3rd Gen T4R DIY Maintenance, Repair and Modification Videos

Thanks for all the content and information Tim and Sean, it is much appreciated!

Saying hello from Sacramento.

Can we please get this thread stickied?

You're welcome and Howdy back at you.

I don't think this thread or any other will ever be stickied because the mods for this 3rd Gen section of the forum have already determined how they want to organize it. All links to helpful threads like this one are listed in the stickied 3rd Gen Informational Thread above.

Sean and I have get-togethers every once in a while at my place in San Jose and we list these events on this thread: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/209965-official-bay-area-mod-meet-greet-thread.html

Subscribe to the thread and you'll be notified anytime somebody posts on it. Maybe you can make it to our next one which will probably be in the Spring when the weather gets warmer.

Also, I suggest you subscribe to our YouTube channel, "Timmy the Toolman". If you subscribe, you'll be notified every time we upload a new video. Here's a link to our channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9EMiD9KPy61kJ6hdXcbjxA
 
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Toyota Timing Belt Replacement (PART 2) for 3.4L V6 5VZ-FE

Part 2 to this job came about because Sean and I had to investigate a noise that surfaced 2 weeks after we finished his Timing Belt Replacement. To say the least, we weren't excited that we had to tear apart the front of his engine again but the good thing is we are now able to show you some things we didn't show in Part 1. https://youtu.be/vHC46ypHxWc

The Big One we're able to show you is an easier way to getting the timing belt on. In Part 1 we fought the belt and ended up using a plastic tire iron to lever the belt up onto the #1 idler pulley. In this video, we use the technique of backing off the tensioner bolts a little to make it much easier to slip the belt on. It worked great!

We also show you how you'd compress your tensioner in a vice so you can reuse it, a final way to confirm your timing belt is on correctly and share some advice when dealing with the aluminum oil pump body when pulling parts off and putting them back on.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/mErd7xoBS9I" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
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crank bolt tightening

Your guy's videos are great :cowboy:

I made a tool for the Chevy in my sig out of a long piece of 1/8" plate steel with 4 holes that you bolt to the balancer pulley-mounting holes then leverage against the front crossmember (in that truck) and tighten the crank bolt through the larger 4th hole in the center of the pattern.

In the past I've put grade 8 bolts in 2 of the pulley holes of the balancer and used a long wrench or bar leveraged between the bolts to keep the crank from turning - but I got tired of the wrench falling so I made the tool above.

It's amazing what you can do with too much time on your hands.

BTW, how do you guys open and close the 14mm bolts on the drive shaft to pinion flange on the 4runner?
I've been using 2 long box wrenches (and sometimes a jack stand) since a socket and breaker bar won't fit. I use torque wrench with a crow's foot to tighten the nuts to spec.
 
BTW, how do you guys open and close the 14mm bolts on the drive shaft to pinion flange on the 4runner?
I've been using 2 long box wrenches (and sometimes a jack stand) since a socket and breaker bar won't fit. I use torque wrench with a crow's foot to tighten the nuts to spec.

I use a long 14mm box end on the back side and a impact on the front side. I use a 3/8" impact gun, short extension, and a short 14mm socket. When it comes time to torque it down, I use the same long 14mm box end on the back side and a 3/8" torque wrench, short extension and short 14mm socket.

Now, for the driveshaft connection to the transfer case, I couldn't get a torque wrench on there so I just got them tight with a couple long 14mm box end wrenches.
 
V8 Swap (5VZ-FE 3.4L V6 to 2UZ-FE 4.7L V8)

Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] (aka Sean) and I have a very cool video for you. Sean met [MENTION=152326]mikentosh[/MENTION] at a PickNPull in San Jose, CA, and long story short, we found out Mikey was going to do a V8 Swap in his 3rd Gen 4runner. We expressed interest in filming the project and Mikey allowed us to join in on the fun. Mikey has a friend Wes that owns a custom hotrod shop in Santa Clara, CA and that's where most of the work happened. Wes was also cool with us filming at his shop, so to say the least, we were very excited we were getting to be a part of this.

We hope you like it.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Fce7IgMTdKg" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
can't wait to have a look at this. I am more excited at this 1:20H youtube MTBTIM video than the next stereotypical super hero movie.
 
Sunroof Drain Cleaning

Do you have water dripping from areas of your headliner? Do you have a sunroof in your vehicle? If the answer is Yes to both questions, watch this video to try to isolate where your leak is coming from. It could be because you have clogged sunroof drains that need to cleared.

You can clear your own drains with a little persuasion from weed whacker line or some other type of solid line you can snake in the drains.

**In the video, I say the driver side rear drain travels down the B-Pillar but it actually travels down the C-Pillar and then over the wheel-well.

