4.0L V6 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

[BlackWorksInc]

OK! My bad, now I see it, -thanks to the PDF. There are two small spots where some RTV needs to be applied. Got it. Sorry about my confusion.

The idea is that where the front cover and cylinder head meet, there might be a small enough difference in height that the rubber gasket cannot seal properly and it could leak. Many vehicles have this where the front cover or three surfaces meet, even with a gasket as a precautionary measure.

 

[Riseagainst]

Thread is from 10 years ago, I don't think the OP is still around. I'd try simple green, that stuff is very good. I'm jealous of his clean valve covers, mine are all pitted (rust belt).

EDIT: Brake cleaner is a favorite of my mechanic friend to clean just about anything.

FYI Simple green IS corrosive to aluminum. It is indeed a good cleaner of nearly all things it should be noted and remembered. While it won't melt the block I just like to make sure people know before spraying it on everything they see.

 

[CookieRoe]

FYI Simple green IS corrosive to aluminum. It is indeed a good cleaner of nearly all things it should be noted and remembered. While it won't melt the block I just like to make sure people know before spraying it on everything they see.

Thanks!! I never got around to "detailing" my engine bay, I always wanted to try at least something on the block. Like I mentioned, mine is all crusty, so I doubt I can do much. (without physically taking parts off and having them machined)

I remember religiously using Simple Green on my mags when we had Grand Cherokees in my family "fleet" (we had 3 at one point). MASSIVE/STUPID mistake. While I properly dried them off, I'm convinced it (SG) dried them up and aided in their corrosion. What I do now is treat all mag wheels as I do with the body (wash and wax). Hell, I don't even put tire shine anymore. I use a little Amour All and I'm done.

Thanks!

 

[Marde]

Thanks everyone for your help and answers on this a few months ago. I am going to do this job tomorrow or the day after.

I just reviewed this thread as a refresher prior to doing the work... and noticed the OP pictures have the gasket stuck on the engine block after removing the valve covers -but- he has the new gasket stuck on the valve cover prior to re-installation... ??? - uh, looks that way doesn't it?

So, I am asking which side would you would stick the valve cover gasket on before you re-assemble the engine? <gasket on the cover or on the engine?>

Based on my guesses, I plan to stick/push/seal the gasket onto the engine block first -and then- seat the valve cover on. You guys agree?

I have the new gaskets in my hand, and it seems like the gasket ribs want to lock-onto the engine side first; and onto the valve cover last (?)

i'm newb-ish on this stuff, Thanks for any feedback. Cheers!

Edit: would you guys use high-temp "red" sealant on those two small spots that need it, or something rated different?

 

[fdbyrne]

When I did mine on my Tacoma, there was a recess in the valve cover itself that you had to set the gasket into. It pushed in evenly with only thumb strength and held tightly while the entire valve cover was placed on the head. I really don't think it's possible to put the gasket on the head and then line up the valve cover just right to get it to seat. If it is possible, it would definitely be the hard way to do it and increase the odds of it not seating correctly.

To be fair, that was a different engine so this one might be different. I'm confident that you'll know immediately when you take the valve cover off, flip it over, and look at it closely.

 

[Marde]

I'm confident that you'll know immediately when you take the valve cover off, flip it over, and look at it closely.

Yep. Hands/eyes on the cover & engine block will figure out and answer most of my questions. Thank you for your reply.

OP's pics had me confused, -I will figure it out tomorrow using my special tools known as "eyeballs". Still guessing this one should be stuck onto the engine side first. I will post back after the job is done. Thanks again.

 

[Marde]

Whoops. Yeah, I had my guesses n looks all bass-ackwards... Now I see how the gasket does press into the valve cover first. Pfffft, sorry.

Leaving that other question about Red sealant (?) out there though... ?

 

[nasdamus]

i will be doing this on saturday. I'm going to use Toyota fipg 00295-00103 ($15 on amazon), though i think the Permatex Ultra Grey is another option. There's some good info here too: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-gen-t4rs/147322-valve-cover-gasket-replacement.html

 

[Marde]

Yep. Hands/eyes on the cover & engine block will figure out and answer most of my questions. Thank you for your reply.

Replaced the VC gaskets, spark plugs, cleaned MAF and TB last weekend. Ended up using some Pematex Ultra Copper on those two small spots-> tiny gap between engine block & timing cover. Used this type of sealant only because I had it on hand, opened it last year, and it was designed for this type of application. Had an overnight (12+ hour) cure time prior to running.

