4th Gen Suspension Options/FAQ

[jaybird93000]

Does the full fj suspension from 2011s fully fit an 06? Both shocks/struts and coils. And would a DS spacer mount on the fj strut?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Does the full fj suspension from 2011s fully fit an 06? Both shocks/struts and coils. And would a DS spacer mount on the fj strut?

No, they won't be a direct fit. the lower bushing on the front shocks has to be trimmed down and the upper mounting hole for the rear shocks must be enlarged. Not major changes, but if you decide to swap in the future you'll be limited to fj rear shocks because of the enlarged mounting hole.

The DS spacer should work though.

 

[cmcgrail]

Kyb

I was wondering what to do here. I have a KYB suspension at the moment and i want to lift it. do i change them? Do i need new springs/coilovers? will spacers (suspension) do the job? i find it a little bouncy at the moment and would appreciate a smoother ride... any suggestions?

**************************INTRO**************************

I've noticed a lot of threads asking about the various lift options for the 4th Gen 4runner. I've seen this done on other sites, but never saw anything here. I'm no expert, actually knew nothing when I bought my 4runner and joined about 2 years ago. My knowledge is from personal experience and info gathered on this and other sites. I've put together a list of the most common lift types along with common choices for each time. With this I also tried to include enough information to answer most of the basic questions regarding each lift setup. I'll admit that I don't know as much about coilovers as I've not had them, so that section is quite a bit shorter than the others. If you guys have anything to add or see anything that is incorrect, please let me know so I can get it added/changed. I just got this idea and started typing at about 12 am, so it's very possible that I may have gotten some details wrong or left something important out. I hope some of you will find this information helpful and maybe this will help reduce a lot of the same questions being asked over and over again.

**************************Factory Suspension Info**************************

The first thing to consider when searching for a new lift is whether or not your 4runner has XREAS and/or the rear air suspension (RAS). XREAS comes standard on all Sport Editions, and it is an option on the Limited. RAS is paired with XREAS and was only an option on the Limited. It’s possible to have a Limited with XREAS and not RAS, but not possible to have RAS and not XREAS (unless it has been removed). The easiest way to determine if you have XREAS is to look at the shocks. If you have it, you’ll see a line attached to the shock. If you have RAS, you’ll have a height indicator on the dash and a height adjustment/off switch on the center console. If you have the base suspension, you can easily choose any of the options. If you have XREAS and would like to keep it, you are limited to using a spacer lift. If it needs replaced or if you’d just like to replace it, you can pull the stock system, you’ll just need to use the proper disconnect points for the shocks. The proper disconnect points are 6-12 inches down the line from the shock, not at the shock. It is advised to have all four wheels in the air prior to disconnecting the shocks.

If you have RAS, you are limited to a spacer lift in the front only; there are currently no lift kits available for the rear that will work with the factory air bags. It is possible to adjust the height of the “normal” position; this gives you the option of lifting the rear utilizing the air bags. However, as more air is added, you will sacrifice ride quality. Instructions for adjusting the RAS can be found on the last page of the PDF attached to this post.

More information on XREAS can be found here.
Once you have determined which suspension options are installed on your 4runner and if you’d like to keep/replace them, you can start choosing your lift setup based on your needs/budget. None of these lists are inclusive. This is meant more as a guide than a complete list of available options. I’m listing the most popular options I’ve seen.

**************************Aftermarket Lift Options**************************

Spacer lifts:
Spacer lifts are designed to work with your factory suspension components. This type of lift is great for those looking to keep the stock XREAS. Spacer lifts provide added clearance for off road, but they provide no other benefits. If you spend a lot of time off road, or even occasional off road that’s at a moderate level, this probably isn’t the best option for you. Spacer lifts are not made to handle added weight, such as front/rear bumpers. Spacer lifts have very little effect on ride quality. All spacer lifts are essentially created equal. About the only difference between them is the material they’re made of, all end up with the ame results.

Lift amounts range from ½” to 3”. With spacer lifts, it’s important to determine you want. Some people use these to simply get rid of the factory rake. This is accomplished by raising the front 1”-1.5” (most common, some have used different amounts). Others choose to lift both the front and rear. It is common for the kits to be sold in unequal sizes. The front is typically 1” higher than the rear, which also helps to get rid of the factory rake. It is important to note that you will gain double the spacer thickness in lift in the front ONLY. For example, a 1” thick spacer will provide 2” lift. A 1.5” rear spacer would net 1.5” lift.
Here are common choices for spacer lifts, listed by manufacturer.

