4 Wheel Drive Binding-HELP!

EvilMonkeyMike

New member
Oh where to begin...

Bought a 93 V-6 Auto 4x4 back in July. It was a little rough and needed a few things here and there, but it's my work truck so I figured what the heck.

First things first. I have replaced both front CV shafts, bearings on both sides, brakes and rotors in the front. Also, I took the Transfer Case Pan off and resealed it with red RTV (it was leaking like crazy.) After I did all the front end work, I noticed it began pulling slightly to the right while I was braking. I attributed this to a bad caliper I noticed while I was doing the work. Haven't replaced the calipers yet but the new ones are sitting on my toolbox.

So, the other day we finally got snow (never thought I'd actually WISH for snow) so I took the runner out to run some errands. Our edition was pretty slick, so I dropped it into 4 HIGH.

Upon doing this, I noticed the truck started driving very erratically. It would intermittenly pull to the right, then go straight, then pull right again, all around 15 mph.

I thought this was weird, not normal, and not too safe. I stopped the truck, dropped into neutral, and shifted back to 2 HIGH. The problem went away. I drove out, did my errands, and came home. Before pulling into the driveway, I put the truck back into 4 HIGH on a stretch of dry pavement. When I put it in Drive, it would go about 5 feet and "bind."

The truck seems like the rear end is pushing the front end down, almost like there's a drag or something on the front wheels. It will continue to do this until one tire breaks loose, spins up, and then it will go another 5 feet.

The only things I have been able to come up with so far:

I tested the 4 wheel drive when I bought the truck, but I did it on gravel so it may have been slipping without me knowing it. I didn't go very fast when I tested it so maybe I missed the binding.

The transfer case was rebuilt at some point, I could tell when I took the pan gasket off. Is it possible someone put a wrong ratioed gear into the T-case?

Another possibility. Is it possible somebody swapped a differential to another ratio that isn't matching the other? So now, in 4 wheel drive, the axles are fighting each other?

I really hope someone out there can give me a better option than these two. Other than that, I have no idea what I might've done other than bend or seize something during the course of changing the CV shafts. I would think if I did something like that the truck wouldn't drive right in 2 wheel drive, but I'm not too familiar with this type of 4x4 (it has an ADD lock to disconnect the left driveshaft in the front in 2 wheel drive.) Maybe my lack of familiarity with this system is causing me to overlook something relatively obvious.

Diagnostically, other than looking under the front end for any obvious damage, I don't even know where to start. If possible, I'd like to avoid having to suck it up, admit defeat, and take this thing to my local mechanic. Not looking forward to that prospect:-(

Please help! Thanks in advance!
 
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Diff ratio

Oh where to begin...

Bought a 93 V-6 Auto 4x4 back in July. It was a little rough and needed a few things here and there, but it's my work truck so I figured what the heck.

First things first. I have replaced both front CV shafts, bearings on both sides, brakes and rotors in the front. Also, I took the Transfer Case Pan off and resealed it with red RTV (it was leaking like crazy.) After I did all the front end work, I noticed it began pulling slightly to the right while I was braking. I attributed this to a bad caliper I noticed while I was doing the work. Haven't replaced the calipers yet but the new ones are sitting on my toolbox.

So, the other day we finally got snow (never thought I'd actually WISH for snow) so I took the runner out to run some errands. Our edition was pretty slick, so I dropped it into 4 HIGH.

Upon doing this, I noticed the truck started driving very erratically. It would intermittenly pull to the right, then go straight, then pull right again, all around 15 mph.

I thought this was weird, not normal, and not too safe. I stopped the truck, dropped into neutral, and shifted back to 2 HIGH. The problem went away. I drove out, did my errands, and came home. Before pulling into the driveway, I put the truck back into 4 HIGH on a stretch of dry pavement. When I put it in Drive, it would go about 5 feet and "bind."

The truck seems like the rear end is pushing the front end down, almost like there's a drag or something on the front wheels. It will continue to do this until one tire breaks loose, spins up, and then it will go another 5 feet.

The only things I have been able to come up with so far:

I tested the 4 wheel drive when I bought the truck, but I did it on gravel so it may have been slipping without me knowing it. I didn't go very fast when I tested it so maybe I missed the binding.

The transfer case was rebuilt at some point, I could tell when I took the pan gasket off. Is it possible someone put a wrong ratioed gear into the T-case?

Another possibility. Is it possible somebody swapped a differential to another ratio that isn't matching the other? So now, in 4 wheel drive, the axles are fighting each other?

