4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

Called around to all the offload places and the variance in price blew my mind. ETA told me $1400 including alignment, (keep in mind im supplying all my own parts) a local family friend told me $800 including alignment and state inspection.
Pungo Offroad which is kinda far said $600 for all the front work( plus alignment) and then a Big Als thats by my work told me $535 out the door for the whole front including state inspection.

So im going with the last one Saturday morning and then doing the back springs and shocks myself sunday morning and then getting it aligned either monday or tuesday

Yeah, I took my 4runner to one shop to see about some suspension work and lift kit install. The person who did my inspection wasn't aware of the lift part, so the quote was for replacing all control arms and putting in new stock shocks and struts. Parts and labor was $6700. They quoted me $600 for Moog UCAs. And another $600 for Moog lowers. I really just laughed. Also, the labor quote was 3 hours for replacing both front uppers, 3.5 hours for replacing both front lowers, and another 3 hours to install the front shocks and struts. I have a very hard time imagining how it takes 3 hours to install front struts when you already have everything taken apart. Luckily I have a third party warranty that will cover the control arms and labor for it, so this shop is ripping them off instead of me. I'll probably just do the lift kit install myself now that all the suspension is going to be fixed.
 
Yeah, I took my 4runner to one shop to see about some suspension work and lift kit install. The person who did my inspection wasn't aware of the lift part, so the quote was for replacing all control arms and putting in new stock shocks and struts. Parts and labor was $6700. They quoted me $600 for Moog UCAs. And another $600 for Moog lowers. I really just laughed. Also, the labor quote was 3 hours for replacing both front uppers, 3.5 hours for replacing both front lowers, and another 3 hours to install the front shocks and struts. I have a very hard time imagining how it takes 3 hours to install front struts when you already have everything taken apart. Luckily I have a third party warranty that will cover the control arms and labor for it, so this shop is ripping them off instead of me. I'll probably just do the lift kit install myself now that all the suspension is going to be fixed.

Christ!! They must be owned by the steelership haha. The manager at the Big Als im going to didn't even charge me labor for the wheel bearing or the strut install. Just changing the CV axles, assembling the Coilovers and then alignment and inspection. He's said he couldn't in good conscience charge more for something that was already being done by other labor. Reason why ive been going to the for years
 
I'm getting my UCAs + front spacers + alignment by Adventure-Motors, he quoted me $425. Seems about reasonable to me. I'd expect you to pay roughly the same for an all around spacer lift (replace the UCA labor with rear spacer labor). Might even be cheaper.

As someone who has had both setups, I wholeheartedly recommend the 5100s. Get rid of XREAS, especially if it's blown. The 5100s are comfortable for a stock-ish ride, but you still feel the road more than stock. You will ****ing feel everything with the OME lift. It is HARSH on-road, because the shocks are valved stiffer plus the setup is designed for a continuous weight load. If you're not constantly carrying 200lbs in the back or towing, I do not recommend this setup.

That said, OME is amazing offroad. Just when you spend majority of your time on the road rather than off of it, OME causes some literal headaches.

Thanks for the input! My XREAS is fine right now, my stock ride is very comfortable and there's no bounciness. I'm thinking I may hold off on deciding between a spacer lift and a suspension lift until next year, when I'd actually be using the extra ground clearance (moving out of flat KS).

I'm only at 60k miles so I have plenty of time to decide what I want, I reckon.
 
Cornfed 3/2 Maxed Rear Suspension

I recently purchased a 3/2 cornfed and after talking to my local off road mechanic, he recommended getting some sort of new rear suspension because stock suspension would be maxed out. I've been trying to find posts all over the forum and I am quiet confused.

Do I need to get new rear suspension or will I be fine with just throwing in the lift?

If I do, what are my options? Nothing crazy just a simple fix so I can throw in my lift and not have trouble sleeping at night thinking something might break if I don't.

Thanks for any clarification in advance.
 
I recently purchased a 3/2 cornfed and after talking to my local off road mechanic, he recommended getting some sort of new rear suspension because stock suspension would be maxed out. I've been trying to find posts all over the forum and I am quiet confused.

Do I need to get new rear suspension or will I be fine with just throwing in the lift?

If I do, what are my options? Nothing crazy just a simple fix so I can throw in my lift and not have trouble sleeping at night thinking something might break if I don't.

Thanks for any clarification in advance.

Here's a quote from the first page, which may explain your situation.