Cornfed
• Front: 1” net lift spacer
• Kits: 2” front & 1” rear net lift, 3” front & 2” rear net lift

Daystar-
• Front: 1” thick Budget Boost spacer, 2.5” net spacer
• Rear: 1.5” thick spacer
• Kit: 2.5” front & 1.5” rear

Toytec
• Front: 1/4” thick spacer, ½” thick spacer, 2” net lift spacer, 2.5” net lift spacer, 3” net lift spacer
• Rear: 1.5” thick spacer
• Kit: 3” front & 2” rear net lift

Lift Coils and Shocks:
Lift coils and aftermarket shocks come at a higher price than spacer lifts, but also offer a variety of benefits. These are great for mild to moderate off road use and still have excellent on road characteristics. Unlike spacer lifts, these vary greatly depending on which ones you go with. Lift amounts tend to vary as well, depending on how worn your factory springs are. There’s a little more guess work involved to determine how much lift you will gain. Lift numbers are approximate.

OEM FJ Springs:
• Springs from a 2007+ FJ Cruiser are a direct swap to the 4th Gen 4runner.
• These provide on average ½”-1” lift on the front, ¼”- ½” lift on the rear, depending on if you have a v6 or v8 engine and 2wd or 4wd.
• Most people buy them used from FJ owners who’ve upgraded
• More information can be found on the following pages
- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspension/78803-compiled-fj-springs-lift-info-4th-gen.html
- http://www.toyota-4runner.org/suspension/78933-4th-gen-all-whove-done-fj-swap.html

Bilstein 5100 Shocks
• Unlike most shocks, the Bilstein 5100 front shocks are adjustable for various amounts of lift.
• Lift settings are 0”, .85”, 1.75”, and 2.5”
• These offer great ride quality and are a good choice for a stock replacement.
• It is very common to pair these with FJ, OME, and Toytec Coils for added lift/performance

OME (Old Man EMU, not to be confused with stock, OEM)
• OME offers different coil options for v6/v8 4runners and also for those at stock or with added weight.
• Provide lift by using more wraps of coils and higher spring rate
- Higher spring rate = stiffer ride
• Front coils-should provide 2.5”-3” lift for listed application
- 884-For use on stock weight v6
- 885-For use on stock weigh v8, or v6 with added weight
- 886-For use on v8 with added weight
- Front coils often combined with ¼” thick spacer for a full 3” lift
• Rear coils
- 895e-stock weight, 1” lift
- 895-stock weight, 2” lift, over 40% stiffer than stock
- 896-weight added, 2” lift

Toytec:
• Superflex rear coils
- Great option for stock weight , 2” lift, 10% stiffer than stock

Coilovers
These are some of the best suspension systems available. Coilovers refer to the front shocks only. Most are sold in kits with rear shocks/coils that are matched to the fronts. These are best suited for more hardcore off-road use, but they are also excellent on road. The front coilovers are adjustable for lift, typically up to 3”-3.5” lift. This is a huge benefit of coilovers, you can adjust for added weight. In addition, unlike ordinary shocks, most can be rebuilt in case of failure, and also revalved to dial in the ride.
Icon
• Offer a variety of kits to suit your needs
Overland Warehouse
• Kits are designed specifically for the 4runner, unlike other kits which are universal to this platform
• Offer both a 2.0 kit for stock weight vehicles and a 2.5 kit for those with added weight.
• Extended travel kits include an extension bracket for the rear brake lines, info on this in a moment.
Toytec
• Their coilovers are more of a cross between standard shocks and coilovers
• They use Bilstein 5100’s and an added coilover conversion kit.
• Cheaper than other coilover options
• More difficult to adjust once on the vehicle
• Shocks are not rebuildable/revalvable


**************************Misc Lift Info**************************

As you get closer to 3" lift, you can begin to run into other issues. Three things come to mind.
First, at 3" and higher, you begin running out of caster adjustment on the stock upper control arms (UCA's). Aftermarket UCAs may be required to get the front end alignment back into spec. Here's a great thread discussing various options and benefits of the different UCA's offered.
Second, it's fairly common for there to be contact between the swaybar and front coils. To resolve this, you need to install swaybar relocates. There's no definite way to know you'll need these. My suggestion is that if you're going for 3"+ of lift, you probably should go ahead and invest in the relocates.
A third thing is a diff drop, which is intended to reduce the angle on the CV's. It's the general opinion that these do very little to improve the angle and are not worth installing.

Info courtesy of Mark at OW
**********************
Just as a notice of warning for many who install lift kits on 4th and 5th Gens...

