3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

DIY mechanics like myself,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and tons of others on this forum prove day in and day out that we can do most everything the paid professionals do and often time much better because we're taking our time and not rushing to get to the next repair.


I just like to take shit apart. Always have since I was a little kid. Sometimes I can even get it to go back together. lol

I got away from doing my own work for a few years. Not that there was much to to. Our DD is a 2003 VW Jetta TDI(pre-scandal year). There really well known for just running without much needing to be done. Since I got the 4Runner though, it's put the fun back in wrenching. I might even pull it into the garage tonight to add an old 400W amp I pulled out of my van. :guitar2:
 
I just like to take shit apart. Always have since I was a little kid. Sometimes I can even get it to go back together. lol

I got away from doing my own work for a few years. Not that there was much to to. Our DD is a 2003 VW Jetta TDI(pre-scandal year). There really well known for just running without much needing to be done. Since I got the 4Runner though, it's put the fun back in wrenching. I might even pull it into the garage tonight to add an old 400W amp I pulled out of my van. :guitar2:

Did you ever replace your rear main seal?
 
Did you ever replace your rear main seal?

Remember my mechanic buddy that told me to try that Blue Devil stop leak? I put that shit in over 6,000 miles ago and at my last oil change added another bottle. The leak is barely even there anymore. Like I drove from here to Cochise and back, about 1600 miles, and the truck lost no oil at all. I was pretty hesitant to put that stuff in but it actually did what it claimed it would do.

I promise you as soon as it starts to go again, I will drive the rig to your place and let you make a vid of it. It's a pretty easy repair to do but getting to that little gasket is a PIA. The felpro rear main seal kit is about 20 bucks. So 8 hours(maybe less but not by much) to replace a 20 dollar gasket. lol
 
Remember my mechanic buddy that told me to try that Blue Devil stop leak? I put that shit in over 6,000 miles ago and at my last oil change added another bottle. The leak is barely even there anymore. Like I drove from here to Cochise and back, about 1600 miles, and the truck lost no oil at all. I was pretty hesitant to put that stuff in but it actually did what it claimed it would do.

I promise you as soon as it starts to go again, I will drive the rig to your place and let you make a vid of it. It's a pretty easy repair to do but getting to that little gasket is a PIA. The felpro rear main seal kit is about 20 bucks. So 8 hours(maybe less but not by much) to replace a 20 dollar gasket. lol

[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] have already been there when we swapped his auto trans recently. We were ready to replace the rear main seal but decided to go with the line of thinking, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it". There was absolutely no signs of leaking so we left it alone. We were also going to replace the flex plate but it looked perfect, no signs of cracks. A new flex plate is $250. So, we haven't replaced a rear main seal but I reckon we'll do it one day for somebody.
 
The felpro rear main seal kit is about 20 bucks. So 8 hours(maybe less but not by much) to replace a 20 dollar gasket. lol

I read on a tacoma forum that someone replaced their rear main with a felpro and it leaked immediately. Just buy the OEM seal man. It takes way too much work to get to that seal only to have it leak on you.
 
Got an odd question, but Tim (or anyone else) any chance you could show how to remove front passenger fender/quarter panel? Mines dented and I would like to avoid paying $600 at a body shop for a new one
 
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Got an odd question, but Tim (or anyone else) any chance you could show how to remove front passenger fender/quarter panel? Mines dented and I would like to avoid paying $600 at a body shop for a new one



Open hood and remove the 3 10mm bolts. Then open the passenger front door and remove the 1 10mm bolt on the top
Next remove the 2 10mm bolts under the rear fender well.
Last is remove the 4 10mm bolts on the inner gender well.
That takes care of the fender. You also need to remove the marker lamp on the front fender using a Phillips screwdriver


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Open hood and remove the 3 10mm bolts. Then open the passenger front door and remove the 1 10mm bolt on the top
Next remove the 2 10mm bolts under the rear fender well.
Last is remove the 4 10mm bolts on the inner gender well.
That takes care of the fender. You also need to remove the marker lamp on the front fender using a Phillips screwdriver


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for answering the question for him. I was going to refer it to [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] since I know he's robbed a fender off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a local Pick and Pull.
 
Thanks for answering the question for him. I was going to refer it to [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] since I know he's robbed a fender off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a local Pick and Pull.



