4.56 gears

[BigredTEX]

What is your MPG driving around town? And what do you think you might get at 70 mph?

I get 14 to 15 mpg around town depending on how much freeway driving vs. stop and go. More freeway mixed in gets me closer to 15. At a real 70 mph i'm seeing 16 mpg, at 75 indicated it starts to drop to 15 and goes down from there as the speed goes up.

 

[fourwd1]

With the 4:56 gears and 33"-34" tires the gearing gets closer to as it was stock. So the RPM's are in line with that. At 75 mph on the flat I am typically around 3000-3500 RPM. Before the regear at 75 mph the gearing would wander up and down like crazy. In the mountains or fully loaded it was awful. (Let alone both) Now I drive at 75-85 mph all the time and it's greatly improved. Although mpg does suffer as was mentioned above. According to the Scangauge at 85 I get about 9-11 mpg.

This is probably the best answer here.
You want to regear with a ratio that matches your taller tires and will bring the overall ratio back to stock.
That way you engine is operating back in tbe power band it was designed for.
You get back the power and mpg you lost going to taller tires.

 

[wfo9]

Stock gearing stock tires at 75mph 5th gear 2141 rpm
Stock gearing 285/70/17 at 75mph 5th gear 2069 rpm
456 gearing 285/70/17 75mph 5th gear 2529 rpm

456 gearing 35" tire 75mph 5th gear 2364

You get the idea.. .It's pretty much the best modification you can make when not running stock tires.

 

[STX4Runner]

Stock gearing stock tires at 75mph 5th gear 2141 rpm
Stock gearing 285/70/17 at 75mph 5th gear 2069 rpm
456 gearing 285/70/17 75mph 5th gear 2529 rpm

456 gearing 35" tire 75mph 5th gear 2364

You get the idea.. .It's pretty much the best modification you can make when not running stock tires.

But only if you're running bigger than 285s, right? Stock gears and 285s in your list above are not pulling much fewer RPMs than stock stock. It wouldn't appear that small of a difference would matter much.

 

[FactoryRide]

I would love to know as well, I think 4.56 would be perfect for me (I have more drag then you) and was not a fan of the stock gearing in stock form so even with 35's, doubt ill ever go that far, I think I would be fine and really ideal for 285/75s which are likely going on this summer as my 285/70s are in need of replacement (40k+ miles on KM2s - happy camper).

Anyways, I don't recall ever seeing anyone do there own gears on here, I found either a Tacoma or FJ guy who did a nice write up and its saved somewhere on my home computer. I was planning to DIY BUT at the time I added up all the costs of the tools that I didn't have and didn't think the savings was worth the lack of warranty/expertise of someone like ECGS doing the 3rds for me and then I would install. - I don't still have those numbers but when I did it that's what I was thinking. Still think gears will be my next big mod but with the 1st kiddo on the way - priorities are changing (couldn't be more excited)

If you do end up diy, document for us - the installation instructions I have seen are fairly straight forward and personally think this job is over hyped to how hard it is to get right which is of course my main reason for wanting to diy - are they wrong or are they right!

I followed the very same FJ write up on setting my gears up. I bought chunks from ECGS and did the swap at a buddies shop. It wasn't terribly difficult to do the swap as long as you took your time.

I choose to go this route because it worked out a little cheaper for me in the end. I believe I was right around $1800 after I tossed my buddy some money for taking up his lift for a day.

 

[wfo9]

But only if you're running bigger than 285s, right? Stock gears and 285s in your list above are not pulling much fewer RPMs than stock stock. It wouldn't appear that small of a difference would matter much.

It depends with the 285s... IF you also carry a bunch of extra weight it will eliminate all the gear hunting and just improve overall feel of the drive-train putting better torque curve to the ground.... also if you pull a trailer of any sort... totally worth it. Finally, it helps quite a bit offroad (although more reduction in the tcase would be so much better).

But if you are pretty stock besides 285 tires and maybe a lift, the stock gearing is adequate.

Sort of a different subject, but what this platform really needs is a way to get more reduction gear into the tcase... That would be so nice.

 

[adio3x]

Dang, I guess I've just grown accustom to how sluggish my 4runner runs lol.

So what's the debate on 4:56's & 4.88's? Toyota Gods I need your advise!

Would it be overgeared to run 4.88s on 35s/F&R steel bumpers/full steel skids/arb drawers/full rack/Hardshell RTT/other shit. A trailer might be in the works as well.

Might also be trying to fit some 37s in the future, but that's a different story haha.

 

[FactoryRide]

Dang, I guess I've just grown accustom to how sluggish my 4runner runs lol.

So what's the debate on 4:56's & 4.88's? Toyota Gods I need your advise!

Would it be overgeared to run 4.88s on 35s/F&R steel bumpers/full steel skids/arb drawers/full rack/Hardshell RTT/other shit. A trailer might be in the works as well.

Might also be trying to fit some 37s in the future, but that's a different story haha.

I'll advocate for 4.88s!! I don't think I would have been happy with anything less. My truck is a slug with all my extra weight and 315s, and I still don't have a rear bumper. I just need a crawl box and rear tube bumper now!

 

[3s1kill]

How much did you guy spend installing this new gear?

 

[wfo9]

Dang, I guess I've just grown accustom to how sluggish my 4runner runs lol.

So what's the debate on 4:56's & 4.88's? Toyota Gods I need your advise!

Would it be overgeared to run 4.88s on 35s/F&R steel bumpers/full steel skids/arb drawers/full rack/Hardshell RTT/other shit. A trailer might be in the works as well.