As you get closer to 3" lift, you can begin to run into other issues. Three things come to mind.
First, at 3" and higher, you begin running out of caster adjustment on the stock upper control arms (UCA's). Aftermarket UCAs may be required to get the front end alignment back into spec. Here's a great thread discussing various options and benefits of the different UCA's offered.
Second, it's fairly common for there to be contact between the swaybar and front coils. To resolve this, you need to install swaybar relocates. There's no definite way to know you'll need these. My suggestion is that if you're going for 3"+ of lift, you probably should go ahead and invest in the relocates.
A third thing is a diff drop, which is intended to reduce the angle on the CV's. It's the general opinion that these do very little to improve the angle and are not worth installing.
 
I recently purchased a 3/2 cornfed and after talking to my local off road mechanic, he recommended getting some sort of new rear suspension because stock suspension would be maxed out. I've been trying to find posts all over the forum and I am quiet confused.

Do I need to get new rear suspension or will I be fine with just throwing in the lift?

If I do, what are my options? Nothing crazy just a simple fix so I can throw in my lift and not have trouble sleeping at night thinking something might break if I don't.

Not correct at all! I've been selling this kit since late 2005, and you DO NOT NEED NEW REAR SHOCKS with this kit. All good. Other companies market some of their kits where you do, but not for this. This is designed to work with your stock shocks, or bils, with NOTHING ELSE NEEDED.

303322d1530646591-lift-leveling-kit-holiday-season-sale-6d4bfab0-f103-43ce-ba49-dd42111e7bfc.jpg


290978d1522184290-lift-tire-central-pics-post-em-up-bf6a0895-15a8-4d9c-8ca5-1dfa870f47fd.jpg

3/2 above.

4th gen lift & leveling kits at Burtman Industries, on sale!

And see the 8 page post on these kits. I still have guys with over 200k on their trucks with these kits.

t4r 8 page post on 4th gen cornfed lifts
 
I’ve got a 2004 Limited Edition with XREAS AND RAS.
So I’m on Toyotec looking to replace my XREAS and RAS with Bilstein 5100’s. Does anyone know if I need to get the ultimate 3” lift kit with the rear coil conversion or will the 3” lift kit suffice? Thanks in advance!

https://www.toyteclifts.com/ul-fj3k-fj-cruiser-4runner-ultimate-3-lift-package.html

Or

https://www.toyteclifts.com/ttafcs-ha-0309-toytec-bilstein-coilovers-for-03-09-4runner-4.html


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Either way you will need a rear conversion kit, I got mine from MetalTech.
 
Not correct at all! I've been selling this kit since late 2005, and you DO NOT NEED NEW REAR SHOCKS with this kit. All good. Other companies market some of their kits where you do, but not for this. This is designed to work with your stock shocks, or bils, with NOTHING ELSE NEEDED.

303322d1530646591-lift-leveling-kit-holiday-season-sale-6d4bfab0-f103-43ce-ba49-dd42111e7bfc.jpg


290978d1522184290-lift-tire-central-pics-post-em-up-bf6a0895-15a8-4d9c-8ca5-1dfa870f47fd.jpg

3/2 above.

4th gen lift & leveling kits at Burtman Industries, on sale!

And see the 8 page post on these kits. I still have guys with over 200k on their trucks with these kits.

t4r 8 page post on 4th gen cornfed lifts


Thank you for the clarification. I will post photos when I install now!!
 
Thanks for the input! My XREAS is fine right now, my stock ride is very comfortable and there's no bounciness. I'm thinking I may hold off on deciding between a spacer lift and a suspension lift until next year, when I'd actually be using the extra ground clearance (moving out of flat KS).

I'm only at 60k miles so I have plenty of time to decide what I want, I reckon.

Ooh, yeah, **** that, go spacer then. I didn't realize you're that low on mileage, X-REAS kicks ass.
 
Got the runner aligned yesterday after installing new springs, shocks, and cv axles and Im not sure if I need to get the UCAs or not but here is the specs from it. My concern is the left front camber as it isn't even with the right
 

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Got the runner aligned yesterday after installing new springs, shocks, and cv axles and Im not sure if I need to get the UCAs or not but here is the specs from it. My concern is the left front camber as it isn't even with the right



Someone doesn’t know what they are doing. I would find a shop that can align a vehicle that’s been lifted. Caster isn’t terrible, but should definitely be able to get camber in spec. I would take it to another shop, ask them to max out caster and get camber and toe in spec. Take the print out back to the first shop and ask for your money back.


