it or very near, you're most likely going to have a leak again.

Did you verify where the seal is riding on the retainer by doing the grease test? If you don't know what I'm talking about, you put grease on the inner retainer, install the axle until it's fully seated, rotate the axle, and then pull it back out. The demarcation line between the greased and non-greased area of the retainer lets you know where the lip of the seal is riding. Ideally, you want the lip of the seal riding in the middle of the area of the polished part of the retainer. You don't want it riding on the non-polished bevel or very close to it. With a little bearing play, your axle will move in and out a little. So, if the seal is riding right next to the bevel, your axle seal will most likely end up failing due to the axle movement.

Ugh. Pretty much "no" to all of that. We're planning on putting in the right side axle at some point so I will have my buddy help me check this stuff then, thanks again man.

 

[OldManKamps]

All hail Timmy the Toolman and his new microphone!!! Woohoo!! It sounds great man!
I'm assuming it's a new camera? It sounds and looks awesome! Love the new TBU video!

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[mtbtim]

All hail Timmy the Toolman and his new microphone!!! Woohoo!! It sounds great man!
I'm assuming it's a new camera? It sounds and looks awesome! Love the new TBU video!

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Dude, you are going to hate me but there's going to be another video with shitty audio. I traveled up to Napa to help [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] with installing Upper Control Arms and Front Springs on [MENTION=94292]Patriot12[/MENTION] 5th Gen. I freaking forgot to install the external mic. Sean was watching some of the footage and realized the audio was like it was before. He let me know and I suddenly realized I forgot the new mic.

It's the same camera. Sean bought me a new case and external mic and I drilled a hole in the side so we could insert the mic. I just have to remember to put the mic in. DOOH!

 

[OldManKamps]

Dude, you are going to hate me but there's going to be another video with shitty audio. I traveled up to Napa to help [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] with installing Upper Control Arms and Front Springs on [MENTION=94292]Patriot12[/MENTION] 5th Gen. I freaking forgot to install the external mic. Sean was watching some of the footage and realized the audio was like it was before. He let me know and I suddenly realized I forgot the new mic.

It's the same camera. Sean bought me a new case and external mic and I drilled a hole in the side so we could insert the mic. I just have to remember to put the mic in. DOOH!

Hahah what a shame! Oh well, another excuse to make another video!

 

[mtbtim]

Hey Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. It's the famous TBU or Tundra Brake Upgrade. We did the job on [MENTION=98597]Jayjayb96[/MENTION] rig. We also had a little 3rd Gen get-together the same day and you can hear the chatter in the background while we're shooting the video. It was a fun day and we'll be doing it again soon.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P8zy-j4UBUo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

[Tucson4runner]

Hey [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] sorry for the late response but here's a picture of that leaking seal I have. Seems to far in to be the cv boot. What do you think?

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[mtbtim]

Hey [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] sorry for the late response but here's a picture of that leaking seal I have. Seems to far in to be the cv boot. What do you think?

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I would have to say the leak you're experiencing there is the outer oil seal for the differential. It would require you to pull your the CV axle, use a seal puller to remove the old seal and then use a seal driver to pop a new one in.

I've never done one but it can't be that difficult. Having the right tools (seal puller and seal driver) instead of some makeshift tool would probably make it easier but there's always more than one way to get a job done and I imagine there's some ingenious ways to get the job done with other tools and techniques.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Nice TBU video. A night and day performance in stopping. I will say that my 4runner seemed quicker with the stock brakes though.

FYI I have always used vacuum caps to fit over the brake lines to stop fluid. I have had them on lines for days without any problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-799-350-Vacuum-Value-Pack/dp/B002IAZ4S8

Sly Glide is the best stuff I have found for lubricating sliding pins, etc for brake parts. Also works well on weather stripping. Found at NAPA for $6:
Sil-Glyde® Lubricating Compound ? 4 oz.

 

[OldManKamps]

Hey Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. It's the famous TBU or Tundra Brake Upgrade. We did the job on [MENTION=98597]Jayjayb96[/MENTION] rig. We also had a little 3rd Gen get-together the same day and you can hear the chatter in the background while we're shooting the video. It was a fun day and we'll be doing it again soon.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P8zy-j4UBUo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

I have a question for you Timothy! How much of a stopping power difference is there between the 231 and the 199 vs. stock 4Runner? Will you notice it a lot with the 231 and not so much with the 199? Or will both provide a much greater difference than the stock 4Runner?