Your very welcome and thanks to you all for all these videos. Just because I'm a tech, it doesn't mean that the videos don't make a difference.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
A week ago, I was heading out on a mountain bike ride and I started my truck. The starter kept turning and was grinding against the flywheel. I turned off the ignition and the starter was still trying to turn over the motor. Weird, right? Luckily I was home so I popped the hood, ran into the garage, grabbed a pair of channel locks and twisted the negative cable off the battery to stop the starter. After some research on-line, I found this can happen with starters. I suspected worn contacts could be the cause but why would it stick like that. After seeing write-ups and a video on replacing the contacts in the solenoid, it's common that the copper contacts wear unevenly. Maybe it's because the main power to the starter is connected to that contact? I don't know. The larger of the two contacts in the solenoid is worn thin and the smaller one is only worn a little. It's my guess this uneven wearing of the contacts can possibly cause the plunger to get cocked in there when it engages and cause it to stay engaged. Who knows. Anyway, replacing the contacts and plunger fixed my problem.

Here's the video I did of the repair. Enjoy the show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/WV1t5-wcoOI" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
Hey guys, I just wanted to address something about the starter removal task. Everything in the video is spot on except if you have aftermarket upper control arms, like me, you will not be able to remove the starter through the fender like in the video. The only way I was able to remove it was by removing the steering rack and pulling it out the bottom. I know some people can replace the plunger and contacts without removing the starter but I had a busted bearing and had to replace the entire starter. Just wanted to make sure this info was mentioned before anyone jumps into a job that becomes a lot more then what they expected.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk
 
Hey guys, I just wanted to address something about the starter removal task. Everything in the video is spot on except if you have aftermarket upper control arms, like me, you will not be able to remove the starter through the fender like in the video. The only way I was able to remove it was by removing the steering rack and pulling it out the bottom. I know some people can replace the plunger and contacts without removing the starter but I had a busted bearing and had to replace the entire starter. Just wanted to make sure this info was mentioned before anyone jumps into a job that becomes a lot more then what they expected.

Sent from my SM-G930V using Tapatalk

This is good to know. What UCAs are you running? I'm wondering which would be easier. Removing the UCA or the steering rack. For the UCA, you'd have to disconnect the upper joint/balljoint and then remove the long bolt that hold the UCA to the frame. The steering rack has 3 fasteners that hold it to the frame with the middle bolt being the hardest to deal with. I think I'd lean towards removing the UCA instead to get the starter out but I guess it would depend if you had someone helping you. To get the long bolt out and in for the UCA, it helps to have someone reaching into the engine compartment to facilitate the bolt removal and installation.
 
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This is good to know. What UCAs are you running? I'm wondering which would be easier. Removing the UCA or the steering rack. For the UCA, you'd have to disconnect the upper joint/balljoint and then remove the long bolt that hold the UCA to the frame. The steering rack has 3 fasteners that hold it to the frame with the middle bolt being the hardest to deal with. I think I'd lean towards removing the UCA instead to get the starter out but I guess it would depend if you had someone helping you. To get the long bolt out and in for the UCA, it helps to have someone reaching into the engine compartment to facilitate the bolt removal and installation.
I'm running the all pro UCA's. I considered removing that but I already had the runner on a lift so pulling the rack wasn't very difficult.

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Rear Axle Seal/Bearing Replacement Videos

Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have a double feature for you. If you were looking for a video tutorial to do the whole job on your own so you don't get bent over at a shop or have to pay a machine shop to do the press work for you, we got you covered. We have a video for ABS Rearends and Non-ABS Rearends.

Here's the videos and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/AVhSDnw2ugo" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/vW25hvODHcs" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Just wanted to stop in and say thank you for all the extremely useful videos!

As someone new to T4Rs some of these have been and will be extremely useful. I've got to tackle the valve covers, LBJs, and springs struts/shocks in the next few weeks and each video has been feeling prepared to handle anything that comes up.
 
Just wanted to stop in and say thank you for all the extremely useful videos!

As someone new to T4Rs some of these have been and will be extremely useful. I've got to tackle the valve covers, LBJs, and springs struts/shocks in the next few weeks and each video has been feeling prepared to handle anything that comes up.

For our part, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I say, "You're welcome." Good luck with all the work. If you have any questions, just ask.
 
For our part, [MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I say, "You're welcome." Good luck with all the work. If you have any questions, just ask.


Hopefully not too many but I am looking at the options floating around T4R for tightening the crank bolt when doing the timing belt. Looks like the bar stock option might be easy to do. Have you have good luck with anything outside of the $70 tool?
 
Hopefully not too many but I am looking at the options floating around T4R for tightening the crank bolt when doing the timing belt. Looks like the bar stock option might be easy to do. Have you have good luck with anything outside of the $70 tool?

I haven't done a timing belt job yet but it's coming most likely sometime this year. Many have made a holding tool with a couple bolts and a 2x4.
 
Havent watched it yet but I downloaded it for my 3 hour flight tomorrow. The other passenger are going to think im nuts. Some people watch "pretty little liars", I prefer to watch something useful if Im trapped in an aluminum can for 3 hours. Cant wait to watch it!
 

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