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Someone doesn’t know what they are doing. I would find a shop that can align a vehicle that’s been lifted. Caster isn’t terrible, but should definitely be able to get camber in spec. I would take it to another shop, ask them to max out caster and get camber and toe in spec. Take the print out back to the first shop and ask for your money back.

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yeah im going back tomorrow to have them fix it. the caster will be fixed when I get my new UCAs since I still have stock. but that camber is causing me to pull to the left and I can't stand that. like you said that should be in spec. if one side can be i dont know why the other wouldn't
 
I've got a really dumb question. Can I use high caster UCAs (specifically, a Camburg performance ball joint UCA - not uniball) WITHOUT a lift? Like, do they only have the correct geometry when the car is lifted 3", or if I put those camburg UCAs on my 4Runner with the shot stock suspension, will they still work until I put a lift in?

I'm replacing the upper control arm now and don't want to put in a Moog arm just to replace it in a month when I put my lift on, and would much rather throw on a high caster UCA now.
 
That's not horrible at all. You likely won't notice the difference. But give her a drive around, see if it wanders or anything.

Mine doesn't wander with my lift anymore because I have a shitton of weight up front. But I'm putting in front spacers, and I need new UBJs anyways, so I just said **** it and went with the UCAs.
 
Since I didn't get any comments/suggestions (this thread seems to have died off) I went ahead and pulled the trigger today...

Not actually either of the 2 options I listed above but I'm doing Bilsteins all around with the Bilstein packaged coils on the front and Toytec Superflex HD's on the rear. I will set the front to 3" of lift and if as advertised the Superflex HD coils should give me around 2.5" unloaded in the rear. I will rarely be unloaded completely in the rear, so hopefully it ends up closer to level.

Also went ahead and ordered my new sneakers: Nitto Ridge Grapplers.

In about 3-4 weeks, when it all comes, in I will gladly let you know if I feel like I made the right decisions or not. Short term impressions only, obviously.


I'm just quoting myself here to save some typing.

My lift is done and new sneakers are on. Alignment is complete and although I forgot to get the printout from the shop, I believe it worked out well because it tracks perfectly straight. No squirreliness in the steering, no pull and handles fine. I did not replace UCA's. Nor were there any unpleasant other surprises from the install.

Stats: The front ended up with 3" of total lift. 2.5" from the suspension & 1/2" from the tires. Rear was a bit surprising with 3.25" of lift from the suspension & another .5" from the tires. Hopefully it will settle down some since I wanted to maintain some rake, but not quite this much.

Early impressions: Couldn't be happier with the ride. Exactly what I had hoped for: firm but not at all harsh. Even with the HD springs in the rear, it stays well planted on crappy back roads (all we have around here) and has a very confident feel without the bone-crushing jarring of my 2500 work truck.

The Nitto RG's are freakishly quiet for a hybrid mud/AT tire. Quieter than the General Grabbers on my work truck. Probably even more so than the last set of GY Silent Armors I had on it. The Load Range C tires ride well. I only wish Nitto made these tires in a 275. My one disappointment is that the 265/75R17's just don't look beefy enough with where my lift ended up.

The Toytec HD coils in the rear did accomplish what I needed as for as load & towing. I hooked my 3500 - 4000 lb boat up and I still have .5" of rake. So that worked out perfect. Haven't towed it more than down the ridge & back up yet tho.

At the moment I have 150 lbs of tractor weights in the back of the truck to help settle the rear some and see how it affects the ride but I won't get to test that out till I get done replacing my rear calipers since my RR stuck when I took a little joy ride the other night. That weight did drop the rear roughly 1".

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Stock front springs

What is the uncompressed length and spring rate of the front springs on an 03 v8? I picked up a set of 5100s with 14" 620# springs on them and I'm trying to estimate lift on 2nd notch. Supposedly netted 1.5" on first notch on a gx470. Any help appreciated
 
Question about 3” spacer lift

Hello, I am looking for some advice for lifting my 4th gen 4Runner with a 3 inch spacer lift.. i tried to put it on the other day and got everything unbolted and taken apart. When I went to put my strut back on I couldn’t get the lower control arm to drop enough to get the strut with the 3” spacer on top to go back in. Any recommendations or advice on how to do this? Thank you very much.
 
5th gen to 4th gen??

Haven't seen much of anything about this so figured id ask. I found a guy want to sell me his 2016 4runner SR5 suspension for $200. Will it bolt up to my 08 SR5? If so what kind of difference should i expect? If it won't bolt up is it a simple mod? Pretty much is it worth it haha
 

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