Please be aware that when lifting your rig in the back you can stretch the rear brake line if you are not careful.

Check by raising your truck off the ground and allowing full droop. Check your brake line where it changes from hard line to rubber line (look for it roughly the left side of the rear axle as it comes down from the body).

Now you also need to confirm that your are at full flex! Get someone to stand on the left tire to make sure.

At Overland Warehouse we include a brakeline extension bracket with our extended travel kits to alleviate this problem. You can also change to longer braided lines but then, beyond the cost of the lines, you also have to drain and bleed the brake system.
**********************

**************************Suspension Lift Installation**************************

I used Galactic_04's write-up as a basis for installing my OME front coils. I found it very helpful. If you loosen the eccentric bolts, you've got tons of room for installing the shock, definitely a much easier method. Another benefit of this method is that you do not have to separate the ball joint.
Other write-ups I've used/referenced (these are more targeted towards spacers, but process is very similar for lift coils):
Toytec Lift Install
JA's Lift Install
Daystar Lift Install
Daystar Install By Bulldog
Overland Warehouse Installation Guides
OME Install-no spring compressor method

UCA Installation
Install write-up for Donahoe (ICON) UCA's - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
Front Upper Control Arm Installation - Toyota 120 Platforms Forum

**************************Vendor Links**************************

Good sources for lift parts in addition to the manufacturer sites listed above:
4wheelparts
Slee Off Road
Wheelers Off Road

**************************Suspension vs Body Lifts**************************

Everything mentioned above would be considered a suspension lift. Suspension lifts are preferred over body lifts. Suspension lifts are generally considered "safer" and allow you to get a larger amount of lift than with a body lift. Suspension lifts lift the whole vehicle off the ground. Body lifts only lift the body off the frame, which does not provide any additional under belly clearance. Suspension lifts (spacer lifts excluded) give you greater flex off road, which is a huge benefit. Body lifts are best used when you are already running the max amount of suspension lift you can (3"-3.5" is considered the max). Body lifts will allow you to fit a slightly larger tire.

**************************Body Lifts**************************

By far the most common body lift is 4crawler. These can be purchased in heights up to 1.5". Toytec also offers a 1" body lift.
Up to 1", all you need are the lift blocks. At 1", you'll need the radiator drop brackets and the steering extension is recommended but not required. Anything over 1" requires both the radiator drop brackets and the steering extension. If you're interested in a body lift, here's a great thread detailing the installation process.

**************************Tire Size/Fitment**************************

Thanks to gaterose for providing the following information.
What does it take to fit x tire with x lift?
Front/Rear Lift Tire Size
Stock -
265/65R17
265/70R17* (except BFG A/T)

1/0
265/70R17* (31.6x10.4)
255/75R17 (32 x 10)

2/1
265/70R17
255/75R17

3/2
275/70R17 (32.2 x 10.8)
285/70R17† (32.6 x 11.2)
255/80R17* (33 x 10)

3/2 + 1-1.5" Body Lift
255/85R17† (34 x 10)
285/70R17†
305/65R17† (32.6 x 12)

* requires removal of mud flaps and probably minor trimming
† requires trimming and may require body mount chop (click here for details on body mount chop), upper control arms, and/or increased backspacing.

Add 5 to the middle number for 16" wheels, subtract 5 for 18" wheels (265/75R16=265/70R17=265/65R18)

The above assumes you're using stock wheels and no wheel spacers. Aftermarket wheels or wheel spacers will increase rubbing, more trimming will need to be done in order to fit the listed size.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I was wondering what to do here. I have a KYB suspension at the moment and i want to lift it. do i change them? Do i need new springs/coilovers? will spacers (suspension) do the job? i find it a little bouncy at the moment and would appreciate a smoother ride... any suggestions?

How many miles on the kyb shocks? Has it always felt bouncy? I think bilstein shocks and fj coils would be a nice upgrade and should smoothen things out. Your cheapest option is finding a used set of FJ Cruiser shocks and coils (from a 2007-2009 4x4). you do not want the base model shocks, look for a set from either a TRD or Trail Teams edition FJ, these will be OEM Bilstein shocks. Second option is Bilstein 5100s combined with FJ coils (any year 2007-2012 coils will work).

If you off road much, you may want to consider additional options, but either of those would do well in most situations.

 

[trailrazer]

This has been a fantastic forum. I have read through a lot of posts to reach an economical and performance enhancing decision. I am currently driving a 2003 SR5 V6 4wd Runner with 100k. No rear bags and it does not appear to have xreas.

