DIY: Changing serpentine belts on the V6 (1GR-FE) 4Runners

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W211_to_T4R

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #1

Here is a simple DIY on changing serpentine belts on the V6 (1GR-FE) 4Runners. I couldn’t find any DIY threads with pictures, so I decided to make one. It took me less than 10 minutes from start to finish, so anybody could do this with the basic tools. Hope this helps.

Tools needed:

• Ratchet
• 10mm socket
• 14mm socket or you could use a 14mm offset wrench
• Cheater bar

First, remove the two 10mm acorn nuts holding down the engine cover.

Lift the front of the engine cover, then pull towards you.

This is the rear of the engine cover where the hinges are. Just unhook it.

This is your belt tensioner

Take your 14mm socket or offset wrench and place it on the belt tensioner as pictured/video. Lift wrench or ratchet upwards (counter-clockwise) to release the tension then slide the old belt off. Remove old belt from all the pulleys, then route it around the cooling fan.

VIDEO
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/7whVQmQ0qt0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

Old belt:

New belt:

Now install your new belt by routing it around the cooling fan first then around the idlers & pulleys. It will be a tight fit since the belt hasn’t been stretched out, so just be patient. I routed the belt in this particular order:

a) Over water pump pulley
b) Under Idler #2 (driver’s side)
c) Around alternator pulley
d) Around A/C compressor pulley
e) Over Idler #1
f) Around Crankshaft pulley
g) Around belt tensioner
h) Under water pump pulley
i) Over Idler #2 (Passenger side)
j) Finally around power steering pump as you release the belt tensioner.
I prefer to use the 14mm socket + ratchet + cheater bar so you have more leverage.

Picture of 14mm socket + ratchet + cheater bar positioned on belt tensioner.

Make sure belt fits perfectly on all the grooves on the pulleys. Re-install engine cover then start engine.
<iframe title="YouTube video player" width="640" height="390" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/a5EMkb_AmQY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

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TBoliv

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #2

Very nice. Been meaning to do this, next oil change, I think.

 

techmen17

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #3

:reddance: BOOKMARKED! thanks

 

Jerrydog

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #4

Nice work, thanks for the info. Its nice to see your waterpump is pink also!

So how do you actually apply tension to the belt? Please tell me you dont just pull it tight that it has a mechanical adjustment....

 

Kmvreter

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #5

Nice writeup.

What year is your truck and how many miles on it? Did you compare the lengths of the old vs. new belt to see how much it stretched? Or can you measure the current position of the center of the tensioner (with the new belt on) to a fixed reference point so we can compare?


Jerrydog,
The tensioner is spring loaded for constant tension.

 

D

DocMT

Banned

• Feb 11, 2011

• #6

Jerrydog said:

Nice work, thanks for the info. Its nice to see your waterpump is pink also!

So how do you actually apply tension to the belt? Please tell me you dont just pull it tight that it has a mechanical adjustment....

Click to expand...

The pink thing is actually part of the fan clutch.

 

texastony

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #7

Thanks next on my list !

 

W

W211_to_T4R

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #8

Kmvreter said:

Nice writeup.

What year is your truck and how many miles on it? Did you compare the lengths of the old vs. new belt to see how much it stretched? Or can you measure the current position of the center of the tensioner (with the new belt on) to a fixed reference point so we can compare?


Jerrydog,
The tensioner is spring loaded for constant tension.

Click to expand...

My truck is a 2005 SE and I have about 64,000 miles on it. The belt started squeaking during start up a couple months ago and kept getting worse. Sorry, but I forgot to compare the old vs new belt. I won't be able to measure the tensioner for now since I'm bringing in my truck for warranty repair today. I'll measure it when I get it back.

 

W

W211_to_T4R

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #9

Jerrydog said:

Nice work, thanks for the info. Its nice to see your waterpump is pink also!

So how do you actually apply tension to the belt? Please tell me you dont just pull it tight that it has a mechanical adjustment....

Click to expand...

The belt tensioner is spring-loaded so just release the tension, slip on the new belt, and the tensioner will return back to its normal position. I'll probably replace the tensioner once I hit 90K-100K.

 

texastony

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #10

is the belt squeaking or the idle bearing ?

 

W

W211_to_T4R

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #11

texastony said:

is the belt squeaking or the idle bearing ?

Click to expand...

The belt was squeaking. Now it sounds just like new.

 

K

krravi

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #12

Pardon my ignorance. Dont all the wheels have to be in a certain position when putting the belt back on? Am i confused by the timing belt ? If so how is this different compared to the timing belt?

 

macoyle

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #13

Wheels have to be in a certain position? I think you are thinking of a timing belt/chain where the sprockets off of the camshaft or camshafts have to be in a certain position with the crankshaft to insure all the valves are moving at the same time. (this is behind your timing belt cover and can not be seen without removing it)

The pulley belt which he replaced is just moving basically a "knob" to ensure that things are lubricated, create pressure, and create mechanical power to things such as your A/C, power steering pump, water pump, and so on-

Hopefully that helps ya

 

Jerrydog

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #14

DocMT said:

The pink thing is actually part of the fan clutch.

Click to expand...

Same diff....Im really surprised they dont have electric fans, I may convert and get that load off the waterpump!

 

K

kosan

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #15

only 10 minutes?!

 

macoyle

New member

• Feb 11, 2011

• #16

its pretty simple maybe a 15 minute job lol, once you route the belt make sure its seated properly and you release the tensioner the job is done

 

D

DocMT

Banned

• Feb 11, 2011

• #17

kosan said:

only 10 minutes?!

Click to expand...

Even 10 minutes is a bit much. It takes me about 2 minutes to change mine, but I don't take off the engine cover. I just use a 14mm wrench to pull the tensioner and slip the belt off. Then I slip the new belt on and pull the tension out enough to slip the new belt under it. That's it, quick and simple.

 

badboyrr

New member

• Jul 21, 2011

• #18

Belt

Nice write up, Thanks! Also everyones tips.:guitar2:

 

R

ran

Senior Member

• Jul 23, 2011

• #19

krravi, I know what you are talking about. Tried to replace a belt on a g-friend's Ford. I didn't line up one of the pulleys right, would not start.

_____________
'07 SE V6 4x4

 

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8086bruce

New member

• Jul 23, 2011

• #20

Great job and thanks for the video and pics!