Might also be trying to fit some 37s in the future, but that's a different story haha.

4.88 are fine, but best for 35.

4.88 with 35s are just like 4.56 with 285s.

 

[adio3x]

4.88s it is!

 

[comtn4x4]

How much did you guy spend installing this new gear?

It was $2307 for mine here in Denver. I wrote a review that details the exact cost that I linked to here:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/247352-review-east-coast-gear-supply-gear-swap.html

 

[Bonyfattony]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] How do you feel about running 35's with 4.88 and a supercharger? Do you think you are better off with 4.56 in that scenario?

 

[wfo9]

[MENTION=106176]wfo9[/MENTION] How do you feel about running 35's with 4.88 and a supercharger? Do you think you are better off with 4.56 in that scenario?

I would probably stick with 456 with the super charger. 488 would probably work too, but there is plenty of power on tap to scoot up hills without every downshifting below 4th.

 

[Bonyfattony]

I would probably stick with 456 with the super charger. 488 would probably work too, but there is plenty of power on tap to scoot up hills without every downshifting below 4th.

Good to know! Planning for the future

 

[Sleeter]

Just finished breaking in 4.56s, this is hands down the best modification to date!

It’s so much more drivable it’s crazy! Anyone who is considering gears do it, it’s awesome. ECGS was excellent to work with and I trusted Scott at GTPEACE Automotive in Chantilly Virginia to comple the install.

 

[DesertCanyons]

ECGS part names and install shop in Los Angeles

I'm going to ask nearly the same question here that I did in the linked thread above by comtn4x4 reviewing his 4.56 gear install.

I looked through the East Coast Gear Supply website yesterday and I could not tell what any of the part names meant. Can someone please explain some of the parts ECGS lists?

What does the 3rd Member Housing mean?
What does the 8.2 designation refer to?
Can you reuse the OEM E-locker so you don't need to buy the ECGS locker? I use the locking differential and when I'm done I want to still have one.
Any explanation of the parts would be very helpful. TIA

Does anyone know of a good west coast shop that can install these parts? Could a transmission shop do this gear install? I'm in the Los Angeles area. I did my lift install but taking a differential apart and replacing gears may be beyond my skill set. And I don't have some of the tools required or a good shop bench I can get oil all over. Plus I am working a lot and have a house restoration project I work on during the weekends. This Old House requires a lot of work.

 

[Jetboy]

I'm going to ask nearly the same question here that I did in the linked thread above by comtn4x4 reviewing his 4.56 gear install.

I looked through the East Coast Gear Supply website yesterday and I could not tell what any of the part names meant. Can someone please explain some of the parts ECGS lists?

What does the 3rd Member Housing mean?
What does the 8.2 designation refer to?
Can you reuse the OEM E-locker so you don't need to buy the ECGS locker? I use the locking differential and when I'm done I want to still have one.
Any explanation of the parts would be very helpful. TIA

Does anyone know of a good west coast shop that can install these parts? Could a transmission shop do this gear install? I'm in the Los Angeles area. I did my lift install but taking a differential apart and replacing gears may be beyond my skill set. And I don't have some of the tools required or a good shop bench I can get oil all over. Plus I am working a lot and have a house restoration project I work on during the weekends. This Old House requires a lot of work.

The 3rd member housing is the cast housing that drops out that normally has the differential parts in it- but without any of the stuff installed in it.

The 8.2 is the designation given to the rear axle size in our 4runners. Specifically 8.2 inches is the diameter of the ring gear. They are size specific, so an 8 inch or 8.4 will not work. Only an 8.2 ring and pinion set will fit an 8.2 differential.

Yes you can reuse the OEM locker. The ring and pinion change will normally reuse the locker part of the differential assembly and everything should work as normal when you're done.

Changing gears is not something most shade tree mechanics can or should do at home. It's not technically hard, but it does require a fair amount of specialty high precision tools and a understanding of mesh patterns, what they mean, and how to correct them. Basically, if you have to ask - you should probably find a shop to do the gears. Typically $150-250 is the going rate for a differential pro to do the gear swap, not including any parts of removal or assembly of the differentials.

The main reason to use ECGS is that they will mail you a pair of complete differential that you just swap into your vehicle, then you send your take out set back as a core for them to build for the next guy. It makes for a shorter down time and saves money in a lot of cases.

 

[nb rob]

Great explanation jetboy

Dave, you probably already know this from your searching, but if not, ECGS also has a bushing replacement for the needle bearing in the front differential that it seems most people purchase at the same time as the gear swaps. That particular bearing seems to fail more often than anything else on the driveline... I'm sure you've seen the threads. The ECGS bushing seems to be the accepted permanent replacement.

And ECGS customer service appears to be top-notch, which always helps take the sting out of big purchases for me anyway.

 

[cutty01]

Changing gears is not something most shade tree mechanics can or should do at home. It's not technically hard, but it does require a fair amount of specialty high precision tools and a understanding of mesh patterns, what they mean, and how to correct them. Basically, if you have to ask - you should probably find a shop to do the gears. Typically $150-250 is the going rate for a differential pro to do the gear swap, not including any parts of removal or assembly of the differentials.

The main reason to use ECGS is that they will mail you a pair of complete differential that you just swap into your vehicle, then you send your take out set back as a core for them to build for the next guy. It makes for a shorter down time and saves money in a lot of cases.

Just so I am clear - do you still recommend using a shop to remove the old 3rd member and then install the modified 3rd that ECGS sends you, or is the pre-assembled 3rd easy enough to do w/o specialized tools and average mechanical knowledge?