4Runner died

[Js'00imited4runner]

Update I checked the pump per these instructions. it ohm reading is .15 so it is below the .2-.3 where this info says it should be. I also could not get the pump to run by powering it from the battery like this info shows to do. I have determined that power is getting to the pump when it is called for. any thoughts on quality of aftermarket pumps or OEM? I am leaning towards OEM I know it is more money but you often get what you pay for. is there anything else needed when replacing the pump? thanks for the help

That stinks. At least you were able to determine it is the fuel pump that has gone bad. Rockauto has a denso fuel pump kit with the fuel pump, pickup screen, and hoses/clamps for $74 I put it up next to the OEM one I removed from my fuel tank were exactly the same pump. I would consider doing your fuel filter too if your gonna bother doing the fuel system on it. The part # for that kit is DENSO 9500100. Their shouldn't be anything else needed when replacing it besides maybe cleaning the tank out real good and cleaning the rust/crud off the outside of the tank and giving it a fresh coat of paint. Might as well while you have it down. Maybe check the shape of your frame rail too and see whats their for rust. I wire brushed primed/painted mine while I had the tank out of it. Good luck with it!

 

[spartacus]

Update I checked the pump per these instructions. it ohm reading is .15 so it is below the .2-.3 where this info says it should be. I also could not get the pump to run by powering it from the battery like this info shows to do. I have determined that power is getting to the pump when it is called for. any thoughts on quality of aftermarket pumps or OEM? I am leaning towards OEM I know it is more money but you often get what you pay for. is there anything else needed when replacing the pump? thanks for the help

I ordered the following from amazon 2 years ago and so far so good

 

[brillo_76]

My one buddy owns a mom and pop automotive garage. he always says it's not ever worth using aftermarket fuel pumps. So if it where me I use an OEM one or a OEM mfg one. That is unless you want to have to change the fuel pump a few times.


I am not sure if your in the rust belts. However, I have pulled and repaired 3 4 runner tanks so far.


Here is a few tips.

1] disconnect the fuel return line and pump your tank dry if at all possible before you pull it down.


2) pull the skid plate [ if it has one and all your lines off the front and rear of the tank.

3] disconnect the fuel tank wiring thsts under a plate on the rear passenger seat.


4] Be very careful bringing this tank down. As it has little vent hoses on the top of the tank you need to disconnect. [ busted a breather line on one tank once as I let the tank down too fast

5) if not in rust belt at least change all the gaskets while you have the tank down. If in the rust belt change all the bolts and screws.

Being I am in the rust belt. When i drop a tank and super clean it and give it 2 coats of Rustoleum paint before fluid filming it and putting it back in.

Take your time and be careful. It should go in and out very easily.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[nail bender]

Update. I got my fuel pump and related parts on friday. i went with OEM parts and took a few days for shipping. put it all back together on saturday. turned the key and after cranking about twice as long as normal it started. after that it starts very quickly. when I had the pump out i looked in the tank with a flashlight,i couldnt find any matches. it was clean no grit or anything in it which was good to see. it was not a bad job to do with the help on here and links provided. thanks to all

 

[brillo_76]

Glad your rolling down the road. Thank you for letting us know your fixed.

Sent from my SM-J337V using Tapatalk

 

[negusm]

when I had the pump out i looked in the tank with a flashlight,i couldnt find any matches.

You can do that with a flashlight? Good to know! :banana:

 

[BoomerBob]

Anytime dude! I did everything exactly as you did. Replaced fuel filter, Cleaned all the way up to the throttle body including the throttle body, MAF sensor, disconnected battery for 3 hrs. and cleared codes (which their weren't any) replaced EFI relays And It didn't change a damn thing. Here is the link of what I was experiencing and what the culprit was. Dropping the tank is not that difficult. The hardest part is dealing with rusted fasteners long as you hit em a couple times with some penetrating oil a few days before, and getting the fuel out which the way I accomplished that was to take my air compressor and set it to 20lbs of psi, shove a hose down the filler neck put the compressor nozzle in it and push the fuel out through the fuel filter/fuel line and drain it into a gas can. Also have another thread on how to check fuel pressure easier. Here they are. Good luck!


Fixed thread:
Trying to figure this out *Solved*
Fuel pressure test thread:
Easier way to check fuel pressure

Have you been able to find the Union with adapter to check the fuel pressure? I see you have a workaround but I was hoping this adapter is available somewhere to make it a bit easier. Also; anyone know what SST stands for?

SST 09268-45014

 

[Piney]

Special service tool, or some such.

 

[rightyouareken]

That SST looks like a pretty standard banjo bolt. Bet you could find something that works at a local auto parts store.

 

[negusm]

https://www.amazon.com/YUAN-Pressur...t=&hvlocphy=9009968&hvtargid=pla-838189977781

Can't you just use this? Just remove that bolt entirely and replace it with one of those fittings that goes to the gauge?

 

[Js'00imited4runner]

Have you been able to find the Union with adapter to check the fuel pressure? I see you have a workaround but I was hoping this adapter is available somewhere to make it a bit easier. Also; anyone know what SST stands for?

SST 09268-45014

No I haven't. I did a lot of research and you have to make a custom fitting banjo bolt or buy another fuel rail and tap a schrader valve into it. But at the moment I couldn't beat $3 bucks from the junkyard for the fittings/hose to make my own. I just rented the fuel pressure gauge from autozone and the readings were as accurate as can be. It's not really a work around it's just a easier way then custom making a banjo bolt. Apparently only the dealers have the fittings to check fuel pressure. Plus their is absolutely no room to do anything off the front of the fuel rails if you drop a nut or bolt good luck finding it. I wouldn't recommend it if it didn't work.

 

[BoomerBob]

No I haven't. I did a lot of research and you have to make a custom fitting banjo bolt or buy another fuel rail and tap a schrader valve into it. But at the moment I couldn't beat $3 bucks from the junkyard for the fittings/hose to make my own. I just rented the fuel pressure gauge from autozone and the readings were as accurate as can be. It's not really a work around it's just a easier way then custom making a banjo bolt. Apparently only the dealers have the fittings to check fuel pressure. Plus their is absolutely no room to do anything off the front of the fuel rails if you drop a nut or bolt good luck finding it. I wouldn't recommend it if it didn't work.

Thanks. I'll message you about your offer to make more.

 

[dhracer3]

Try checking connectors first. I had this very same issue happen and it ended up being just a bit of corrosion on the ignition control module connector.
Older vehicles will eventually get small amounts of corrosion in the connectors. Get some dielectric grease and reseat all your connectors.
The ignition control module is located right near the cruise control module I believe

 

[levee-11]

When were spark plugs replaced? Probably not the issue, but worth checking.

 

[BoomerBob]

Sorry! Something went wrong!

Can't you just use this? Just remove that bolt entirely and replace it with one of those fittings that goes to the gauge?

That is an excellent question. Anyone know? If the threads are the right size it sure seems like it would.
[MENTION=177349]Js'00imited4runner[/MENTION]