45 minute timing belt ?

^ I'd like to see the 1hr tbelt job on a 5vz-Fe from key off to key on video, even without a water pump and no crank and cams seals or problems along the way I think this would be quite the achievement done at the tbelt change interval, and then lets throw in a vehicle that sees winter conditions, it's just not realistic.
 
^ I'd like to see the 1hr tbelt job on a 5vz-Fe from key off to key on video, even without a water pump and no crank and cams seals or problems along the way I think this would be quite the achievement done at the tbelt change interval, and then lets throw in a vehicle that sees winter conditions, it's just not realistic.

I haven't done the job enough on a 5vzfe to get it down in time personally, and I probably never will.

My point is that for those who know where every bolt is, and size, best way to reach them, and there aren't any odd seizing issues, it's plausible it could be done. The MR2 was an example of, myself, having the extensive knowledge via experience to do what others claim isn't possible in a short period of time. I haven't had an MR2 in 6 years yet I could probably still pull the motor/trans in about 90 minutes.
 
Did it today

Took me 3 hrs start to finish

I did not try to haul ass through it, and I have done these before. Wasnt trying to race anyone.

Just for future reference


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Did it today

Took me 3 hrs start to finish

I did not try to haul ass through it, and I have done these before. Wasnt trying to race anyone.

Just for future reference


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


How do you remove the belt tensioner?


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The tensioner roller is a 10mm Allen socket

The hydraulic tensioner, is a bit tricky

I do not remove the ac compressor

Just a long 1/4 extension, swivel and a 12mm 6pt socket

Has to go in from the bottom through a crease at juuuust the correct angle.


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The tensioner roller is a 10mm Allen socket

The hydraulic tensioner, is a bit tricky

I do not remove the ac compressor

Just a long 1/4 extension, swivel and a 12mm 6pt socket

Has to go in from the bottom through a crease at juuuust the correct angle.


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That saves major time. I never figured out the angle


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I do not remove the ac compressor

Just a long 1/4 extension, swivel and a 12mm 6pt socket

Has to go in from the bottom through a crease at juuuust the correct angle.
A previous mechanic had put in a non-stock bolt on 1/2 of the tensioner bolts and I couldn't use this trick. That sucked...

(not to mention I don't have any 1/4" extensions! :madgrin:)

-Charlie
 
A previous mechanic had put in a non-stock bolt on 1/2 of the tensioner bolts and I couldn't use this trick. That sucked...

(not to mention I don't have any 1/4" extensions! :madgrin:)

-Charlie


I fought the entire way on the 96 and the 97 Puppy Hauler. Rust is the Devils Child.

My 97 project I did it on the engine stand. Sweet!!!! But not worth pulling and engine for. All though I got it down to 4-5 hours. The 96 took me an entire weekend and a trip to the junkyard to replace broken bolts.


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I don't remember the time it took, probably at least 12 hours on mine on the first time, with air tool and an equipped garage.

But with the Quebec rust on that, it probably took me at last 4 hours to unjam the AC compressor to get to the tensionner.

Glad I did it though, the compressor needed to be changed like the year after and was pretty easy to take off.
 
Could probably be done.

It’s all about time management.

If you’re taking time draining the coolant; you can be unbolting the beauty covers, loosing up the belts, etc etc.

Same if you just pull the lower hose.

Electric tools make it easier; and quicker.

Biggest challenge would be the crank bolt of you don’t take the rad out.


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