**Some people have employed the use of compressed air but you need to be careful if you choose this method. If you use too high of air pressure, you could force the drain tube off the fitting and then you'd be forced to pull down your headliner so you can reattach the drain tube.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qalXo4etX3Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
1:20 wow!

wow timmy the tool man,

i haven't been around much lately, but what a great video you and sean put together and hats off to mikey for an amazing job on his V8 swap! it was worth the popcorn to watch it all.

for $12k i'd want to check what's the tow rating on a 4gen V8... but still super cool.

my only complaint: we didn't get to hear it running or see it driving, i thought we'd get a close up of a 4.7 burnout!

thanks guys for all your effort in sharing that.
 
wow timmy the tool man,

i haven't been around much lately, but what a great video you and sean put together and hats off to mikey for an amazing job on his V8 swap! it was worth the popcorn to watch it all.

for $12k i'd want to check what's the tow rating on a 4gen V8... but still super cool.

my only complaint: we didn't get to hear it running or see it driving, i thought we'd get a close up of a 4.7 burnout!

thanks guys for all your effort in sharing that.

You can hear it running at the very beginning of the video. As for driving footage, we didn't think of it but I don't know how we would have shot this to make it interesting. If we had a drone to film with, that would have been some cool footage.
 
Do you have water dripping from areas of your headliner? Do you have a sunroof in your vehicle? If the answer is Yes to both questions, watch this video to try to isolate where your leak is coming from. It could be because you have clogged sunroof drains that need to cleared.

You can clear your own drains with a little persuasion from weed whacker line or some other type of solid line you can snake in the drains.

**In the video, I say the driver side rear drain travels down the B-Pillar but it actually travels down the C-Pillar and then over the wheel-well.

**Some people have employed the use of compressed air but you need to be careful if you choose this method. If you use too high of air pressure, you could force the drain tube off the fitting and then you'd be forced to pull down your headliner so you can reattach the drain tube.

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/qalXo4etX3Q" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



Maybe I should have cleaned my truck out a little better before this [emoji23].
The video turned out good though.
 
Rear Lower Control Arm Bushing Replacement

Hey Dudes,
[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] let us use his rig as a test vehicle for replacing the rear lower control bushings. Mark chose some aftermarket Whiteline Polyurethane bushings as the replacements instead of using OEM. Mark did report back that his rear end has way less movement now after the job. So, it was a success!

Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nq-lzK7CPKQ" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Excellent. Need to do this.

My local Harbor Freight had the 20 ton press for $139, plus $20 off for the three day weekend. The manager told me they should have the same sale in a couple of weeks FYI...
 
Excellent. Need to do this.

My local Harbor Freight had the 20 ton press for $139, plus $20 off for the three day weekend. The manager told me they should have the same sale in a couple of weeks FYI...

Get it! I've used my Harbor Freight press quite a bit and it works great. The braces for the bottom didn't fit exactly right and I had to widen a couple of the bolt holes to get them bolted on. Also, the press rod on the display model wasn't exactly welded on to the cross member very square so I checked out the one they brought out of the back before I purchased it and took it home. The press rod was still a little wonky but much straighter than the display out on the floor.

It paid for itself in one use.
 
This is an awesome thread, I just recently got a 4R but I have had a couple of miatas (still have one) and there is no thread like this on miata forums with so many videos. Thanks to the OP.
 
Hey Dudes,


[MENTION=102606]infamousRNR[/MENTION] and I have another video for you. [MENTION=144752]MarkamisPrime[/MENTION] let us use his rig as a test vehicle for replacing the rear lower control bushings. Mark chose some aftermarket Whiteline Polyurethane bushings as the replacements instead of using OEM. Mark did report back that his rear end has way less movement now after the job. So, it was a success!



Here's the video and Enjoy the Show!



<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/nq-lzK7CPKQ" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allowfullscreen></iframe>



Most definitely a success
All the sway I thought was from my soft superflex coils was actually cause of my work out LCA bushings.
I used to have to slow down for dips and bumps in the hwy cause it felt like the rear end was going to come out from under me. But now it feels stout and the way that it should.
I am going to try and source the RUCA white line bushings and replace those also.
 
This is an awesome thread, I just recently got a 4R but I have had a couple of miatas (still have one) and there is no thread like this on miata forums with so many videos. Thanks to the OP.

I have a civic, and the civic forums are nothing like T4R, not even 10%.
 
Sunroof drains

Maybe I should have cleaned my truck out a little better before this [emoji23].
The video turned out good though.

I worked on VW Beetles way back when I was in college and we used an old speedo cable center core to clean out sunroof drains. I kept trying to figure what to use on my 4runner-weed wacker cable is perfect and I just bought a spool. Thanks for saving my ass, again!
 
ARB Bumper Install

If you're in the market for an aftermarket bumper for your 3rd Gen 4runner, and you were considering buying an ARB bumper, we have a video you can use for the install. Even if you choose another brand of aftermarket bumper, the video does still have some value because we show you how to get your stock bumper off.

Enjoy the Show!

<iframe width="560" height="315" src="https://www.youtube.com/embed/Wey2f8n0Klc" frameborder="0" gesture="media" allow="encrypted-media" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 

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