I really hope someone out there can give me a better option than these two. Other than that, I have no idea what I might've done other than bend or seize something during the course of changing the CV shafts. I would think if I did something like that the truck wouldn't drive right in 2 wheel drive, but I'm not too familiar with this type of 4x4 (it has an ADD lock to disconnect the left driveshaft in the front in 2 wheel drive.) Maybe my lack of familiarity with this system is causing me to overlook something relatively obvious.

Diagnostically, other than looking under the front end for any obvious damage, I don't even know where to start. If possible, I'd like to avoid having to suck it up, admit defeat, and take this thing to my local
mechanic. Not looking forward to that prospect:-(

Please help! Thanks in advance!
Make sure the diff ratios are the same before you break something
 
sounds like mis matched gears bro!
Jack it up
Make a mark on your tire and a mark on your drive shaft where you can see it. Turn the tire and count the revolutions until the drive shaft makes 1 complete rev.

if your gears are matching the front ratio of "wheel to drive shaft revolutions" should be equal to the"wheel to drive shaft revolutions" of the rear.

Wait, I may have that backwards.... well, either way the front should be exactly the same as the back.

If thats as clear as mud, take the covers off and count some teeth.(ugh)
 
sounds like mis matched gears bro!
Jack it up
Make a mark on your tire and a mark on your drive shaft where you can see it. Turn the tire and count the revolutions until the drive shaft makes 1 complete rev.

if your gears are matching the front ratio of "wheel to drive shaft revolutions" should be equal to the"wheel to drive shaft revolutions" of the rear.

Wait, I may have that backwards.... well, either way the front should be exactly the same as the back.

If thats as clear as mud, take the covers off and count some teeth.(ugh)

Makes sense. Thanks, that sounds a lot better than taking the diff covers off!

Crap on a stick. If this thing has mismatched gears I'm going to throw some tools around the garage. Any idea how much it's going to run me to get a diff swapped out?

Or...:gun5:
 
This could be a good thing for you... :) It sounds like someone did half the upgrade for you. For your truck to be doing that in such a short distance then the diff ratios are dramatically different. Maybe the p/o swapped the front or rear diff not knowing about different gears. Either way, keep whichever is higher and re-gear the other to match. Having a higher gear ratio helps out quite a bit if you end up with a bigger size tire.
 
This could be a good thing for you... :) It sounds like someone did half the upgrade for you. For your truck to be doing that in such a short distance then the diff ratios are dramatically different. Maybe the p/o swapped the front or rear diff not knowing about different gears. Either way, keep whichever is higher and re-gear the other to match. Having a higher gear ratio helps out quite a bit if you end up with a bigger size tire.

It does have 31's on it. I'm going to look at this as a positive too, I guess.

When I swap the diff ratios, what components need to be replaced? Can you replace the ring gear only, or is there more to it than that. Most experience I have with driveline, and for that matter auto repair in general, is just that: repair, not modification. I'm good with a wrench but when it comes to altering a vehicle's original design, I'm lacking a bit. Also, how much money am I looking at? To be honest, this truck spends most of its life at the airport employee lot while I'm out on trips. It would be nice to have 4 wheel drive, but it isn't essential.

Oh yeah, and if I dump a bunch more money into this thing, I think my girlfriend will kill me. I'm not joking, she showed me the knife. :whip2:
 
When I swap the diff ratios, what components need to be replaced? Can you replace the ring gear only, or is there more to it than that.

Your rear differential has a drop-out third member, so unless you really want to buy brand new ring and pinion gears you'd find a used third with the gears you want and plug it in. You can get used thirds cheap. I don't think your front diff has a drop-out third (my '86 doesn't), so the cheap way there would be to find an entire diff with the right gears, but dropping and replacing the entire diff is a little more work.

Don't get ahead of yourself, though. Do like cometobanks said and check what gears you've got now. Jack up one side and turn the tire two revolutions, and count how many times the driveshaft spins. That's your gear ratio in that differential. Common ratios are 4.10-1 and 4.30-1, but you could find something else too.
 
evilmonkeymike said:
I put the truck back into 4 HIGH on a stretch of dry pavement. When I put it in Drive, it would go about 5 feet and "bind."

That's normal on dry pavement, part-time 4WD systems like yours aren't meant to be used on hard dry surfaces.

cometobanks said:
If thats as clear as mud, take the covers off and count some teeth.(ugh)

You'd have to pull the rear diff to do that, there is no cover on a third member style diff.
 

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