4th Gen 4Runner 2003-2009 Power Steering Rack Replacement How-to / DIY

[lonkelm]

Help, how to get bolt out?

I'm in the middle of pulling my rack. I can't get the bolt on the driver's side of the rack (the one that holds the rack in place). It bumps up against the A/C compressor and I can't pull far enough to get it out to move the rack.

Did you remove the A/C? Did you cut the bolt?

 

[AuSeeker]

I'm in the middle of pulling my rack. I can't get the bolt on the driver's side of the rack (the one that holds the rack in place). It bumps up against the A/C compressor and I can't pull far enough to get it out to move the rack.

Did you remove the A/C? Did you cut the bolt?

Read post # 9 at the link below, he explains how he got the bolt that I think you're referring too out, hopefully it's the same bolt and the info you need to help get it out.

4th gen steering rack bushings

 

[lonkelm]

Oh man, that's a kick in the balls to have to pull the alternator and A/C after digging that deep! Whew

I managed to get it apart after pulling the alternator and A/C compressor (just lifted it a bit and supported it with wire).
I gave up for the night, beer time now.

Getting that steering shaft off the rack was crazy and you cannot pull the rack out with the upper arm still attached. I had an air hammer and was able to work it off.
Tomorrow will be reassembly.

 

[mpickard]

Thank you for this posting. :thanks:

Between this forum posting, EricTheCarGuy's youtube video Toyota 4 Runner Power Steering Rack Replacement (Full Version) - EricTheCarGuy - YouTube, this forum post on removing the AC Compressor A/C Compressor Replacement., (unbolting the compressor allows one to get the left side steering rack bolt in/out with the V6 engine) and then finally this forum post on changing / removing the serpentine belt DIY: Changing serpentine belts on the V6 (1GR-FE) 4Runners (as I wasn't finding the belt tension pulley and no belt routing guide under the hood... note, one doesn't need to remove the engine cover to get the belt on/off.)

I should mention this posting also helped Steering Rack Replacement Step-By-Step DIY Guide For 5th Gen 4Runner as it gave insights into pulling the AC compressor loose to get the left rack bolt out - and even though the write-up is for a 5th gen, it is pretty accurate for the 4th gen as well exception being steering shaft setup and some of the hose routing paths.

I succeeded in getting my power steering rack successfully replaced this weekend in my '07 4Runner Sport with V6 - 235k miles on it.

Words of caution - (I don't think it was in any of the comments on this thread, but did see it mentioned in a steering rack rebuild thread) - when the seals start going out of the rack, the inner tie rod boots can fill up with fluid - have your drain pan handy when you start pulling those boots back if removing the inner tie rod ends on the old rack.

I will add, one can get the new rack in without removal of the inner tie-rod ends. An extra set of hands to help navigate getting the new rack slid in might be helpful, but I did the whole project solo (in my driveway with just the car stands).

I ended up going with a "Cardone" rebuilt rack (lifetime warranty) from Advance Auto Parts (in stock). I had hoped to get a "NAPA Premium Steering" rebuilt (with lifetime warranty) from NAPA Auto, but the location closest to me closed, and the next closest location couldn't figure out how to get their registers operational after a power interruption or do any kind of manual process in the interim (even though I had already paid for the rack online and had now made 2 different trips to pick it up) to let me take their rack to get the project done and then do the paperwork later when I brought the core back.

I had seen recommendations for getting remanufactured racks from RackDoctor Rack and Pinion - rack and pinion steering - rack and pinion remanufacturing - rack and pinion manufacturers - Rack Doctor and CVJ Axles https://www.cvjreman.com/ and would have probably gone with either of them (they actually had better pricing) if I had something else to drive while waiting for the rack as I didn't think I could go another week before getting this addressed. I also had a long weekend this weekend for the project with it being Labor Day Weekend. For comparison - a New Toyota steering rack was quoted at $1200 plus $450 labor and $77 alignment (and taxes on top).

Quick Summary - I removed the front and rear underbody shields, front stabilizer bar, lower steering shaft, the 2 bolts holding front differential mount, bolt holding transmission lines (above right steering rack bolt), and bolt holding one of the AC compressor lines across the bottom of the engine. There were 3 bolts holding power steering lines that I removed (one on the rack, one right in front of the rack, and third one was on return line going back towards reservoir). Additionally, I pulled the 4 bolts holding the AC compressor (and removed serpentine belt from AC compressor) to be able to get clearance for removal / reinstallation of the left steering rack bolt (and 2 bolts holding a wire harness in front of the top rear AC compressor bolt). I also removed the low-pressure hose fitting from the steering rack before removal (and reinstalled on new rack after attaching pressurized hose) - a deep well 17mm socket works perfect for that.

