3rd generation 3.4L 4runner Spark Plug/Wire Change Writeup

[kingbiscuit]

I couldn't find a good writeup on changing the sparkplugs for a 3rd Gen 4runner. I bought a manual and it was equally as useless, so I was left only with the guidance of one of my roommates who knows a little about cars. I know this is basic stuff for alot of people but I am guessing I am not the only one here who isn't very knowledgeable about even basic maintenance like this, so here it is, and feel free to critique me cause Im new doing car work. For some reason tuneups are like $100 just for labor everywhere I checked for my 4runner that is why I did it myself. Considering on the 3.4L it is suppose to happen every 30K miles that can save you money in the long run.

All of these pictures I basically just took so I wouldn't forget how to put things back together, so I figured I would do a writeup.

The main thing that threw me off when I started the tune up is only 3 spark plug wires have the traditional sort of long connectors with the seals. That threw me off, and I thought there were 2 sets of wires and PepBoys left one of them out of the box. Well I was wrong. 3 of the wires hook up directly to the spark plugs and three hookup to the coilpacks and the sparkplugs are underneath. I am guessing the coilpack somehow regulates which cylnder to send the charge to. Maybe somebody more experienced can explain it. Anyways 3 of the wires have small snap fixtures that hook to the coil packs.

Just some basics before you get started. Get a 10 mm wrench or socket for all the little bolts you have to remove, and a 5/8

 

[rearviewmirror]

Thanks for the write-up.. there was one on-line for quite some time.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/tacoma_4runner_30k/maintenancep3.html

 

[kingbiscuit]

Thanks for the write-up.. there was one on-line for quite some time.

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/tacoma_4runner_30k/maintenancep3.html

Damn, that was kind of a waste of time. Oh well. It was good to at least see I did it right, and also they completely removed the intake which is kind of unnecessary, so I did it a slightly different way. I had to figure out using the wire connectors for screwing in the plugs. I didn't exactly have fuel line lying around.

What is anti-seize lubricant. I didn't use that.

Also I am thinking about changing my exhaust manifold myself but I want to see a writeup on it before I get in too deep. Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Anybody have an opinion on how important using a torque wrench is? I have never used it and this is probably my 3rd tuneup all on different vehicles. I just don't have one in my tool box.

 

[Ron Helmuth]

extensive write up most appreciated

kingbiscuit I thank you for the nice writeup and excellent detailed markings on the photos. This is a real help to us non -mechanically inclined owners out here.

Anti seize lubricant or compound is to treat the threads of the sparkplug to keep them from locking into place, basically it allows you to remove them later without cracking the spark plug in two pieces-I have done that myself on a Mazda 626.

A torque wrench is pretty important, but I am 45 and just got my first one. Like any tool don't use it if you don't know how to work it. There are a number of vehicle uses for a torque wrench-for example my lug nuts are/should be torqued to 85 ft/lbs. It is a little tricky the first few times in setting the figure desired on the torque wrench, and then making it "click-click" just enough times to reach that figure.

The spark plugs likely have their own torque-ing figure-and that amount of force is a measurement to quantify your "gut" feeling on how tight is tight enough.

Thanks for taking the time to help us all out.:awais:

 

[Ghostrider]

A hint on the wires since I just did mine Saturday. Only take off one wire at a time. Measure it against the new wires and replace it with the same size. Hard to lose track if you only take one off at a time. The hardest part was threadng the new wire into the existing clamps. The new set came with new clamps but that would have required taking all the wires off at once. As far as anti sieze goes - I would go back and add it. It will only take 30 minutes or so. It prevents the plug from sticking or siezing into the engine. Anti sieze is ued whenever you thread steel into aluminum.

 

[kingbiscuit]

A hint on the wires since I just did mine Saturday. Only take off one wire at a time. Measure it against the new wires and replace it with the same size. Hard to lose track if you only take one off at a time. The hardest part was threadng the new wire into the existing clamps. The new set came with new clamps but that would have required taking all the wires off at once. As far as anti sieze goes - I would go back and add it. It will only take 30 minutes or so. It prevents the plug from sticking or siezing into the engine. Anti sieze is ued whenever you thread steel into aluminum.

I think there might have already been anti-seize on the plugs. I noticed there were little cardboard covers on the threaded parts of the sparkplugs, and when I touched them the felt sort of slick but didn't leave a greasy feeling.

