TheArkMaster
New member
where have you been!?
Not on here haha. I've been super busy with school, work, and fixing/wheeling the crawler haha.
where have you been!?
Alright [MENTION=92884]snivilous[/MENTION]
So my current idea for the rear is a triangulated 4-link. Do the f-150 gas tank swap. And then notch the rear frame inwards 6 inches to offset the size of these coilover mounts: Coilover / Shock tower
Then using this ballistic bracket on the axle side: Coilover Mount - Self Jigging Assembly
And boom, lots of down travel and articulation with still a lot of space inside the cab. Although a bar connecting the 2 towers as well as cross braces and plating of the frame will also be required. Should look pretty clean.
Are you gonna relocate the muffler or change that up, or do you think you won't have clearance issues over there? Are you planning on linking it yourself? This will be boss! We're gonna have to meet up at some point and compare stuff, it'll be interesting to see how each setup works. I get home next Thursday and plan to start measuring everything for my rear suspension then, but I'm aiming to start fabbing around July.
By the way those coilover axle mounts are pretty sexy, I might have to pick those up too![]()
The 4Runner is looking great Connor! I'm looking forward to some long term feedback from the ADS coilovers, once you really get to run them through the paces.
So my current idea for the rear is a triangulated 4-link. Do the f-150 gas tank swap. And then notch the rear frame inwards 6 inches to offset the size of these coilover mounts: Coilover / Shock tower
Then using this ballistic bracket on the axle side: Coilover Mount - Self Jigging Assembly
I've been looking at the same thing. Even driving on the street I get mad at the rear end because it sucks compared to the front. I wasnt going to notch anything though. Just french the towers into the frame and go into the body. Something like this. Frenched Shock Tower Pair.
That would be way easier, but I'd be worried about a 35" tire clearing the coilover during articulation.
True. I wouldn't mind widening the stance though, or dropping the bump a bit so it wont rub. I look at [MENTION=90485]URBAN ASSAULT[/MENTION] rear
I'm running the factory rear housing. Effectively, I'm running 2.5" backspace in the rear. 3.5"bs on the wheels and 1" spacers. That is what it took to match the front. 3.5"bs in the front, no spacers. The front housing is wider to try and leave enough space to mount all of the link/panhard mounts etc. It's still a birds nest.
The key to getting the 37's to fit was moving the rear axle back 4". That got it out of the back door. Also, re-centered the wheel in the wheel well, since it ended up being taller than I planned.
Hope that helps. I once said, "i'll never go over 35's" also. I also said, never getting married, never having kids, etc etc. Fail, fail, and fail.
So, I look forward to your future 37's :lol:
You think you would clear with say 3.5" bs? I'm not sure there is any way I can match the front once I toss a camburg LT kit on it so its more just keeping it out of the rear coilover when I flex it out. And for now I'm sticking to saying "only 35's" because I saw how much Jeremiah had to tub for 36's and I do not have his skill with the bodywork.
I was thinking maybe an inch or two pushed back just for 35s. It would be nice to not have to redo the panhard system but I think its inevitable. Hell might as well stick an F150 tank and ditch the panhard completely like [MENTION=75445]4Running Daily[/MENTION] was talking about earlier.
Panhard is useless. Ditching it completely. Triangulated 4 link, f150 tank. Move the rear axle like 3 or 4 inches back. I'm probably going to use a wider rear axle, maybe with disc brakes. So that I can match a Solo Motorsports front kit. You should check out their kit with the fully fabricated front spindal. .
Untitled by 4Running Daily, on FlickrIs "borla". Really necessary