Tools - I have a decent set of sockets / wrenches and a breaker bar. Also some impact sockets and impact wrench (and impact knuckles / socket drive adapters) already. I did pick up an impact hammer & bits, extensions for impact wrench, and long bent nose needle-nose pliers with 90 degree tip before starting this and was very glad I did as I ended up needing them. Only item I didn't have that may have made process a little smoother was a line wrench / flare-nut wrench - I stacked two 17mm wrenches, but that high-pressure fitting was still a bear to get worked loose. Wondering if a crowfoot type offset wrench would have made it easier... I did also douse everything with PB Blaster the day before (and some of it several times Saturday morning while trying to get things loose / cleaned up).

I still need to do a little alignment work, but since I have a (free) LOF scheduled Wednesday morning, I'll have the dealership do a courtesy alignment check before I tackle that (or may just let them do it...)

 

[SoreHead]

I decided this was a bit beyond my ability. Turns out that was the correct decision. The old rack was stuck in there good.
Has anyone had the issue that the steering is dangerously light after having the rack replaced?? I don't feel safe at highway speeds with it.
I replaced the following:
Rack
Pressure hose
Return hose
Inner tie rods

They aligned it to 2002 specs by mistake but not sure that's enough to cause this severe a result?

Should I replace the upper and lower steering shafts?

 

[montijo505]

I decided this was a bit beyond my ability. Turns out that was the correct decision. The old rack was stuck in there good.
Has anyone had the issue that the steering is dangerously light after having the rack replaced?? I don't feel safe at highway speeds with it.
I replaced the following:
Rack
Pressure hose
Return hose
Inner tie rods

They aligned it to 2002 specs by mistake but not sure that's enough to cause this severe a result?

Should I replace the upper and lower steering shafts?

Get another alignment, I’m sure that’s your issue. They used specs for a smaller lighter vehicle.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[kyle_pc_75]

Thanks for the great write up. Got mine out today. My u-joint was toast as well as my rack, so off to the dealer tomorrow to pick up a new shaft then reassemble. Honestly, not as bad a job as I expected.

 

[joshik]

It's about that time for me to replace my steering rack. I'm at 300,400 miles on the original rack.

I hit up CVJ and they want $575 + shipping ($50-$70) and I have to pay to ship my rack to them probably another $50 a least. So close to $700 at the end of the day. Plus the hassle of being charged a $250 core charge and having to return my old rack back. Other places I found online are similar too.

I found that I can get a NEW OEM rack from Lakeland Toyota for $726 which includes shipping and tax. AND maybe I can sell my rack back to someone who remans them?

Just thinking, why would anyone go reman'd if new OEM was only a little bit more?

Also, do you think it can be done without removing the tires? Garage is full of crap and my driveway is sloped. :/ It seems that the rack comes out forward and not out the side. The only challenge may be getting to the castle nut for the OTR. Thoughts?

edit: oh, it would probably be hard to get to the coupler that attaches the column to the rack :/

 

[Jasonredwood]

Going oem, found a deal through a friend that has a connect to Toyota parts. They did ask for the old one back. Wondering if anyone has torque specs for the instal. I’m not really wanting to buy the 4 volume fsm for $300 on ebay

 

[bninja]

I know this is an older write up but it was very helpful in acclimating me with where things were before tackling this job today, so thank you OP.

I have an 07 with the 4.7 and I will say it's pretty easy to remove the entire rack without removing either inner tie rod. I think the trick to make it possible is to remove the low pressure line fitting from the rack before removal.

With that off and simply removing the oil filter you can easily spin the rack towards you from the front until the steering shaft spline is facing towards the front of the truck, feed it towards the passenger side until the driver side inner tie rod clears the hole and then pull the whole thing out the front.

Thanks again for all the info and pictures, saved me a lot of time.

 

[SLWitek]

I recently had this done and on way home, the traction control light came on and truck went into limp mode. Any reason for this to happen after having steering rack replaced?
I removed negative from battery to reset the light, and the problem went away for now. This is my daughters truck and I don't want this reoccurring for her later....limp mode is pretty scary!