Here is the brand it doesn't mention anti-seize online.
http://jobs.boschusa.com/AutoParts/SparkPlugs/Platinum2/

 

[Ghostrider]

You probably should search for "platinum" on this forum. I think I remember a few articles discussing possible issues with platinum plugs and the ignition system Toyota uses.

 

[BadHabit]

The cardboard tubes are there to protect the ground strap. This dosen't mean the gap is set and shouldn't be checked...you should always gap the plugs according to Toyota's specs.

ALWAYS apply anti-seize to your sparkplug threads. Metal sparkplug threads in your aluminum heads without antiseize is a recipe for disaster when the plugs come back out. Aluminum is soft, and the threads in your heads can pull out if there is no lubricant on them when you remove the plugs next time. Yes, the antiseize will last 75K or more miles until the next plug change.
BTW...I have never seen a sparkplug come with antiseize already applied. I use only NGK in my trucks, though. Not the expensive ones, either. (I'm too cheap.)

 

[kingbiscuit]

Im getting tired of the ongoing debate about Platinum spark plugs in coil on top design ignition. I have read several unverified things here and online, but I haven't seen anything definitive. I called Pepboys about it and they said almost all new cars have coil on top designs with platinum plugs. Can anyone give me anything definitive??

 

[broncosi]

Kingbiscuit, whered your writeup go!?!

the other one poster is 404 now removed a little while back and yours is gone too. I would love to read one of these.

Thanks for the write-up.. there was one on-line for quite some time.

404 - 4x4Wire.com

 

[broncosi]

Nevermind, nix that, found a good one here: 3rd Gen Spark Plug Write Up

 

[mochilln00]

So according to the NGK website, Anti-seize on their lugs actually increases the chances of breaking the plugs during installation. It alters the thread friction and causes a false sense of torque. They have a coating called Trivalent Plating which provides corrosion resistance and a natural anti seize property. So don't put anti seize on these plugs.

 

[RoxToy00]

OK, i appreciate the research and development and engineering and manufacturing and parts specing/sourcing dollars that go into OEM parts development. BUT WHY IN THE HELL do Toyota parts cost so much more than aftermarket parts, decades later??? Just priced parts for a tune-up on my 2000 4runner 3.4 V6 2x4 auto (plugs, wires, coil packs), and figured may as well replace the injectors while i was at it, as I would have to make the same tear-down for injector replacement that has to be done for a tune-up (appears the original injectors were still in service at 240K miles, bless 'em). But $560 !!!???
I did some research/checking (semi-retired attorney, computer research has made me a lot of money) and found NEW injectors, spec dual electro plugs, 3 coil packs and wires, and the throttle body and plenum gaskets (necessary replacements when you take the fuel injection system apart to get to the coil packs and plugs), all for less than $200 delivered to my door, on Ebay.
Yes, I would rather buy from the dealer. Yes, I would love to have that close relationship with people I would like to depend on to maintain my daily transportation. Yes. I have bought a few beers for dealer service managers and dealer techs in my past years. And I have learned, and I am sure the reader knows, that to build a $30K car from the parts sourced from the dealership parts department would cost $100K. A real pity, an open secret, and a fraud on the public.
I cut my teeth wrenching on '60s and '70s muscle and "fun" cars. After watching Timmy the Tool Man and a few other videos, I see nothing to prevent me from tuning up this little fuel-injected V6, but dealer parts prices are OUTRAGEOUS. I understand "Toyota reliability" that is engineered into, and expected from, the branded parts. But when shop managers tell me they regularly use Ebay parts to cut overhead, why should I pay dealer service prices for something I can do myself, with the same Ebay parts??

 

[Justastock3rdgen]

A hint on the wires since I just did mine Saturday. Only take off one wire at a time. Measure it against the new wires and replace it with the same size. Hard to lose track if you only take one off at a time. The hardest part was threadng the new wire into the existing clamps. The new set came with new clamps but that would have required taking all the wires off at once. As far as anti sieze goes - I would go back and add it. It will only take 30 minutes or so. It prevents the plug from sticking or siezing into the engine. Anti sieze is ued whenever you thread steel into aluminum.

Thanks for the tip, I should have done the same thing with mine, but I didn't think about it. Previous owners weren't great on it, almost looks like they were 100,000 miles overdue. It was so bad that the inside of the plug wire boot was separated from the boot and stuck on the plug.