4.88 Gears

Hi Brian, I have 33s and plan on regearing 4:88s, using TRD alloy wheels; in your opinion, will this be appropriately geared for a weekend warrior and still have decent drivability on the highway? I'm not worried about gas, but rather if the truck will continue to downshift at 65mph. I plan to add bumpers as well. I just don't want to go too steep and not be able to drive in on the road when I'm not trailing. Any education and advice appreciated.

Running 33's myself with 4.88's from ECGS. Runs at right about 2500-2700 RPM's between 65-70mph. That is looking at the speedo, which has not been adjusted for the larger tire size, which means it's running about ~74ish when the speedo reads 70mph.
 
Piling on, is there any different recommendations between auto and manual trans? IE should manual trans trucks have slightly lower gears VS an equivalent setup auto trans?
 
Piling on, is there any different recommendations between auto and manual trans? IE should manual trans trucks have slightly lower gears VS an equivalent setup auto trans?

Manual transmissions have lower gear ratios compared to automatics so taller differantial gearing is recommended for manuals. Example: Automatic w/33's typically 4.88. Where as a manual w/33's will have taller gear ratio in the 4.10-4.56 range.
 
I personally would go with nitro gears as someone that actually remanufactures differentials for a living if you had 33s I wouldnt hesitate going 5.29s. Gearing depends on tire size yes but it also depends on the ratio of the transmission gearing as well. Toyotas do well with higher ratios. That's why they can make very little power and remain quite torque heavy on the throttle. I was just out at the dunes all week with my 3rd gen and everyone was asking how I was winning vs chevys fords and 5.7 rams with hemis in them on the sand. Its because of the gearing.
 
I personally would go with nitro gears as someone that actually remanufactures differentials for a living if you had 33s I wouldnt hesitate going 5.29s. Gearing depends on tire size yes but it also depends on the ratio of the transmission gearing as well. Toyotas do well with higher ratios. That's why they can make very little power and remain quite torque heavy on the throttle. I was just out at the dunes all week with my 3rd gen and everyone was asking how I was winning vs chevys fords and 5.7 rams with hemis in them on the sand. Its because of the gearing.

The only consideration for 4.88's vs 5.29's is that the 4.88 gears are going to be stronger since the ring gear doesn't have to be cut as thin to fit more teeth.
 
The only consideration for 4.88's vs 5.29's is that the 4.88 gears are going to be stronger since the ring gear doesn't have to be cut as thin to fit more teeth.

The 5.29's have more teeth engaged. Show me one scientific test that proves 4.88's are stronger then 5.29's. It's been an age old wives tale that no one has ever verified to my knowledge. I looked a few years ago and couldn't find anything other than message board arguments with no evidence either way. lol
 
The 5.29's have more teeth engaged. Show me one scientific test that proves 4.88's are stronger then 5.29's. It's been an age old wives tale that no one has ever verified to my knowledge. I looked a few years ago and couldn't find anything other than message board arguments with no evidence either way. lol

Size Matters | RANDYS Worldwide

This article seems to say that 5.29's have less teeth engaged compared to something smaller.



This one says:

"Unfortunately, the trade-off is that numerically higher ratios become thicker and therefore heavier. As the ring gear gets thicker, it becomes stiffer, and therefore deflects less. But as the ratio gets numerically higher, the pinion becomes the weakest link anyway, as it becomes smaller in size. This is why most vehicle manufacturers use a stronger grade of steel for the pinion as com-pared to the ring gear."

Techtips - Ring and Pinion Gear Selection for Optimal Performance
 
The 5.29's have more teeth engaged. Show me one scientific test that proves 4.88's are stronger then 5.29's. It's been an age old wives tale that no one has ever verified to my knowledge. I looked a few years ago and couldn't find anything other than message board arguments with no evidence either way. lol

Lol! Knew that would push some buttons!
boink.gif
 
The only consideration for 4.88's vs 5.29's is that the 4.88 gears are going to be stronger since the ring gear doesn't have to be cut as thin to fit more teeth.

I thought the ring gear was cut thicker with the higher ratio gears?

Or did you mean the individual teeth are thinner?

thick_gears_2.jpg
 
Yes I would think it would be overkill to run 4.56's or 4.88's with 265's. Unless it was never going to go on the freeway again. ;)

You can comfortably run 35's with 4.30's !


I agree for the most part, 4.56 or bigger is over kill for a stock size tire. I also don't think 4.30 is ok with 35's. Well maybe not comfortably, that's not to say it can't and probably is being done but I would step up at least one gear set for anything 35's or bigger.