I want some lift for looks and height for visibility. It's also more comfortable getting in at 6 foot. I will be towing a 3400 pound travel trailer at times that weighs into my decision. I also want less body roll and don't mind if its a little firmer. Not much off road driving other than fire roads and some possible 2 track.

I am definitely installing 5100's all around. I was considering front and rear OME coils at 2" in the rear (standard to medium) and the 2" coils up front to match. For money savings, will a spacer instead of coils up front reduce body roll with the 5100's? Keep in mind I would like close to 3" up front and 2" in the rear. If I wasn't towing, I would stick with 5100's and spacers.

For tires I am looking at 275/70-17 Destination AT's for as little bigger size without significant loss in mpg's. They will also be significantly quieter than Toyo MT's I am used to running. I did find a dealer that has 285/70-17 Destination's for $800 installed that is tempting. Spidertraxx spacers are also going on as well.

Any feedback will be great. Towing, appearance, handling, and spending money wisely would be appreciated.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

I really think it's hard to beat the 5100/FJ coils for a vehicle that only sees minor off road. Combine that with air bags in the rear to support the load when towing and you'll have a great setup. You can go the OME route, but IMO it's a little stiff for daily driving (that's just my opinion, others will say differently). With the 5100/FJ combo plus a 1.5" Daystar rear spacer, you could have the lift you're looking for.

If you choose to go the OME route, you can do 884's in the front with a top plate spacer for a full 3" lift. For the rear, you have a couple of options. OME 895's are 45% stiffer than stock, which is very stiff when you're unloaded. Most use ToyTec Superflex rear coils, they are 10% stiffer than stock. This can carry some extra weight without sagging and not be harsh when not loaded. There are a few options in between, I know All Pro makes coils that are approx 20% stiffer than stock.

Hard to go wrong either way. I loved the way the FJ coils rode over bumps, but with the 5100/FJ combo I felt there was a little too much body roll and nose dive. I loved the way the 5100's/OME handled turns and braking, but they were a little stiff over bumps. The OW 2.0 kit that I just switched to seems to be the best of both, very happy with it.

Tire size will be your call (great tire choice btw, love those tires). I love the way the 285's look on the 4runner with a 3" lift. 275's will require less trimming to fit, will most likely be cheaper, and less impact on gas mileage (although I think it's gonna be minor between the two sizes you're comparing).

275/70/17 is a C rated tire. This is the best fit IMO.
285/70/17 is either a P or E rated tire. I'd prefer something better than a P for your towing and off road, but the E may be a little stiff.

It's really a personal choice on tire size, but 275/70/17 in that tire would most likely be my choice.

 

[saincain78]

Newbee with some questions, please help!!!

Hey 4runner community,

I have a stock 2003 SR5 2WD V6 and would like to purchase the Bilstein 5100 adjustables for the front and the Bilstein stock replacment for the rear. My questions are can I use the stock springs for the front and rear when I install the Bilstein's? I have read alot of members using spacers, is this for the rear springs? Is it mandatory to use spacers? If I set the front shocks at the highest setting will it raise the front end higher than the rear while using the stock springs? Will I notice a difference while driving if I still use the stock springs? later down the road I would like to upgrade the springs. Sorry to be such a newb but if anyone can reply with some insight I would be really grateful. I am on a tight budget as a single parent but really want to take my 4runner to the next level...

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Hey 4runner community,

I have a stock 2003 SR5 2WD V6 and would like to purchase the Bilstein 5100 adjustables for the front and the Bilstein stock replacment for the rear. My questions are can I use the stock springs for the front and rear when I install the Bilstein's? I have read alot of members using spacers, is this for the rear springs? Is it mandatory to use spacers? If I set the front shocks at the highest setting will it raise the front end higher than the rear while using the stock springs? Will I notice a difference while driving if I still use the stock springs? later down the road I would like to upgrade the springs. Sorry to be such a newb but if anyone can reply with some insight I would be really grateful. I am on a tight budget as a single parent but really want to take my 4runner to the next level...

I recommend 5100s all around, they will work fine in the rear, probably better as they are designed to match the front.

5100s are designed to work with stock coils. They will provide a nice upgrade even with stock coils. The 5100 front shocks have four settings for lift (0", .85", 1.75", & 2.5"]. If you leave the rear stock, most use one of the two middle settings. This levels it out and does well. If you want to lift the rear, use the top setting on the front shocks for 2.5" lift and add a spacer to the rear. You can get a Daystar 1.5" rear spacer for $40, good option on a budget. It's available at Tonneau Covers, Lift Kits, Winches, Leveling Kits, Tires, Wheels & Tonneau Cover Truck Parts by 4 Wheel Parts (and other places as well). Only the front shocks are adjustable to provide lift, the rears are not. This is why a rear spacer is recommended if you're using the highest setting on the front.