 

[Jayjayb96]

Hey Dudes, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. It's the famous TBU or Tundra Brake Upgrade. We did the job on [MENTION=98597]Jayjayb96[/MENTION] rig. We also had a little 3rd Gen get-together the same day and you can hear the chatter in the background while we're shooting the video. It was a fun day and we'll be doing it again soon.

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/P8zy-j4UBUo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Sup fellas! Just an update...ive noticed a huge improvement on braking power since [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] did the swap. The only thing that felt a lil weird at first was that the pedal seemed softer after the swap. Tim bled the brakes about 4 times so im certain that theres no air in the bubbles but i might try another round or two just to be sure. I also read that other members have experienced the softer pedal issue and think it maybe caused but having a smaller brake mastee cyclinder and needs the tundra MC to match the fluid volume; not sure if anyones done this yet.

Since the upgrade, i can say that it doesnt shutter at all compared to the stock setup. I feel safer and more confident especially with the rain coming in more this season. Again thanks to tim and sean for allowing me to be part of the TBU! One of many great informational DIY vidoes for us and look forward to seeing everyone in the future for another meet/trip.

Nice TBU video. A night and day performance in stopping. I will say that my 4runner seemed quicker with the stock brakes though.

FYI I have always used vacuum caps to fit over the brake lines to stop fluid. I have had them on lines for days without any problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-799-350-Vacuum-Value-Pack/dp/B002IAZ4S8

Sly Glide is the best stuff I have found for lubricating sliding pins, etc for brake parts. Also works well on weather stripping. Found at NAPA for $6:
Sil-Glyde® Lubricating Compound ? 4 oz.

Great advice. Ill have to pick those up

 

[mtbtim]

Nice TBU video. A night and day performance in stopping. I will say that my 4runner seemed quicker with the stock brakes though.

FYI I have always used vacuum caps to fit over the brake lines to stop fluid. I have had them on lines for days without any problems:
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-799-350-Vacuum-Value-Pack/dp/B002IAZ4S8

Sly Glide is the best stuff I have found for lubricating sliding pins, etc for brake parts. Also works well on weather stripping. Found at NAPA for $6:
Sil-Glyde® Lubricating Compound ? 4 oz.

I actually bought a vacuum cap set for this job but chose to use the little plugs instead. The next time I disconnect a brake line, I'll try out using a vacuum cap to stop the leaking.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

I have a question for you Timothy! How much of a stopping power difference is there between the 231 and the 199 vs. stock 4Runner? Will you notice it a lot with the 231 and not so much with the 199? Or will both provide a much greater difference than the stock 4Runner?

I couldn't say for sure because I have no personal experience with either of them. I do remember people saying the 199mm TBU did improve their braking over stock but the ones that went with the 231mm option experienced the biggest difference. Hopefully members with the 199 and 231 will chime in on their experience.

Sent from my XT1060 using Tapatalk

 

[mtbtim]

Sup fellas! Just an update...ive noticed a huge improvement on braking power since [MENTION=120071]mtbtim[/MENTION] and [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] did the swap. The only thing that felt a lil weird at first was that the pedal seemed softer after the swap. Tim bled the brakes about 4 times so im certain that theres no air in the bubbles but i might try another round or two just to be sure. I also read that other members have experienced the softer pedal issue and think it maybe caused but having a smaller brake mastee cyclinder and needs the tundra MC to match the fluid volume; not sure if anyones done this yet.

Since the upgrade, i can say that it doesnt shutter at all compared to the stock setup. I feel safer and more confident especially with the rain coming in more this season. Again thanks to tim and sean for allowing me to be part of the TBU! One of many great informational DIY vidoes for us and look forward to seeing everyone in the future for another meet/trip.




Great advice. Ill have to pick those up

Hey Jay, if you want, I'll bleed the brakes another time or two for you just be sure. I don't see how any air could still be in there but let's just make sure it's all good for you. PM me and we'll set up a time to do it.

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