I have 4.30's in mine and I run a true 33 inch tire and I think 33 this is about as big as I would go with stock 4.30's. It takes to much off the low end for pulling and towing. Highway use is great because it killed all of the RPM's in the motor but that comes with a sacrifice with towing.
 
I thought the ring gear was cut thicker with the higher ratio gears?

Or did you mean the individual teeth are thinner?

thick_gears_2.jpg

It's more the depth of cut and than the thickness of the tooth from my understanding. You start with the same thickness of metal for either sized ring gear. Then, the ring gear teeth are cut deeper, since logically they would have to be in order to fit less teeth on the larger 5.29's. For instance, Nitro gears have 37/7 on their 5.29 and 39/8 on the 4.88 (ring/pinion). Since the angles of the teeth are generally going to be the same this would mean to space them properly you would have to cut deeper on the 5.29's.

[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] is right though, that there's really no definitive proof floating out there that this is a fact.
 
[MENTION=143526]theesotericone[/MENTION] is right though, that there's really no definitive proof floating out there that this is a fact.

Which is odd because it's a really easy test to perform for a company like Yukon or Nitro. Just take the ring gear and lock it down. Weld a cog to the pinion and test with a force meter in line until failure. Repeat it 10 times with each gear set and you have a real base line to inform the customer. ARB did that shit 25 years ago and proved beyond any doubt, with science, that their units where the strongest available.

I've been on my 5,29's for 2 years and 1 year of that was on 35's. I wheel hard and often and when I pulled the diff a few weeks ago the ring and pinion where perfect. ECGS had to redo my bonded seal in my ARB and they also thought the wear was ideal. I'm not saying don't get 4.88's I'm just saying 5.29's are better. lol
 
Which is odd because it's a really easy test to perform for a company like Yukon or Nitro. Just take the ring gear and lock it down. Weld a cog to the pinion and test with a force meter in line until failure. Repeat it 10 times with each gear set and you have a real base line to inform the customer. ARB did that shit 25 years ago and proved beyond any doubt, with science, that their units where the strongest available.

I've been on my 5,29's for 2 years and 1 year of that was on 35's. I wheel hard and often and when I pulled the diff a few weeks ago the ring and pinion where perfect. ECGS had to redo my bonded seal in my ARB and they also thought the wear was ideal. I'm not saying don't get 4.88's I'm just saying 5.29's are better. lol

Sounds like a challenge for AvE. I love watching his ratchet torture tests from his home built torque measurement contraption!
 
I installed 4.88's from ECGS a couple weeks ago. With a rear detroit truetrac in my 2001.
My current set up in a 3" lift and 265/75/16's.
I live in a mountainous area in NE Nevada at over 5,000 feet in elevation. 95% of my driving is 60mph or less with a lot of time spent in the mountains hunting, camping, shed hunting etc.
My thoughts so far:
I think the 4.88's are perfect for me. I love the difference the 4.88's made. Coming from 4.10's my 4runner is like a new machine.
I currently have a Coastal Offroad front bumper and I am adding the rear single swing out and sliders.
In my opinion, for where and how I drive, I cannot imagine running 4.88's with 35" tires as an example, I would absolutely step up to 5.29's.

That being said, if you drive 70mph or more often, I would not recommend 4.88's with 265's. For me, they are awesome!!!

Setting the cruise control at 55mph for my commute has my engine rpm's dead on at 2,000 rpms.

Just my thoughts
 
I installed 4.88's from ECGS a couple weeks ago. With a rear detroit truetrac in my 2001.
My current set up in a 3" lift and 265/75/16's.
I live in a mountainous area in NE Nevada at over 5,000 feet in elevation. 95% of my driving is 60mph or less with a lot of time spent in the mountains hunting, camping, shed hunting etc.
My thoughts so far:
I think the 4.88's are perfect for me. I love the difference the 4.88's made. Coming from 4.10's my 4runner is like a new machine.
I currently have a Coastal Offroad front bumper and I am adding the rear single swing out and sliders.
In my opinion, for where and how I drive, I cannot imagine running 4.88's with 35" tires as an example, I would absolutely step up to 5.29's.

That being said, if you drive 70mph or more often, I would not recommend 4.88's with 265's. For me, they are awesome!!!

Setting the cruise control at 55mph for my commute has my engine rpm's dead on at 2,000 rpms.

Just my thoughts

Jeez!! Spoiler alert! I'm still waiting for the front diff install video!!
 

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