Hope this answers your questions.

 

[saincain78]

Thanks ASR!!! When I am ready to install new springs will I remove the spacers in the rear? I also read that going above a certain hight in the rear I mignt need to get longer break lines, is that true?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Thanks ASR!!! When I am ready to install new springs will I remove the spacers in the rear? I also read that going above a certain hight in the rear I mignt need to get longer break lines, is that true?

That all depends on the new coils. If you get lift coils like OME or ToyTec Superflex, you won't need the spacers. With something like the FJ coil swap, you'd probably want to keep them.

Extended brake lines won't be required with under 2" lift in the rear. 2"-3" they are probably optional. Over 3" lift in the rear I would say longer brake lines are required.

 

[saincain78]

Thanks alot, you are a total pro!!!

 

[saincain78]

Parts shipped!

YES!!! My Bilsteins 5100 "all 4 with front adjust", 1.5" rear spring spacers, and new hardware shipped today. Its on now! Will take some before and after pics to post.

 

[trailrazer]

Thanks for the great response ASR. I am leaning towards the OME 884's with top plate, super flex rear and 5100's. If I end up finding some FJ coils for a drop dead price, then I might consider that route second on my list. I'd rather do it the way I'd prefer the first time because once I install it, something else will come up and it won't happen. The beginning of June will be D-day.

 

[luvmyt4r]

Hey there. This is an AMAZING thread! I unfortunately cannot find what I am looking for. I JUST ordered my ToyTech coilovers (thanks to advice from here) and I am wondering about care for them. I live in ND and my parents live in northern MN where in the winter they think that salt is the ONLY thing to put on the roads. What are the Bilsteins made out of? Aluminium or Stainless? My brother had a set of Bilsteins many years ago and after the first winter we could not adjust them because of the corosion. Is there anything I can put on them to help prevent this other than not going to see my parents in the winter. lol. I am HOPING the kit gets here before the weekend because I am like a little kid the night before Christmas. lol.

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

Trailrazer, that should be a good setup, let me know how it turns out.

Luvmyt4r,
I'm not 100% certain on the material, don't wanna throw out incorrect advice. I'll find out and get back to you. As far as rust/corrosion prevention, I don't have much info there. Here in the south we don't have to deal with that, so not something I've looked into. I know some companies such as Icon offer a special coating on their kits to help prevent this, that may be an option for you.

 

[luvmyt4r]

I didnt ask when I ordered...So that is my fault. Hmmmm....Not sure what to put on them. I wonder about spraying some kind of clearcoat paint. Or something like that?

 

[aha2988]

awesome thread!! i will say a body lift has one other benefit when added to a suspension lift.

with the suspension lift you've gained ground clearance below your rocker panels aswell, however if you add rock slidders you then loose the thickness of the slidders in ground clearance of the rocker panels. a body lift is a great way to add sliders and not loose ground clearance gained by the suspension lift.

also after a body lift is added it allows for the gas tank straps to be modified allowing you to raise the belly of the gas take (maybe an inch yes i know) but every inch counts!! lol

that plus previously mentioned in this thread, tire size increase ability would be my justifications of body lifts. But yes if that were to be your only lift aplied it would have little to no benefit other than you'd be ready for more modification once suspension lifts were added

 

[saincain78]

Great Day!

My parts arrived today! Install tomorrow. Yea, I am excited!

 

[saincain78]

ASR Question

ASR, today I installed the 5100's all around and set the front to the highest setting with the 1.5 inch spacer on the back springs. The front is higher than the back, 1.5 inches higher.. Do you have any input why this has happened...Do I need to move the front shocks down one detent??? Do you think the stock springs could have caused this?

 

[ARK_SWAMP_RIDER]

ASR, today I installed the 5100's all around and set the front to the highest setting with the 1.5 inch spacer on the back springs. The front is higher than the back, 1.5 inches higher.. Do you have any input why this has happened...Do I need to move the front shocks down one detent??? Do you think the stock springs could have caused this?

How many miles have you driven since the install? The front typically sits quite a bit higher when you first let it down, but after driving a few miles settles down. Do you have measurements to compare to stock to see how much lift you gained? Do you have a v6 or v8, 2wd or 4wd?

It sounds like something isn't right with the install. Are you sure you put the lower spring seat on correctly? I have seen where one guy put it on upside down and it provided way too much lift. These pics show correct placement:

These are on the lowest setting.