100 miles driven already and no problems.

The only hang-up/lesson I had was the wire harness mounting on the back-side (firewall side) of the VC. Could not get those two clamps disconnected from the stand-off bracket. Instead of disconnecting the clamps from the stand-off bracket, I removed the stand-off bracket from the VC; a single bolt.

Called local Toyota dealership for quote on this VC gasket + spark plugs job; $997 includes tax. They included valve spring lash/check/adjustment; something I did not do -or- know how to do. I included lots of TLC and engine cleaning, something they might not have done.

Thanks OP and others for your help. Thanks for the Torque spec. I did 80 in-lbs on the VC bolts. :thanks::thanks:

 

[acronin2]

Leaky valve cover??

I know this is an old thread but I am hoping you guys can help.

I changed my spark plugs this weekend on my 2004 Sport V6 with 133k and I noticed that there was a small amount of oil on each of the coils, about half way up the plastic part (see pic below). I am thinking that this is due to a leaky valve cover gasket like the OP was experiencing. I check the oil regularly and have never noticed any significant loss of oil between oil changes.

1. Would you guys agree that this is likely due to a leaky valve cover gasket?
2. How urgent is it that I get this fixed immediately? Will this cause significant damage to other parts of the engine, etc.?


Assuming it is the valve cover gasket, I would like to try to do the repair myself to save the money. I am pretty confident I can handle it with the help/advise of some of the forum members here. The only thing that makes me hesitant is that I am sure that some of the bolts are gonna have significant rust. I bought the car used with 91k and had the spark plugs changed at 100k by a mechanic because the six bolts holding on the spark plug coils were very rusty and I didn't want to break them off. I had my mechanic replace those bolts but I have a feeling some of the other bolts on valve cover are going to be pretty rusty.

Thanks for reading, any and all advise is welcomed.

 

[Johnnibanner4run]

So I was reading this and I'm confused on torque bolt specs and sealer.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

 

[Tex-Tac]

Sub'd

 

[4Rnr4Evr]

After I changed my plugs last night I found the same oil leak. I will be doing this soon. I've already some experience with taking the intake assy off and it wasn't particularly hard. Plan to replace all bolts I can as well.

 

[Supersonic]

Yes get inch pound torque wrench and be careful, as stated bolt B is inner 3, bolt A is perimeter bolts. Instructions read " Tighten the bolts and nuts uniformly in several steps."

Going to do this soon too, but also add checking the valve clearance. I usually do the spark plugs as they are easier to get at, but seems the plugs are recently changed. You may also want to do this to ease any anxiety about wear, it is a fairly easy task to adjust if necessary.

Unlike the bucket type in the 1.8 Matrix, I also got ~300k on that one two, but mercifully both have no unusual noise, which I think is the test for some, at least on the Matrix ain't nothing happening to adjust the buckets unless the heads come off.

Should just be a shim to replace on the 4.0 V6 4Runner if adjustment is needed, though I am not there yet.

Anyone got tips or links to <big><b>"checking the valve clearance"</big></b> and could add here would be greatly appreciated.

WHOA! Hold it! You will break those valve cover bolts. I'm trying to send you the FSM page but that 137 Kb limit is way too small. "Bolt B" are the 3 bolts in the middle. You are supposed to put "seal packing" on the timing cover joint also. I assume that is an RTV or gasket maker.

Torque: For bolt A
10 N*m (102 kgf*cm, 7 ft.*lbf)
For bolt B
9.0 N*m (92 kgf*cm, 80 in.*lbf)
For nut
9.0 N*m (92 kgf*cm, 80 in.*lbf)

 

[FyCkD FuNnY]

Thank a lot... Really helped me...

 

[Badbert]

Great pics. Thanks.

 

[AFisher]

Informative!

Hi, thanks a ton for the photos explaining this. Think I'll be attempting this in the not distant future.

 

[Swimupstream]

FIPG vs RTV? I have RTV already. And one earlier poster asked about high temp red which I also have on hand from water pump.

Thanks for the clarification on a in/lb torque wrench for that lower spec.

 

[Drcoffee]

FIPG vs RTV? I have RTV already. And one earlier poster asked about high temp red which I also have on hand from water pump.

Thanks for the clarification on a in/lb torque wrench for that lower spec.

I used permatex black meant for oil. Buy a small tube, you only need 2 tabs on each side. Clean the metal surface of the head with acetone so you get a good bond.